Hello, how are you today? Welcome to our blog About Crochet. We hope you are very well and looking forward to a new Free Crochet Pattern or Tutorial.
¡Hola a todas! Dos bordes de crochet para estos lindos manteles individuales que hemos encontrado en IKEA. Como veis, ambas puntillas de ...
Jazz up some fabrics in your home with Kate Eastwood's adorable crochet edging tutorials! Finish off the edges of tea towels and pillow cases with shell, chain loop or curvy lace edging stitches.
Discover crochet tips and find inspiration on Your Crochet's free patterns blog. Read our post, 'High Tea Fusion Crochet Quilt and Border Free Pattern'.
I often visit Etsy in search of new ideas and inspiration. This is a place were hundreds of talented artist sell their handmade creations....
Learn how to crochet a quick butterfly with this free crochet pattern and video tutorial to add a cute animal to your home decor for Spring.
...I am off tomorrow to our lake cottage where I will spend most of the next two months of summer. As you can imagine, this last week has been a bit nutty because I was trying to tie up a...
A very simple flower in the centre of a basic square: The central part of this pattern can be found here: http://www.rukodelie.by/content/?id=6260 I then added a few rounds of treble crochets until it was the right size.
Jazz up some fabrics in your home with Kate Eastwood's adorable crochet edging tutorials! Finish off the edges of tea towels and pillow cases with shell, chain loop or curvy lace edging stitches.
I love this third edging. "Jonquils" is a little more difficult, but not much. The picot stitches on top of the double crochets remind me of the ruffled heads of jonquils on long thin stems, hence the name. Note: The front and back of crochet stitches look different, as you would expect. I want the smooth front side of the double crochet in this edging to show on the front of the towel, so I am careful to begin the foundation row with the back side of the towel facing me. If mark the towel and start on the back, I'll be ready to turn the towel and do Row 1 on the front. Row 2 shows the back of the picot stitches, but I think it is prettier to show the front of the double crochet. It may not matter at all to you which side of which row shows... Again, you'll begin the Foundation Row as in the Garden Fence edging. Use a washable marking pen to mark 3/8-inch marks across the edge. Push an embroidery awl through the first mark to make a tiny hole. Pull up the thread and make the first slip knot. Chain 4. (Use the awl to make several more holes at the marks. Stay ahead of your crochet about 8-10 holes.) *Sc, ch 3 in the next mark. Repeat from * across. (See the pictures in the tutorial at the link above if you need help with pictures of this foundation row.) Row 1: Ch 1; turn. Sc in the first ch-3 space. Ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-3 space. Ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 space. [Ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-3 space. Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 space] across, ending with the sc in the end space. Row 2: Ch 3 and turn. Skip the ch-3 space. Sc in the first dc of group of 4 dc. Ch 3, sc in next dc. Ch 3, sc in next dc. Ch 3, sc in last dc of group. Ch 3, skip ch-3 space, sc in next sc. Repeat [Ch 3, skip ch-3 space, sc in first dc. (Ch 3, sc in next dc) three times. Ch 3, skip ch-3 space, sc in sc] across. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Hopefully, the following pictures expand the directions for Row 2.
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A few ladies have asked for a tutorial on this crochet edge. This will maybe suit beginners as I cannot read patterns! I learn mainly by watching you tube videos and I get on very well with Attic24 where she writes the instructions up with photos and I seem to be able to follow fairly well. This is the edge I am working on sets of hand towels right now. I really am doing a bulk lot! I copied it from a lovely bath mat my sister in law gave me. It is VERY easy. If you can do chain and a double crochet you are set that is all you need. The first row I work through the fabric you are working with. Towels tend to have a border so I use this as my straight line to follow. I just guess the spacing. Some people use a ruler and a fade out pen to mark spaces. You need a crochet hook small enough that it will go through the fabric ok. Towels are good as they are quite soft to work through. If you do not want to do this you could work your first row with the yarn and a darning needle and work a blanket stitch. This would be about the same in appearance too. The ply you use is up to you... on pillowcases I have used quite a fine yarn and various cotton and silky textures. Same with handkerchiefs. On a towel or face washer I use five ply mostly and cotton. Obviously thicker yarns will give a chunkier edging. A fine yarn will look a little more delicate and lace like. The second row you work six chains then secure your chain into every third stitch on your foundation row. This creates a row of arches... A few arches before the end of the row I will weigh up the spacing and make adjustments so they will look pretty even yet end perfectly on the last stitch. I call this creativity! So now you have a nice row of arches. Turn your work and crochet three chain. Now into the first arch and under the row of chain crochet three double crochets. Then do one chain and three double crochets into the next arch and so on... you have groups of three DC in each arch and a chain between each set. At the end of a row I crochet 3 chain and secure it into the end of the last row to kind of finish off the row neatly. Now turn your work and crochet three chain. This row we are working three double crochet into the first space between the groups below. This is the space made by that one chain between each group. So do three double crochet in under that gap... then one chain and three more double crochet all in that one space. You can