Hey beautiful! So glad you're here. Hope you find something you love! * 𝐌𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐥: I exclusively use high-quality materials to craft durable and long-lasting luxury press-on nails that you can rely on. The longevity of my nails: - 1-2 days using the adhesive tabs (provided with the nail set) - 2-3 weeks when applied with nail glue. With proper care, you can reuse all of the nails multiple times. * 𝐒𝐢𝐳𝐞: - XS: 14mm, 10mm, 11mm, 10mm, 8mm - S: 15mm, 11mm, 12mm, 11mm, 9mm - M: 16mm, 12mm, 13mm, 12mm, 10mm - L: 17mm, 13mm, 14mm, 13mm, 11mm If you desire a custom size, kindly complete the personalization section within the product options. I am more than happy to assist you in measuring your nail size if you are unsure. * 𝐄𝐚𝐜𝐡 𝐍𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐬𝐞𝐭 𝐢𝐧𝐜𝐥𝐮𝐝𝐞𝐬: - 10 nails of your size - 24 adhesive sticks - 1 nail file - 1 cuticle stick * 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐜𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐞: Every nail in my store is handmade and hand-painted with love and care. Please expect: - 7-10 days for the nails to be crafted - 7-14 days shipping will deliver to you. * 𝐀𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐝𝐮𝐜𝐭: All my nails are handcrafted and tailored to your size. I can create any size and shape you prefer. Don't hesitate to reach out if you need any customization. * 𝐂𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫 𝐒𝐞𝐫𝐯𝐢𝐜𝐞: I am delighted to address any concerns regarding the nails or shipping if you are not completely satisfied. I am always available to assist you with any problems you may encounter. Thank you very much, and I am excited about creating some fantastic nails. Louis Pettipher
I have always found sewing anything round kind of tricky - but I've finally found a formula for sewing bolster cushion covers that works really well! TOOLS & MATERIALS: - 1 Meter of fabric - 1 Meter of piping material (I prefer to use the non-plastic type) - 1 bolster pillow form - 1 zipper (just slightly longer than the length of your pillow form) - Thread - Sewing machine - Scissors - Straight pins - Iron - Seam ripper - Pencil - Carpenter's Square (optional) METHOD: STEP 1: Measure your pillow form Using a soft measuring tape, measure the length of your pillow form from seam to seam and add 1" onto your measurement to determine the length of the body of your pillow cover. (In my case, my bolster pillow was 14" long, so with the added 1" my working measurement for the length of my pillow cover was 15") Now measure the diameter (length across the middle) of the end of the pillow form (again from seam to seam) and add 1" onto that measurement as well. (In my case the diameter of the end of my pillow form was 6", so with the added 1" my working measurement was 7"). To find the appropriate width for the body of your cushion cover, take the diameter of the end of the pillow form + 1" (in my case 7" total) and multiply it by 3.14 (otherwise known as Pi - who knew math had a practical application?). In my case this turned out to be 19.84". STEP 2: Cut your fabric a) Cut the body of your pillow cover according to your measurements (for me: 15" x 19.84") *Tip* I have found that using a carpenter's square to help me measure and mark my fabric has provided me with greater accuracy in cutting, which helps to avoid problems later on. b) Cut 2, 2" strips from your fabric for the piping just slightly longer than the width of your pillow body (in my case I cut them about 21" long), and 2 pieces of piping material the same length as the width of your pillow body (19.84" in my case). c) Cut 2 circular end pieces with a diameter in accordance to the measurement of the diameter of your pillow form + 1" (in my case 7"). *Tip* Use a compass or perfectly round object of some kind that you can trace the circle onto your fabric and then cut it out. In my case I rummaged through my kitchen until I found a pot that I had with a 7" diameter. This is what your pieces should look like: STEP 3: Install zipper a) Take the body of your pillow cover and fold it in half right-side to ride side along the length (15" side in my case). Pin along the edge and sew a basting stitch across the length with a 1/2" seam. *Tip* A basting stitch is just a temporary stitch used to hold things in place for the time being. Use the longest stitch length you have on your machine (in my case 4) and do not secure the beginning or end. b) Open the right-sides of the seam, and iron flat. c) Place the zipper face down across the length of the pillow cover body with the teeth of the zipper right against the edge of the basting-stitch seam. *Tip* Leave the zipper head hanging off the edge of your fabric so it doesn't get in your way. Pin the upper edge of the zipper to the upper edge of the fabric and sew in place using a zipper-foot on your machine (try to get as close to the zipper teeth with your seam as you can). Pin the bottom edge of the zipper to the bottom edge of the seam (make sure you don't go all the way through to the body - just get the seam) and sew in place. d) Zig-zag the edges of the zipper to the edges of the fabric for extra strength. e) Push the zipper-head down so that it sits about 1" away from the edge of the fabric. Secure the end of the zipper about 1/2" away from the edge of the fabric by going back & forth over it with your sewing machine a couple of times. You may need to rip a couple of the basting stitches in order to push the zipper-head down. Secure the end of the zipper by going back & forth over it with your sewing machine a couple of times. Secure the end of the zipper in the same way. e) Trim off the zipper excess and turn the pillow cover body right-side out. Use a seam-ripper to cut the basting stitches and open the zipper. Pull out the basting stitches. STEP 4: Sew the piping a) Fold one end of the piping strip over about 1/2" and iron flat. Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise (right-side out) and iron flat. Open the fabric, and place the piping material inside, against the fold, starting just before the folded over edge. Fold the fabric over the piping and pin in place as snug as possible. Sew along the length of the piping using a zipper-foot on your machine, getting the seam as close to the piping as possible. b) Trim off the raw edge of the piping, so that you have about 1/2" of fabric next to the piping. Snip the 1/2" edge of fabric (being careful not to get too close to the piping) at 1cm intervals along the length of the piping. STEP 5: Sew the piping onto the end pieces a) Mark a starting point on the edge of your circular end pieces (right-side up). Starting with the folded end of the piping, pin the piping around the outside edge of the end piece, placing the end of the piping material at the starting point marked on the end piece (the empty, folded over edge should extend past the starting point). Starting point is placed at the first snip. b) Trim the raw end of the piping so that it matches up to the starting point. Tuck the raw end of the piping into the folded end of the piping and pin in place. Sew the piping in place using a zipper-foot on your machine (try to get the seam as close to the piping as possible - this can be a little tricky). Repeat for the other end piece. STEP 6: Attach the end pieces to the body. a) Place the zipper half-way down the length of the body and turn the body inside-out. b) Position the end piece right-side in, and match the zipper seam on the body to the starting point on the end piece. Pin the outside edge of the body to the outside edge of the end piece all along the circumference of the end piece. It should match up precisely (this is why I find using the carpenter's square to measure and mark my fabric before I cut important). Repeat on the other end. Sew the ends to the body using a zipper-foot on your machine, getting the seam as tight to the piping as you possibly can. c) Turn the pillow cover right-side out and check your seams along the piping. If it's not tight enough, turn it inside out again and give it another go (this can be tricky to get right tight on the first go). When you are satisfied, zig-zag the edges for added strength. STEP 7: Stuff the pillow Turn the pillow cover right-side out and hold your breath while you insert the pillow form. It should be snug, but you shouldn't have to struggle to do up the zipper. Fluff and smooth the pillow form inside the cover until you are satisfied with the shape and enjoy your new bolster pillow!
I N S T A N T • D O W N L O A D = NO physical product will be shipped to you. Use as part of your Cricut Craft project or add the perfect finishing touch to your home wall decor with our beautiful PRINTABLE wall décor! → You will receive READY-TO-PRINT DIGITAL files, which will be available to download IMMEDIATELY after purchase. There will be no watermark. You will receive: • 1 SVG File in a ZIP Folder (Use with Cricut Projects) • x5 PNG Files in ZIP Folder (Best for Printing Wall Décor) • PNG INCLUDED FILES SIZES • 4:5 RATIO 4x5 inch / 8x10 inch / 16x20 inch 3:4 RATIO 6x8 inch / 9x12 inch / 12x16 inch / 15X20 inch / 18x24 inch 2:3 RATIO 4x6 inch / 6x9 inch / 8x12 inch / 10x15 inch / 12x18 inch / 16x24 inch ISO RATIO A5 / A4 / A3 / A2 / A1 11:14 RATIO 11x14 inches • PERSONAL USE ONLY • You are allowed to use any files purchased in my shop for personal use. You can NOT make my images available for digital download, resell or redistribute them as is or modified in digital form. ****** YOU WILL RECEIVE DIGITAL ZIPPED FOLDER. ****** This set of printable digital art comes zipped in a .ZIP folder. You will need to know how to unzip (extract) them on your computer to retrieve them after the download is completed. AFTER PURCHASE: After Purchasing your files will be available to download here: http://www.etsy.com/your/purchases as soon as you complete your purchase. You will also receive an email containing information to download the file. You can also access the download page by going to your Etsy account > purchases > view receipt > and clicking Download Button. *Due the nature of this product REFUNDS ARE NOT OFFERED NOTES: - This is a digital item. NO PHYSICAL ITEM WILL BE SENT. - Due to the nature of digital items, NO REFUNDS for all the items. - Please be thorough before purchasing. - You are not allowed to resell, distribute or give it away as freebies. - You can’t modify the picture, change the colour and/or claim the template/images as your product. - Please make sure your machine and software are compatible before purchasing. - You need a basic knowledge to use the computer software to use these files. Tutorials are not Included. All rights reserved. All designs are ©RedGumPrints Thanks so much for visiting my shop Michelle @RedGumPrints By purchasing and/or downloading these files you agree to the terms as stated above.
