How to Crochet A Rectangle Crochet rectangles are so useful! Bag bases, scarfs, pillow covers,punches, purses, clutches, door mats…etc….all these can be made by using a basic re…
Crochet designs are one of modern trends in home decorating
Ok, on to more shapes! This one is a rectangle, and you can tweak it to be as long as you want. (Do you already know the dimensions of your desired rectangle? Scroll to the bottom to figure out the…
This quick and easy free crochet rug pattern is made using one simple stitch and the results are beautiful. In a matter of a couple of hours, you can have...
"Crochet rectangles are so useful. You can make so many crochet projects with a simple Rectangle Base.....Bags,purses,cushion covers,pillows,scarf, rugs, placemats, blankets and so many more as you wish.These would make a perfect base for your crochet rectangle baskets. Today am sharing the pattern to make a Flat Single Crochet Rectangle Base. This base is worked in rounds. It is worked in just simple single crochet stitches.Use stitch markers to keep a track of the stitches. Materials Used:- Yarn 4mm Crochet Hook"
Crochet Base Patterns are so useful in many so many projects, be it of any shape...a Circle, Oval, Square, Hexagon or a Rectangle. You can make so many crochet projects with a simple Rectangle Base.....Bags, purses, cushion covers, pillows, scarf, rugs, placemats, blankets and many more as you wish. Today am sharing the pattern to make a Double Crochet Rectangle Base. This base is worked in rounds. Materials Used:- Yarn 4mm Crochet Hook Here is the Video Tutorial:- Also Please Do Checkout these Crochet Base Patterns:- Single Crochet Square Base Pattern for Bags and Baskets How To Crochet Oval Base For Bags, Baskets Tutorial How To Crochet a Single Crochet Rectangle Base in Rounds Solid Granny Square Coaster without Gaps How to Make a Flat Single Crochet Circle How to make Seamless Crochet Circle Round 1:- Start with a Slip Knot and Chain 15. 1 Double Crochet in the 2nd Chain from the Hook. 1 Double Crochet in each stitch untill the last stitch. (2 Double Crochets, Chain 1, 3 Double Crochets, Chain 1, 2 Double Crochets)- all in the same stitch i.e the last stitch. Work on the Opposite side- 1 Double Crochet in each stitch untill the last stitch. (2 Double Crochets, Chain 1, 3 Double Crochets, Chain 1, 2 Double Crochets)- all in the same stitch. Slip Stitch on top of the First Double Crochet. Round 2:- Chain 2(Not Counted as a stitch). 1 Double Crochet in the same stitch. 1 Double Crochet in each stitch untill the Chain 1 space. (2 Double Crochets, Chain 1, 2 Double Crochets)- all in the same Chain space.(Corner 1) 1 Double Crochet each untill the next Chain space. (2 Double Crochets, Chain 1, 2 Double Crochets)- all in the same Chain space.(Corner 2) 1 Double Crochet in each stitch untill the next corner. Repeat for rest of the corners. Once you reach the end, slip stitch on top of the first Double Crochet. Round 3 onwards:- Keep Repeating round 2 untill you reach the size needed. Just Remember :- Start each round with Chain 2(Not Counted as a Stitch) Start the next stitch in the same stitch. 2DC, Chain 1, 2 DC corner stitches. As the size of the rectangle grows, the stitches between the corners will keep increasing.
+ ITEM DESCRIPTION + Paperback: 80 pages Publisher: Vogue (2022) Language: Japanese Book Weight: 345 Grams 41 Motifs and 13 Projects of Making Pretty Patchwork Crochet Items Contents + Blanket + Tippet + Room Shoes + Cushion + Bags + Tea Mat + Muffler + Pouches + Rugs + Motifs (triangle, rectangle, hexagon, and square) The Book is written in Japanese, but the book has nice diagrams. SHIPPING INFORMATION All items will be shipped by registered method with a tracking number so your item will not get lost during this confusing time. Registered mail fee is already included in the basic postage. The combined shipping cost is automatically calculated as you add items in your cart. Thank you!
