Fashion Flashback: Given that fashion was instrumental in the creation of Canada, this blog series explores the development of what Canadians wore one era at a time. Woman’s Dress (Redingote) (c. 1…
This is an occasional series highlighting historical movie and TV costumes that best represent the decade they were produced in. They may or may not be the most historically accurate, but we think …
A Peacock Themed Regency Dress and Open Robe features a DIY costume made for under $10. It was worn to the D/FW Costumers Guild Picnic.
Pattern Pack A: Size XS–XXL only. We have found in testing that short stays often do not provide optimum comfortable support in the B size range. Our Regency short stays pattern is the perfect foundation for the neoclassical-inspired fashions of the early 1800s through the late 1820s. This style is a lighter alternative to a full length corset. We recommend our long stays pattern for plus sizes as it provide more shaping and support. Pattern features: Ends above the natural waist Bust gussets Back lacing Adjustable shoulder straps Designed for center front boning instead of a busk Includes multi-sized printed pattern, sewing instructions, fitting & mockup guides, and list of supply resources. You can also get all the specialty supplies for our corset and stays patterns in our corresponding kits. See materials list below. This pattern is recommended for those with intermediate to advanced sewing skills. How to Pick Your Size Our stay and corset patterns are based closely on historical shapes and extant examples, but utilize modern construction techniques and materials to bring you an accurate silhouette in a sturdy, comfortable garment. Please see our Policies page for important information regarding payments, shipping, returns, and VAT/customs. DIGITAL PDF PATTERNS ARE AVAILABLE AT OUR DIGITAL PATTERN SHOP Materials for Short StaysFabric—All SizesStrength layer (coutil, twill, drill): 5/8 yd @ 60” wide | .75 yd @ 54” wide | 1 yd @ 45” wideOptional outer fashion fabric (mid-weight cotton, linen, etc.): Same as strength layer, but add 0.5 yd if you want to make self-fabric binding BoningThe pattern is designed for 1/4” wide boning. If making up the pattern as-is with no length adjustments, you will need: Straight Steels—4 @ 4.5”, 6 @ 4” | Spiral Steels—2 @ 4.5” for XS-M, 2 @ 5 " for L-XXL
---PATTERN PACK A - SIZE XS–XXL--- Includes Long and Short Stays These PDF DOWNLOAD Long and Short Stays patterns are appropriate for 1800-1830. They create a Jane Austen era silhouette with lifted bust. The long stays with front busk smooth the torso and provide more postural support. The short stays are great for petite wearers and beginner corset sewists. Both designs feature drawstring at bust and alterable straps. Short stays are unavailable in pattern pack B (plus sizing). PDF PATTERN INCLUDES: + All sizes in chosen size pack + Letter/A4 format file with Adobe-compatible size layers + A0/large format print shop file + Sewing instructions including fitting & mockup guide and supply resources + Printing instructions Redthreaded corset patterns are our own drafts based on historical diagrams and extant corsets, fitted to a modern average body block. The sewing instructions are a blend of historical and theatrical machine-sewn techniques. Made as-is, they provide a historical silhouette in a durable, machine-sewn garment. The basic shapes can also be modified by experienced costumers for a wide range of period accurate details and techniques. ****Shop our paper patterns, pattern kits, and finished corsets, get sizing guidance and find FAQs at redthreaded.com **** Due to the immediate, downloadable nature of this pattern, no returns, refunds, or exchanges will be granted once the files have been downloaded. © Redthreaded 2023
Regency style in a Spencer! The story goes that the Second Earl of Spencer was sleeping next to a fire. Hot coals rolled out and onto the tails of his coat. So he had the tails of his coat cut off and thus invented the Spencer jacket. The fashion soon ran to cut the tails off their jackets. This may be the origin of women's Spencer jackets. The ladies' Spencer jacket in the 1810s is something very different to ladies' riding costume in previous decades. There are no military or masculine elements on display. It is entirely feminine, almost an item of undress. In fact, it is not dissimilar from the top of women's gowns. Jackets of this type were very light, often functioning as a cover-up for a dress with rather diaphanous sleeves, a chilly prospect in damp and rainy England. Our easy-to-use pattern, based on extant and pictorial examples, helps you make your own lady's spencer jacket circa 1810. This is a short spencer, reaching just below the bust and closing center front with drawstrings. An inner bodice forms the bust into the proper position. Choose RH834 early 1800s stays if you need more support. Fits busts 30"- 50". All sizes in one envelope. Also included are assembly instructions, embellishment suggestions, and the extensive historical notes you've come to expect from Reconstructing History. Suggested Fabrics: silk taffeta, fine cotton (heavy cotton or linen for underbody) Notions: thread, ties, decoration to taste Yardage Requirements: 2 yards at least 54” wide
A journal following the process of making historic reproduction clothing and other unusual projects.