How to weave fish from reused paper or ribbon , woven fish
Most often we don't pay much attention to our closets. We just stuff them full of junk and close the doors. Usually we complain that we don't have enough of them, or that they're not big enough, but lately I have been thinking about closets in more unconventional ways. It started with a brilliant front-entry closet to mud-room style nook conversion that I saw from House of Smiths and replicated for a client of mine who had a very narrow entryway, and didn't really need a front closet, but did need a place for visitors to sit and shed their coats and shoes. Click here for tutorial The fact of the matter is, sometimes, depending on your needs in a particular space, a closet can be better used for something other than a closet. One of the things that really bothered me when we first moved into our house was the upstairs hallway. It was straight, narrow, dark, and full of doors. 30 years ago the builders of my home sought to try and include everything a family would need into the space available and for the most part I am happy with that, but in the hallway, it just felt like they were trying to cram too many things in. My small hallway contained: 3 bedroom doors, 1 bathroom door, 1 small coat closet, 1 narrow broom closet, and the most ridiculously undersized linen closet I have ever seen. Broom Closet BEFORE Functionally, these 2 skinny little closets just weren't working for me. Sure they existed, which I guess was better than nothing at all, but the narrow size coupled with bi-fold doors limited what could actually be stored in the closet in the first place and made it very difficult to put things in and pull things out. From a design perspective, I had a rectangle full of rectangles. It was too much repetition. It felt crowded. I couldn't stand it. But what to do about it? Kinda-Custom Storage Cabinet First, I needed to create a different storage solution that worked better for my linens and cleaning supplies. This is when I came up with my Kinda-Custom Storage Cabinet which gave me all the storage I needed and more. With my stuff out of the way, I could concentrate on improving the aesthetics of my hallway. I had 3 main goals in mind for my hallway: light, space, and variety. In order to create some more breathing room between all those rectangles crowded together, I took out the broom closet. I dry-walled over the existing closet opening in the hallway, but didn't eliminate the closet all together (because, I do need some closets). (New tutorial coming soon: How-To Drywall) Instead I cut a hole in the side of the closet which then made it a much needed bathroom closet instead of an impractical hall closet. Eliminating this impractical closet from the hallway cut down on the number of rectangles crowding my hallway, and created a little more open wall space for artwork which will bring more variety and balance to the space. Broom closet AFTER Next I replaced the trim and doors with brilliant white, which automatically lightened and expanded the space. I chose a 3 panelled door, instead of the pre-existing flat doors, which brought more lines, shapes and interest into the space creating more variety. (New tutorial coming soon: How-To Replace Doors) Next on my hit-list was the skinny linen closet. Like the broom closet I had considered removing this closet from the hallway as well and using the space to expand my daughter's bedroom closet, but it didn't quite lend itself as well to becoming a closet in a different room like the broom closet did. Besides, I had another problem to solve. We had a fair number of books that had no official home. My children's bedrooms didn't have space for bookshelves, so their books just got tossed into their closets with their toys. My husband and I ended up keeping our books in our nightstands (which we were increasingly running out of space). My empty linen closet was looking more and more like a built-in bookshelf. It was a super-simple conversion. The shelves were already in place. I just removed the doors and hardware, filled the holes, and painted the closet interior white. I could have just re-used the existing shelves by painting them white, but I wanted them to come all the way to the edge of the opening, so I bought some slightly wider shelving material, cut new shelves and put them in. The only part that was a little tricky was the bottom. Without addressing the bottom, it did just kind of look like a closet with the doors removed, and I didn't really want to put my books right on the floor. So, I built a 4" kick out of scrap lumber and custom fit the bottom shelf around the closet opening. I eliminated another blank rectangle from my hall, added variety, and solved my book storage problem. Win, win, win. Love it!
