How to cross stitch over multiple threads? Cross Stitching over multiple threads Sometimes you read in a pattern: "Stitch over 2, or stitch over 3, over 4, etc. If you are new in the world of cross stitch, or if you always stitched on Aida cross stitch fabric, you might wonder what it means to

Is your cross stitch project turning into a mess? Here are some quick, helpful tips and tricks on how to cross stitch neatly.

Learn how to stitch fly stitch. A stitch that can be used as a filling stitch, a decorative line and a stand alone stitch. Pretty versatile!

Sashiko Stitch Instructions for beginners A trend in embroidery: Sashiko stitching and visible mending. This ancient Japanese craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile pieces. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Sashiko stitching. We share our recommendations for Sashiko materials. You will also

There are a number of ways to prepare your finished cross stitch or embroidery for framing. One of the easiest is to use self-stick mounting board, also called press-on board or simply, sticky board. Sticky board is thick cardboard with a high-tack adhesive on one side. It's acid-free so sticky board is safe for all kinds of needlework, and the adhesive is repositionable so it is particularly forgiving and easy to use.

My first videos of how to start a cross stitch project, even for complete newbies to needlework. If you can count and make an X with thread, you can do it.

Also known as: crewel stitch, stalk stitch, point de cable Through my research, I found out that stem stitch is crewel stitch. It is one of the easiest to be done and perhaps even one of the first stitches to be taught to any beginner. But, many...

Sashiko Stitch Instructions for beginners A trend in embroidery: Sashiko stitching and visible mending. This ancient Japanese craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile pieces. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Sashiko stitching. We share our recommendations for Sashiko materials. You will also

Sometimes simple is best. Cross stitch and hand embroidery looks fresh and modern when finished in a wood hoop, and it's easier than you think to do. Follow these steps for a beautiful finish ever time. There are a number of different ways to finish cross stitch and hand embroidery in a hoop. We like this method because it doesn't use glue, but it is still easy. The advantage to not using glue is you can easily remove the fabric from the hoop if you want to clean it or reframe it down the road. Materials: Wood embroidery hoop...

Do you love color variations threads like DMC's new Coloris line? Learn how to use variegated threads to really show off their uniqueness!

Also known as: Hungarian Braided Chain Stitch The braided chain stitch is worked almost the same way as the heavy chain stitch. There is only a slight difference in the way the needle is taken under the existing loops, thus giving it a totally...

For this lesson, I will be illustrating this stitch over a normal fabric between two parallel stitch lines. The purpose is to give an idea of its technical aspect. Once this is learnt, it is not difficult to produce the stitch on an even weave...

PS makes wellness more accessible through real-life stories, first-person perspectives, and expert-backed information. Our staff of journalists and subject-matter experts research, report, and produce articles, videos, and social content that help people feel good about their well-being choices, no matter what they are. Via our core verticals — Health, Fitness, Beauty, Balance, Identity, and Shopping — we help our audience proceed with confidence.

I’ve recently committed myself to a cross stitching project and there’s honestly no turning back now. The idea is to sit and stitch just one flower a day, using Carolyn Manning’s Stitch Along pattern. Despite…

I have the habit to keep leftover strands of split up embroidery floss in my storage box. This pile became a little mess and I wanted to do something with […]

This list of 20 handmade Christmas gifts to start sewing now is sure to give you plenty of ideas to get started on while you have plenty of time.

Experimenting with a mini hardanger needlework kit I bought in Europe for the first time. It's a beautiful embroidery project featuring cutwork.

Sashiko Stitch Instructions for beginners A trend in embroidery: Sashiko stitching and visible mending. This ancient Japanese craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile pieces. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Sashiko stitching. We share our recommendations for Sashiko materials. You will also

What is the satin stitch and how do I use it? The satin stitch is a series of straight stitches placed next to each other. It...

How to frame your embroidery work in an embroidery hoop Framing your cross stitch project in an embroidery hoop is a quick and modern way to frame your cross stitch piece. An it is a very affordable way as well! There are different ways how to frame your embroidery work in an embroidery hoop.

26 ways to display your finished cross stitch. Try covered buttons, lampshades, bookmarks, frames, bracelets, mason jars and more!

