Welcome to the final week of the scrap vortex QAL! I'm thankful that so many of you have joined in and quilted along with me. It's been delightful to look through the #scrapvortexqal hashtag on Instagram. So many scraps are being put to good use! Hurray! Before we get on with today's post, I wanted to share a few quilt tops made by others! This one was made by Amanda of Material Girl Quilts. It measures about 46" x 63". This one was made by Linda of Flourishing Palms. It measures a whopping 89" x 91"! And this one was made by debpotteringabout. She used all of her scraps...ALL of them!!! How is that for a success story? Didn't they all do a great job on their quilts??? Many thanks to Amanda, Linda and Deb for letting me share their work here! Over the past few weeks, I've shown how to fit the pieces together based on the random sizes of your block. I would recommend using that method, if you are up for it. However, I would imagine that some of you may want to rely on a block format for construction. I've done a few quilt block mock ups to show a few options if the random layout isn't working for you. For this first mock up, you could use all 12" blocks. This isn't a bad option at all, just a bit more structured than the typical randomness of a scrap vortex quilt. When you start the assembly, at least you are guaranteed that your blocks will fit together! This second layout uses just 3 different block sizes: 12" squares, 12" x 18" rectangles and 6" x 12" rectangles. In this layout, you will lose the grid of the patchwork (which is a good thing) and it becomes more random, but it's still orderly and predictable. This isn't a bad option, either! These are just a few examples to illustrate my point. Of course, they can be sized up or down as desired. Completely random is good, too! As far as quilting goes, I would recommend doing spiral quilt (tutorial here) to keep with the vortex theme. A pieced back.... and scrappy binding are options that I would recommend as well! It just makes sense, right? :) Well, that's all I have for today! As always, if you any questions, I'll try to answer them in the comments! Thank you ALL for quilting along with me!!!

In January, Teri and I (Kara) started teaching a class called "Crazy Quilting: Start to Finish." You can read about how this class came about here. We began with block construction in session one, marking and stitching motifs in session two, and in session three we got creative with ribbon. We have had two classes running simultaneously at different quilt shops, but with different schedules; once a month on Saturdays and every two weeks for six Wednesday evenings. Our Wednesday class wraps up tonight, and we will share our students' finished projects in a future post, but this week we'd like to show you their progress thus far. As part of the class we gave our students a piece of flannel-backed muslin to use as a practice piece for the stitches we taught. Some of our students turned their practice pieces into samplers, and another neatly labeled her stitches for future reference. Working on a practice piece Labeled stitches A sampler-style practice piece Teri and I have taught our one-day crazy quilting class multiple times over the course of the last two years, but the drawback of that class is we rarely get to see the finished outcome of our students' work, let alone any progress they may have made. For this reason, we developed our 6-week class, and we have been floored, amazed, and tickled to see the creativity of the stitchers in our classes. And these aren't even the finished blocks! I won't wax on too much about how pleased we are to see our students' inspiring work; I will let it speak for itself. This student utilized the fairy tale theme. A beautiful flower using hand-dyed silk, a ribbon stitch, and some French knots A stunning rose out of wired silk ribbon A block close-up, with gathered ribbon "fireworks" over the castle What a delightful, traditional spider and web Neutral background fabrics set the stage for this student's creative and whimsical embroidery. Adding a drizzle stitch A birdbath in a garden A clever use of narrow silk ribbon Hardanger embroidery was incorporated into this block Peaches, hummingbirds, and woven roses: three of my favorite things! This student is using crazy quilt stitches on her log cabin-style quilt block made with silk. Did a love of music inspire this motif? We love the use of the pearls on this block. The daisies are a great use of a piece of trim cut apart. The daisy petals in the motif represent "He loves me, he loves me not." What a clever use of a crocheted doily! We have been thrilled with the progress our students have made so far and are grateful that we have been blessed to teach them. They have taken what they've learned and run with it! As with any class we have taught, Teri and I have learned just as much from our students as they have from us. Stay tuned for our final wrap-up and review of this class!

I thought the block was finished, but as usual, seeing it on the screen, it becomes obvious where more work is needed. Have a ...

Welcome to the final week of the scrap vortex QAL! I'm thankful that so many of you have joined in and quilted along with me. It's been deli...

Welcome to the final week of the scrap vortex QAL! I'm thankful that so many of you have joined in and quilted along with me. It's been deli...

