There's been a flurry of reports circulating the internet about the so called "Monsanto Protection Act," so this is a good time to weigh in with our thoughts on GMOs in general and to hopefully clear up some confusion in the process. As we've learned first hand from Lisa and Vani's recent intense media coverage around the Kraft petition, a lot can get lost in the telephone game (for example Vani is NOT a mom, referenced food dyes are not banned in the UK, etc.), and so it is always advisable to do your own digging when you read a story. Over time you'll determine trusted sources, but it's still a good idea to cross-check the facts. Today's post is by no means meant to be the ultimate resource on GMOs chock full of references and counterpoints, but I do want to introduce the topic and provide an opinion based on my experience, reading, and immersion in the food world. Spoiler alert...there's an interesting link between Kraft and the Monsanto Protection Act. From the nonGMOproject.org website: GMOs, or “genetically modified organisms,” are plants or animals created through the gene splicing techniques of biotechnology (also called genetic engineering, or GE). This experimental technology merges DNA from different species, creating unstable combinations of plant, animal, bacterial and viral genes that cannot occur in nature or in traditional crossbreeding. Genetic modification is different than selective breeding. This is explained in further detail on page 9-10 of this GMO Myths and Truths document. Here is a list of the most common GMO crops in the US from the Institute for Responsible Technology:

A story of finding seeds and growing alkanet. Alkanna tinctoria roots are common and used to naturally tint soap, food but the plant remains a mystery

Brassy Tones • Overly Dark Hair • Going Back to Your Old Color • Patchiness • Dull, Washed out Blonde • More ...

To celebrate the month of March, and the anticipation of Spring, I wanted to share a fun beginner tutorial on floral bundle dyeing you can do in the comforts of your home! In my previous post, I gave some insight as to how to gather and collect flowers and foliage and store them for future dye projects. Let’s use some of those goods as we create a floral dyed kerchief. For this tutorial, you will need: A piece of cotton cloth Soy milk Twine Vinegar Flower petals (I’m using marigolds, hollyhock and delphinium) but you can use whatever you like! A pot (do not use a pot you use for cooking!) A colander Creating colour on cloth naturally requires a lot of attention in the beginning stages. Preparing your fabric correctly is super important so that the dye will adhere to your fibre. Washing your fibre, known as scouring in the natural dye world, means to cleanse it deeply. You need to strip away any wax and oils fabric contains from all the processing it has been through. After the cleansing, you need to mordant your fabric to make it colourfast. Mordanting is an essential part of natural dyeing as it is what creates the bond between fibre and dye. Protein fibres and cellulose fibres work differently and require different methods. For our tutorial, we will work with a cotton kerchief that I have mordanted with soybean. This is a centuries-old method and works very well in assisting your cotton fabric in retaining and absorbing more dye than untreated cotton. A useful way of exploring this is by testing out a piece that has been treated, and one that hasn’t! You will surely see the difference in your results. Making your own soy mordant from the actual beans is fun and simple to do, but you can also buy soy milk (unsweetened and unflavoured), and it will work as well. In a bowl, mix one part soy milk and three parts water. Before immersing your piece of fabric in the bowl, soak it for twenty minutes in lukewarm water. Then, ring out the excess water and submerge it into your soy/water mixture. Stir it around, taking care that all parts of your fabric are absorbing the mixture. After twenty minutes or so, ring out the excess and hang it to dry. Repeat this method three more times. After you are done, you can work with your fabric right away, or let it cure for some time. The longer you allow your mordanted fibre cure, the better the results. Always remember. The natural dye process requires time and patience. Now we are ready to play with our flowers and create runny, painterly colour on cloth.You can use dried flowers, frozen, or fresh. I always prefer to enjoy my arrangements and garden blooms for as long as possible before using them for dyeing. 1. Take your blooms and create a pattern on your cloth. Take your time; be creative, mix different things. There are no limits to what you can use and how to lay it out. 2. You can also add things to your bundle such as little metal pieces, copper bits, lemon peel. These types of things alter and change your results and create unique patterns for your piece. Once you are happy with your design, carefully roll it up, fold it and bind it all together to create a lovely little bundle. 3. Once you have bundled up your piece, soak it in a bowl with a little bit of vinegar and water. 4. Now place it in a colander over a pot of boiling water and let your bundle soak up the steam. Let it sit there for around a half-hour to forty-five minutes. You will see the colour slowly start to release itself and bind to the fabric. 5. After 45 minutes. Can you see the colour and how much our bundle has changed? The unveiling. 6. After it dries, iron it out to set the print. Can you see how much the colours shifted as it dried? Can you notice the moodier tones where the metal pieces had been placed? Such a pleasant little surprise, isn’t it? I hope you get a chance to try this out and have some fun with it! If you would like to learn more about this lovely, artful process, join me at one of my workshops! *The workshops listed on my website are currently sold out, however if you would like me to add you to a wait-list for the next class, please send me an email and I will make sure to do that for you. Or, if you have a group of friends you would like to share the experience with, we can arrange a private class! Drop me a line and I would be happy to organize it. Have a wonderful month of March!

