Hi all! This post includes everything you need to know about the MCM Throw, a crochet pattern for a geometric throw blanket made of 9 identical squares inspired by mid-century wall art! Get the Lion Brand Kit here! Before we begin, here are some quick links for you: Find the PDF version on Ravelry,
The Very Hungry Caterpillar book is a favourite of kids the world over. This Very Hungry Caterpillar Free Crochet Pattern makes the book of all times comes to life.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you find difficult reading the symbol charts, the following guide is going to help you immensely! Get inspired for your next project with this collection of 130 crochet stitches and the corresponding crochet chart symbols. Pretty awesome, right? We don't know who put these charts together to give … 90+ Crochet Chart Symbols Made Really Simple Read More »
These 12 crochet whale patterns will help you to crochet a couple of amazing whales from cuddly ones to bonus whale-themed patterns including blanket, baby
Embark on a crafting adventure with this Russell Amigurumi pattern, perfect for fans to create their own handmade version of the spirited explorer!
Darling crochet snuggler bunny is so cute! Part lovey, part amigurumi and all fun! #Crochetsnuggler #crochetcuddler #crochet365knittoo
This chunky crochet raglan sweater is a cozy winter wardrobe staple! It is worked from the top down using #5/bulky yarn so it works up really quickly, and you can try it on as you go.
Si comme moi vous trouvez vos sources d'inspiration et modèles de crochet sur le net, vous avez certainement été confronté à la problématique des symboles de points et leur correspondance selon le pays. J'ai commencé à compiler dans le tableau plus bas les points les plus utilisés avec les termes et abbrévations pour les US, UK et la France. Vos corrections et sources complémentaires sont les bienvenues, n'hésitez pas à me contacter pour le faire évoluer.
The Delphine Scarf with Sleeves is the newest free crochet pattern in my obsession with sleeved scarves. Make one with this pattern!
Every week I highlight one of my favorite knit, crochet and fiber art designers on Etsy! This week I'm featuring knit & crochet patterns inspired by Beetlejuice! Fun fact: according to Variety, we can expect a Beetlejuice 2 in 2024! See more knit & crochet patterns inspired by Beetlejuice via Etsy! * This post contains
This Waistcoat Stitch tutorial shows just how easy this crochet stitch can be! Learn how to do the Waistcoat stitch and make crochet hats, bags, cup cozies, and more with this dense and versatile crochet stitch.
This charming and adorable Baby Yoda Outfit Crochet Pattern is ready for some cozy cuddling with a sweet little baby.
Looking for a baby Yoda crochet pattern? All movie fans and crocheters will enjoy these amazing collection of free amigurumi patterns.
Amigurumi free patterns and step-by-step crochet tutorials... One of the free amigurumi crochet patterns we will share today is the amigurumi penguin, whose photos and design belong to Maria Galimzyanova. You can learn how to crochet these penguin using the free amigurumi pattern.
Amigurumi free patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi otter here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.
The swoncho (a mixed shape between the sweater and poncho) has been on my designing list for a couple of years now. And today I am excited to say that I have finally brought this idea to life. Let me introduce – a Polar Swoncho. A comfy and snaggy garment for everyday wear. The pattern is free on my blog below, but if you prefer an ads-free version in one printable pdf file, you can find it HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Materials: Scheepjes Terrazzo (70% Recycled Mulesing Free Wool x 30% Recycled Viscose; 50g/175m) You can find Terrazzo via your local Scheepjes shops, and via online retailers: Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping), Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe), Taemombo (US and Canada). Here is the list of the colors and yarn amounts for some colors. As you can see, only 1/2 skein was used for some colors, so you can play around and use less colors for your swoncho. Or go creative and use leftovers from your stash. Yarn A: 741 Cenere (747 Tortora) x8 balls / 13 balls Yarn B: 745 Pergamena (740 Piuma) x1 ball /1 ball Yarn C: 735 Fontana (749 Caffe Nero) x1 ball (21g) / 1 ball (25g) Yarn D: 736 Bolle (746 Sabbia) x1 ball / 2 balls (52g) Yarn E: 720 Sangria (710 Pera) x1 ball (25g) / 1 ball (27g) Yarn F: 712 Sassolino (756 Guscio d'Uovo) x1 ball / 2 balls (57g) Yarn G: 730 Melanzana (748 Cioccolato) x1 ball (30g) / 1 ball (33g) 3mm, 3.5mm and 4mm crochet hook (or the size to obtain correct gauge) Sizes: 1 (2) Size 1 will fit XXS-L Size 2 will fit XL-3X Lower body circumference: 172 (205) cm/68¼ (93¼) in Sleeve circumference at elbow: 28 (42.5) cm/11 (16 ¾) in Gauge for beginning