De collectables van Marianne Design zijn schattige snij- en embossing sets voor allerlei knutselprojecten. Ze worden uitgebracht in vrolijke thema’s, vaak met dieren in de hoofdrol. Sommige snijmallen worden geleverd met bijpassende clear stamps. Andere sets bestaan uit meerdere kleine snijmallen om lagen te creëren voor diepte in het ontwerp. Je kunt de creatables gebruiken met alle standaard stansmachines. Daarnaast zijn de mallen geschikt voor gebruik met papier, foam en vilt. Voeg de uitgestanste figuren toe aan wenskaarten, fotoalbums, uitnodigingen, scrapbookpagina's of journals. Combineer voor een creatief geheel de snij- en embossingmallen met andere knutselmaterialen, zoals stempels en sjablonen.
Sometimes you find something that's just perfect for what you need - but, it just needs a slight alteration. Sometimes making that slight alteration yourself can get you exactly what you want, and save you a lot of money. Case in point: I had this apricot fabric on hand, but needed it to be just a couple shades lighter for the ruffled pillow shams I was making. I set out to see if I could fade the fabric myself to the shade I needed. Here's how I went about it: TOOLS & MATERIALS: - Fabric - Rubber gloves - Apron (to protect your clothes) - Bleach - Measuring cup - Bathtub or other large wash basin PROCEDURE: 1) TEST: I mixed 1 cup of bleach with 10 cups of hot water and fully submerged a small scrap of my fabric in the solution for 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes was up, I removed my scrap from the bleach solution, rinsed it thoroughly with cold water, wrung it out in a cloth, and laid it flat to air dry. Once my scrap was dry, I checked it against the rest of my fabric and found that it had worked perfectly, and was just the right colour! If you don't get lucky the first time like I did, leave the scrap in the bleach solution for a longer period of time until you achieve the shade you desire, or increase the amount of bleach in the solution. However, I wouldn't use more than 2 parts bleach to 10 parts water because if the bleach is too strong it can eat away at the fibers of your fabric and decrease it's quality. 2) CUT YOUR FABRIC: I was working with raw fabric, not a finished product (if you are fading a finished product you would just skip this step), so I decided to pre-cut my pieces before fading them. I probably could have just left the fabric in one piece, but I was worried that I would have difficulty fully submerging a larger piece of fabric evenly in the solution (might create air-pockets, or folds that would absorb the solution differently in different spots). My worst fear was that the fabric might fade un-evenly, and would not end up all the same shade, so I took this extra step to try and avoid that. 3) MIX YOUR BLEACH SOLUTION: Using the same recipe from my test, I mixed 1 part bleach to 10 parts hot water in my bathtub. When I was certain that I had it mixed well, I quickly added my pieces of fabric 1 at a time, making sure each individual piece was fully submerged in the solution (if you do it this way, you want to be quick about it so that the first pieces you put in aren't in the solution for too much longer than the last ones). Once all the pieces were submerged, I set my timer for 15 minutes and let it all sit. *Note* If you want everything to be the same, you'll want to do all of your fabric or items in a single batch. Slight variables can make a difference in between batches, so if you want it all to be exactly the same, do it all at once! 4) RINSE: I drained the bleach solution from the bathtub and squeeze out as much of the solution from the fabric as possible. Next, I turned on the shower and rinsed the fabric out under cold running water as well as I could, and squeezed out the excess water from the fabric when I felt it was sufficient. Next I filled the bathtub with cold water (fully submerging the fabric) and swished the fabric around in it for about 10 minutes. Then I drained the water and squeezed out the excess water from the fabric. *Note* I have read that it is a good idea to submerge your fabric or item(s) in a chlorine neutralizer solution before this step to make sure the bleach stops fading and to eliminate the bleachy smell- however I didn't find this to be necessary. 5) DRY: I debated whether or not to just throw my fabric pieces in the dryer, but instead I decided to roll each piece in a towel and air dry them. It probably would've been fine to dry them in the dryer - but again I was worried about uniformity and wanted all the pieces to dry evenly just in case that somehow effected the fading process. When all my pieces were dry I ironed them and proceeded to sew my pillow covers with all my fabric just the right shade!