And the new portion of needlepainting tips has arrived! This time let's take a look at an “alternative method” of long and short stitching! I stumbled upon this method not a long time ago. Frankly speaking, I've never seen it anywhere before (and I've examined quite a number of sources ever since I began stitching) and only accidentally bumped into it in summer, I think. This method was presented as one of the ways for long and short stitching, but, personally, I disagree to an extent and have my own thoughts on this “method”. But let me share the tutorial first and then we will discuss it :) Tutorial To put it simply, in this method you use 2-3 (numbers are debatable, that's just an example) colors of thread to fill a shape in long and short stitch. Then you add extra colors in between the existing rows of colors. So, for example, you can use 2 colors and then add 1 between them. Or 3 colors and add 2 more, each one between the original “foundation” rows. Let's take a closer look to understand better. So, the first thing we do is actually fill the shape with the long and short stitch using “foundation” colors. As you see, the colors here are pretty far from each other in tints, so the border between them is very evident. I already talked about how hues and tints can affect the shading in needlepainting in this post, so check it out if you haven't yet. Next, we need to add a couple of extra colors to the existing long and short stitching, using the tints that fit in between the base colors. Now, a bit of technical side. You know the importance of keeping the same direction when you work long and short stitch, right? So, to not go astray in your stitches, I recommend working a few guidelines first. And then fill in the gaps between the guiding stitches. Now that your stitches are out on the surface and won't be covered by the next row, make sure to vary them well at the bottom. So, here is our first extra row of stitches. I worked the full row with stitches close tight together as I would usually do in typical long and short stitching. But with the second extra row, I just added stray stitches here and there and let them mix in naturally. The reason why I did the two “extra” rows differently, is to show you how the surface of the stitching looks after adding them. The first extra row now kind of “bulges out”, if you know what I mean. It sticks out and you can see well that the stitches were made on top of the previous layer of stitching. While the second “extra” row lies flat and doesn't stick out in any way. Here's the final result. Let's discuss As it is one of the “methods” of long and short stitching, I felt the need to speak about it. But truth be told, I don't see any real value in it apart from a few occasions. Mainly, when you have a difficult shading project in your mind and you know what the “base” colors would be, but you are still not sure about the additional finer hues you're going to add. Like in painting, when you lay some base colors and then add more and more brush strokes carving out the details. But even in such cases, it is probably more of the situation with the second extra row, where you add some stitches randomly here and there to enrich the palette and smoothen the blending. Which, again, I can hardly call an “alternative long and short stitch method”. Just a simple side technique. Otherwise, if you already know the colors you are going to use, if you have the map of shading planned in your head, I would NOT recommend using this method. The cons are: The extra rows you work will probably stick out. It will be difficult to maintain the direction of stitches through all of the rows. If you went just a little astray in your second and third rows of the “foundation”, it still might be not as noticeable. You can let it slide. But if a new row comes in between the two when they are already not perfectly aligned, it's going to make things look chaotic. Lastly, you simply waste your thread? Why would you need to make longer rows of “base” colors which will be later covered, if you can just go row by row in a more organic way and spend exactly as much thread on each row as necessary. Sorry if this post was not as helpful as you'd expect and doesn't have any new tips. But if you look closely, you can draw some useful conclusions from this article for your needlepainting! I guess the main tip of this post would be to pass by unnecessary “alternative methods”, haha. Not all of the alternative methods are useless, though! Just try things out and analyze, think whether this or that technique is worth it. I was pretty excited to discover this method because I've never met an “alternative way” of long and short stitching. But as I tried it, I realized why it was my first time hearing about that and why I've never seen it before, haha. Or another casual tip: try to maintain an even surface of your long and short stitching by avoiding throwing in a “patch” of closely situated new stitches on top of the existing ones. Maybe my images don't reflect it that well, but when stitches bulge out it is really visible and spoils the smoothness of shading. Okay, I promise to make the next post contain the real tips! Meanwhile, share if you have any troubles or questions about long and short stitching and needlepainting. If I haven't written about it before, I might make a post to help you solve it!

The split stitch is a lovely outline stitch. It's raised a bit from the surface of the fabric, and it has a lovely, almost-braided look to it. It also forms a more continuous line - unlike the backstitch where you can see the individual stitches. Here's how to split stitch. See how easy it is?

Cross-stitching has been my couchtime jam lately. I love the patterns in this book (read my interview with Julie Jackson here), and was inspired to try and make some of my own! Read on to learn one technique for making your own cross-stitch patterns (no Photoshop required). You will need:...

My studio is finally finished, with the addition of this colorful mural of a cross stitch map of the world in flowers. Here's how to make your own!

Learn how to frame your cross stitch projects in a hoop with a neat felt backing. Tutorial includes clear directions for blocking and finishing your project, lining with batting and stitching on the felt backing.