of the yoke: 24 sts x 22 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in, blocked (every sc and every ch1 and will count as 1 st) Gauge for lower body: 22 sts x 22 rows to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in, blocked (every sc and every ch1 and will count as 1 st) Abbreviations (US terms) beg begin(ning) blo back loop(s) only BOR beginning of the round ch chain stitch cont continue corr corresponding dc double crochet dc3tog double crochet 3 together prev previous RS right side sc single crochet ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es) sp(s) space(s) yo yarn over the hook pm place marker prev previous WS wrong side Pattern repeats: […] repeat instruction inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern. *…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern. Pattern notes: The Polar Swoncho (sweater&poncho) is designed in two sizes. It is worked seamlessly top down. First, the ribbing with slip stitches in back loops only is worked vertically, then some short rows are done to raise the back neck. Then the deep and wide mosaic yoke is worked down to separation for body and sleeves. The sleeves are ribbed, and you can make them longer for a cuffed version. Then the lower body is worked in rounds to the desired length and is finished with ribbing. INSTRUCTIONS An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2022. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you! Purchase ads-free printable pdf with Polar Poncho pattern on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. the file includes all written instructions and link to the video tutorial without ads. Video tutorial: YOKE Beg with Yarn A and 3mm hook. Row 1: Ch7, 1ss in second ch from hook, 1ss in each ch across, turn – 6 ss. Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1ss blo in each st across, turn. Rep Row 2 until you have 68 (84) ridges (or 136 (168) rows in total). Join short sides of the ribbing with flat zip method on RS and cont working along the long edge of the ribbing. Round 1: Change to 3.5mm hook. Ch1, [1sc in next ridge, ch1] rep around, ss to beg sc – 136 (168) sts counting every sc and every ch1-sp as a st; or 68 (84) sc & ch-sps. Round 2: Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc. SHORT ROWS Short row 1: Ch1, 1sc in next sp (pm for BOR – centre back), [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep 16 (18) times, ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss in next sp, turn. Short row 2: Ch1, skip ss, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep to BOR, ch1 (pm), skip BOR, 1sc in same sp as BOR, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep 16 (18) times, ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss in next sp, turn. Short row 3: Ch1, skip ss, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep to 4sc and 3 ch1-sps left before edge of prev short row (moving BOR m up to corr st/sp), ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss in next sp, turn. Rep Short row 3 three more times. Next row (RS): Ch1, skip ss, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep to last sc before marked BOR sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1ss to marked sp, turn. Resume working in rounds. Next round (WS): Ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around skipping the bumps/steps on the edges of the short rows and working sc in same sp as ss; at the same time work (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in any space at centre front, join with ss to beg sc, turn – 68 (84) sc & ch-sps. IMPORTANT! Gauge check: at this point the gauge should be 24 sts per 10cm/4in (slightly stretched or blocked) – to Mosaic Panel 5. INC SET 1 (RS): Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn – 102 (126) sc & ch-sps. Next round (WS): Ch1, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. MOSAIC PANEL 1 Round 1 (RS): Ch1 changing to Yarn B (do not cut Yarn A), 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Rounds 2-4: Cont with Yarn B and rep Round 1 alternating RS and WS. Round 5 (RS): Ch1 changing to Yarn C (do not cut Yarn B), [1sc in next sp, 1dc in skipped st from 3 round below, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 6 (WS): Cont with Yarn C. Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 7 (RS): Ch1 changing back to Yarn B by grabbing it up on WS (make sure the float of yarn does not pull) and cut Yarn C leaving approx. 