Image from: thisoldhouse.com Crown molding is the decorations on the icing on the cake, and finishes off a space or object with beauty and elegance. It looks like it should be simple to do - but it's not. I painfully discovered this the first time I tried to do it myself to finish off the kinda-custom storage cabinet I made awhile back. The problem is that unlike baseboards or other trim you may use in your home crown molding involves cutting compound angles which gets, well . . . mathy. Some people try to avoid this by cutting simple casing or baseboard and place it around the top of a room the same way they would the bottom - but it's just not the same. The beauty of crown molding is not only the way it caps off the top of a wall or object, but the way it projects outward creating beautifully extending lines and shapes. Crown molding should lean out from the wall or object as illustrated in this diagram from rockler.com which creates a "spring angle." You have to keep this angle in mind as you cut the angles to get around the corners of your wall or object. I wish there was a really simple, fail-proof way to cut crown-moulding, but as far as I know there isn't really. I've heard that a more simple way to do it is by creating or purchasing a crown molding jig which will hold your crown molding in it's angled position while you use your mitre saw to cut it, but I've never been able to get my hands on one of these, and really don't know how to use it properly. Crown molding jig. I had to figure it out the mathy way. Now, I've never been much of a mathy person, but luckily I had my Dad (a math teacher by profession and DIY carpenter on the side) to walk me through how to do this as we installed some crown-molding around the fireplace pop-out we recently created in my living room. TOOLS & MATERIALS: - Crown Moulding (enough for what you will need plus extra for test pieces) - Mitre Saw (that can cut compound angles) - Measuring tape - Angle measuring tool - Pencil - Square - Brad-nailer & air-compressor - Sanding block - DAP - Paint - An extra pair of hands - Lots of patience PROCEDURE: First things first, you need to measure the angle of the corner that you need to cut around. Now, looking at my fireplace pop-out, you would assume that it has been built with 90 degree angles - and it has - but assumptions aren't going to cut it when you're working with crown molding - you have to be exact. Most corners that appear to be 90 degrees are not exactly. The trick with cutting compound angles is that the slightest mis-measurement will be amplified by the length of the adjoining angle, and even if you`re out by a tiny amount - you'll end up with a big gap in the corner of your crown molding like so: You'll want to pick up an angle-measuring tool to help you precisely measure the angles - here's 2 we used: STEP 1: Measure Hold your angle-measuring tool around the corner your need to cut around in order to measure it. Once you have identified the exact angle of your corner - you'll want to find it on a chart like this one from woodweb.com: In this instance the corner on my wall was measuring as a 89 degree angle - so in the left hand column of the chart we located 89 degrees, and then we read across the row to discover the mitre angle (35.73) and the bevel angle (30.28) that we needed to cut an 89 degree angle. OK, so what does that mean? The "bevel angle" is the angle at which you are going to set the top of your saw (the blade part), the "mitre angle" is the angle at which you are going to set the base of your saw (the bottom part). So, to cut my 89 degree angle, we set my mitre angle (bottom part) at 35.75 like so: To get 35.75 did require a little bit of estimating, because the settings on my saw aren't quite that precise. And set my bevel angle on my saw to 30.28 like so: Again, a little bit of guess-work had to happen here. So with my saw now looking like this: we were ready to make the first cut! STEP 2: Cutting You're going to want to cut small test pieces first to check all your measurements before you do the real deal. Make sure you have extra crown molding for this purpose. With your saw blade locked in position, hold your piece of crown molding firmly against the saw-bed (making sure that it is flat and flush with the back edge) and make the cut! Put this piece to the side. To get the opposite piece - leave your saw blade in it's position and flip the crown molding over so that it is back-side up. Hold it firmly against the saw-bed (making sure that it is flat and flush with the back edge) and make the cut! Check your pieces by holding them together to make sure that they fit and are lined up the right way: STEP 3: Making Adjustments Check your test pieces on your corner: As you can see - it's not quite right! If this happens to you - first double check all of your measurements and settings to make sure that you didn't make a mistake somewhere along the way. Also check to make sure that you are holding the