Hey! I hope you find this tutorial helpful in dyeing your very own Unicorn Farts! I will be editing this here and there as needed and adding helpful hints as I remember them. Please feel free to ask questions here, or over on my facebook page! I most likely will not be dyeing this colorway very often to sell anymore, so please feel free to dye up skeins to sell if you feel like you can produce sellable skeins! If you use my exact color recipes & colorway name to sell, I would appreciate if somewhere in your listing you give credit to Tomboyknits (i.e. "dyed using Tomboyknits' Unicorn Farts tutorial" or something) BUT: please don't use my shop name in the title of your listing. (I just don't want there to be confusion as to who has dyed the yarn & who is selling it. :D ) Thanks so much, and please enjoy! ♥ Supplies! WOOL yarn (will not work with cotton or acrylic) plastic wrap, the clingier the better wide flat tupperware with top rubber gloves wee wee pads (or something to protect your kitchen counter) measuring spoons (1/8 tsp & 1 tsp) vinegar OR citric acid (I buy my citric acid from here: http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3382162-AA.shtml?lnav=chemicals.html) dyes (food dyes, cake/icing dye, kool aid, or acid dyes) mason jars or plastic cups (at least 4) 6 squirt bottles are really handy and I strongly suggest them - (I buy my 8oz squirt bottles from here: http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3393-AA.shtml?lnav=tools.html) (OR you can try Michaels or Joanns in the cake decorating section) but you can also use a pouring measuring cup (although it's not as precise) a funnel is also handy if you're using squirt bottles paper towels microwave (if you don't have a microwave, you can use the oven instead. You can set the temp at around 200, lay out your yarn on a cookie sheet, and use aluminum foil instead plastic wrap. When you're done dyeing just wrap it all up and place in the oven for a few hours. I have had issues with the yarn getting burnt in a spot or two, but you may want to mess around with the temp/timing.) guar gum is optional but very helpful in getting those clean color breaks and keeping the red and purple sections from wicking into the white (I found mine at Whole Foods in the gluten-free section) blender, if you're using guar gum This tutorial uses food dyes and kool aid to achieve the end result. The colors used are: Red - 40 drops red from the McCormick assorted box Orange - 1 packet of orange Kool Aid Yellow - 2 packets of lemonade Kool Aid AND 3 drops yellow from the McCormick assorted box Green - 1 packet of lemon-lime Kool Aid Blue - 5 drops blue from the McCormick NEON box Purple - 4 drops purple from the McCormick NEON box Of course, you can also use regular acid dyes - just mix up your colors and go. Make sure you're using wool yarn, this won't work with cotton or acrylic. Open up your skein and get ready to tie it with some undyed yarn. A 60" circumference skein works nicely (which is what many skeins are), but if it's bigger or smaller it's probably fine, too. I like to add 3 ties to keep the sections I'm leaving undyed together. Two of them divide the skein in half and the other divides that half in half. The half with no ties is where the dyeing is going to happen. You don't need to do figure-eights, you can just tie around (not too tight, not too loose.) (Say hello to Soup the cat.) This is a figure eight, in case you're wondering. If you plan to dye the non-rainbow part of the skein a different color, then I would go ahead and tie figure eights like this. But if you're leaving it undyed, this is not necessary - just tie around. When dyeing wool yarn, you need acid for the dye to bond. I like to soak the yarn in the acid for about an hour before dyeing the colorway. You can use white vinegar (which or course smells like vinegar) OR citric acid (which is pleasantly unscented). Either one is fine - I use citric acid because I have it on hand. Kool Aid is acidic enough by itself, but I like to add to the soak as well. (Plus the colors that are only food dye need acid.) Fill up your sink with cool water. Add 1/4 cup vinegar for up to a pound of yarn OR 1 TBSP citric acid per pound of yarn and soak your yarn for at least an hour. You can even soak overnight if you like. Be sure to squeeze your yarn in the water to get all the air out. (Go ahead and lay out your wee wee pads before anything else!) Guar Gum is a thickener used in cooking - totally optional, but really helpful! I found it in the Gluten-Free section of Whole Foods, but it can also be found on Amazon. I have done plenty of batches of UF successfully without it, but find it really helps make the color breaks clean. You can skip this step and just use plain water to mix your dyes if you don't want to bother. Put 32 oz of warm water in the blender and add 1 teaspoon of guar gum. Blend on low for a minute or two, until the guar gum looks to be mostly dissolved. Pour 8 oz of your blended mixture ( or plain water if you skipped that step) into each of your mason jars. I use this mixture for the 4 middle colors (orange through blue), and a slightly thicker version for red and purple later. For ORANGE, add 5 dashes (a dash is 1/8 tsp) or approximately 1 packet of Orange Kool Aid to one of your jars, and stir well. If you have clumps, just let it sit for a bit and try stirring it again later. For YELLOW, add 15 dashes, which is approximately 2 packets of Lemonade Kool Aid, to one of the mixture jars. Then