Today I will be sharing a tutorial on how to make a crazy rails quilt. (You can see more photos of my crazy rails quilt here, if you'd like.) My quilt was inspired by a vintage quilt (below) that belongs to Rebecca, who is a member of my modern quilt guild. Someone in Rebecca's family was on the verge of throwing this quilt away, but her dad stepped in a saved it. I'm so glad that this quilt was rescued. It's a beauty... so inspiring! This is the kind of quilt that one could sit under and look at the fabrics for hours. I just love it! This quilt isn't complicated, by any means, but it's the sheer number of pieces that makes it challenging. Here is a simple tutorial for you, in case you would like to make a crazy rails quilt of your own! I'm sure that I will be revisiting this pattern myself, before too long. I seem to be unable to make just one version of any quilt. :) A few things to note: All seam allowances are 1/4". Each block finishes at 3". Each individual "rail" finishes at 1" x 3". I made blocks by strip piecing, mostly, but I also pieced some blocks individually. I like doing both. Strip piecing saves a lot of time, but I am able to use up smaller pieces by making blocks one at a time. The mix of the two methods gave me a nice variety of blocks to work with in the final layout. It is a good idea to reduce your stitch length while strip piecing, so the seams don't start to separate while the blocks are being handled or arranged. (I use a stitch length setting just under 2 on my Juki, but all sewing machines vary.) To make 1 block at a time: Cut three strips of fabric 1 1/2" x 4". Sew the strips together and press seams to the side, or open, whichever you prefer. I generally press the seams toward the darker fabrics. Trim the block to 3 1/2" square. There is very little waste, as you can see. I trimmed from both ends of the block, to ensure that the block is exactly square. To make 2 blocks at a time: Cut 3 strips 1 1/2" x 7 1/2". Sew together and press seams. Trim the strip set to make 2 blocks, each measuring 3 1/2" square. To make 3 blocks at a time: Cut 3 strips 1 1/2" x 11". Sew together and press. Trim the strip set to make 3 blocks, each measuring 3 1/2" square. To make 4 blocks at a time: Cut 3 strips 1 1/2" x 14 1/2". Sew together and press. Trim the strip set to make 4 blocks, each measuring 3 1/2" square. You could make more that 4 blocks at a time, if you wanted to. Personally, I prefer to have fewer blocks that are exactly the same. Playing with different fabric combinations was a lot of fun! Strip piecing definitely helps make this quilt manageable. I made these 10 blocks in a matter of a few minutes. One other handy thing....I'm piecing a log cabin quilt (measurements here) that also uses 1 1/2" wide strips. It's nice to be able to cut fabric for both quilts at once! Quilt Sizes: size measurements # of blocks needed block layout baby 36” x 36” 144 12 x 12 small lap 48” x 60” 320 16 x 20 large lap 60” x 72” 480 20 x 24 twin 66” x 90” 660 22 x 30 queen 90” x 96” 960 30 x 32 king 108” x 108” 1296 36 x 36 I'm not going to give specific yardage requirements for each quilt size, but if you are guesstimating, a baby size quilt usually requires about 1 1/2 to 2 yards of fabric. A lap size quilt generally uses 3 1/2 to 4 yards of fabric. A twin generally uses between 5 1/2 to 6 yards of fabric. A queen generally requires about 7 1/2 to 8 yards of fabric. A king size quilt can use in the ballpark of 10 yards of fabric. This quilt has more seams than most, so it will probably require more fabric than the amounts listed. These are just very general guidelines for an idea of how much fabric you may need. If you think making a whole quilt is just crazy, (and it might be!) you could also use the block measurements for placemats. That would be pretty fun, too! If you use this tutorial, I'd love to see photos of your quilt. Happy Monday to you!