25cm/10in tail for safe weaving, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, 1dc in skipped st from 3 rounds below] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 8 (WS): Cont with Yarn B. Ch1, [1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Round 9 (RS): Change back to Yarn A (cut Yarn B), rep Round 1. INC SET 2: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] twice, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 136 (168) sc & ch-sps. MOSAIC PANEL 2 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn D and Yarn E for contrast color. Then rep round 9 once more. MOSAIC PANEL 3 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn F and Yarn G for contrast color. INC SET 3: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] three times, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 170 (210) sc & ch-sps. MOSAIC PANEL 4 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1. Then rep round 9 once more. MOSAIC PANEL 5 Change to 4mm hook or stay with 3.5mm and work a little looser. The gauge should change to approx. 22sts per 10cm/4in, slightly stretched, or blocked. Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn D and Yarn E as contrast color. INC SET 4: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] four times, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 204 (252) sc & ch-sps. MOSAIC PANEL 6 Rep Rounds 1-9 from Mosaic Panel 1 using Yarn F and Yarn G for contrast color. Then rep round 9 once more. Then rep Round 1 from Mosaic panel 1 – seven more times, alternating RS and WS in the following order of colors: C, A, E, A, G, A, C. INC SET 5: Ch1, *[1sc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st] five times, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to beg sc, turn – 238 (294) sc & ch-sps. Cont with Yarn A and rep Round 1 from Mosaic Panel 1 until yoke is approx. 50cm/20in measured on front down from neck opening (should be just below elbow). Work last round on WS. SEPARATION for BODY and SLEEVES Separation round (RS): Ch1, 1sc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] rep 45 (53) times for half back, ch7 (13), skip 55 (81) sts for one sleeve, 1sc in next sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next sp] rep 91 (106) times for front, ch7 (13), skip 55 (81) sts for another sleeve, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep 46 (53) times, ss to beg sc, turn – 380 (452) sts for lower body counting both ch-bridges. LOWER BODY Round 1 (WS): Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around treating every underarm ch as one st, ss to beg sc, turn – 190 (226) sc & ch-sps. Round 2: Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Rep round 2 until lower body is approx. 20 (25) cm/7¾ (9¾) in measured down from the underarm, or 2cm shorter than desired length. Then proceed to ribbing. Ribbing for lower body Work horizontally (side to side) around the bottom of the body with 3mm hook. Row 1 (RS): Ch8, beg in second ch from hook, 7ss, 1ss in next sc lower body, turn – 8 sts. Row 2 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 7ss blo, turn – 7 sts. Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 7ss, 1ss in next sc lower body, turn – 8 sts. Row 4 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 7ss blo, turn – 7 sts. Rows 5-8: Rep Rows 3-4 twice. Row 9: Ch1, 7ss blo, 1ss in next sp on lower body, turn – 8 sts. Row 10: Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 7ss blo, turn – 7 sts. Rep rows 3-10 around. Join short sides of ribbing with flat zip method, fasten off. SLEEVES (both alike) With RS facing you, attach Yarn A with ss in a central space in the underarm. Round 1: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1sc in same sp as join, ch1, skip 1 st, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn – 31 (47) sc & ch-sps. Round 2: Ch1, [1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st] rep around, ss to beg sc, turn. Rep round 2 until sleeve is approx. 13cm/5in measured from underarm. Proceed to Ribbing. Ribbing for sleeves Work horizontally (side to side) around the bottom of the body with 3mm hook. Row 1 (RS): Ch32 (or more if you prefer a cuffed sleeve), beg in second ch from hook, 31ss, 1ss in next sc of lower body, turn – 32 sts. Row 2 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 31ss blo, turn – 31 sts. Row 3 (RS): Ch1, 31ss, 1ss in next sc of lower body, turn – 32 sts. Row 4 (WS): Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 31ss blo, turn – 31 sts. Rows 5-8: Rep Rows 3-4 twice. Row 9: Ch1, 31ss blo, 1ss in next sp on lower body, turn – 32 sts. Row 10: Ch1, skip ss worked on lower body, 31ss blo, turn – 31 sts. Rep rows 3-10 around. Join short sides of ribbing with flat zip method, fasten off. Purchase ads-free printable pdf with Polar Poncho pattern on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. the file includes all written instructions and link to the video tutorial without ads. Congratulations! Your Polar Swoncho is now finished! Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Crochet Lying Bear Amigurumi Free Patterns
Amigurumi free patterns and step-by-step crochet toy tutorials... One of the amigurumi free crochet patterns we will share today is amigurumi seagull designed and photos by Marina Palchevskaya. Learn how to crochet this seagull using a free amigurumi pattern. Thanks to Marina Palchevskaya (@v_ujut) for this cute seagull.