add 3 drops of McCormick yellow, and stir well. For GREEN, add 5 dashes or approximately 1 packet of Lemon Lime Kool Aid to one of your jars, and stir well. For BLUE, add 5 drops of McCormick's NEON blue to the last jar, and stir well. I also add a little bit of acid (either a dash of citric acid OR a small splash of vinegar), and stir again. Now transfer your dye mixtures to your squirt bottles and rinse out your jars. Now this is for the red and purple dye stock - we want these to be slightly thicker to help keep the edge colors from wicking. Put 16 oz of warm water in the blender and add 1 teaspoon of guar gum. I also add a little bit of acid (either a dash of citric acid OR a small splash of vinegar). Blend on low for a while, until the guar gum looks to be mostly dissolved. This will be a little frothier than the previous batch. For red, add 40 drops of McCormick red, and stir well. For purple, add 4 drops of McCormick NEON purple, and stir well. Just a little side note - I find purple to be one of the hardest colors to work with. Purple can "break" when heated, meaning the colors in it separate and "strike" at different times, and you end up with a bit of blue within it. This neon purple holds it together pretty well, which is why I use it. Another side note - Kool Aid grape is not a pretty purple, which is why I don't use that. Add the last two colors to their squirt bottles. Now you're ready! *** I strongly suggest testing the squirt action of your bottles on a piece of paper towel before you start. Sometimes bottles have a wonky squirt, or a leaky cap, or something that may cause the dye to go somewhere you don't want it to. At least you can be proceed with caution if you know of an issue. Lay out a long strip of plastic wrap, along with two smaller pieces to cover the curves. See all those paper towel sheets? I find it really handy to have a stack of paper towel pieces ready to grab - in case of some runaway dye, or if I need to wipe my hands in between colors. Remove your yarn from the acid soak and squeeze out all the excess water. Do not wring! Just squeeze until no water comes out. Lay out your yarn like so - the half with the ties goes into the plastic wrap. Go ahead and wrap this up now. In case some of the dye gets away from you, the undyed section will be protected. Also, lay out a long piece of plastic wrap under the section you're about to dye. You should have at least 20 inches of straight, flat yarn to paint. Lay out your yarn, and make sure that the strands are laid out straight. Spread the yarn out - not too thin, or the dye may run away on the plastic underneath, but not too thick, or the dye won't saturate through to the bottom. Find the center of the section you're going to dye, and then slightly LEFT of that, do a little karate chop on the yarn, pressing down hard. This karate chop makes a slight indentation on the yarn, which will give the first squirt of the dye some direction and keep it from running places you don't want it to go. Aim your dye into this. I always start with yellow - it is the lightest color and tends to get eaten up by the orange and green. So I make sure to make the yellow a wide strip of color in the beginning. Don't squirt too much at first, just one squirt along the karate chop dent you made. Then go ahead and press the dye gently into the yarn with your fingers. Don't do it too hard - you don't want it to splatter into the wrong area. You just want to squish it around enough to get the yarn saturated with some color. As you add more dye, press gently with the length of your hand, and then use your finger to gently press and roll the dye into the yarn to make that straight line. Make sure you're reaching the outer strands of yarn, too. You want to be adding enough dye to saturate all the yarn without oversaturating it. I press and roll with my left hand while squirting dye here and there with my right. Use the same "press and roll" technique on the other edge, to make a straight line. I usually aim for each strip of color to be around 2" - 2.5" - though I don't actually measure, I just try to make sure they all look to be the same. So let's do orange next. FIRST make sure to rinse your gloves off in between each color!! Then make your karate chop about a half inch or so to the left of the yellow edge. And then squirt some into the dent. If you happen to miss and get some onto the plastic wrap like I did here, BE SURE TO CLEAN THIS UP RIGHT AWAY. This can run into some of the white where you don't want it, and that's a bummer. Use the press and roll technique to gently push the orange dye to meet the edge of the yellow. Try not to push it too far into the yellow, but definitely cover all the white portions. If you do have a bit of dye get away from you, it's not the end of the world. The orange on this is just a strand or two on the skein, and also will be over-dyed with red. Now for green. Rinse your gloves!! Make your karate chop about a half inch or so to the right of the yellow edge. Like with the others, squirt your dye into the dent. Add a little more dye, press and roll from the center out to meet the other colors, etc. If you need to widen the edge of your strip of color like with this green, be sure to make your dent where you want the edge to go so that the dye doesn't get away from you. Go ahead and do your blue next using the same karate chop, squirt, press and roll technique. Now that your four middle colors are done, let's do the two edge colors last. It's