My first experiment with quilting began in the crazy arena when I saw this technique on a television show. I loved that nothing really needed to line up. For me, it was the perfect place to start my quilting journey. So here is a simple technique for creating a crazy quilt block. The final block size is 8 1/2". 1. Get Fabric: Start with five different 10" squares of fabric. You can use a layer cake if you'd like. These are just some scraps that I had. 2. Stack: Stack your fabric on top of each other - right side up. Get ready to cut your fabric; you'll be making one less cut than to the total number of pieces of fabric. So, I have five pieces of fabric and will be making four cuts. If I had four pieces of fabric, I'd make three cuts. 3. Make your first cut - usually somewhere in the middle. Just do it! Don't worry about perfection. You now have two pieces/sections. 4. Cut again: take one piece and make your second cut. It doesn't need to be exactly like this! 5. Make your third and fourth cuts. I made four cuts and end up with five pieces. The five pieces represent the five fabrics you started with. 6. Re-stack the fabric: Leave stack 1 alone. Take the top piece from stack 2 and place it on the bottom of stack 2. It should look like this. 7. Stack Again! Take the TOP TWO pieces from stack 3 and place them on the bottom of stack 3. It will look like this! 8. And Again! Take the top THREE pieces from the next stack and place them on the bottom. Then take the top FOUR pieces from the next stack and place them on the bottom. 9. Done! You'll end up with five blocks (layers) that are all mixed up. But there is a correct order, so don't start moving them just yet. 10. Separate Layers: Take each layer and separate them into your five blocks. You will have one piece of each fabric in a different spot on each block. I put a piece of paper under each set so I could easily carry them to my machine to piece. This helps me keep things sorted. 11. Sew Together: Sew 1 to 2 and then 2 to 3. Then sew 4 to 5. You'll have two parts. You will want to off-set your seams about 1/4" so the edges of the fabric line up more closely. They won't be perfect. 12. Trim your edges: you'll be sewing this to the 4/5 pieces. 13. Trim your other edge. It should look like this - nice and clean! And one piece is a little bigger than the other - not a problem. 14. Sew together. 15. Square it up! I used an 8 1/2" square ruler. Here it is! All trimmed and ready to go. And here are the completed blocks. You can take it from here! You can make a quilt or sew these together, quilt, and make a tote or purse. In any case, have fun with this technique! Here is my very first crazy quilt. Thanks for stopping by! As a gift, here's a free pattern for a round, zippered pouch. It's easy to make...you don't have to cut circles! UPDATE: I've added some information on other cutting options!

I'm kind of hesitant to share this quilt today and I'm not quite sure why. Maybe because it feels so different from most of my work? Maybe because I pushed myself out of my comfort zone a lot while making it? I don't know, but I did like the challenge. And I do like the quilt. A lot. The basic design idea came from a button down shirt. As I was working on it, the quilt took on a life of it's own and it ended up quite different from what I imagined it would be. That's all a part of the fun, though. It's all part of the process. I used a few Kona jelly rolls that I've had in my stash for years. It felt great to finally USE them. This is probably the hardest "simple quilt" I've ever made. It looks like I just took a few strips of fabric and sewed them together. In reality, I spent a lot of time laying out so the colors until they were just right. Lots of math, lots of photos, lots of rearranging. It makes me smile, though, because it totally matches some of my daughter's recent artwork. The quilt will most likely end up on her bed because she needs another quilt. Ha! In this photo the quilt reminded me of those great big parachutes we used to play with in gym class back in elementary school. And that's how a quilt is named. :) The quilt top measures about 78" x 84".

FREE PIECED FABRIC MAKING OK players! Got your bin of scraps? Here's a step by step of 15 minutes of play... Put those strips of fabric away and dig out all your little bits... This will be 15 minutes of sewing... They go together quickly, Don't think, just sew! I have a box under my sewing table that I put all my itty bits in that I save for making fabric. Grab a handful of various sized scraps. Sew one on, press open. This is a good place to add in angles. Is it looking to straight up and down? Lay your next piece on at an angle.... You don't have to line up your seams. I stitched a piece on at an angle, now trim off the bit that sticks out... press it open. Always press your pieces as you sew them on, this will keep your allowances smooth and flat on the back. Keep adding bits... at odd angles, you do NOT need to follow your fabric edge when you do this. THINK ANGLES at all times... sew it on, trim off the bit that sticks out... Keep adding around and trim off pieces that stick out. SAVE the BITS and add them in other places or use to start a new block. Working on any edge that you can add to, keep adding bits and pieces to your made fabric. I am NOT focused on making a SQUARE, I am focused on making a usable piece of FABRIC. Once you have a piece about 7", lay your ruler over the fabric and cut your shape. Here I just followed the size of my ruler. Makes for easy cutting! At 15 minutes, I have on my ironing board, This fun block to play with. When you cut out your squares, try to cut the blocks that will give you the most angles. Save the bits you have cut off to start your next 15 minute fabric process... If your edges get to Curvy or crazy, just trim them to a straight edge. Just don't focus on making them square. You may find you are working with a pentagon or hexagon shape or some unrecognizable shape... just keep adding where you can. If you find your piece, as you practice, does not lay flat, then cut off the wavy bit. Once you cut that wavy part off, you will find "THAT wavy SCRAP" will lay flat after you cut it off. Save it and use it on your next block. You can continue adding to your blocks with made pieces and make even bigger blocks these blocks below are 13 inches square. Often times, I had 4 bits of made fabric that I pieced together... See if you can figure out where I sewn the pieces together. this one above started with the lower right hand section, I squared it off into a pentagon shape then added the top strip, then the LEFT long strip. Use strips of made fabric... You can make strips of fabric and join them around a funky shaped piece of made fabric... Can you see how this block came together? This last one, I had two large pieces of made fabric, and one strip. I cut them on curves and joined them together, then made one more strip of fabric to go across the top... The more angles you use the more interesting your block will get... and it you've made something that you can then try a new idea with! Sometimes you find a piece that is just so perfect and you don't want to cut it down... that is were your Y seams come in... or rather, PIVOT points... If you think of Y seams as pivot point it makes them seem less scary... And it's far better to try Y seams here then on some big fancy project... See where the fabric leads you... It's a good way to practice your sewing techniques that you may otherwise avoid... or not! Like I said, CUT IT OFF, and add something else... That's what your scissors are for! :-) Have a go... Hope this helps.