Crochet a pretty rectangular placemat for your dinner table, Mother's Day brunch, or wedding reception! This placemat pattern uses easy stitches for a elegant lacy design that fits in at even the most formal dinners!
To paraphrase old blue eyes, “Ragrets, I have had a few….” This year is not going to be like a misspelled tattoo that leave one filled with either regrets or ragrets, but unlike 2015 and 2016, I am going to finish my state fair piece — although you might not be able to tell from […]
Create this gorgeous easy crochet rectangle bag with this free pattern! So easy! Free pattern and video included!
~ medium size ~ Materials: - 4-ply worsted weight acrylic (I used Loops & Threads Impeccable) - J hook Size: small - 4" x 6" ...
Here on Easy Crochet, I’ve created a collection of 7″ x 9″ crochet rectangle squares that are perfect to donate to the Warm up America organization. Below...
How to Crochet A Rectangle Crochet rectangles are so useful! Bag bases, scarfs, pillow covers,punches, purses, clutches, door mats…etc….all these can be made by using a basic re…
Think of shawls, rugs, blankets, bags, cushion or pillow covers, scarves, and placemats. Here are rectangle crochet patterns to give you more ideas!
Crochet Rectangle Basket Free Patterns: Ombre Basket
FREE CROCHET PATTERN and VIDEO for this crochet rectangle basket with handles, also known as the waistcoat basket, uses super bulky yarn to work up fast!
Ombre is still on-trend, so don't wait and explore our today's collection of crochet baby blankets. Check them out, they're gorgeous!
This quick and easy free crochet rug pattern is made using one simple stitch and the results are beautiful. In a matter of a couple of hours, you can have...
How to Crochet A Rectangle Crochet rectangles are so useful! Bag bases, scarfs, pillow covers,punches, purses, clutches, door mats…etc….all these can be made by using a basic re…
Ok, on to more shapes! This one is a rectangle, and you can tweak it to be as long as you want. (Do you already know the dimensions of your desired rectangle? Scroll to the bottom to figure out the…
Crochet Rectangle Basket Free Patterns: Ombre Basket
This pattern has 12 rounds and measures about 4" x 5". Pattern is written using U.S. Terminology. size 10 thread in 2 colors- color 1-30-40 yards color 2- 5-10 yards 1.75 mm hook yarn needle scissors Stitch Abbreviations ch- chain dc- double crochet hdc- half double crochet FPdc- front post double crochet FPsc- front post single crochet FPtr- front post treble crochet sc- single crochet st(s)- stitch(es) yo- yarn over Special Stitches FPtr cluster- ★ yo twice, insert from front to back around dc indicated, yo and pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, repeat from ★ once more, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook. FPdc decrease- [yo, insert hook from front to back around next FPdc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook. picot- ch 3, slip st in last FPsc made. small picot- ch 2, sl st in second ch from hook. large picot- ch 3, sl st in third ch from hook. [ ] - work enclosed instructions the amount of times indicated, or work enclosed instructions in the stitch or space indicated. { } - work enclosed instructions the amount of times indicated. ★ - repeat the following instructions the amount of times indicated. ( ) - Enclose additional information and the number of stitches at the end of a round. Round 1- ch 11 (counts as the foundation and first dc), 6 dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in each of next 6 chs, 7 dc in next ch, turn slightly so you can work across the bottom loops of the foundation chs- dc in the bottom loop of each of next 6 chs, slip st to third ch of first dc. Mark second dc made for st placement on Round 3. (24 dc) Round 2- ch 3 (counts as first dc now and throughout), 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in each of next 8 dc, 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, slip st to third ch of first dc. (36 dc) Round 3- ch 6 (counts as first dc and ch-3 space), dc in next dc, FPtr cluster around marked dc on Round 1, [dc in next dc on Round 2, ch 3, dc in next dc on Round 2, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1] 5 times, ★ skip next 2 dc on Round 1, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1, skip next 2 dc on Round 2, dc in next dc on Round 2, ch 3, dc in next dc on Round 2, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1, skip next 2 dc on Round 1, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1, ★★ skip next 2 dc on Round 2, [dc in next dc on Round 2, ch 3, dc in next dc on Round 2, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1] 6 times, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to third ch of first dc. (28 dc, 14 ch-3 spaces, 18 FPtr clusters) Round 4- slip st into center ch of next ch-3 space, ch 1, sc in same space, ★ {[FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPtr cluster, sc in next ch-3 space} 5 times, {[FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next 2 FPtr clusters together as 1 st, ★★ sc in next ch-3 space} twice, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to first sc. (28 FPdc, 14 ch-3 spaces, 14 sc) Round 5- slip st in next FPdc and into next ch-3 space, ch 3, 4 dc in same space, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, [5 dc in next ch-3 space, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc] around, slip st to third ch of first dc. (70 dc, 14 FPdc decreases) Round 6- slip st in next dc, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 2 dc, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPdc decrease, skip next dc, ★ sc in each of next 3 dc, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPdc decrease, skip next dc, repeat from ★ around, slip st to first sc. (42 sc, 28 FPdc, 14 ch-3 spaces) Round 7- slip st in next sc, ch 1, sc in same st, FPdc around next FPdc, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in next ch-3 space, FPdc around next FPdc, skip next sc, ★ sc in next sc, FPdc around next FPdc, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in next ch-3 space, FPdc around next FPdc, skip next sc, repeat from ★ around, slip st to first sc. (70 sc, 28 FPdc, 14 ch-2 spaces) Round 8- slip st in next FPdc, slip st in next 2 sc and into next ch-2 space, ch 1, sc in same space, ch 3, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-2 space, ch 3, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, ch 3] around, slip st to first sc. (14 sc, 28 ch-3 spaces, 14 FPdc decreases) Round 9- ch 6 (counts as first dc and ch-3 space), dc in same st, ★ ch 2, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, [2 sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1] twice, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, [dc, ch 3, dc] in next sc, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, [2 sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1] 3 times, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, ★★ [dc, ch 3, dc] in next sc, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to third ch of first dc. (8 dc, 4 ch-3 spaces, 8 ch-2 spaces, 58 sc, 14 FPsc, 14 picots) Round 10- slip st in next ch-3 space, ch 3, [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same space, ★ 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 5, [skip next 2 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 5] twice, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 5, [skip next 2 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 5] 3 times, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ★★ [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to third ch of first dc. (40 dc, 4 ch-3 spaces, 14 ch-5 spaces, 30 sc) Round 11- ch 3, dc in each of next 2 dc, [3 dc, ch 3 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, ★ dc in each of next 5 dc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 7 sc in next ch-5 space, sc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, dc in each of next 5 dc, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, dc in each of next 5 dc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 7 sc in next ch-5 space, skip next sc, sc in next sc, skip next sc, 7 sc in next ch-5 space, sc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, ★★ dc in each of next 5 dc, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, dc in each of next 2 dc, slip st to third ch of first dc, fasten off color 1. (104 dc, 4 ch-3 spaces, 44 sc) Round 12- All sc stitches in this round are worked in the back loop only, the slip stitches are made using both loops. Join color 2 in the same st on Round 11, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 3 dc, ★ small picot, sc in each of next 2 dc, sc in first ch of next ch-3 space, in the next ch work- [sc, small picot, sc, large picot, sc, small picot, sc], sc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 11 dc, slip st in next sc, sc in each of next 7 sc, slip st in next sc, sc in each of next 11 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 