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How to make spooky realistic paper mache hands for your ghost or other Halloweey monster prop; instructions, pics, and more.
Virkattu pussukka (koko n. 17x13cm) Tarvitset: Pirkanmaan Kotityön Pirkka-puuvillaa mustaa n. 35g, valkoista n. 30g, 15cm umpivetok...
I have several students on my caseload that have big time sensory needs. Both of our children, 6 & 3, are also a little funky when it comes to sensory input. Our 3-year-old son is a sensory seeker, which in layman's terms means he's "on the go" or "all boy" as my grandmother likes to say! One of the best strategies I've found to help kids be the "boss of their body" as I say in school a lot is to use what's called a hug vest. Somewhat similar to a weighted vest, the hug vest provides great proprioceptive (deep pressure) input to a child's body - kind of like a big, continuous bear hug! Proprioceptive input is very organizing for the brain and nervous system, which in turn helps children slow down their bodies and get them under control (hence "boss of your body"!). While the hug vest has been a great tool for me and for many of the children I see, it's not always the most economical choice. The cost for a hug vest can range anywhere from $45 to $100 and up! So I decided to go on a search to see what I could find to make my own. Originally I was thinking about using a lumbar support brace, but the stores in my rural town didn't really have what I was hoping for. But, I was able to find some great alternatives in the fitness section at WalMart! Let's see below: 1. This waist trimmer is made of neoprene material - perfect to simulate the piece of the hug vest that wraps around the trunk. For $5, that's a no-brainer! 2. The thigh slimmers, also made of neoprene - but slightly thinner, are a perfect simulation for the shoulder straps once cut down the middle. These come two for $10 in a box. Again, score! 3. Here's a terrible picture of the thigh slimmer cut length-wise to make the shoulder straps. 4. Here's our son Noah, the sensory seeker, modeling the final product. Notice that the straps are criss-crossed and then tucked under the first layer of the trunk wrap. No need to sew additional velcro to secure! Two points for that! 5. A view from the back. Again, terrible pic! And how did Noah like the final product? He was totally digging his "work vest" and was a new kid! No more climbing on tables, running around the house, throwing things for the heck of it. I think that's why I love sensory strategies - they truly help bring out the best in kids! Do you have any DIY sensory strategies that you find helpful? What are the tools you use the most for kids with sensory needs? Definitely shout the out in the comments. The more tricks we have in our sensory bags, the better we're able to help kids be the "boss of their bodies"!
Cute crochet jellyfish to make for a nursery, as a mobile for a sea-themed room, or just for fun for a friend! I promise, they don't sting!
Für die Ratgeber-Sendung vom 13. März 2009 auf DRS 1 wurde ich von der bezaubernden Myriam Zumbühl besucht. http://www.drs1.ch/www/de/dr...
my brother and i have been into board games since we were little — and we still go hard with it. we do game night with friends and play games every chance we get. so i decided for his birthday last…
You can always follow us to access the newest, most popular, and most accurate patterns. Here is Amigurumi Chameleon Crochet.
Interested in cool & simple thing to draw on your hand? Dive into fun and educational hand art with Artistro! We've prepared a lot of...
I really can't call this a Fabulous Free Pattern Friday piece as this was done by The Weekend Designer back in August of 2008. And since no pattern was published, it really doesn't fit in the Thrifty Thursday file either. But it's a great bag that is super easy to make, so in the event that you haven't seen this bag, I think you'll really enjoy making one for yourself. The suede bag was originally sold in the Sundance catalog, and like most things in the catalog, it was very nice, but fairly expensive. They came in a lovely selection of colors. I didn't have a piece of suede that was of a suitable weight, so I made mine out of a supple piece of leather. As long as I don't carry bricks in the bag, the lighter weight of leather should be fine. You can find all of the detailed instructions for this bag here. In the instructions for the bag, there is a graph for the pattern. Rather than make you count the tiny squares, I thought I would just draw it out for you. You can see that the bag is really nothing more than a few connected rectangles. The width across the bottom is 9" The side length is 11" The length of the handle is 9" And my apologies, I neglected to add that the width of the handle is 2 1/2" I did not draw out the bottom of the bag, but it is a simple 9" square. In order to achieve the curved edge on my handle, I used my curved ruler, but to be honest, you can easily draw the curve in by hand. In order to have the same exact curve on either side, I simply folded the pattern in half and then cut the handle out. If you have never sewn with leather or suede, I encourage you to give it a try. To be honest, I absolutely love sewing with leather. The leather comes as a skin and there will be imperfections. In the picture below you can see a hole in the lower left hand corner. So when choosing a skin, look carefully at the piece before purchasing it. If there was a large imperfection in the center, it would really limit the possibilities of what I could do with the skin. The instructions from the Weekend Designer says to cut the handle on the fold. This would not allow me to make the best use the leather, so I decided to just add a seam to the top of my handle. One of the nice things about leather is that is no grain, so you can turn your pieces in whatever way you like as you see below. I have marked my pieces on the wrong side of the leather. The bag has 4 sides, so since I didn't cut the handle on the fold, I will need to cut 4. I was able to get 3 sides out of 1 skin. Once all of the pieces