When I was in Houston in 2016 my special exhibit was right across the aisle from the beautiful Millefiori exhibit with all the beautiful English paper pieced quilts inspired by Willyne Hammerstein and I became fascinated with English paper piecing. I did a few pieces out of fancy silks but then I began to wonder how

Okay, technically my first post in this series was titled "5 Things I Learned While Grafitti Quilting," but then Yvonne (Quilting Jetgirl) had a discussion on her blog about what to call this style of quilting and in the course of that discussion a few of us started calling it flow quilting. It's the same style of quilting, but flow quilting describes it better, we feel. Over the course of 2 weeks, I spent about 30 hours flow quilting the negative space in this magazine project. I can't show you the whole thing yet, but the texture of the quilting is amazing! Here are the things I learned in those 30 hours of flow quilting. 1. Once you learn to quilt a design at a certain size, it's hard to quilt it bigger. Boy did I struggle with this one! Because I started doing free motion quilting without an extension table, I only had a small space in which to work. That meant I did all my designs very small and I have a hard time making them bigger. I started this quilt knowing there was a lot of negative space to fill in, so I kept telling myself 'large scale, large scale,' but I don't know that I actually succeeded 😊 In my defense, here's the scale I usually quilt, so I did manage to quilt somewhat bigger. I could certainly have gone bigger, though. This is detail from my X Marks the Spot quilt 2. Relax and figure out how to do fmq without tensing every muscle in your body. Spending two or more hours quilting every singe day meant that every bit of tension in my body became more and more noticeable as the days went on. When reading the comments on one of Christa Watson's posts recently, I saw that she said "I’ve noticed that it’s difficult to get an ergonomic setup for short people (like me) so the next best thing is to take lots of sewing breaks and stretch when needed" and I so agree! If you could see my setup, you would laugh. I have a box on the floor with books on it, trying to stop myself from twisting to keep my left (non-driving) foot on the floor, plus I sit on a book on my chair to raise me up high enough to be comfortable with the height of my sewing machine and extension table on the kitchen table. It's crazy! It kind of works, though, and I'm able to relax more than when I'm straining to reach. I still have to remind myself to relax as I seem to have a tendency to tense up, but I'm working on that. 3. Take breaks to walk around (see #2) Even with the best setup, and even if you remember not to tense up as you quilt, quilting is still a lot of strain on your muscles. It's a good idea to get up and walk around now and then to really relax and stretch. If you take breaks, you'll be able to quilt comfortably longer, which is definitely a good thing! 4. If you lose track of where you're going and quilt right through the middle of a pebble, no one will ever know. I know that I quilted right through the middle of at least one pebble, but no one will ever be able to find it...even me! There are probably thousands of pebbles in this throw quilt, so finding one that has a mistake would be impossible. Try your best to make each motif perfectly, but don't stress about little imperfections, especially when there are so many motifs in the whole quilt. 5. If you're flow quilting a large quilt, make sure you have lots of time and lots of thread. 30+ hours in a two week period (while also working full-time) meant I had to quilt every single night and even more on the weekends. Since I had a deadline, I worried a little about whether or not I'd have enough time to finish. If I'd had more time, or if I'd been able to quilt at a larger scale, I wouldn't have had to worry. As for the thread, I ordered two spools of Aurifil 2610 for the quilting and I'm so glad I did. Flow quilting really eats up the thread! I used about half of the second spool, which means I used roughly 2000m, or 2 km, of thread 😊 I'm always amazed when I think about the distance the thread I've used could cover! So that's what I've learned with my most recent flow quilting. Do you have any lessons you've learned while quilting? Add them in the comments below if you do 😊

Quilting for Beginners teaches newbies how to quilt from the basics, start to finish. This 5 part series walks you through each step of quilt making.