Amigurumi free patterns... You can find interesting ideas, tutorials and crochet tutorials about amigurumi otter here. Lots of amigurumi free crochet patterns are waiting for you.
Explore the enchanting world of Cottagecore crochet with our curated list of 50 easy project ideas and free patterns.
Are your kids in the mood to crochet some Fun Summer Accessories? They certainly should be because it is a simple recipe for a great time!
Hello dear Amigurumi FollowersToday we share Amigurumi Bird Sparrow Free Pattern for you. As you know we share
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These adorable crochet chicken patterns are perfect for adding a touch of cuteness to your home decor or for gifting someone special.
(Note: I haven’t finished putting in some of the links I mention but know that some of you want this in time to make Christmas gifts) This is a free pattern for a scarf made up of rectangles joined together and surrounded by a picot-edged border, a fun accessory for anyone who loves Hello Kitty. Each rectangle features either a cute kitty face or a traditional granny square (modified slightly to make it oblong). It is very long. I’ve tried to bold the most information so that you have an idea of how it’s put together, but of course, at some point, I think you should read it all! At the end, I’ve also included links for a pdf of the pattern; it is shorter than these directions here, has fewer photos, more condensed instructions, and fewer explanations. I have already been informed of some errors (wrong stitch total, missing stitches, etc) and have fixed those. I have also tried to fix some spots that others have found confusing. But the pattern probably still contains some errors and confusions; please let me know if you find them. Also, I did not think of this idea/design/motif myself; rather, I saw it as a pattern on Ravelry (which in turn was an adaptation, I believe, from a pattern in a Japanese crochet book), then I also found other versions online. However, when I tried them, I didn’t like the shape of the resulting kitty face nor the fact that the ears were added separately. I also didn’t like how dense the final round around the kitty face was; it didn’t look like a granny square round. So I made up my own pattern, this one here, but it’s based on someone else’s design. OK, then. Here goes… Materials: 5.00mm/US H(8) crochet hook 6.00mm/US J(10) crochet hook Yarn needle Optional but highly recommended: Stitch markers (Alice at futuregirl.com has a tutorial on how to make stitch markers out of paper clips. Quick, easy, and cheap!) Worsted weight yarn for: face (white) outline (your choice; I used grey; red is also very nice) background (your choice; I used bright pink for one scarf, purple for another, and aqua for a third) eyes and whiskers (black) nose (yellow, or light pink if you don’t care about being “authentic”) flower or bow (your choice; I used yellow) granny square colors 1, 2, 3 (I used white, grey, and my background color) (Model made with Caron Simply Soft) Gauge: 4 sc = 1” (2.5 cm), 4-5 rows of sc = 1” (2.5 cm) (if gauge even matters here) Finished Size: Width: about 7” (18 cm) Length: depends on number of squares you use Each granny square*: 5” x 6” (13 cm x 16 cm) Face appliqué only: 3¼” x 4” (8 cm x 11 cm) *The finished “square” is actually not. But who’s ever heard of a Granny Rectangle? So I’m just going to call them as squares throughout. Abbreviations: Most of these abbreviations are standard. The ones I made up are shown in bold. beg = beginning BLO = back loop only (instead of inserting hook under both loops of a stitch, insert hook under the back loop only; more, with photos, here) ch = chain (yarn over, pull up a loop through loop on hook) dc = double crochet (equivalent to UK treble crochet; yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, {yarn over, pull through two loops} twice) hdc = half double crochet (equivalent to UK half treble crochet; yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook) R = row or round sc = single crochet (equivalent to UK double crochet; insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops on hook) sc x N = single crochet in next N stitches, where N is some number sl st = slip stitch (insert hook in next st, yarn over, and pull through work as well as remaining loop(s) on hook) sp = space st(s) = stitch(es) tc = treble (or triple) crochet (equivalent to UK double treble; yarn over twice, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, {yarn over, pull though two loops} three times) V = 2 single crochets in next stitch V x N = 2 single crochets each in next N stitches, where N is some number W = 3 single crochets in next stitch yo = yarn over Special Stitches & Techniques: DOUBLE = skip 4 st, 3 dc in next st (for face square) or skip 3 dc st from prev rnd , 3 dc in next ch sp (for granny square) EAR = sl st in next st, hdc in next st, ch 1, dc in same st as hdc, ch 1, tc in next st, ch 1, dc in next st, ch 1, hdc in same st as dc, sl st in next