There is no pattern to go with these lovely stitched constellations from Miniature Rhino, but it wouldn’t be too hard to find a star chart for the constellations you want to stitch and make t…

Identifier: smockingfancysti00butt Title: Smocking, fancy stitches, and cross stitch and darned net designs Year: 1895 (1890s) Authors: Butterick Publishing Co., Limited Subjects: Publisher: London, New York, The Butterick Pub. Co. Contributing Library: Smithsonian Libraries Digitizing Sponsor: Smithsonian Libraries View Book Page: Book Viewer About This Book: Catalog Entry View All Images: All Images From Book Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book. Text Appearing Before Image: A • • • e • A) • • • • • A • • • • • J^ ••••••••••••••••••< M FlGUKE NO. 8. • • • « • ♦ • • • • » •■ ft • • ** * * « » • • a • • • • • • * • • • • 0 • . • • • • ■ Figure No. 9. Figures Nos. 8 and 9.—English Method of Smocking. (For Descriptions of Figures Nob. 8 and 9 see English Method of Smocking.1^ DARNED-NET DESIGNS, ETC. paper will have to befully examine figure No.the arrows are to beinstance, and those con-lines are to be similarlymost space; catch togetherarrows, beginning at the right; insertsecurely, two or three over-and-overneath and out through theas illustrated at figure No.uer described to the endNow begin at the sec-gether the dots connecteding the needle underneathdot just below, as shownthe needle through as il-and make the tacking se-row is done in the sameed the work will not bethread should lie betweenside is illustrated at figure Text Appearing After Image: used as in tucking. Care-1; the dots indicated bycaught together in everyFigure No. 10. nected by the dotted caught. Begin at the top-the dots indicated by thethe needle as shown at figure No. 2, and make the fasteningstitches being usually sufficient; then pass the needle under-next arrow dot below,3. Continue in the man-of the line. ond space and catch to-by the broken lines, pass-and out through the linedat figure No. 4; then passlustrated at figure No. 5cure. Each succeedingway. Once properly start-tedious. The way thethe folds on the wrongNo. 7. Note About Images Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original work.

More cute crochet flower patterns. Find Tango Stitch Cross Stitch patterns at Creative Fabrica & Design Bundles.

Explore daisyeyes' 5066 photos on Flickr!

Moscow-based fabric artist and designer Katerina Marchenko stitches brightly colored threads into tulle to form elaborate embroidered images of animals, portraits, and anatomical studies. In their hoops, Marchenko’s pieces work as framed thread paintings. Bird and angel wings appear to have dimension and human eyes pop thanks to the artist’s attention to color harmony and shading. Marchenko skips the sketching phase and starts each new piece with contours before allowing improvisation and the process itself to dictate what the final design will look like. More

Wessex Stitchery Sampler I thought I would tell you about my header to my blog. It is Wessex Stitchery and my own design. It was in 2000 that the book "Wessex Stitchery" by Gay Eaton first came out and "New Stitches" magazine ran an article on it. I then went out and bought a copy. It must have been a couple of years later that I got the book out again and thought I would have ago at some of the patterns. I had got some of the new Anchor multicoloured threads and thought they would look nice in this sort of stitching, and I made a Wessex needle case. I was hooked. Wessex Needle Case I just had to do some of the different patterns and try out different colour contracts. So my Wessex Sampler was born (see above). When you get into how it all fits, it gets a bit addictive and here is what I stitched next. I thought I could make this into a large greetings card for a special occasion or into a frame. In the close up you can see that I used some metallic threads to give a bit of sparkle. Wessex Stitchery Wessex Stitchery - Close Up Some of you may have seen these pictures before and wonder where you have seen them. I sent in a letter to "New Stitches" magazine and my letter was published in March 2010, issue 203. A whole page and was also the Star Letter, which was a great surprise to me. A lovely parcel arrived later on with lots of stitching goodies inside. New Stitches Magazine In my letter I wrote about showing my Wessex stitchery at the Cross Stitch Guild, and members there who were also from the Embroiders' Guild, were very interested in the Wessex Stitchery as it was something new to them. I told them about the book by Gay Eaton, but unfortunately it is out of print. I was able to give a contact in New Zealand (as Gay Eaton is from New Zealand), Lee, who is also a keen embroider and has a wonderful blog spot "Notes from Under the Mountain" and has written and given patterns about Wessex Stitchery. There was a comment from the magazine saying: "As to the book 'Wessex Stitchery', I took a look on the internet and there seem to be two copies available - at enormous cost! It would seem that it has become a collector's item already. Let's hope there will be a re-print soon." After my letter had been printed in 'New Stitches' magazine, I received a letter in July 2010 from them saying "Your fame has spread far and wide and I have been in correspondence with a lady in New Zealand whose friend wants you to have her copy of 'Wessex Stitchery' by Gay Eaton! Please find enclosed a well-travelled copy of this rare book....". "It does both amaze and delight me that something such as embroidery can bring people together from opposite sides of the globe!" Well you can well imagine how amazed and grateful I felt in receiving this wonderful gift. I have now found that "Nordic Needle" do have copies of this wonderful book. Also they have a free chart "Wessex Sampler Bookmark" by Debi Feyh. I've also found a good review with pictures of what the book is like inside by Mary Corbet at Needle'nThread. 'Wessex' Name Badge Happy Stitching Everyone