2 dc, sc in first ch of next ch-3 space, in the center ch work- [sc, small picot, sc, large picot, sc, small picot, sc], sc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 11 dc, slip st in next sc, [sc in each of next 7 sc, slip st in next sc] twice, ★★ sc in each of next 11 dc, repeat from ★ to ★★ once more, sc in each of next 7 dc, slip st to first sc, fasten off and weave in ends. (156 sc, 16 small picots, 4 large picots) It is optional but recommended to block your finished piece. Fill a bowl with water and add some liquid starch if you prefer the square to be lightly stiffened. Soak and gently press out any excess liquid, being careful not to pull or twist on the stitches. Lay it flat on a blocking mat and pin the square working from the center out to the edges. Allow to dry completely before removing the pins.2 Round 1 1- ch 11 (counts as the foundation and first dc). 2 and 3- 6 dc in fourth ch from hook. 4- dc in each of next 6 chs. 5- 7 dc in next ch. 6- turn slightly so you can work across the bottom loops of the foundation chs- dc in the bottom loop of each of next 6 chs, slip st to third ch of first dc. Mark second dc made for st placement on Round 3. (24 dc) Round 2 ch 3 (counts as first dc now and throughout), 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in each of next 8 dc, 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in each of next 7 dc, slip st to third ch of first dc. (36 dc) Round 3 ch 6 (counts as first dc and ch-3 space), dc in next dc, FPtr cluster around marked dc on Round 1, [dc in next dc on Round 2, ch 3, dc in next dc on Round 2, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1] 5 times, ★ skip next 2 dc on Round 1, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1, skip next 2 dc on Round 2, dc in next dc on Round 2, ch 3, dc in next dc on Round 2, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1, skip next 2 dc on Round 1, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1, ★★ skip next 2 dc on Round 2, [dc in next dc on Round 2, ch 3, dc in next dc on Round 2, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1] 6 times, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to third ch of first dc. (28 dc, 14 ch-3 spaces, 18 FPtr clusters) Round 4 slip st into center ch of next ch-3 space, ch 1, sc in same space, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPtr cluster, ★ {sc in next ch-3 space, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPtr cluster} 4 times, {sc in next ch-3 space, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next 2 FPtr clusters together as 1 st} twice, ★★ sc in next ch-3 space, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to first sc. (28 FPdc, 14 ch-3 spaces, 14 sc) [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next 2 FPtr clusters together as 1 st yo and insert hook around the posts of the next 2 FPtr clusters, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice to complete the first FPdc. Ch 3, yo and insert hook around the posts of the same 2 FPtr clusters, yo and pull up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice to complete the second FPdc. Round 5 slip st in next FPdc and into next ch-3 space, ch 3, 4 dc in same space, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, [5 dc in next ch-3 space, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc] around, slip st to third ch of first dc. (70 dc, 14 FPdc decreases) Round 6 slip st in next dc, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 2 dc, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPdc decrease, skip next dc, ★ sc in each of next 3 dc, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPdc decrease, skip next dc, repeat from ★ around, slip st to first sc. (42 sc, 28 FPdc, 14 ch-3 spaces) Round 7 slip st in next sc, ch 1, sc in same st, FPdc around next FPdc, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in next ch-3 space, FPdc around next FPdc, skip next sc, ★ sc in next sc, FPdc around next FPdc, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in next ch-3 space, FPdc around next FPdc, skip next sc, repeat from ★ around, slip st to first sc. (70 sc, 28 FPdc, 14 ch-2 spaces) Round 8 slip st in next FPdc, slip st in next 2 sc and into next ch-2 space, ch 1, sc in same space, ch 3, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-2 space, ch 3, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, ch 3] around, slip st to first sc. (14 sc, 28 ch-3 spaces, 14 FPdc decreases) Round 9 ch 6 (counts as first dc and ch-3 space), dc in