pieces of moulding so that they are perfectly flush with your edges (because that will make a difference too) If everything is right - why do you have this problem like we did? Because cutting crown moulding is a pain-in-the-rear, finicky business and there is not a huge margin of error to work with! Remember how we had to do some guess work to find the setting on my saw? That probably made the difference! How to fix this: In order to get the tips of your crown-moulding together on the corner, re-adjust your measurements to cut for a smaller angle. In this case we cut for a 89 degree angle, so we're going to readjust our measurements and cut our test pieces for a 88 degree angle and see how that works. If you've still got a gap at the corner, readjust and cut your test pieces for an 87 degree angle and so on until the corner fits together like so: STEP 4: Cutting The Real Deal Now that you have just the right angle worked out with the your test pieces, you're ready to cut the real deal! A) First measure the length that you will need your piece of crown moulding to be (again preciseness is imperative!): B) Make your first cut at the end of a length of moulding the same way you cut your first test piece, using your saw which should be left in the same position. C) Mark the base of the angle with a pencil and square and use this as your point to measure from: Measure and mark the appropriate length on the moulding, remembering to be as precise as possible! D) To cut the other end, flip the moulding over so it is back-side up, and cut the angle about 1 inch over your mark. E) 1 cut at a time, very carefully gradually shave away at the excess until you are right at your mark: Why bother with all this fuss? Why not just cut it right on the mark the first time? If you are super-skilled and you think you can do it perfectly on the first shot - go for it! But, again, because crown moulding has to be done soooo precisely - if you cut it too short even by the tiniest amount - you will have wasted your entire length of moulding, so it is much safer to do it this way. F) Check to ensure that you have cut your piece accurately by holding it up on the wall where it is supposed to go. G) Repeat this process with the other pieces you will need: STEP 5: Dry-fitting All your pieces have been cut, and they should all be right - BUT, just to make sure before you secure them in place you'll want to hold them in position see how they fit together: STEP 6: Secure In Place If everything fits just right - go ahead and secure the moulding in place with a brad-nailer. *Note* If despite all your best efforts to be precise and accurate, you happen to end up with a corner like this that is a little bit over once it is secured: You can use a sanding block to gently sand down the protruding edge to the shape of the moulding like so: STEP 7: Finishing off Fill any cracks and nail-holes with DAP (see my post on "Painting Furniture" for more on how to do this), and finish off with a top-coat of paint!
Hey beautiful! So glad you're here. Hope you find something you love! * 𝐌𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐥: I exclusively use high-quality materials to craft durable and long-lasting luxury press-on nails that you can rely on. The longevity of my nails: - 1-2 days using the adhesive tabs (provided with the nail set) - 2-3 weeks when applied with nail glue. With proper care, you can reuse all of the nails multiple times. * 𝐒𝐢𝐳𝐞: - XS: 14mm, 10mm, 11mm, 10mm, 8mm - S: 15mm, 11mm, 12mm, 11mm, 9mm - M: 16mm, 12mm, 13mm, 12mm, 10mm - L: 17mm, 13mm, 14mm, 13mm, 11mm If you desire a custom size, kindly complete the personalization section within the product options. I am more than happy to assist you in measuring your nail size if you are unsure. * 𝐄𝐚𝐜𝐡 𝐍𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐬𝐞𝐭 𝐢𝐧𝐜𝐥𝐮𝐝𝐞𝐬: - 10 nails of your size - 24 adhesive sticks - 1 nail file - 1 cuticle stick * 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐜𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐞: Every nail in my store is handmade and hand-painted with love and care. Please expect: - 7-10 days for the nails to be crafted - 7-14 days shipping will deliver to you. * 𝐀𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐝𝐮𝐜𝐭: All my nails are handcrafted and tailored to your size. I can create any size and shape you prefer. Don't hesitate to reach out if you need any customization. * 𝐂𝐮𝐬𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐫 𝐒𝐞𝐫𝐯𝐢𝐜𝐞: I am delighted to address any concerns regarding the nails or shipping if you are not completely satisfied. I am always available to assist you with any problems you may encounter. Thank you very much, and I am excited about creating some fantastic nails. Louis Pettipher
je kan deze slanke lamp buigen, draaien en zijwaarts bewegen om het zachte licht precies op je kast of kleerkast te richten. Een perfecte keuze als er weinig ruimte is tussen de bovenkant en het plafond.