Well, my friends, this week did not start the way I planned! By today, I should have been working in my new "digs" - the space I've rented to host all things Needle 'n Thread. Yesterday, I had planned to show you around a bit. But due to unforeseen technical difficulties, a tour and a chat will h

hi! here are the ideas i've come up with for the 70s Child Craft Kit. first of all, i used the stickers to decorate a cute journal set (i picked the journals up from the stationery section of Target, but...

Designed by Seth Friedman. I folded it from light grey Leather paper 40*40 cm. Diagrams from Pajarita 129. This is a beautiful design by Seth,and it was fun to fold and shape. This great paper and many more can be found in Nicolas Terry's origami shop(highly recommended): www.origami-shop.com/en/leather-papers-xsl-207_215_458_62...

When are ceramics considered textile art? When they've been embroidered, naturally!

Pdf cross stitch pattern - Curiosity (by Eugene de Blaas) Last photo shows how it looks like the finished piece These patterns are compatible with the Pattern Keeper app With your purchase you will receive: A Pdf pattern with black and white symbols A Pdf pattern with colored symbols A JPG picture of the painting A Symbol Key page in DMC floss code (last page of the pattern) A list with the number of skeins needed for your project Stitches: 215 x 450 Size (on 14 count Aida fabric): 15.36 x 32.14 inches 39.01 x 81.64 cm THESE ARE THE AVAILABLE SIZES ON 14 COUNT (If you want to know the size on another count please contact me): 96 x 200 stitches (6.86 x 14.29 inches / 17.42 x 36.29 cm) 119 x 250 stitches (8.50 x 17.86 inches / 21.59 x 45.36 cm) 143 x 300 stitches (10.21 x 21.43 inches / 25.94 x 54.43 cm) 167 x 350 stitches (11.93 x 25.00 inches / 30.30 x 63.50 cm) 191 x 400 stitches (13.64 x 28.57 inches / 34.65 x 72.57 cm) 215 x 450 stitches (15.36 x 32.14 inches / 39.01 x 81.64 cm) I will send your pattern by EMAIL within 24 hours after the payment Any comment, doubt or question do not hesitate to contact me Happy stitching!!! Thanks for your visit :)

Built by FMD Architects in Melbourne, Australia with date 2013. Images by Peter Bennetts. The site is a single storey terrace on a small 5m wide block in the inner city of Melbourne. The brief was to create ...