I've already showed you what couching is and how to do it. And in this video I show how to couch using a sewing machine. Now we're going to take it one step further and use a satin stitch for couching - completely covering the cord with your embroidery thread. Happy stitching!

For the longest time I avoided satin stitch at all costs. What was the point? A machine was always going to do a better job than I could - why put myself through the painful process of trying to make perfect stitches when they will never truly be perfect? I started practicing and my satin stitch was not great. So I w

Top tips on how to clean dirty cross stitch. For yellowed, stained, framed, and marked fabric. Which soap to use, and how to wash aida.

Let's continue learning how to stitch dimensional flowers! This time we will take a look at cast-on stitch and how to use it to work pretty floral motifs. First of all, cast-on stitch is quite similar to bullion knot both in way of working (well, just to some extent) and in ways of using. So, if you don't know yet what is a bullion knot and how to work it, I recommend checking the linked post. By the way, choosing a needle is one more reason why cast-on stitch and bullion knot can be considered distant cousins. As you know, bullion knot requires using Milliners needle, or a needle remotely similar (yes, there are suitable ones, I've used some) with a long thin shaft and narrow eye. The same goes for cast-on stitch. Although the loops aren't wrapped around the shaft as tightly as in the case with bullion knot, still, Milliners needle or its substitutes will serve greatly to make the process as smooth as possible. Today we will learn how to work cast-on stitch and see two ways of making flowers with its help. Cast-on stitch tutorial So, first, you need to make a stitch from one point to another, the distance between these points determining the length of the stitch. Then bring the needle up in the same hole from where it first emerged (or the one next to it if it is hard to bring the needle up without catching the thread with your needle's tip). Actually, in some tutorials, you will see the needle lying on the surface of the fabric, but I find it easier when it stands upright. Now the trickiest part of the whole process. Making a loop. For that, bring your finger under the working thread and then make a rolling motion, bringing the fingertip down. When you do that, the working thread stays wrapped around the finger, forming the loop. Unfortunately, I couldn't take the picture of the movement as one of the hands was occupied by the camera. But here is a nice youtube tutorial: video tutorial. Basically, this is the essential part of the process. If your cast-on stitch doesn't work, you might be doing something wrong in this step. So be careful! 1. The loop around your finger will look like that. Look closely how the thread crosses there. 2. Now slide the loop down the needle's shaft. 3. Pull the thread, so that the loop sits on the shaft comfortable and cozy. 4. Then add as many loops as you need on top of each other. The number of loops can be different, depending on the shape of the final stitch you want to achieve. Fortunately, if you work the stitch with the needle standing upright – you don't really need to count the loops. Just bend the needle down a little and compare if it fits the length of the stitch. The more loops you cast on the needle, the more arched will be the stitch. 5. When you decide that the number of loops is enough, pull the needle through them. 6. And anchor your stitch at the ending point of the stitch. Here is the final look of the cast-on stitch. A couple of tips: In step 4 you can notice the forming of a rib, which is also most likely to start spiraling. This is not very good. I mean, it is not really harmful for the stitch per se, but if you pull the thread before adjusting the rib in one straight line, you will have some trouble with fixing the stitch and giving it a proper look. So, remember: before pulling the needle through, adjust the loops so that the rib is one straight line. You might notice that sometimes the rib of the cast-on stitch is a little wavy, and sometimes it is absolutely even. The “wavy” thingy happens when some loops have a larger gap between each other than the other ones. I caught an example so look at the picture below. This gap makes results in the “wave”. If you don't want any waves you need to adjust every loop, making sure all of them sit evenly on the shaft. And if you like this wavy effect, you can allow yourself to be sloppier when casting the loops and not mind the difference in the gaps. The arrow shows you the gap between the stitches that results in a little wave in the final stitch. Also, note how the rib forms a straight line here. Now, if you cut the distance between the starting and ending points of the stitch but keep the higher number of loops... You will get a very arched tiny stitch. Doesn't it remind you of a flower petal? Add a couple more and get a pretty flower :) Cast-on stitch rose And now the star of this post: the gorgeous cast-on stitch rose! 1. Outline the shape of your future rose and divide the circle into 5 parts. The first stitch will start at the point 1 and end at point 3. Note that you need to skip one point! 2. The next stitch, or petal, starts at point 2 and ends at point 4. Note that the start of the stitch is situated inside the curve of the previous stitch, somewhere in the middle of it. 3. The last petal starts at point 5 and ends at point 1, behind the first stitch. If needed, you can bend the first stitch a little to open more space. 4. For the next “level” you can use 4 points like the ends of a square. Again, as you stitch, skip one point every time, and start the petals in the middle of the curve of the previous one. 5. The four points strategy creates a very pretty spiral! 6. You can fill the small space in the center with tiny arcs of cast-on stitch, like I demonstrated before. That's all! Hope you enjoyed and will try to incorporate this stitch in your next project :) And we are going to learn one more stitch for a dimensional flower this week. I wonder if you can guess which one? 🤔