same st, ★ ch 2, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, [2 sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1] twice, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, [dc, ch 3, dc] in next sc, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, [2 sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1] 3 times, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, ★★ [dc, ch 3, dc] in next sc, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to third ch of first dc. (8 dc, 4 ch-3 spaces, 8 ch-2 spaces, 58 sc, 14 FPsc, 14 picots) Round 10 slip st in next ch-3 space, ch 3, [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same space, ★ 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 5, [skip next 2 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 5] twice, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 5, [skip next 2 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 5] 3 times, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ★★ [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, slip st to third ch of first dc. (40 dc, 4 ch-3 spaces, 14 ch-5 spaces, 30 sc) Round 11 ch 3, dc in each of next 2 dc, [3 dc, ch 3 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, ★ dc in each of next 5 dc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 7 sc in next ch-5 space, sc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, dc in each of next 5 dc, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, dc in each of next 5 dc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, 7 sc in next ch-5 space, skip next sc, sc in next sc, skip next sc, 7 sc in next ch-5 space, sc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, ★★ dc in each of next 5 dc, [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next ch-3 space, repeat from ★ to ★★ once, dc in each of next 2 dc, slip st to third ch of first dc, fasten off color 1. (104 dc, 4 ch-3 spaces, 44 sc) Round 12 All sc stitches in this round are worked in the back loop only, the slip stitches are made using both loops. Join color 2 in the same st on Round 11, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 3 dc, ★ small picot, sc in each of next 2 dc, sc in first ch of next ch-3 space, in the next ch work- [sc, small picot, sc, large picot, sc, small picot, sc], sc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 11 dc, slip st in next sc, sc in each of next 7 sc, slip st in next sc, sc in each of next 11 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 2 dc, sc in first ch of next ch-3 space, in the center ch work- [sc, small picot, sc, large picot, sc, small picot, sc], sc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 11 dc, slip st in next sc, [sc in each of next 7 sc, slip st in next sc] twice, ★★ sc in each of next 11 dc, repeat from ★ to ★★ once more, sc in each of next 7 dc, slip st to first sc, fasten off and weave in ends. (156 sc, 16 small picots, 4 large picots) Related Patterns Wispweave Square Wispweave Triangle Wispweave Hexagon Wispweave Octagon This pattern is by Julia Hart of Draiguna. Feel free to link to this pattern but do not reprint it on your site. You can sell items made from this pattern. Please credit me as the designer, Julia Hart of Draiguna, link to my etsy shop- draiguna.etsy.com, or to my blog- www.draiguna.com. Please do not claim this pattern as your own, sell, or distribute it. Thank you! © 2019 Draiguna
How to Crochet A Rectangle Crochet rectangles are so useful! Bag bases, scarfs, pillow covers,punches, purses, clutches, door mats…etc….all these can be made by using a basic re…
This Cosy Rectangle Blanket is a cross between a giant continuous Granny Rectangle and a v-stitch blanket. The pattern is beginner-friendly
How to Crochet a Rope Basket with a Rectangle Base
This page outlines how to make a Crochet Granny Rectangle, which is a wonderfully simple variation of the traditional Granny Square.
Ok, on to more shapes! This one is a rectangle, and you can tweak it to be as long as you want. (Do you already know the dimensions of your desired rectangle? Scroll to the bottom to figure out the…
~ medium size ~ Materials: - 4-ply worsted weight acrylic (I used Loops & Threads Impeccable) - J hook Size: small - 4" x 6" ...
Crochet these Faux Burlap and Lace Silverware Pockets for your next country wedding or for your dining table! Easy pattern works up in less than an hour.
Visit this the best round-up of free crochet basket patterns for beginner, intermediate and advanced crocheters to make perfect storage.