Let's continue learning how to stitch dimensional flowers! This time we will take a look at cast-on stitch and how to use it to work pretty floral motifs. First of all, cast-on stitch is quite similar to bullion knot both in way of working (well, just to some extent) and in ways of using. So, if you don't know yet what is a bullion knot and how to work it, I recommend checking the linked post. By the way, choosing a needle is one more reason why cast-on stitch and bullion knot can be considered distant cousins. As you know, bullion knot requires using Milliners needle, or a needle remotely similar (yes, there are suitable ones, I've used some) with a long thin shaft and narrow eye. The same goes for cast-on stitch. Although the loops aren't wrapped around the shaft as tightly as in the case with bullion knot, still, Milliners needle or its substitutes will serve greatly to make the process as smooth as possible. Today we will learn how to work cast-on stitch and see two ways of making flowers with its help. Cast-on stitch tutorial So, first, you need to make a stitch from one point to another, the distance between these points determining the length of the stitch. Then bring the needle up in the same hole from where it first emerged (or the one next to it if it is hard to bring the needle up without catching the thread with your needle's tip). Actually, in some tutorials, you will see the needle lying on the surface of the fabric, but I find it easier when it stands upright. Now the trickiest part of the whole process. Making a loop. For that, bring your finger under the working thread and then make a rolling motion, bringing the fingertip down. When you do that, the working thread stays wrapped around the finger, forming the loop. Unfortunately, I couldn't take the picture of the movement as one of the hands was occupied by the camera. But here is a nice youtube tutorial: video tutorial. Basically, this is the essential part of the process. If your cast-on stitch doesn't work, you might be doing something wrong in this step. So be careful! 1. The loop around your finger will look like that. Look closely how the thread crosses there. 2. Now slide the loop down the needle's shaft. 3. Pull the thread, so that the loop sits on the shaft comfortable and cozy. 4. Then add as many loops as you need on top of each other. The number of loops can be different, depending on the shape of the final stitch you want to achieve. Fortunately, if you work the stitch with the needle standing upright – you don't really need to count the loops. Just bend the needle down a little and compare if it fits the length of the stitch. The more loops you cast on the needle, the more arched will be the stitch. 5. When you decide that the number of loops is enough, pull the needle through them. 6. And anchor your stitch at the ending point of the stitch. Here is the final look of the cast-on stitch. A couple of tips: In step 4 you can notice the forming of a rib, which is also most likely to start spiraling. This is not very good. I mean, it is not really harmful for the stitch per se, but if you pull the thread before adjusting the rib in one straight line, you will have some trouble with fixing the stitch and giving it a proper look. So, remember: before pulling the needle through, adjust the loops so that the rib is one straight line. You might notice that sometimes the rib of the cast-on stitch is a little wavy, and sometimes it is absolutely even. The “wavy” thingy happens when some loops have a larger gap between each other than the other ones. I caught an example so look at the picture below. This gap makes results in the “wave”. If you don't want any waves you need to adjust every loop, making sure all of them sit evenly on the shaft. And if you like this wavy effect, you can allow yourself to be sloppier when casting the loops and not mind the difference in the gaps. The arrow shows you the gap between the stitches that results in a little wave in the final stitch. Also, note how the rib forms a straight line here. Now, if you cut the distance between the starting and ending points of the stitch but keep the higher number of loops... You will get a very arched tiny stitch. Doesn't it remind you of a flower petal? Add a couple more and get a pretty flower :) Cast-on stitch rose And now the star of this post: the gorgeous cast-on stitch rose! 1. Outline the shape of your future rose and divide the circle into 5 parts. The first stitch will start at the point 1 and end at point 3. Note that you need to skip one point! 2. The next stitch, or petal, starts at point 2 and ends at point 4. Note that the start of the stitch is situated inside the curve of the previous stitch, somewhere in the middle of it. 3. The last petal starts at point 5 and ends at point 1, behind the first stitch. If needed, you can bend the first stitch a little to open more space. 4. For the next “level” you can use 4 points like the ends of a square. Again, as you stitch, skip one point every time, and start the petals in the middle of the curve of the previous one. 5. The four points strategy creates a very pretty spiral! 6. You can fill the small space in the center with tiny arcs of cast-on stitch, like I demonstrated before. That's all! Hope you enjoyed and will try to incorporate this stitch in your next project :) And we are going to learn one more stitch for a dimensional flower this week. I wonder if you can guess which one? 🤔

EDITED: Since I've received so many requests for this pattern, I've made a Google doc for the instructions and the patterns. You can view al...