I am posting a copy of the guest post I did with Marci on Lily's Quilts blog today: Today Leanne from she can quilt and Marci from Marci...

Notoriously difficult many quilters and sewists fear to work with minky. Fear no more here's my super easy, step by step guide to a perfect minky quilt back. Hi everyone, my 5 Step Guide to A Perfect Minky Quilt Back is proving extremely popular across the internet and my tip list is being printed off and shared. Obviously, as a teacher, I'm always delighted to share my knowledge with everyone and 'spread the word' and I'd love you to do the same for me - tell everyone that you found the info right here and suggest that they visit my blog too. You'll notice that sadly I've also added ugly watermarks to the crucial images. Thanks for your support in advance - Chris :D Disclosure: This post contains Amazon and Craftsy affiliate links for which I am paid commission on click-through purchases (at no additional cost to you). Otherwise, no payment or commission is received for click-throughs to shared links; the post is for informational purposes only and all opinions are my own. Now let's slow things down and do the same again in pictures: 5 Step Guide To A Perfect Minky Quilt Back NEVER IRON MINKY, IT WILL MELT!!! step one Lay your minky out on a flat surface. You might want to tape your minky to the surface - I didn't and mine's laid on a slippy glass table top, that part is up to you. You'll notice that my table is also smaller than the quilt - I find that spray basting a quilt in halves or even quarters allows me to baste quilts that are larger than my space would allow with a pin basting method and I can slide the quilt sections away from the table as I finish basting them and move to the next section. step two Lay your quilt top on top of the minky, wrong sides together. I didn't cut the minky to size, that is too tricky at this stage so we'll do it later. Instead, I placed the quilt top at the top corner of the whole minky sheet. step three Fold half of your quilt top back on itself, right sides together and spray baste visible minky on the wrong side. don't go crazy with the spray baste, it's just not necessary - read my spray basting notes below for guidance. step four Unfold quilt top + place it back on spray basted minky, smoothing out wrinkles. Spray baste is repositionable so lift and relay if you have folds or creases. As you can see in the pic, I hold the quilt top high in the area and smooth it back into place on the minky bit by bit and making sure each section is wrinkle free before lowering the next section of the top. I also work from the centre out to the sides easing the fabric as I go. step five Fold the still unbasted half of your quilt top back on itself and repeat Steps Three and Four. This is easy, the quilt top will only lift back from the section you haven't already spray basted - the rest of it is glued! I marked where the bottom corners of the quilt top lay on the minky backing (you can see one of the marks in the bottom right of the pic below). This gave me a visual to spray baste up to rather than spraying the whole of the remaining minky sheet. The two layers are completely glued together and won't move while you quilt or hand-tie or bind the quilt. Unless you've been way too sparing with the spray baste, you really can throw the basted quilt around now - it's like it's one piece of fabric, not two layers. NEVER IRON MINKY, IT WILL MELT!!! spray basting In my classes, I've seen students easily use a giant can of 505 basting spray to baste one baby quilt - this is complete overkill and I guess if people use spray baste in these quantities then probably they do have problems with fumes unless the room is extremely well ventilated. When I spray baste, I can baste 3-8 quilts (depending on size) from one spray can. I spray the quilt layers very lightly in a large sweeping motion from a 1'-2' (30-60 cm) distance - it takes me seconds to complete a quilt sandwich layer. You can't see the spray on the layer surface and it doesn't create a sticky mess on the surrounding floor, furniture or wall (yes, I sometimes baste quilts by taping them to the wall too!). There's never any fumes either, I just don't use enough of it for it to be a problem. Next time you spray baste try moving your hand back a bit from the quilt and spraying faster and for a shorter time, I think you'll be quite surprised to discover you need hardly any of the spray baste for the sandwich layers to stick together. Think of all the money you'll save too!!! If you do experience sticky residue on your surfaces you should be able to wipe these away with a damp, lint-free cloth, stubborn stickiness may need a little detergent to help release it. Some people lay down newspaper sheets before spray basting but the thought of print transfer makes me a little nervous. Another option is to lay your quilt out on a shower curtain bought cheaply