THIS POST IS REPUBLISHED FROM 2015: I started this rug as a bit of an experiment and with no plan to create a tutorial so please forgive me if the photos are a little cobbled together. OK guys, now this is more of a marathon than a sprint (although it is super quick) so I think we need to organise ourselves before we start. Why ? because of course I jumped in feet first and fluffed up a few things and could have done them better so you guys get the benefit of my experience. You will need : Cotton sashing cord: I started with 8mm and had to really squeeze it under my presser foot. Once I ran out of 8mm I had to use 7mm - and it was much easier. You may need to see what your own machine is happy to cope with. My finished rug measures approx 47 inches across and I used 125 metres (almost 400 feet) of cotton sashing. Fabric strips: Any length x 1 1/4 inches wide. (Depending on my mood, I ripped some and cut some.) My strips varied between 1 and 2 inches but I found the narrower ones easiest to wrap. I have no idea how much fabric I used but my scraps are once more actually fitting in the scrap basket. Polyester Thread : Lots of thread - more thread than you can imagine. It is a good idea to pre-wind a stack of bobbins as well, because once you get started you are going to want to keep on going - it is highly addictive! Jeans needle: I started with a regular needle and broke one before commonsense kicked in and I switched to a jeans needle. Set Up: OK guys, this is the secret to success. You need to be able to sew somewhere that your machine will be at the same level as a flat surface roughly the size of the rug you want to make. You cannot fudge this step or you will end up making a basket. I started by putting the weird little plastic table on my sewing machine (I have never used it) but in the early stages the rug grows so quickly that it outgrew that little table in no time. In the end, my kitchen table, butted up against the kitchen bench (With the Guinness book of records under my machine to raise it) was the perfect workstation. There is a box, also on a book behind my machine and once the rug got wider than this arrangement I put chairs next to the bench. Yep, home beautiful all the way. You really need to be able to sort this out, if you don't have a flat surface it is impossible to keep your rug flat. Machine settings: I set my machine at the widest zigzag stitch possible and the stitch length at roughly the midpoint of what my machine offers. Getting started: Simply wrap one of the strips around the end of your sashing, making sure you have covered the end. If you look closely you can see, not only the zigzag stitch but also a straight stitch running the length of the cord. I began by stitching the length of the cord after I had wrapped it. I soon realised this was double handling and it wasn't really needed. Wind your covered sashing into a circle and sew. It could not be simpler. Joining: Simply tuck the next fabric strip into the one previous and keep wrapping. You will most likely get little bits hanging out - it is no problem at all, they get hidden as you add the next row around the rug. I began by sewing the ends of the sashing cord together but that meant taking the rug out of the machine each time. The sashing cord had tape on each end to stop fraying, so in the end I just taped them together - woohoo !! Easy !! As the rug grows it is going to get heavier - a lot heavier ! It will then become harder for your machine to 'pull' the rug through. Once the rug became very large, I would sew about 20 cm and then pull the rug around, constantly readjusting it so I was doing the heavy work not the machine. Tips: if you have a needle up/needle down function on your machine set it at needle up. Once your rug gets large and heavy and you start shoving it around a bit,you are less likely to break a needle if you leave it up. Finishing: I took this photo late at night so please excuse it. I wrapped the end of the sashing in sticky tape (just one layer) and then cut it, tapering it to a kind of point. I covered the raw cut edge with a bit more tape and then wrapped it and sewed. A little spot of backtacking and the rug is done! Note : My machine collected an amazing amount of lint during this project. I am not sure if it was the hours of sewing in one sitting, or something to do with the cotton sashing but it is worth your while to stop every few hours and remove the lint build up. If you have any questions I will answer them in the comments so everyone can read them, so make sure you pop back to get your answer.
I’ve added this pattern to the Ravelry database, here. Our front bathroom needed a rug in front of the sink. Since I’ve been feeling frugal, I decided to just make something, rather tha…
Have you ever approached a crochet project that includes a square or rectangle shaped piece and you wind up with wonky edges? Or the dreaded trapezoid
How to Crochet a Rope Basket with a Rectangle Base
The It's A Wrap Crochet Shawl Pattern is sure to be a favorite not only to wear all year long but even while making it. I've fallen in love with its' simple repeat and compact travel size it is ideal for a take-along project. The It's A Wrap Crochet Shawl Pattern is worked as an asymmetrical wrap starting from the narrow end and working to the wide end making it easy to customize size.
Crochet mug rug - The perfect item to give as a little gift or to make for yourself, use these coasters to give a splash of color on your side and ...........
I guess this is only of interest to Mathematicians. Who else would care about its peculiarities? The design consists of 14 different rectangles, all with the same area. The total area of the rectangles is equal to the total area of the background. The original used Aran yarns and is approximately 140 cm by 115 cm (55 inches by 45 inches). It is made in one piece but only one yarn is used at a time. Other yarns could be used but this would change the overall dimensions of the afghan as it is not possible to change the size of any of the rectangles. Read the story of this afghan on Ravelry or on Woolly Thoughts web site. We also have a cushion version of Wreck Tangled.