| Dental Health | Teeth | Craftivity | Craft Activity | Mobile | Dental health is an important part of living a healthy lifestyle. Teach your students about some of the basics with this FREE 3D mobile that reviews key aspects of good dental care. Purchase Includes: - Color copies of the 3D tooth mobile - Black and White copies of the 3D tooth mobile - Cut and Paste Worksheet Interested in Other Dental Units? Dental Health, Unit One: Click Here! Dental Health, Unit Two: Click Here! Dental Health, BUNDLE: Click Here! Need Other Popular Life Skills Lessons? Recipe Comprehension:Click Here! Coupons, Reading Emphasis: Click Here! Food Directions: Click Here! Medicine Labels: Click Here! Receipts: Click Here! Tickets: Click Here! Hours of Operation: Click Here! Safety Signs, Community Signs: Click Here! Dollar Up, 1s, 5s, and 10s: Click Here! Menu Math:Click Here! How to Use a Microwave:Click Here! How to Use a Stove:Click Here! How to Use an Oven:Click Here! Coupons, Picture Emphasis:Click Here! Bus Schedules:Click Here! Measuring Cups:Click Here! Budgets:Click Here! Generic vs. Name Brand:Click Here! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Follow My Store! To follow my store simply click on “follow me” under Life Skills Creations on the top of my store page. You will be one of the first people to know when I have a sale or post new Life Skills Freebies in my store. Leave Feedback and Earn Credits! Don’t forget to leave feedback after you purchase a product! Leaving feedback also earns you "credits" which can be used for discounts on future purchases. I would very much appreciate your positive feedback!
Do you remember playing with magnetic or wooden shapes when you were little? I had a set of wooden shapes in different sizes and colours which could be used to make all sorts of pictures and patterns. This is my DIY version, which I made for my class recently as we've been learning about shapes. I started with seven or eight sheets of colourful paper and being very lazy, I cut the shapes out mainly freehand and holding the whole bundle together at the same time! The only shape I didn't cut freehand was the circle as I find I can never get a perfect circle, they just get smaller and smaller as I keep cutting, trying to make them perfect. This pack of paper was from Lidl for £2. What a bargain! After cutting the shapes I laminated them. I have a little laminator at home for doing school bit and pieces (supermarkets sell them for around £10). Then I made up some ideas cards by creating pictures with the shapes and taking photographs of them. When the children at school make their own pictures and designs, I'll take photographs of them too and increase the box of ideas cards. Shapes are great for all sorts of learning including.... Colour and shape recognition Sorting for size, colour, shape Making patterns Making repeating patterns Creating pictures and art You can also discuss properties of shapes such as whether they have curved or straight lines, number of sides, corners etc... Here are some of the other picture card ideas I made. Repeating patterns Create pictures Create art!
6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
Item specificsConditionNew with tags: A brand-new, unused, unworn and undamaged item in the original packaging (such as the ... Read moreabout the conditionNew with tags: A brand-new, unused, unworn and undamaged item in the original packaging (such as the original box or bag) and/or with the original tags attached. See all condition definitionsopens in a new window or tab BrandG-StarTypeJeansSize25ColourBlueStyleTrousersDepartmentMenInsideLeg30 inWaistSize25 inFitRegularFabricTypeDenimModel5562FabricWashMediumThemeFestival, Christmas, City, College, London, Logo, Holiday, Hipster, Hippie, Hip Hop, Nautical, Nature, Fun, 90sSizeTypeRegularClosureZip, ButtonMaterialCotton BlendVintageNoCountry/RegionofManufactureUnknownHandmadeNoPersonaliseNo
How to weave fish from reused paper or ribbon , woven fish
I love Op Art and I thought it would be the perfect lesson to teach Art 1's how to use colored pencils. We began by discussing O...