important to do these two last because it gives them less time to wick. Make your karate chop dent, squirt your red dye into the dent, and use your very SLOW press and roll technique to first meet the edge of the orange, and then to make a clean, straight edge along the undyed area. Press and roll - be sure not to splash or splatter! Try to keep the edge here evenly saturated with dye so that it doesn't fade out too much into the undyed area. Do the same with your purple. Be careful with the edge where the purple meets the blue - all the other colors blend pretty well from one color to the next, but the blue and the purple don't mix very nicely. Try to get them to meet without mixing, and without leaving a gap in color. Now that your colors are done, take another piece of plastic wrap and lay it over the whole length of the rainbow. Now it's time to flip it over! Taking the two pieces of plastic wrap that are sandwiching your dye job (two hands, one on each end) flip it over completely. The dyed section should be stuck to the bottom piece of plastic wrap, and hopefully you don't have any dye running anywhere. (Imagine that my other hand is lifting by the purple edge instead of awkwardly trying to snap a photo.) Peel off the layer of plastic wrap that's now on the top and throw it away. Here's the underside of the yarn we just painted. See the light spots? We need to paint those. NO KARATE CHOPS HERE. Your yarn is pretty wet and saturated now and karate chops will just push dye into areas you don't want. Instead just go ahead and squirt a little bit of dye directly onto the light areas and gently press with your fingers to blend in the dye with the surrounding areas. Do this with each of the colors that need it, but make sure to rinse your gloves off in between each color. Now your paint job is done! Lift up one side of the plastic wrap underneath, and slowly fold the painted part of the skein over in half. Make sure the colors line up!! Now fold it in half again, and wrap the plastic wrap firmly around the rainbow area. DON'T SQUEEZE while you're doing this. Also make sure your gloves are clean (or off) while you're handling the now mostly-wrapped skein of yarn. Gently lift the rainbow part of the skein and lay it down in the tupperware. You can curve the yarn into the tupperware but try not to squeeze it or bend it too much. Try to get the dyed section to lay down flat so that gravity isn't causing any dye to run. Now cover the top of the tupperware with plastic wrap. Place the lid on top of this. Don't press it down, just set it there. Pile the rest of your skein on top of the lid. Cover the yarn on top loosely with plastic wrap. Place the whole thing into the microwave. Heat it on your regular setting for 2 minutes, then let it sit for 2 minutes, then heat it again for 2 minutes, then sit for 5 minutes, then heat it for 2 more minutes. Then let it sit for a while until it cools down a bit. It will be one hot steamy package, so use oven mitts when you take it out. Don't move the yarn itself until it has cooled down. The steam inside will be really hot when you open it to peek at it, so be careful. Once it's cooled down, open it up and remove all the plastic wrap. Once the yarn is completely cool, no longer hot anywhere on the skein, you can rinse it in cool water. It will be a bit slimy if you used guar gum, so be sure to rinse all that off. Then add some baby shampoo or mild dish soap, fill up the sink, and let it soak for a while. If you used vinegar as your acid, this will help get the smell out. Now rinse again until all the suds are gone. Squeeze out all the excess water, and hang it up to dry for a couple days. So, you may notice that you have lots of dye left over. If you want to save it for future use, just pop the dye bottles in the fridge until next time. Or, if you want to use it up or if you need a fun trim to go with with your Unicorn Farts, you can go ahead dye up some Unicorn Barf. I usually wind up 1.75 or 2oz of yarn at a circumference of about 40" or so. A few loose figure eight ties are helpful here so that you don't end up with white spots on your skein. Soak it in your vinegar along with your main skein. When you're ready to dye, use the same method to squirt and press into the yarn, press and roll to make your edges, and just make sure to saturate all the way through. Try your best to make your six color sections the same length. Then wrap and heat. Here you can see where I've used the Unicorn Barf on the straps, skirt edge, and heart pocket. This all works with acid dyes, too. Here's a pair of longies I made a few years ago. Here's another set I did using acid dyes and the above method. Except I accidently splashed some dye on the white part of the skein and ruined the dye job. :( So I decided to overdye the undyed part black, and call it "Vampire Farts" instead! It was helpful to thicken a bit of the black dye with guar gum and then hand-paint the two edges where the black meets the red and purple edges of the rainbow. I then dipped the larger part of the undyed skein in a bath of black dye to finish the job and I didn't have to worry about the black wicking into those two edge colors. Here's one more set I've made, using the above method. I took a skein of grey yarn (this was "Pearl" by Malabrigo) and used acid dyes to overdye it. This was "Polar Morn" by Malabrigo. I'm calling it "Zombie Farts". Zombie Farts knit up into doll sweaters. Princess Farts Pegasus Farts Tardis Farts, of course :)