from the dollar/pound store and you'll be able to reuse it too. 505 is my preferred spray baste brand and this is where I purchase it. Note: I'm an Amazon affiliate and will receive a small commission (at no additional cost to you) on any purchase you make following this link. cutting minky Minky is also known for stretching and changing shape as you move it and this makes it difficult to cut. Now that the minky is glued to the quilt top the quilt top and spray baste will stabilise the minky and force it to retain its correct shape. Don't be frightened now to handle your quilt. Use scissors or a rotary cutter to cut the excess away from your quilt top. Overlock or zig-zag around the quilt top edge to secure and this will also reduce further shedding of minky fur. I recommend you use a walking foot or dual feed to sew the quilt as this can better manage the fabric bulk and slippy surface texture. Quilt or hand-tie and bind your quilt in the normal way, my preferred method is hand-tying as personally, I don't like the appearance of trapped minky fur under machine quilting stitches. Click the image below for my How To Hand Tie A Quilt tute. cleaning up after working with minky While you are working with minky I recommend regular clean ups of your work surfaces and floor and clothes - this fabric sheds fur like crazy. I have a cordless handheld vacuum cleaner that's perfect for the job. A sticky lint roller or sticking tape wrapped around your hand will help clean your clothes. If you've used your cutting mat you'll probably find minky fur trapped within cuts in the mat - follow my tute for cleaning your cutting mat to restore your mat's surface (click image link below). Finally, lift the sole plate on your sewing machine and give it a good clean - there's bound to be lots of minky fur and lint hiding under there and your machine deserves a bit of TLC! and always remember NEVER IRON MINKY, IT WILL MELT!!! so what is minky? it's a synthetic polyester fibre, fade resistant and super soft, it will remain super soft for its lifetime if laundered correctly. It is available in many nap and pile lengths and in different types of 'fur' and colours. Here's a pic of some minkies I have in my stash, I've shown both sides of the white minky so you can see how the back is made too. I'm often asked about the minkies I use so here are links to my two favourite minkies to work with in ivory and white (they are the two on the far left above). Note: I'm an Amazon affiliate and will receive a small commission (at no additional cost to you) on any purchase you make following this link. is it safe to use minky for baby quilts? as it's a synthetic fibre, minky isn't breathable and, as babies can't regulate their body temperature well, it's certainly not the best choice for a newborn. Aside from a risk of suffocation babies and adults can develop sweats and rashes. Minky isn't a good choice around naked flames or heat either as the fibres will melt. how to launder minky cool wash with detergent. DO NOT use fabric softener as, bizarrely, this will take the life and softness out of the fabric and no bleach either. Dry on a low heat or line dry - remember direct heat will melt minky. is it safe to use spray baste for baby quilts? I'm not able to say it's safe but if you want to use basting spray then use it minimally (see my notes above about over spraying) and wash the quilt at least once before gifting/using and this should remove temporary basting spray. My preferred spray is 505. Related Posts: Love it or hate it, I've shared the minky facts, now it's up to you but don't forget NEVER IRON MINKY, IT WILL MELT!!! 5 Step Guide To A Perfect Minky Quilt Back Do you have any tips for working with minky or experiences to share about minky? We'd love to hear, tell us in the comments :D Featured On: Clicking on an image will take you to a new page of crafty goodness :) Disclosure: This post contains Amazon and Craftsy affiliate links for which I am paid compensation on click-through purchases (at no additional cost to you). Otherwise, the post is for informational purposes only and all opinions are my own. Copyright: Uncredited reproduction of all content, text and images on this site is prohibited. All content, text and images must be credited to Chris Dodsley @made by ChrissieD and include a link back to this site. Follow

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Transform your fabric scraps into beautiful new scrappy quilts by making string quilts. A tutorial from NewQuilters.com #stringquilts #stringquilttutorial

Learn how to make a Churn Dasher quilt block or choose another our Free Block Pattern library. Beginner friendly instructions in 4 sizes.

I've finally finished the long ago started gift for my dear friend, Charlotte. It's a lap quilt, sized just right for her to sit in her cozy home stitching something...that's how I'm picturing it anyway ;). It's a crazy quilt...