Dit patroontje had ik al in een andere kleurencombinatie geborduurd (klik) maar ik heb het ook nog een keer in rood/blauw geborduurd. Wat moest ik hier nu weer van maken? Een naaldenboekje, altijd makkelijk en leuk als kadootje. In mijn voorraad linnen lapjes gedoken en aan de slag gegaan. Ik heb hiervoor ook DMC donkerrood 815 gebruikt en blauw 931. Ik ben er weer blij mee! Dankzij de sneeuw van de afgelopen dagen heb ik veel binnen gezeten en allerlei werkjes af kunnen maken of verwerkt. Jullie zullen nog wel het e.e.a. voobij zien wandelen de komende dagen! I already made this pattern in another colour combination (clic) but now I also made one in red/blue. I used it to make a needle map for which I found some fabric in my stock of linen. The colours are dark red 815 and antique blue 931 from DMC. Much snow has fallen here last friday and it is very cold. At night there were temperatures measured here in the Netherlands of 23 degrees below zero! I stayed inside and finished a lot of little projects. You will see them on my blog the next days!

This journal belongs to Brittany. I am an eclectic mixture of Mori-girl, Grimoire and Library-chic. I have a rabbit heart and am buried in books.

*100% linen *Please note that this is extra wide fabric, width 140cm (55”) *Acufactum Mottled linen is very loose and drapey, and can be used for garments and quilts, pillows etc but may need stabilizer if firmness is required. Stonewashed linen is much thicker, has less drape and is textured. Acufactum linen fabric is more similar to a Moda or Kaufmann linen. It has good structure. Acufactum Cross Stitch linen is quite stiff/firm and even weave so appropriate for counted cross stitch

Get cozy crafting this fall with a hands-on workshop from MCreativeJ!

The pattern is in the shop now. Yay! And I thought I'd do this post as a companion to the pattern with unmercifully close up shots of my stitches as a sort of guide ~ though my suggestion is that you go wild and stitch it any way you like!...

Inspired by this month’s single-colour focus, and by Sewphie’s post about single-colour shading, I took thread to fabric and worked in the negative space around a simple shape. This was an experiment, but I am pleased with the result. I worked small stab stitches, varying the size as they converge towards the centre. The piece is small – the widest point of heart itself measures just 4 cm/1-½", but I still worked what seems like 5 million stitches! Of course there are aspects that I will change for the next project, but that’s the fun of trying something new, watching the evolution of an idea. First tip for the next project: Stitch a tiny guideline around the edge of the negative space. I didn’t do this when I began the left side, but here I have added them for the right, and it made the stitching easier and neater when I got to that side. A very useful tip: Use a thread conditioner. This makes a huge difference to the stitching. Repeated stab stitches of this sort are torture for the poor embroidery floss, and it wears and frays much quicker without the conditioner (I learned this the hard way when I took this project out with me and forgot the Thread Heaven). Otherwise, cut shorter lengths of floss to minimize wear. I used a cookie cutter to trace the shape. As I stitched this tiny project, my brain was conjuring up all sorts of variations of a theme...I envisaged a meteor leaving a trail of whites, yellows and golds, worked on black...drops of rain falling and collecting in a puddle...and a beard of bees, worked in tiny black and yellow stabs, swarming around a face (that was late one night). But for now, I’m trying out other stitches around a negative space. French knots look dainty around a butterfly... ...and a snowflake with ice-blue knots, just in time for the onset of winter. What are you stitching? Please share in the &Stitches Flickr group. We'd love to see it!

I've really tried to focus on something unrelated to my Montessori life during this Christmas vacation - really, I have. The thing is, I c...

An open art call for collaborative craftivism, an install in Baltimore, MD with Betsy Greer and Mary England.

cross stitch embroidery, technical

At the last meeting of the Embroiderers' Guild, I was given a little project to take home. It was several candlewicking pieces that required only Colonial Knots. I had never heard of that before, so I learned it and now I'll show you! : ) So welcome back to another edition of 'Saturday Stitches' where you watch me teach myself to embroider! you can see all posts by clicking on 'Tutorials' at the very top of my blog A Colonial Knot is a little different that a French Knot. It doesn't make that little doughnut. It makes a good tied knot but wrapping the needle in a figure eight. Check it out... bring the needle up, and then lie the tip over and under the thread like that... Take the working thread and put it across the tip of the needle and then tuck it under again. put the needle back into the cloth, close to where you first came up Pull to tighten the knot a bit and then take the needle right through to the bottom. And there you have it! It's pretty easy. They sure look lumpy and knotty compared the the French Knot. They would work great as pebbles in a small landscape I bet. hmm.... Have a great weekend!