Isabella/Susan reporting: We've seen what a stylish British mantua-maker's apprentice might wear in the shop in the 1770s, what a femal...
As I build out my 1890s wardrobe, it became clear that the threadbare early 1800s chemise I had been using wasn't sufficient. I wanted...
Explore koshka_the_cat's 9497 photos on Flickr!
Explore koshka_the_cat's 9496 photos on Flickr!
An historical Regency"bodiced" petticoat. Basically just a sleeveless dress, made from super-soft white cotton batiste. I took my basic Regency drawstring dress pattern and lessened the gathers, lowered the neckline and narrowed the shoulder straps. I made one for my personal Regency wardrobe, but I haven't had them available in the shop until now. If you haven't yet added a petticoat to your Jane Austen ensemble - you will be surprised at how much it adds to the look of an outfit. It's now available to be ordered in your custom size in the shop!
When I made my first Regency dress, I wasn’t sure if I’d be sticking with the period for costuming so I didn’t bother making the necessary underpinnings. As a result, my outfit wa…
Even if you are not a fashion historian, you have likely seen images of the clothing people wore in the past. Whether you saw them online, or in your own family photos, the outer garments of indiv…
I know, it’s very soon to post a new topic, but I was sketching today, and found myself doing a little study of Regency stays--thinking about perhaps making myself a new set just for riding. So this is my new post. ;) I gave away my customized transitional stays (click here to see photo journal of the project) to my dear friend because frankly, it fits her better. So did my 2008 Winter Ballgown… that brat. I digress… So I started thinking about making a new set, and started looking at patterns, and I realized I hadn't done a good comprehensive post about Regency corsetry at all, and it was due time. The Regency stay is unique in historical corsetry because it is one of the very few periods where the corset was designed for something other than shaping the torso/waist. The Regency corset was a lifting device; and it was designed to present a lady’s assets on a proverbial platter. The gown was supposed to fall in a long, columnar line below the empire waistline. In my few years of pursuing projects in the period costume, I've learned a lot about making Regency pieces, so please read these tips if you haven't done any corsetry yet: An important truth you must know in corset and stay-making… boning is not meant to hold you. All boning is meant to do is to keep the fabric of the garment taut and to prevent it folding or wrinkling. The *cut* of the corset is where the shape comes from…. And in the case of the regency corset, the gusseting is key. Gussets are not fun to do, but they are crucial in shaping your ‘platter’ to suit your assets, and in setting the long stays on your hips so that the rest of the taught fabric will continue to hold you while you go about your day. How to sew a gusset (tips on a post-it). A busk is a flat, wooden stick that helps to keep the front of a corset straight, tight, and keeps your gusset cups upright and separated. It was sometimes known that gentlemen would carve and smoothen a busk, and etch his nam into it for their favourite lady so she could wear his handiwork close to her heart. How romantic. :) The busk slides into a narrow, long pocket sewn into the front of your stay. If a regency corset is made correctly to fit its wearer, you should never be so tightly trussed up that you are uncomfortable; as you would be in a corset from another period. A Regency corset should act as a really great supporting miracle-bra; and for some lucky ladies, that is all they might need. A miracle bra. So, for those of us who cannot get away with just using a miracle bra to acheive the desired Regency silhouette... here is a breakdown of the period's corsets, some sample images and some pattern recommendations. If you know of good patterns, not mentioned here, please feel free to add links in your comments. The three general categories of Regency stays: * The Short Stays * The short stay is in essence, the miracle bra of the regency period. It is small, and reasonably comfortable. Best suited for these body types: Smaller cup sizes. Not recommended for anyone above a C-cup; despite the option of going to a D on most patterns. Large breasts often push the front-closure forward, and the lack of busk or length causes the boning to angle into your chest, it can be uncomfortable, and look less than flattering. Recommend transitional or long stays for larger cup sizes. Smaller body sizes. I don't recommend this corset if you are a plus-size fit. The boning just is not compatible with any padding on the tummy. Difficulty: Easy to make as stays and corsets go. It was actually my FIRST costume project for the ORS. I was daunted at first, but once I got three layers together, I was very proud of myself to find how nicely everything sort of fell together. A beginner could pull this one off, with determination. Recommended patterns for short stays: Sense & Sensibility / Simplicity #4052 Reconstructing History (if you want to try the Kyoto Brassiere Reproduction) Boning: Minimal boning required Boning recommendation: zip