see below... After your second group of three work three chain... stretch those chain right over and skip the next space and go into the alternate space... you are completely missing a whole space. Now repeat and work 3 dc, one chain and 3 dc into that space... then three chain, skip over the next gap and go into the flooding one... all the way to the end. It can happen that you have a funny number and need to end your row with a half rather than full set of DC. If that happens don't worry! I think this is a case of you will see what I mean when you get there! At the end secure your arch down with a single crochet to finish, work this into the last stitch below. Now turn your work and work three single crochet. The final row... into each space between your groups of three (the single crochet you did last row is the gap between your groups of three) this is where you will now work five double crochet, one chain and five double crochet all into that one space. After your two groups of five then secure the arch you just created by going under the chain space below and working one single crochet. Then go straight to the next gap and work five double crochet, one chain and five double crochet. You can see in the picture you are just working straight on top of the row below only with more stitches. When you get to the end secure to the row below to finish it off neatly. This is really nice on hand towels and very quick. It would be nice on the opening end of a pillowcase... the ends of a fleecy or wool scarf, even along a curtain for your kitchen window. This was an earlier post on some ideas with Crochet edgings... Crochet edgings and things to make over with them. This post also shows how to work a foundation stitch plus an edging I used to do at one time! I am not sure but it might have been Cookie who worked a pretty edging around the bottom of a cardigan or sweater. This could also lengthen a skirt. If you have trouble following me don't give up there are countless easy crochet edging tutorials on you tube where you can follow along. I was very daunted by patterns until I realised I can do the stitches it is all in the order. As you can see I am no perfectionist. My motto is get going and keep practising! I know quite a few of you have recently taken up crochet and can now do an edging. So a multi row edging would be the perfect next thing to try! I hope this helps someone! xxx
There are a few new projects in the works. The top I started some months ago is in construction. This will be a Mexican peasant top, but it needed some crochet around the neckline which was finis…
Explore rose hip...'s 523 photos on Flickr!
Beginning crocheters may find the thought of creating a beautiful project overwhelming. After all, the most beautiful afghans must be very complicated and super time consuming, right? Wrong. The crochet moss stitch is not only beginner-friendly, but.
Want to surround your crochet project with a fun frill with ease? This crochet ruffle could NOT be easier and it doesn't matter how many stitches you have!
Do you know how you can pass yourself off as a refined lady? Carry a hankie with a lacy edging. Where do you get such a thing in this day ...
Explore Katia Donohoe's 1284 photos on Flickr!
Crocheted thread edging can add a beautiful heirloom-quality to so many articles in a hope chest. This simple crocheted edging is the perfect embellishment for ordinary kitchen towels, pretty printed sheets or plain white pillowcases. It looks lovely on washcloths and tablecloths and even a baby’s burp cloth. It is so easy and fast. The kitchen towel in the picture was completed in about 30 minutes! The stitches used in thread crochet are the same as for yarn, but the thread and hook are both much smaller. If you have never worked with steel hooks and cotton thread, don’t be afraid to try! If it’s been a while since you’ve crocheted, you may want to practice first with yarn until you are comfortable making the basic stitches. Then try a “finger”weight yarn or a size 3 cotton thread with a small hook until you get used to using the tiny hook with thread. Try to be patient with the initial clumsiness. It won’t last long, I promise. To begin, if you are right handed, grab the thread with your left hand pinkie finger and loop it around the finger. Then loop the thread over your left hand index finger and grip the slip knot between the thumb and middle finger. As you crochet, you will work with the section of thread that is between your index finger and the hook. Make sure the thread will move smoothly through your fingers. This is called tension. In the beginning, finding a comfortable tension is a bit of a challenge. I like to wrap the thread twice around my pinkie, and sometimes I gain extra control of the thread, temporarily, by wrapping it twice around my left index finger, as well. The process is really much the same as using larger yarns and hooks, but the thread feels quite different in your hand. You’ll hold everything quite the same as you do a larger hook and yarn, but don’t be afraid to experiment with something different. It is quite common to pull the stitches too tightly as you first work with thread. Concentrate on working relaxed stitches and try to make them even. Don’t be discouraged with your first efforts. It takes some practice, but soon you’ll be putting lace on everything! To embellish the edge of an ordinary kitchen towel, you’ll need these materials: A towel, size 10 cotton crochet thread (you can also use Perle cotton, which is a kind of twisted embroidery thread), a size 7 or size 9 steel crochet hook, an embroiderer’s awl (to punch a hole), a washable marking pen, and a ruler. Use the washable marking pen to mark across the edge of the towel every 3/8-inch. (Use ½-inch markings with size 3 cotton thread.) Push the awl through the fabric at the edge of the towel to make a tiny hole. Pull the thread through the hole and make the first slip knot. Chain five. In the fourth chain from the hook, make a double crochet. Make another double crochet and then a third double crochet in the same space. 