6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
C R E A T I V I T Y ． B O O S T Using stickers in paper crafting encourages creativity and imagination, allowing for unique designs. 📷 🎥 🔎 | More Photos/Videos for this product: ✓ More visual descriptions from product photos. ✓ Variant images now can be displayed individually. ✓ Click each variant button for a bigger thumbnail. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - https://www.giftsmilee.com/products/ks-sa-3696-good-day-planner - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 🔥 H O T ． S A L E S ． T R E N D I N G ． P I C K S : Looking for the hottest selling items this season? Check out our curated list of top-selling products across various categories. Portable Series Tin Box (12 Types) 🌐 https://www.etsy.com/listing/1701433146 Telado Box Set Stickers Series (21 Types) 🌐 https://www.etsy.com/listing/1697984212 Telado Washi Tape Series (51 Types) 🌐 https://www.etsy.com/listing/1689736003 Browse our extensive hot collection and discover why these items are flying off the shelves! * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 📦 | P R O D U C T ． D E T A I L S : • Packaging Size: 9.5cm x 14.7cm. • Each set contains total of 20 sheets. • Types: 6 Option(s) • Category: Sticker Packs 😍 | M O R E ． C A T E G O R Y : SHOP: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Giftsmilee @ Latest New Products: https://etsy.me/3cTukMq @ Wax Seal Kit: https://etsy.me/3cY87wC @ Storage Bags: https://etsy.me/3OPQ1wl @ Masking Tape: https://etsy.me/2Vnkp2z @ Alphabet Stamps: https://etsy.me/31V8YUx More than 10 Categories. New categories are coming. 👉 | O F F I C A L ∙ S T O R E www.giftsmilee.com 💬 | C U S T O M E R ∙ S E R V I C E S Send me an Etsy convo or Message me with any questions. Unwrap a Smile with Every Gift! Giftsmilee | Established Since 2019
6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
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6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
3D Name Sculpture The first project I had my students do was a 3D name sculpture. This was the inspiration for the project (scroll down). I was very impressed with the outcome. My students' sculptures came out great - especially since it was the first project of the year. First I had my students type out their name using different fonts. I recommended they use thicker fonts that would make a better base. Next I had my students draw out the letters, sketching them lightly in case they needed to erase. I had them add designs in each letter. They then used markers to fill in the designs to create a bolder look. Afterwards they glued each letter to a piece of card stock (or file folder) to make each letter sturdy. I reminded them to position the letters on the card stock before cutting them out to make sure there was enough and not to waste the card stock, and then I had them cut them out. I had them build the structure using a glue gun (which worked very well).
Three years ago I moved to Oregon, just weeks before Christmas. Mark and I had to come up with an idea for family gifts in a hurry with a limited budget. I had seen a set of four decorative coaster...
6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
6 · S I Z E · O P T I O N S 8 x 12 INCHES - 21 x 29 CM (one sheet) 12 x 16 INCHES - 30 x 42 CM (one sheet) 16 x 23 INCHES - 42 x 60 CM (one sheet) 23 x 33 INCHES - 60 x 85 CM (one sheet) 29 x 42 INCHES - 75 x 106 CM (one sheet) 35 x 49 INCHES - 90 x 125 CM (one sheet) I N · S T O C K ····· R E A D Y · TO · S H I P B E S T · Q U A L I T Y ····· E A S Y · U S E · One-piece ∙ Easy-tear · Ideal for use with mache and a range of other surfaces! · Perfect for customizing decor and more · Use the full size (as is) or cut out parts to use on smaller projects. Durable, high-quality, lightweight paper for decoupage and decopatch and is suitable for covering all manner of objects. This beautiful decoupage paper can also be used for other crafts and papercrafts including journaling scrapbooking and card making. This thin, patterned rice paper is designed for fitting sharp corners effortlessly. Although developed with mache surfaces in mind, this decoupage paper can also be used on plastic, wood and metal to create unique effects. The large size decoupage paper is designed for furniture projects but also use it for other craft, draw liner, scrapbook, jewelry boxes, home decor projects and of course as a beautiful gift wrapping. There are many model in our store; decoupage paper for furniture, queen decoupage paper, witch, decoupage paper floral, rice paper decoupage flower, furniture decoupage paper ladies, princess, greek women, countrywoman, dog and puppy pattern tissue, cow, lilly, reispapier decoupage christmas, wood pattern, oyshter, decoupage rice paper for furniture prima, indian, decoupage furniture yellow, floral, sunflower, mermaid, rose rice paper, bible, farmhouse, bird, horse, kitten and cat decoupage, western, farm, boho, asian, dragon, french, victorian, green decoupage paper, blue rice paper, vintage decopage paper, tea party HOW TO MAKE A DECOUPAGE · To use, make sure the surface it is clean and dust free firstly, then select your decoupage paper and cut them out or you can use whole paper if you want. · Secondly, gently brush a layer of decoupage glue onto the object, covering it completely. · Next, apply this paper in place and using your brush or sponge to smooth out all the bubbled and wrinkles and wipe away any excess glue with a barely damp sponge. · Lastly, ensure the glue is dry before starting to varnish and leave the varnish to dry thoroughly between each coat.