5/35, 5/30 oder 5? Also welche? Wie kennen Sie sich in diesen Zahlen und Buchstaben auf Haarfarben aus? Wir beraten Sie gerne →

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Simple, salon quality, curly hair styles for amateurs stylists.

If you’re reading this, you most likely saw an “Easy DIY Natural Dye” project on Pinterest but are now surrounded by mushy dye pots and soggy fabric, mid-primal scream, and wondering what the hell went wrong. I got you, girl. Pour yourself a glass of bubbly and let’s unpack 15 Reasons Why Your DI

Confession: It's not someone's natural hair color. (submitted by Deborah)

Throwing an unforgettable slumber party requires thinking outside of the box (and pillow forts.) Here are 31 fun things to do at a sleepover.

Gingers really do have souls!

Bright, wild, and kaleidoscopic, Perfectly Wreckless is predominantly hot pink with bursts of blue, green, yellow, black, and cream, all in varying amounts. If you need more than one skein for your project, we will do our best to visually match them. For even results, you must alternate skeins. This colorway can be highly variable, so feel free to give us a call for a current description of what we have, or if you have any questions about the color. This colorway is a Babette: every skein and every batch is a bit different, but Babs has a method of recreating these artistic colorways. The photograph is an example of representative skeins from this colorway; the skein you receive may differ somewhat. Yowza You'll be saying "Yowza! These skeins are BIG!" when you see this yarn. Plied from soft superwash Merino wool, Yowza is excellent for sweaters, accessories, and baby items. Yowza has a smooth hand that works well for textured stitching. Size: 560 yd / 8 oz (512m / 227g) skeins Content: 100% superwash Merino wool Gauge: DK weight. 5.25-6 stitches per inch knit on US 5-7, 3-4 stitches per inch crocheted on US 7-I. Care Instructions: Machine wash gentle. This yarn should be dried flat for best results.

Have you been dreaming about Léa Seydoux's new, perfectly butter-caramel blond waves recently? Me too. That was the handiwork of French hair-color legend Christophe Robin, who's also the mastermind behind the highlights of Tilda Swinton, Coco Rocha, Ludivine Sagnier, and Catherine Deneuve. Assuming you want what they have (shiny, bright, rich hair that feels super lustrous and healthy), I asked Robin to share his ultimate summer hair DOs and DON'Ts. The goal (and his motto for hair color): to go from "mousy to glossy," stat. DO cover grays, dye hair slightly lighter, or try ombre color at home. But save extreme color changes (more than three shades lighter or darker) for the salon. DON'T use warm-hue dyes when coloring dark hair. Those shades tend to turn brassy, so stick with cool or ashy tones for a more realistic effect. DO choose a box hair color that is one to two shades lighter than you think you want to go. "In my experience, women always think their hair is darker than it actually is," explains Robin. DON'T try dramatic hair color changes in the summer. Wind, sun, salt, and chlorine make color fade fast, so stick to more natural, easy-to-maintain shades.

I work at Vain, one of Seattle's most beloved salons. I have always wanted to color someone's pit hair. I have actually done it once, but It was a late night with too much wine and without the proper tools available. I asked my co-worker Rain if she would be down to let me dye her pit hair blue to match her hair color and she agreed, heartily. (OR should I say pitily.) We both knew that we were jumping into uncharted territory, but we felt that Vain was just the place to pioneer some pit color. Here is how it went...

I wish someone had told me all the tips and tricks when it comes to applying eyeshadow. Everyone says blending is the key.. but HOW?!?

Halloween Orders Deadlines! USA Ready to Ship - Oct 25, 2023 USA Made to Order - Oct 20,2023 International Ready to Ship - Oct 10, 2023 International Made to Order - Oct 1, 2023 Made to Order! Ready to Ship - https://www.etsy.com/listing/1541780449/wasteland-costume-corset-skirt-gothic Listing is for ONLY the below 3 pieces Bra Skirt Arm Warmers Disclaimer - Outfit Does Smell Like Coffee Since It Is Coffee Dyed Answer the Below questions at checkout in section labeled "Note to Seller" 1. Bra & Cup Size? (If your size is not listed please contact) 2. Hips? Needed in inches and we take away 4 inches for the exposed part 3. Length of Skirt - 25’ - 40’ - Please add in "Note to seller" if you need different length 4. Bicep? Mannequin is 5 6’ Colors Available - All Off White - Pictured Black and Off White Black and Pink Black and Plum Purple Black and Lime Green Black and Blue Black and Red Contact if the colors you want are not listed. About 90% of this Whole outfit is stitched by HAND Materials used on Bra - Coffee Dyed Rayon Materials used on Skirt - Coffee and tea Dyed Creepy Cloth - Coffee Dyed Rayon - Coffee and tea Dyed Nylon - Small Corset with silver eyes Outfit comes un hemmed and beyond rough edges. Long back and shorter front If you wish to have the whole bottom hemmed there will be an extra charge of $35.00 - Contact before you purchase for this charge to be added This has some weight to it because of all the fabric used. DO NOT WASH WITH ANYTHING ELSE DO NOT MACHINE WASH This will wreck the whole outfit Outfit does smell like coffee but will come out with time or air out Hand wash in color water Line dry Will pro long the life of the whole outfit If you have ANY questions, we are here to help Made and copyright by Patched Jester Creations 2021 Model - Bailey at Wasteland Weekend 2018 Photography, MUA & Outfit - Patched Jester DISCLAIMER: Every dye varies. While we work hard to create consistencies please know that every dye is unique. Due to the range of variances we DO NOT offer exchanges or refunds on dye characteristics alone. If no sizing information is given at the time of purchase, which is asked, and you want to cancel at a later time, there will be a 40% of the purchase price deducted from your refund due to fabric being purchased on our end for your order. This also applies to all made to orders since we have the purchase the fabric.