3 dc along with the initial ch 3 = 4 stitches in the cluster. Use the embroiderer’s awl to punch holes in a few of the marks. I usually do eight to ten holes ahead of my crochet. If I do too many at one time, they simply pull together before I can get to them and then I can’t find the hole. So, I’ve learned to do just a few at a time. In the next hole, make a double crochet. This forms the “post” of the stitch. Chain three. These chain stitches form the “rise” of the cluster. Working over the post (the previous double crochet), make a double crochet. Over the same post, make a second double crochet and then a third. (Ch 3, 3 dc altogether) In the next hole, make a double crochet. Again, chain three to form the rise. Continue across, using this pattern: (dc in the hole to form the post, ch 3, 3 dc over the dc “post”). Every few stitches, stop and look for any mistakes. When you get to the last stitch, make a hole near the edge. Instead of a double crochet, form a half-double crochet for the last post. Chain three as usual. Make 2 dc over the post. Then, make a final half-double crochet for the last stitch. Clip the thread about 4 inches from the hook. Make a yarn over and pull the thread through the loop to fasten it off. Using a half-double crochet in these last stitches will make the cluster lay just a bit tighter against the edge. Doesn’t it look pretty! Now, do the other end of the towel. You can do just one end. Sometimes, if I'm in a real hurry with a gift, I will do just one end of a towel, but I think it looks nicest to do both ends. Weave the end of the thread (both ends) into the stitches and clip. After weaving through a few of the stitches, I sometimes push the needle into the hem and pull the thread a little way into the hem before I clip it off. I sponge the towel to wash the markings away and “block” the crocheted edge with steam from the iron. Then I fold the towel and it’s finished. The following pics show one of my common mistakes. If I get distracted or have to stop and pick things up again, I sometimes mistakenly do a chain three after I finish a cluster. Then I proceed to make another post in the next hole and continue. You can see the gap in the stitches when I make this mistake. It is easy to just pull it out back to the mistake and then continue again. As I work with the thread, I find it easier to sort of “lay” the stitch over the pad of my finger as I pull the thread through. This helps me keep the stitches even. If you are having trouble with the stitches being too loose, it may help to move your fingers to pinch close to the hook as it slides through the thread to complete the stitch. One final tip. Because I do so much marking, I made a cardboard marking aid, with a row of marks at 3/8-inch and a row of ½-inch markings. I find this quicker than using a ruler. I hope these instructions are clear and that you find this edging as useful as I do. Please leave a comment if you have any questions. If you like the Zig-Zag edging, don't miss my other tutorials located under the crochet edgings label on the sidebar. This "Garden Fence" edging is one of my favorites!
The baby shower was last night, so I can now share what I've been working on. Two grandsons are coming and I'm sooooo excited. The first baby is due in a few weeks, and the second is due a month later. (I love having married daughters! And I love, love, love grandbabies!) As you may imagine, I have been knitting up a storm. A few more projects are still secretly being kept under wraps until after the next baby shower, but I can show you these: EviePants All In One Booties A fantastic pattern knit without seams and starting at the sole. Aviatrix Hat Another great pattern. Thanks to this pattern, I now feel comfortable with wrap & turn short rows. Garter Rib Baby Blanket Rather monotonous to knit, but I like the finished blanket. I do wish I had made this one slightly bigger. Oh, and I can't forget the flannel receiving blankets with crocheted edging. One can never have enough of these blankets. Puppies: Only one round, (2 sc in next stitch, chain 1) repeat around. Bicycles: 2 sc, ch 2, around
If you can’t be there every minute of every day to offer a hug, this warm shawl is the next best thing. The simple pattern calls for a basic stockinette stitch; it’s just the kind of project you can work on while you relax and watch a movie at home.
Beautiful summer top knitted in pure silk. Yarn Amount: Japonica Silk, 150 (150) 200 (250) 250g 100% silk, 50g = 270m / 295 yds Alternatively: Bourette Silk, 150 (150) 200 (250) 250g 100% raw silk, 50g / 300m / 328 yds
Het stekenalfabet: de T van Tulpensteek. De tulpensteek heeft een typisch Nederlands tintje. Uitleg over deze originele haaksteek vind je op Breiclub.nl
¡Hola a todas! Dos bordes de crochet para estos lindos manteles individuales que hemos encontrado en IKEA. Como veis, ambas puntillas de ...
Little girl's socks trimmed in crochet are so precious. They are a sinch to make. You can use any stitch you'd like. Below are a couple of r...
Difficulty: Advanced ✦✦✦✦✦ A series of small celtic knot motifs inspired directly from the Book of Kells. These free crochet patterns are include motifs of varying lengths that can be used individually or pieced together to make a celtic knot border of almost any size. The pattern is presented as a chart.
JULY PI SHAWL 1. CO 9 st with Emiy Ocker’s crochet cast on to 3 needles. 2. k 1 round (9st) 3. yo k1 (18 st)(3x on each of the 3 needles) 4. k 3 rounds 5. yo k1 (36 st)(6x on each needle) 6.…
I’m starting to think that there is something in the water. Friends, left and right,…
Jazz up some fabrics in your home with Kate Eastwood's adorable crochet edging tutorials! Finish off the edges of tea towels and pillow cases with shell, chain loop or curvy lace edging stitches.
I’m so excited to finally present the tutorial for my High Tea Crochet Quilt! However, it’s still a work in progress. Right now it guides you through the sewing and crocheting of the sq…