st fsc = foundation single crochet. A year ago, I’d never heard of this stitch. Now it’s my favorite way to start. In this case of only 4 starting stitches, it doesn’t make that big a difference, so if you’d rather not learn it right now, I’ve provided an alternate method. But on pieces that start with longer chains, I find fsc so much easier, faster, nicer. Essentially, each fsc stitch is made of up a “chain” part and a “stitch” part. So you get your starting chain and your first row at the same time! Do an online search for “foundation single crochet” for more info, tutorials, videos… Here’s a great fsc tutorial with photos to get you started, from Alice at futuregirl.com magic ring = an alternate beginning method when crocheting in the round, which allows one to avoid having a hole left at the center start. Essentially, instead of slip stitching a short chain to make a ring, you make a ring by looping the yarn around your fingers. Need some photos and more instructions? Here’s a great magic ring tutorial by June that includes a comparison picture (“normal” way with hole and “magic ring” way without hole), but her tutorial uses single crochet around the ring. Here’s another great magic ring tutorial by Donna which doesn’t have the comparison picture but does use double crochet which is what we need for the granny squares. JSS = joining slip stitch. Another great technique, this is for joining granny squares as you go instead of stitching them all together at the end. I first saw this technique beautifully explained by Lucy at attic24. Essentially, you substitute a slip stitch for a chain stitch along sides you want to join, inserting your hook into the corresponding chain space of another square before completing the slip stitch. For the scarf, always join along the longer edge of the square. I’ve given detailed steps with photos in the Join As You Go section below. picot = sc, ch3, sl st in 1st ch or sl st, ch 3, sl st in same st or whatever picot stitch you prefer TRIPLE = skip 4 st, 3 tc in next st (for face square) or skip 3 tc st from prev rnd , 3 tc in next ch sp (for granny square) Setup & Planning This pattern is for a crocheted Hello Kitty Granny Square Scarf as shown above – a scarf with a Hello Kitty Granny Square at each end and seven regular granny squares in between (four with white at the center, three with grey). The scarf, intended for a 5-year-old girl, ended up about 45” long. If you want to make it longer or change the pattern of the squares, here’s what I can suggest: Figure out how many squares you need by dividing your desired finished scarf length by 5” (12.75cm) and rounding to nearest whole number. Decide how many face squares you want to include, then figure how many granny squares you need to reach your total. Also, decide on the pattern or order in which to attach the squares. Note: I made this scarf by joining the squares as I crocheted the last round of each square and that’s how I’ll describe the steps. First I’ll give the patterns for how to make the kitty faces and the first three rounds of the granny squares. Then I’ll give the stitch instructions for completing the kitty face squares and granny squares, joining them to previous squares as you go. (If you’d rather, you can complete each square as if it’s the first, then whipstitch or crochet them together at the end.) Next, I’ll give the instructions for the scarf border. And finally, I’ll give the instructions for adding the embroidered facial features and crocheting the ear accessory. Kitty Faces You’ll need to make one for each Hello Kitty Granny Square in your scarf. I’m making two per scarf. I used my own shorthand for writing these directions. Example: R5: ch1, turn, sc x 2, V, sc x 6, V, sc… means that after you chain 1 and turn, you make 1 single crochet in the next 2 stitches (sc x 2), then make 2 single crochets in the next stitch (V), followed by one single crochet in the next 6 stitches (sc x 6), and again 2 sc in the next stitch(V), followed by 1 single crochet in the next stitch (sc), etc. If you would prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, here’s the pattern using abbreviations and here’s the pattern using full text. Notes: Stitch count is shown at end of each line. Ex. “—18 sts.” Do not count the ch1 at the start of each round as a stitch. Do count the sl st at the end of each row as a stitch. (So, the sl st at end of current round becomes the “first stitch” to use in next round.) Start with face color yarn(white) and 5.00mm hook: R1: 4 fsc (or alternate method: ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in remaining 3 ch) —4 sts. R2: ch1, turn, V (in top of fsc closest to hook), sc in next 2 sts, V (in top of last fsc), V (in bottom of last fsc), 3 sc in bottoms of next 3 fsc, sl st to 1st sc of current round —12 sts. R3: ch1, turn, sc, V, sc x 2, V x 3, sc x 4, V, sl st to 1st sc of current round —18 sts. R4: ch1, turn, sc, V, sc x 6, V x 3, sc x 6, V, sl st to 1st sc of current round —24 sts. R5: ch1, turn, sc x 2, V, sc