I’m an angry dead woman who walks around pouring life into everyone.

Looking for hair dye colors and fresh hair color ideas for a new season? With the changing of the seasons, you'll probably want to change your hair color, too. Here are some great hair colors that will inspire you.

Some Announcements: Free Toffee! Ron, the magical man at English Toffee Anytime, emailed me and graciously offered to "sweeten the deal" to help me get votes for my Chili Cacao Mayan Cupcakes--I thought about it and wasn't sure if I should offer bribery to help get my recipe published....then, I got over it and realized I'm totally OK with bribery--in fact I use it daily on my kids. Check my sidebar for details and if you want to vote, leave a comment here or drop me an email saying you did it. You get one entry per vote and you can vote once a day until March 2. We'll randomly pick a winner March 3 to get a full pound box of milk, dark, or white chocolate toffee. Don't forget you have until Monday to leave a comment here and win the Cooking with All Things Trader Joe's Cookbook! It's awesome, I am so excited for one of you to have a copy. Now, for today's topic....what to do with Kool-Aid? I grew up (like most of us) on Kool-Aid---however, I don't usually give it to my kids because we already eat enough sugar. There have been several packets of it sitting in my cupboard for quite awhile so I figured we need to get some creative uses for them. Here's what I found so far, I'd love to hear your ideas. Today we'll be making lip gloss, ooh-la-la! 1. Make Easy Flavored Kool-Aid Frosting Stir a package of Kool-Aid into a can of vanilla frosting. 2. Frosting for a Jello Cake Fold in a pack of Kool-Aid into a container of thawed whipped topping. If the frosting tastes a little too sour, add in a little sweetener to taste. 3. Make Kool-Aid Lip Gloss To make a fruity lip gloss put a small amount of petroleum jelly into a microwave-safe bowl. Stir some Kool-Aid in, enough to make it the color you desire. Add a little sugar, then, place the bowl in a microwave oven for about five or six seconds, just enough to soften it. 4. Make Sand Art With Kool-Aid Draw pictures on paper, spread a thin layer of Elmer’s glue over one part of the picture. It's better to start at the top of the picture and work down. Sprinkle Kool-Aid over the glue and press it down gently. Shake off the excess powder off, and go on to the next color. 5. Temporarily Dye Your Hair With Kool-Aid In a glass bowl mix a packet of Kool-Aid with a teaspoon of corn starch and just enough water to make a paste. Apply the paste to clean, dry hair and let set for five minutes, rinse the paste out. 6. Make Spooky Party Decorations Just place some dry ice- don't touch it with your hands!- into a glass, and pour a packet of any flavor Kool-Aid into it. Kids will watch with fascination as the dry ice and Kool-Aid bubbles and mists. 7. Make Kool-Aid Clay for the Kids Mix together 1 cup of flour, a 1/4 cup of salt, 2 tablespoons cream of tartar and a pack of Kool-Aid in a pan. Stir in 1 cup of water and 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. Heat over medium heat stirring until the mixture thickens, remove from heat and let it cool. Knead the Kool-Aid clay until smooth. Store in airtight container in the refrigerator until use. 8. Remove Chlorine From Your Hair Use Lemonade flavored Kool-Aid. Pour a little Kool-Aid in your hand, then add shampoo and lather up. Let the Kool-Aid/shampoo set on your hair for fifteen minutes before you rinse it and then shampoo out well. (and we drink this??) 9. Kool-Aid Water Colors Pour Kool-Aid into ice cube tray, one compartment per color. Stir 1 tablespoon of water into each compartment; stir until the powders are completely dissolved. 10. Tie Dye with Kool-Aid You can dye any cotton item such as tee shirts, socks, bed sheets, towels, as long as it is cotton. The article you want to tie dye must be clean and dry. Pour each color package of Kool-Aid into an individual glass bowl. Stir an ¼ cup of white vinegar into each bowl; make sure the powders dissolve completely. Gather the fabric up in several places and secure with several rubber bands. Dip each bunch into a bowl of Kool-Aid. Leave the rubber bands in place and set aside to dry. Once dry, remove the rubber bands and spread it out so it can completely dry. Put it in the clothes dryer by itself and dry on high for 15 minutes to set the colors in. 11. Use Kool-Aid to Check for Toilet Tank Leaks (this is funny to me) Lift the lid off the toilet tank and pour Kool-Aid into the tank. The darker colors work the best. Don't flush the toilet! Just watch the toilet bowl, if you see the Kool-Aid float through from the tank, then you have a leak. The test can take fro 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the leak. 12. Removing Rust Stains Remove rust stains on your driveway by mixing unsweetened lemon Kool-Aid with just a little water and scrub. (see #8) 13. Cleaning the Inside of your Dishwasher Dump a packet of unsweetened lemon Kool-Aid into the soap dispenser, run the wash cycle. Removes stains and hard water deposits. 14. Dyes for Easter Eggs Mix a packet of Kool-Aid in a cup with 2 tablespoons of vinegar and ½ cup of water 15. Kool-Aid Stands Send the kids out to sell and play--they can sugar up other people's kids.:) 16. Decorating Cookies Use in place of colored sugars, just sprinkle a little across the top 17. Science Project with Plants Place a stalk of celery in water with Kool-Aid in it to demonstrate how the Kool-Aid is drawn up into the stalk with the water. 18. Coloring Flowers Place carnations, daisies or any white flower in water with Kool-Aid in it and watch the flowers turn colors. 19. Demonstrate a Non-Newtonian Substance Mix equal parts cornstarch and water that has been colored with a pack of Kool-aid. Mix with fingers and observe that this substance fluctuates between solid and liquid. 20. Shower Prank (look out, Gourmet Dad!) This is a simple prank. All you have to do remove the shower head from your shower and pour in the kool-aid packet into the shower head. NOTE: Make sure you are not the next one to take a shower.:) 21. From Erika: For stampers out there, you can put koolaid into embossing powder and make scratch and sniff images! As a side note: A dab of toothpaste on a damp paper towel cleans up stubborn Kool-Aid stains off both skin and countertops. Another strange and a little scary side note from Jim: I work as an engineer on US flagmerchant ships. We use kool-aid mixed into the control water system of theauto-shooting fuel purification centrifuges. It is a cheap - excellent -mild acid and helps to keep scale from forming in the solenoid valves andcontrol orifices. The consensus is that Grape works best.