ties, spiral steel. Hovering between short and transition stay is the Kyoto Museum's wrap-around brassiere. This is an unusual design, and there is a pattern available for you to try (link provided above). Kyoto Museum Regency Brassiere * The Transitional Stays * Best suited for these body types: Cup size: Medium to larger cup-sizes (C & D+) Body size: Small, medium to thicker body sizes. If you are a bit rubenesque, you might find that the boning on the front might cut a bit into your belly when you sit, and the belly might push the boning up when you sit as well as well, further pronouncing your ‘platter’. Difficulty: Definitely more involved a project, mostly because most transitional stays have tabs or are wraparound projects. A beginner could pull this one off, with determination and care, but it’s definitely a project recommended for intermediate sewers. Recommended patterns for transition stays: Past Patterns Reconstructing History Daffodown Dilly Regency Era Wrap (for the less-traditional mid-sized stays--scroll down to undergarments section). It is a brilliant design and excellent pattern. I’ve seen completed projects and it’s a wonder, and the pattern designer is accessible and always happy to assist with questions. Boning: Minimal to moderate boning, depending on your preferences. Boning recommendation: cording, caning, zip ties or spiral steel. Katherine's Costume Page Lady of Portland House's costume page Romantic History's Costume Page The Daisy wrap-around stays * The Full Stays with Busk * Best suited for these body types: Cup size: Pretty much any-sized cup with the right gusset-work and shaping. Body size: From thin to curvy this corset suits them all. The busk is a wonder for the fuller-figured, more-endowed woman. I recommend this corset to all. It’s not half as complicated to make as you think, however you can challenge yourself with it by doing some intricate cording to make it really a work of art. Here is a helpful tutorial on how to do cording from Jennie LaFleur. Difficulty:Definitely more involved a project, but easier than the wrap-arounds and the tabbed transitionals. A beginner could pull this one off. Seriously. An advanced seamstress could make it amazing. Recommended patterns for Corset: ***NEW! Laughing Moon's Regency Corded Corset The Mantua Maker Past Patterns Boning: Minimal to extensive boning/cording, depending on your preferences. Boning recommendation: cording, caning, zip ties, light steel or spiral steel. The Shift The shift plays a crucial role in tandem with any of the above undergarments. Your gusset cups will lift and cup your assets, however the shift's drawstring neckline is meant to capture and contain the upper half of your breasts; and act as a friend once said as the 'top half of the bra' so to speak. So when you are looking for shift patterns, be sure to pick one that has a drawstring neckline. Achieving a Proper Fit In order to fit your corset or stays well, you should probably read this post on fitting before you begin construction of your stays. It will help you make sure that the stays you choose are helping you achieve the proper silhouette. I hope this little post will help you decide what works best for you, and also inspires you to make your own stays, they are not as difficult as you imagine, and you can customize them to be something extraordinary if you want. Good luck, leave comments and don't hesitate to ask questions... I'd be happy to help. ;)
A Regency lady might have worn very light fabrics (old-fashioned muslin was more like voile or batiste is today) but she did wear a few layers to compensate. It was said that a regency lady’s gown should be of such light fabric, she should be able to fold it up and have it fit into her reticule. It is no surprise that in wintertime, the mode of the period caused many a Regency lady to succumb to pneumonia. Because of their penchant for light, airy fabrics, they had to make up for the opacity needed to make them presentable (except for those shocking merveilleuses; ladies known to wear very little beneath their very sheer gowns; thin muslin shift at best) with the undergarments. Les incroyables et les merveilleuses This period image is of an outlandish early-regency dandy offering money for ‘services’, mistaking this merveilleuse for a prostitute. She wards off his payment (with crossed fingers); she is dressed in the most daring of period fashions. Oh those French! Shocking! Here is another images that shows less of transparent fabrics and more of the widening of the neckline. The stays were meant to present the lady’s assets on the proverbial platter. The gowns in this image surely support this idea to its best adavtage. Of course, on the most part ladies wore decent clothing. And here is a breakdown of what you might see if you stripped away the muslin gown. The Shift: This shift is the simplest of garments. It also acts as a dress-shield, keeping (on the most part) you from sweating on your outer layers. Shifts are about knee length to mid-calf-length. Patterns: http://www.kannikskorner.com/patwomen2.htm (Woman’s Shift 1790-1820) http://sensibility.com/patterns/regency-underthings-pattern/ (Sense & Sensibility Regency Underthings Pattern) The trickiest part of this garment is the gusseted sleeve. This