x 6, V, sc, V, sc, V, sc x 8, V, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round —30 sts. R6: ch1, turn, sc x 3, V, sc x 8, V, sc, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 10, V, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round —36 sts. R7: ch1, turn, sc x 3, V, sc x 10, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 2, ear, sc x 4, ear, sc x 2, switch yarn to outline color (grey), sl st to 1st sc of current round (pulling the new color through) —52 st. Continuing with outline color (grey): R8: ch1, turn, sc x 3, skip sl st, sc x 4, W (mark middle/2nd stitch), sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 4, W, sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 2, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 14, V, sc x 2, sl st to 1st sc of current round; bind off —56 st. Granny Square Centers Time to make the other squares for the scarf, the ones that looks like regular Granny Squares. Only thing: they’ve been altered slightly to make them into rectangles instead of squares so that they’ll match the finished shape of the Hello Kitty Granny Squares. Make as many as you need for your scarf. I’m making at least 7 per scarf, 4 starting with white and 3 with grey. In a nutshell, along two sides opposite each other, I substituted triple crochets for the double crochets (see photo below). So if you already know how to granny square, grab a 6.00mm hook and have at it, making the necessary stitch changes on two sides. Otherwise, here’s the pattern for the slightly altered granny squares. By the way, here’s a video by Beth showing how to change color and draw in your starting tail on granny squares and here’s a video by Anne showing how to weave in your ending tails on granny squares. Start with Color 1 (white/grey) yarn and 6.00mm hook: Start: use a magic ring (or alternate method: ch 6, or 5 or 4…, sl st to starting ch to join into a ring). R1: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st, here and throughout), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 tc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch2, 3 tc in ring, ch 2 (this makes the 4th corner), sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off. Switch to Color 2 (background color: pink, purple, aqua) yarn. R2: Insert hook into the 4th corner ch-2 sp, yo (with new color) and pull a loop through, ch3, 2 dc in same sp, {ch1, DOUBLE,} ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE,} ch2, 3 dc in same sp, {ch 1, DOUBLE,} ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE,} ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off. Switch to Color 3 (grey/white) yarn. R3: Same as R2, except do parts in {} brackets twice. Bind off.(Optional: mark the 4th corner so you can easily see which corner to start at later.) By the way, here’s a video by Beth showing how to change color and draw in your starting tail on granny squares and here’s a video by Anne showing how to weave in your ending tails on granny squares. Last Rounds Your squares – kitty and granny – should all be almost done now, just waiting for their last round(s). For this part, first decide on the order in which you’ll be attaching the squares to form the scarf. Next, finish your first square separately. (Or if you don’t want to “join as you go”, then finish all your squares separately, using the following two patterns. Then whipstitch/stitch/sc them together.) * * * Here is the pattern to finish a stand-alone Hello Kitty Granny Square (as shown below). Start with background color yarn (pink), 5.00mm hook and a Hello Kitty face: R9: Turn/Hold face so marked ear is on the right if you’re right-handed, on the left if you’re left-handed. Starting at tip of ear, put hook through middle (marked) st of W in previous round, yo and pull loop through, ch 1, sc in same st, sc x 5, skip 1 st, sc x 2, skip 1 st, sc x 5, W, sc x 13, V, sc x 12, V, sc x 14 (14th sc is in same st as 1st sc of current round), sl st to 1st sc of current round —60 st. (If you prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, abbreviated version is here and full text is here.) Switch to larger 6.00mm hook. R10: Don’t turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st), 2 dc in sl st from previous round, ch1, TRIPLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch 2, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch2, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch 2, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch 2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3; bind off —68 st. * * * Here is the pattern to finish a stand-alone regular Granny Square. (photo coming soon…) Start with background color yarn (pink), 6.00mm hook and a Granny Square Center: R4: Insert hook into the (marked) 4th corner ch-2 sp, yo (with new color) and pull a loop through, ch3, 2 dc in same sp, {ch1, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE} 3 times, ch2, 3 dc in same sp, {ch 1, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE} 3 times, ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off. * * * Next, finish the remaining squares, joining one edge to a previous square as you go by substituting joining slip stitches for chain along that edge. Photo tutorial down at the end. * * * If your next square is a regular granny square, here are the directions for adding the last round and joining as you go. Start with background color yarn (pink), 6.00mm hook and a Granny Square Center: Round 4: Insert hook into a (marked) 4th corner ch-2 sp, yo (with new color) and pull a loop through, ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, {ch1, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE} 3 times, JSS, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, {JSS, DOUBLE} 3 times, ch 1, JSS, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE} 3 times, ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off. * * * If your next square is a Hello Kitty with the joining edge at the bottom, i.e. under her chin, below are the directions for the last two rounds and joining as you go. (photo coming soon) Start with background color yarn (pink), 5.00mm hook and a Hello Kitty face: R9: Turn/Hold face so marked ear is on the right if you’re right-handed, on the left if you’re left-handed. Starting at tip of ear, put hook through middle (marked) st of W in previous round, yo and pull loop through, ch 1, sc in same st, sc x 5, skip 1 st, sc x 2, skip 1 st, sc x 5, W, sc x 13, V, sc x 12, V, sc x 14 (14th sc is in same st as 1st sc of current round), sl st to 1st sc of current round —60 st. (If you prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, abbreviated version is here and full text is here.) Switch to larger 6.00mm hook. R10: Don’t turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st), 2 dc in sl st from previous round, ch1, TRIPLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch 2, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, JSS, ch1, 3 tc in same st, JSS, DOUBLE, JSS, DOUBLE, JSS, TRIPLE, ch1, JSS, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch2, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3; bind off —68 st. * * * And if your next square is a Hello Kitty with the joining edge at the top, i.e. above the ears, below are those directions. (photo coming soon) Start with background color yarn (pink), 5.00mm hook and a Hello Kitty face: R9: Turn/Hold face so marked ear is on the right if you’re right-handed, on the left if you’re left-handed. Starting at tip of ear, put hook through middle (marked) st of W in previous round, yo and pull loop through, ch 1, sc in same st, sc x 5, skip 1 st, sc x 2, skip 1 st, sc x 5, W, sc x 13, V, sc x 12, V, sc x 14 (14th sc is in same st as 1st sc of current round), sl st to 1st sc of current round —60 st. (If you prefer to use conventional crochet pattern terminology, abbreviated version is here and full text is here.) Switch to larger 6.00mm hook. R10: Don’t turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st), 2 dc in sl st from previous round, JSS, TRIPLE, JSS, TRIPLE, JSS, DOUBLE, ch1, JSS, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch2, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, ch2, 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, DOUBLE, ch1, TRIPLE, JSS, ch1, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3; bind off —68 st. Picot Border With the squares all attached together, next step is to finish the edges and add some structure to the scarf by adding a border. Notes: For the picot round, R3, you will be doing a series of {sc, sc, picot} sets except at the corners where there should be a picot in the stitch before the corner st, then 3 sc in the corner st, then a picot in the stitch after the corner st. So, depending on where you start along an edge, you may need to add a picot or a sc, picot before starting your first full set of {sc, sc, picot}. Also, if the number of stitches between the two corner stitches along an edge: is evenly divisible by 3, then add an extra sc into two of the {sc, sc picot} sets somewhere along the edge; has a remainder of 1, then no extra sc are needed; has a remainder of 2, add an extra sc into one of the {sc, sc, picot} sets. * * * Easy way (but I didn’t like how the border dipped in slightly at every spot where two squares joined): Start with background color (pink), 6.00mm hook (I think, or maybe I used the 5.00mm one…) and joined squares: R1: sc all the way around the scarf, doing 3 sc in each ch-2 sp corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round. R2: ch 1, turn, sc all the way around the scarf, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round. R3: ch 1, turn. Including the exceptions and additions as explained in picot note above, {sc, sc, picot} all the way around, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round * * * Slightly more complex way (that gives a smoother/straighter border because of the increased stitch heights at every spot where two squares join; see photo below) Start