Aka Instant Wardrobe Transformer.

Brand: Prairie Fire Candles Features: SOURCING MATTERS: Direct from Flint Hills native tallgrass pastures to you. We hand triple render every batch right on our naturally grown farm. RICH FULL BODY NATURAL MOISTURIZER: Grass-fed beef leaf tallow is rich in minerals & full of vitamins A ,D, E, K & B12. It is full of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA). CLA is found in the highest concentrations in 100% grass-fed tallow. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY: One of the things people are most surprised about is how just a little bit goes a long way. It absorbs quickly and won’t sit on the surface of your skin like some lotions do. CHEMICAL FREE: 100% natural, there are no chemicals or dyes used in our process. Who wants those on our skin, our body’s largest organ? FULL OF HEALTHY ACIDS: Grass-fed beef tallow is rich in omega 9 fatty acid, known as oleic acid which helps the other nutrients penetrate deeply into the skin. It contains palmitic acid, stearic acid, & palmitoleic acid (omega 7). Part Number: 697937534564 Details: Description Beef Tallow Balm Direct From Kansas Native Grass Pastures to You Beef tallow is a traditional natural moisturizer that has been used for millennia. We triple render our tallow by hand in small batches. The nutrients and cell structure of tallow are similar to our skin’s cell structure and contains the nutrients that our skin needs. Tallow balm is perfect for naturally soothing and moisturizing skin. Grass-fed beef leaf tallow is rich in minerals & full of vitamins A ,D, E, K & B12. It has natural antimicrobial & antibacterial properties. It is full of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA). CLA is found in the highest concentrations in 100% grass-fed tallow. Grass-fed beef tallow is rich in omega 9 fatty acid, known as oleic acid which helps the other nutrients penetrate deeply into the skin. It contains palmitic acid, stearic acid, & palmitoleic acid. Fragrance Free Ingredients: 100% Grass-fed Beef Tallow, Organic First Cold Pressed Olive Oil (UDSA Certified). Essential Oil Scented Ingredients:100% Grass-fed Beef Tallow, Organic First Cold Pressed Olive Oil (UDSA Certified). Organic Therapeutic Grade Essential Oil (USDA Certified). The Important Difference Between Fragrance Free and Unscented: Fragrance Free means there is no fragrance added to make the product smell a certain way, or to mask the scent of ingredients present. Unscented means that the product may contain chemicals or masking agents that neutralize or mask the odors of other ingredients. Our Fragrance-free products contain no fragrances or chemical additives of any kind. This is the reason so many people turn to us for our fragrance free tallow and soaps. Feel free to contact us with any questions! That’s it. Simple, organic & natural ingredients, that you know. Our Tallow Balm is produc EAN: 0697937534564

It's no secret that I'm not a fan of artificial dyes in food. The question is this: Is everyone else aware of these concerns and do they share this opinion?