have been cut, it's time to start sewing them together. Leather can be a little tricky especially since you can't pin it. The instructions say to use mounting tape. I have never used tape on any leather project. If you would like, you can use paper clips to hold the pieces together as you sew. You can also use a walking foot. But to be honest, I don't use either. Just take your time, be patient and practice a little with some of your scraps and I think you'll get the hang of sewing with leather. One thing to keep in mind is that you must use a leather needle. Please don't try to use a regular needle. The leather needle has a special point specifically for sewing leather. It makes all the difference in the world. Once you sew the seam, I used 1/4" seams on this bag, you can either glue down the seams with rubber cement, or you can top stitch them. I prefer to top stitch my seams. It must have been the angle at which I took the picture as my stitches look like they are on an angle, but they really aren't. Once the seams for the sides of the bag have been sewn, you'll then attach the bottom. Pay close attention to the fact that the seams of the bag do not match up to the corners of the bottom. The seams of the bag match the center of the bottom of the bag. It can be a little tricky, but you can top stitch the seams around the bottom of the bag. Just take your time. Since I didn't cut my handles on the fold, I simply over lapped the 2 ends and sewed them together. My finished bag. You can see that the bag is quite roomy. If you would like a hard bottom, you can always cut a piece of chip board, a thick cardboard, and place it in the bottom of the bag. I rather like the soft, easy feel of the bag. If you have never sewn with leather or suede, I urge you to give it a try. This is a great first time project. If you are a little concerned about spending the money for leather for a first time project, there are a lot of home dec fabrics that mimic leather, so that's a nice alternative. The Weekend Designer no longer writes at that address. You can find him at http://bagntell.wordpress.com/ The blog is full of wonderful information and projects. He also has a Craftsy class that teaches you how to work with leather and you can find it here.
Die Zeit, die Sie mit Ihren Kindern verbringen, macht Ihnen bestimmt immer viel Spaß und bereitet Ihnen große Freude. Heute geht es hier bei uns um einige
November is coming to an end, so it's time for a lil freebie to make this month a bit more exciting ^^. This time it's the Grace embroidery design that you might already be familiar with from my previous posts. I'm excited to share not only the pattern and stitches I used but also a bit of guidance and tips. Hopefully, it will make the stitching process easier for you! This design features 3 key elements: Rope-looking lines and outlines for the leaves Filling of the leaves Lettering Lines All of the lines are worked in stem stitch. You can see some additional tips on stem stitch in the following posts: Changing direction of stem stitch and the 6 faces of stem stitch. Long story short, as you are stem stitching, keep bringing your needle up to the left of your stitches. This will help you achieve the “rope” appearance of your stem stitch. Given that the direction of lines keeps changing throughout the whole pattern, be careful to not mix up the sides of where the needle should come up. If you are confused, rotate the hoop or embroidery frame so that the line faces upwards and make sure the needle comes up to the left of the line. When I stitched I worked the outline in portions. Let's say I completed 25% of outline first, then filled in some of the leaves, then worked the next 25% of outline and so forth. It helped me to keep a steady path. But, of course, it might be more convenient for you to work it in another way. Maybe you'd like to complete all of the outlines first and only then fill in the leaves. It's completely fine! Decide for yourself the order of working this embroidery pattern and work it in the way that makes you comfortable! I used two strands of floss for the box around the word GRACE, and one strand of floss for the rest of the lines. It made the plant motif look finer and helped the box to stand out. Leaves All of the leaves are filled with the fishbone stitch after the outline is already complete. The leaves are not always conveniently “straight” and with even edges. Their form changes here and there and sometimes they are not complete or cross with other leaves. So, yes, although the fishbone stitch itself is quite easy to pick up on, this design might still present a challenge. As a result, it will be an excellent practice of fishbone stitch for you ;) The order of working the leaves can be whatever you want. Just like with outlining I did it in portions, but it is possible to fill all the leaves with one shade of floss first, and then another and so on. I used two strands of floss when I embroidered the leaves in this pattern. Also, in some places leaves “fold”. These small areas are worked by satin stitch using one strand of floss in the needle. I didn't do any padding here. Just stitched the outline the same way as the areas of the plant motif and covered the “foldings” with parallel satin stitches. Lettering I used an easy and quick approach to lettering for this design. Take two strands of floss and outline a letter in back stitch first. Then “wrap” the letters in satin stitch. Because the letters are not that big and we use two strands of floss, there is no need for any padding. The letters look dimensional enough and pop out of the fabric surface. That's pretty much it. In case you have any questions left, you're always welcome to leave them in the comments below or send me a DM through the contact form :) DOWNLOAD THE FREE PATTERN HERE Have a nice stitching!
Upcycling im KInderzimmer: Nähe einen Teddy aus einem alten Pulli und mache deinem Kind damit ein ganz besonderes Geschenk. Mit Anleitung!
Wie macht man SnapPap-Label? Kann man die ganz normal plotten? Ist das eine spezielle Folie oder spezielles SnapPap? Alle Antworten im Blog!