with background color (pink), 6.00mm hook (I think, or maybe I used the 5.00mm one…) and joined squares: R1: Starting with 1 sc in the ch-2 sp at a corner heading toward a short edge, sc all along the short edge, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner space, 15 sc, {hdc, dc, hdc, 14 sc*}, repeat {} until you reach next corner, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner space, sc along the short edge, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner sp, 15 sc, {hdc, dc, hdc, 14 sc*}, repeat {} until you reach the corner, 1 sc in ch2 corner sp, sl st to 1st sc of current round. *You might have to do fewer or more sc, depending on how you joined your squares. R2: ch 1, turn, sc all the way around, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round. R3: ch 1, turn. Adding extra sc if needed as explained in picot note above, {sc, sc, picot} all the way along, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st to 1st sc of current round. Bind off. Finishing Weave in all ends and block the scarf. (If you’ve never blocked before, Rachel at crochetspot has some good info to get you started.) Then add the facial features and accessories and you’re done! * * * One of the keys to really making this look like Hello Kitty is correct placement of eyes, nose, and whiskers. Hopefully the gridlines on the image below are helpful. The eyes are really low, in the bottom half of her face, each about ¼ of the way in from the sides. And her nose is even lower, about ¼ of the way from the bottom edge. So, using black yarn in a yarn needle, embroider eyes and whiskers. Embroider nose using yellow yarn. In order to make a face on both sides, I made the eyes and nose by putting 3-4 stitches on top of each other, allowing two of the stitches to curve outward to create the oval shape and then tying each one off individually and trying to hide the knot under the stitches on the “back” side. For the whiskers, I did one long stitch for each, tied a knot on the “back” side, slid the knot as far to the outside as I could, i.e. off of her face, onto the outline, and then dabbed some FrayCheck/fabric glue onto the knot before cutting the tails off really short. I will warn you – this was the hardest part for me and at least one other person: getting the eyes to be the same size and evenly aligned, getting the “back” to look at least half-way decent, hiding the knots on the back… I pulled out all my work and started over a number of times. But it is possible. I’ll take pictures of the next face I do. * * * Now for the flower for her ear… With flower color yarn (yellow): R1: Start with magic ring (or alternate method: ch 4-6 and join into ring with sl st), ch 1 (does not count as st), 5 sc into magic ring (or plain chain ring), sl st to 1st sc (counts as a st). R2: {sl st, ch 3, sl st} in BLO of each st. [6 petals]. After last sl st, cut yarn, pull through and tie to starting tail. Sew onto Hello Kitty face near right ear using white yarn so stitches don’t show on the other side. (For a one-sided application, I would have just used one of the yarn tails.) * * * I tried two bows and didn’t like either one. But they can’t be that hard to make. Any ideas? : ) Join As You Go As mentioned earlier, this pattern joins the squares as they’re finished, not after the fact. Essentially, you substitute a slip stitch for a chain stitch along sides you want to join, inserting your hook into the corresponding chain space of another square before completing the slip stitch. For the scarf, always join along the longer edge of the square. The photos below show joining along the third edge; if you’re attaching a Hello Kitty square along its top edge, you will have to join right away along the first edge. In that case, do steps 6-16, then loop back to the beginning. Here’s a photo tutorial of how I did that: 1. Finish last 3 tc shell of current edge. Match up current square to previous square. 2. Insert hook, front to back, through ch 2 space at corner of previous square. 3. Yarn over… 4. …and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch. 5. Chain 1 to finish corner (not shown in photos). 6. Crochet first dc shell of current edge. 7. Insert hook, front to back, through next ch 1 space on previous square. 8. Yarn over… 9. …and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch. 10. Crochet next dc shell. 11. Repeat 7-10 until you reach ch 2 space at next corner. 12. Chain 1 to finish edge/start corner (not shown in photos). 13. Insert hook, front to back, through ch 2 space at corner. 14. Yarn over… 15. …and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch. 16. Continue around remaining edges, starting with a tc shell in the ch 2 corner space. Finished Edge, joined as you went! PDFs of pattern If you want a shorter version to print out, here it is. Click the paper size you want to get to the downloadable pdf… Hello Kitty Granny Square Scarf: Free Crochet Pattern * US Letter size * A4 size *
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