today is one of those days on which i really really love my day job doing what makes me happy even if it does give me cracked hands and appalling fingernails the thing about my day job is that it funds the indulgence of exhibiting and to a certain extent my teaching travel does not come cheaply and workshop fees do not always cover the spaces in between engagements but [despite bringing me into disfavour in some quarters] i love to wander being a wanderbear at heart i had such plans to take a sabbatical but teaching is fun and so is wandering and wondering and so is patience with bundles taking time to open is rewarded with slow magic which leads me to think that while i really love teaching four or five day retreat classes like 'being (t)here' perhaps it is also time to offer some one-day workshops because not everyone has the time to take the time and as my friend John Parkes so beautifully writes "strange that time is more uncertain than water" + so i am considering offering a retreat that would begin in the early afternoon which would mean that the dyeing has the benefit of a restful night and we can share a leisurely evening meal which i will very happily prepare also the cocktail hour can be appropriately acknowledged without having to rush back to work and then next morning not too early allowing for a lovely walk after breakfast [and time for yoga] we would gather again to open the bundles and wonder at their beauty + the benefits of this structure would be many: less rush to get to an early-start class one night of retreat away from home in the company of like-minded souls not having to forage for supper in a strange place and going home with something beautiful to remember it all by + i can think of quite a few places i would like to take this... among them lovely Lopez Island, that magical wee house in Inverness (California) Fort Bragg (in the same state), anywhere in New England in the fall riverside in New Orleans, outback Australia, an Oregon beach Tayside in Scotland, on an island off Tasmania somewhere up near Cairns (Australia) as well as possibly Germany, Austria (in which case the workshop language will be German) and Japan (where the workshop language might have to be sign language) oh and i'd love to visit Ireland too and that is just the very tippity tip of the iceberg but i would also be happy to hear from any kindly souls who would like to host this kind of retreat because i think i feel another roadtrip coming on + did i mention that i have been working on a new cocktail too? allow me to present my 'ginger bear' ingredients : gin [preferably that nice one from San Francisco that has a bear on the label] ginger beer [in Australia, use Ginger Joe] some fresh ruby grapefruit juice and the zest of the fruit also freshly grated ginger root wild strawberries method : shake gin and ice and grapefruit juice strain into well chilled glasses over more ice dilute slightly with ginger beer garnish with grapefuit, freshly grated ginger and some slightly crushed wild strawberries

A collection of books and eBooks that will show you how to make your own dyes from plants. Printed books are available to order from Amazon. Click on each item listing for direct links to Amazon. Learn to dye fabric and yarn in Botanical Colour at your Fingertips. Follow the methods in Botanical Dyes on Wood for dyeing and painting wooden beads and other types of wood.

Vintage skills - are they all but lost? Not yet! But they are certainly sick and needing a revival. We can do this by mentoring and being mentored.

Large, soft pink dish towel with a women wrestling a crocodile and "DO ONE THING EVER  DAY THAT SCARES YOUR FAMILY". Super-absorbent. 100% unbleached cotton. 28" x 21".

Turning to ancient Sicily for inspiration, Dolce & Gabbana swept hair up into braided chignons and adorned crowns with flowers and Roman coins for their Spring 2014 show. Romance epitomized. I loved it so much, I…

Please carefully observe the following information regarding production, shipping and returns before finalising your order - thank you! Crafted for comfort, this lighter weight sweatshirt is perfect for relaxing. Once put on, it will be impossible to take off. .: Classic fit .: 50% Cotton; 50% Polyester (fibre content may vary for different colors) .: Medium fabric (8.0 oz/yd² (271.25 g/m²)) .: Sewn in label .: Runs true to size Production location: These are printed in various locations globally including Australia, USA, UK + Canada. At checkout, your item will be automatically routed to your nearest manufacturer (for cheapest and fastest shipping). Please note: each item is individually made-to-order. Orders are typically delivered within 2-3 weeks, but my vendor advises allowing up to a maximum of 30 business days for your items to be received. Please observe this timeframe when placing your order so expectations are managed as best possible. Shipping is international.   Returns or exchanges are not supported if a wrong size or colour has been ordered, if a customer simply doesn’t like the product, they change their mind, or do not supply a correct postal address.   There are sizing/measurement details on each apparel listing. Please reference these carefully to avoid receiving an item that doesn’t fit properly.    I am an independent artist/business using a print-on-demand service, and rely on the customer to observe these terms, make a considered item selection, and kindly commit to their order.   If your item arrives damaged, is of an unsatisfactory quality, or does not match the listing, please let me know so I can resolve the situation for you - your satisfaction is important to me.   Care Instructions: Please wash all garments inside-out, using only cold water and on a gentle spin.   Shipping prices are set by these manufacturers, and I cannot alter them. If your shipping total seems unreasonable, please reach out to me and I’ll advise the best way to potentially minimise it for you. If, at any point, you need assistance tracking your order, please let me know - I'm happy to help. Please rest assured if an item doesn't turn up within a reasonable timeframe, you’re entitled to a free replacement.   Can't find something you're looking for? Don't hesitate to contact me at [email protected] or use the chat window on my website.     S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL Length, cm 69 71 74 76 79 81 84 86 Width, cm 51 56 61 66 71.1 76 81 86 Sleeve length from CB, cm 83.8 86.4 88.9 91.4 94 96.5 99.1 101.6