Sashiko Stitch Instructions for beginners A trend in embroidery: Sashiko stitching and visible mending. This ancient Japanese craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile pieces. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Sashiko stitching. We share our recommendations for Sashiko materials. You will also

Laid work is a great way of quickly creating a solid fill for a large area of your embroidery. Read on for tips and inspiration.

If you've ever wanted to cross stitch faster, then this video tutorial on the sewing method will help! Get cross stitching twice as fast!

Also known as: bullion stitch, caterpillar stitch, coil stitch, knot stitch, post stitch, worm stitch, Puerto Rico rose, grub knot This is an interesting stitch used to make simple motifs. I would say that this is an ‘elongated’ knot which can be...

Fix a Hole in Clothes , upcycle your old clothes using only a few easy hand embroidery stitches. Boycott fast fashion with this super power!

General advice for how and why to wash and iron your cross stitch projects without ruining them! Washing your projects and getting them ready for finishing.

This month I've been covering hand embroidery knot stitches on StitchFloral. And although initially, I was going to talk only about basics, in the end, I couldn't stop myself from telling about the Chinese knot. Yeah, this mysterious guy which is often referred to as “Forbidden stitch”;) Actually, it is not that complicated to stitch. But as it's hardly ever included in the list of basic stitches and you can barely find it in stitch encyclopedias, I decided to make it the first one in the series “Upgrade your embroidery”. Chinese knot has many other names, among which Forbidden stitch and Peking knot are probably the most popular. I remember the moment I stumbled upon the name “Forbidden stitch” and being instantly attracted to it – the Chinese knew how to “sell” their special embroidery technique ;) It took me a while to find more information on it and learn how to work it. Neither of diagrams that I found on the web helped me personally, so in my case, I had to figure it out myself by trial and error. However, this stitch is really fun, so I feel like it would be a waste not to share it here! Let's see how to stitch Chinese knot. First, bring your needle up on the top of the fabric. Then you need to make a loop. This is a bit tricky, so please pay attention to the position of thread on the pictures below. Put the thread on top of your index finger and make one wrap by pulling the thread under the finger. Next, as you turn your finger to the left side and put on fabric, you leave a loop on its surface. You might be able to make this loop without the help of a finger, but I find this method easier. When the loop is ready, insert the needle at the same point where it first emerged from the backside, so that it is inside of the loop. Now, here's where the options are available and you can decide on which look you want your Chinese knot to have. If you tighten the twist a little by pulling the free tail of the thread and then pull the needle down through the fabric, you might get a knot like this. It is a closed, compact knot which resembles french and colonial knots from the distance, except that it is flatter. Or you can leave the loop a bit loose and in this case, your knot might actually take a form of a ring. The shape and size of the ring depend on how loose the loop is before you anchor it with a stitch. If you look up ancient Chinese embroideries with the Forbidden stitch, you might notice that it is used there as rings quite often. Needle workers used this stitch as a filling to cover certain areas of their embroideries. Worked closely to each other, Chinese knots in the form of rings give a fascinating, textured surface to embroidery. However, it is quite difficult to master the consistency of the “ring” shape. That's why currently this stitch is more often used in the following manner: When you work Chinese knots with 2-3 strands of thread in the needle and make the loops loose enough, it has a fun “fluffy” look. And the great news is that you don't have to make it exactly the same. Slight variety only makes it more fun! This simplified version of Chinese knot can be used for embroidering foliage on trees, plants with a great number of tiny flowers, birds feathering, fur and so on. It can look especially nice when worked with variegated thread!

Glow in the dark thread is a fun way to add interest to all kinds of cross stitch and embroidery patterns. Activated by natural or artificial light, the thread glows when the lights are out. It's perfect for everything from Halloween designs to adding glowing moons and stars to nighttime scenes. While it looks great, glow in the dark thread has a very different feel than regular cotton embroidery floss, and it can be a bit tricky to stitch with. These tips and tricks will help you get a...

Couching is the process of using embroidery stitches to stitch a cord (or yarn or decorative thread) to the surface of your fabric. It's a fun way to add some nice dimension to your work and it can give you a really unique effect. Give it a try! If you want to couch using your