You've just completed a lovely piece of embroidered art but have decided that it is missing something - text! It can be so fun to add a favorite quote or name to your work, but what stitch should you use? Below I've included a look at my favorite hand embroidery stitches for lettering. Scroll down for information on ea

Somehow, in my sewing and quilting life, I’ve never gotten very far with hand stitching. (This is funny, right? Isn’t this all how we learn to sew in the first place? I remember my very first cross-st

When you think of cross stitch, you probably think of Bible quotes hanging off the walls at your grandma's house. And hey, there's nothing wrong with that, but for those of you who want a little more from your embroidery, check out these badass examples compiled by Bored Panda. From crude comedy and crappy puns to gangster-themed patterns and good old fashioned insults, this awesome collection of alternative cross stitch will make you smile, although your grandma might not appreciate it quite so much. Would you hang any of these on your wall? Let us know in the comments below! (Cover Image: stu_spivack)

Here's the method I've devised to make the Take it Further Fiber Book and the two volumes of Take a Stitch Tuesday stitch sampler. The Take it Further Fiber Book is my first fiber book ever and this is how I went about making the book. Using running stitch I mark the 'pages' on the cloth. Each page has two halves or portions , one on the left and one on the right. The size of the portion where the embroidery stitch is done is 3.2" x 5.75" with a 1/2" space between the two portions (the running stitch done with black thread) . Each page has a line of blanket stitch done around it. The blanket stitch is the means to joining the pages. Once a sizeable number of 'pages' have been completed they are cut and seperated leaving a small seam allowance of about a quarter inch or so on all four sides beyond the blanket stitch. For The Take it Further Fiber Book I ironed fusing onto the back of each page so they are quite stiff. I've decided to leave out the fusing in the Take a Stitch Tuesday books because the pages are about an inch or so smaller and since two layers of fabric make-up a page, the pages are fairly stiff. The blanket stitch along the 1/2" portion between the left and right halves/portions of the page are not joined so that the page can fold. Corners of pages must be matched and pinned and then the pages need to be joined, sewing and connecting blanket stitches on both pages.The left hand portion of the first page is left and you begin by joining the right hand portion of page 1 with the left hand portion of page 2. Once that's done you join the right hand portion of page 2 with the left hand portion of page 3 and so on. In doing this you create little pockets. If you find your page is too floppy then you could slip pieces of card paper into the pockets if you want a stiffer page. In the Take it Further Fiber Book I used black thread to join the pages and every five or six stitches I introduced a clear seed/sugar bead. In the Take a Stitch Tuesday books I'm joining the pages with a clear plastic thread which is as fine as a single strand of hair. Not sure what the name is but it can be used on a sewing machine. For the cover itself I used a single piece of felt which simply wraps around the book. I edged the cover with blanket stitch and embroidered the front cover and the spine portion of the book. The left hand portion of the first page is stitched onto the inside of the front cover (visible in picture above) and the right hand portion of the last page is stitched onto the inside of the back cover. The 'pages' are joined to the cover only on the inside of the front cover and the inside of the back cover. They aren't stitched or connected to the cover on the spine section of the cover. I hope I've been able to describe the method I employ to create my fiber books clearly for you to give it a try. If there's something confusing or unclear leave a comment and I'll try and sort things out for you. I've stitched the pages of the first volume of Take a Stitch Tuesday together and I begin the embroidery for the cover this weekend, so next week Volume one will be ready to view. Have a great weekend. On a separate note - I've become an affilate of Amazon and Flipkart. You will see the banners on the side bar. Should you wish to shop online I would appreciate it if you could click on the Amazon or Flipkart banners/buttons and make your purchases.Amazon and Flipkart will pay me a small percentage of the value of your transaction without increasing the cost for you by even a cent. Thank you and happy shopping.

My stitchers templates enable you to take your embroidery to the next level. Use them to easily design hand embroidery patterns on your quilting projects.