youtube tutorial explains it wonderfully. This is a great garment for beginners to try. The neck should be adjustable with a drawstring. You see, the shift acts like the top half of the 'bra'. The regency stays will lift and cup the lady's assets, but the stays are shallow and they risk spillage if they are not contained. The shift's drawstring neck should gather an inch or two above the edge of the gussetted cups on the stays and rein-in those wild bosoms. The shift is very important and when dressing, one must spend some time making proper adjustments so that they are doing their job and not so tight that they risk closing in the neckline so much that they peep out from under the gown. See below. Stockings: Patterns: http://www.kannikskorner.com/patwomen2.htm (Scroll down to Stockings, Pockets and Mitts) Source for finished stockings; JAS Townsend. Pantalettes Pattern: http://www.mantua-maker.com/catalog.html (Scroll down to Regency section) Quoted from Dawn Luckham of the RSA board: "When pantaloons or pantalettes first began to be worn by adult women they were worn long enough to be seen. That was the whole point. C. Willett Cunnington writes in the “History of Underclothes” that they commonly extended down the leg to just below the calf, where rows of tucks and lace and pretty detail would be applied. Also from “History of Underclothes”: “From Lady Stanley’s letter of 1817 – ‘We were insulted by the presence of (Lady) Charlotte (Lindsay) in a green silk Spencer, green silk boots, and trowsers to the ankle much below the petticoat.’” As I mentioned before, pantalettes were generally just a couple of tubes of fine fabric (not usually wide legged – just straight tubes) fastened about the waist with a ribbon. They were not without their problems: And this funny little story written by a young lady comes from 1820. “ They are the ugliest things I ever saw: I will never put them on again. I dragged my dress in the dirt for fear someone might spy them. My first dimity pair with real Swiss lace is quite useless to me for I lost one leg and did not deem it proper to pick it up, and so walked off leaving it in the street behind me, and the lace had cost six shillings a yard. I saw that mean Mrs. Spring wearing it last week as a tucker….I hope there will be a short wearing of these horrid pantalets, they are too trying. Of course I must wear them for I cannot hold up my dress and show my stockings. No one does.” A footnote to this story indicates it comes from Mrs. Earle: 'Two Centuries of Costume in America'." Read more: http://regencysa.proboards.com/ These are an interesting set of garments, and I personally am not brave enough to go commando by any means, so I tend to make myself full bloomers rather than these interesting garments. However, there are die-hards out there who are determined to be accurate (in spite of the prospect of a chilly bottom). They do make for a nice aesthetic, when a lady lifts up her layers of petticoats to reveal the cuffs of a nice pair of corded pantalettes. Very cute. The Stays: Once the lady has her undergarments on, she’ll put on her stays. Now I’ve depicted a set of full stays with a busk, but there were many styles and varieties of stays during that period, ranging from the tiny short stays to the one pictured above. Here is a detailed post on the regency stays and corsets that could help you decide which set is best suited for you. It also includes pattern links. Update: 8/26/2011: Here is a lovely little video stolen from 'Undressing the Historical Lady, performed by Miss Maggie Waterman. This is a perfect demonstration of what regency undergarments look like in person. You can learn more about Miss Waterman by clicking here: Undressing the Historical Lady. (Note, Miss Waterman's shift appears sleeveless, which is perfectly correct). The Bodiced Petticoat Though rarer than just plain stays, there was such thing as a petticoat undergown that had some boning in it that would provide support in place of a set of stays. This works best for ladies that are a B-cup or lower. I think with a C-cup or more, you should probably think about getting a set of stays. However, bodiced petticoats also served another purpose when not boned. They also could serve as a means to smooth out all the lumps and bumps of your undergarments and stays. There are lots of ways to make one of these. The Ravenrook’s Mode Bagatelle pattern provides a pattern for it—however you can easily take the pattern of your gown bodice and modify it to create a bodiced petticoat. Widen the neckline, of course, and make it sleeveless, add some soft (minmal) boning for structure, and you’re good to go. Instructions on how to make a bodiced petticoat from a gown pattern. Pattern: http://www.ravenrook.com/clothier/bagatelle/regency.jsp (Mode Bagatelle) I’ve also seen people add a skirt to their short stays to create a bodiced petticoat. Check out Katherine’s bodiced petticoat, shift and pantalettes here: http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/regency_underthings.html The high-waisted simple petticoat: In the movie below you see Katherine wearing this. It is a regency skirt on a waistband with two arm straps. The pattern for which you can either take from a commercial pattern or you can 'McGuyver' one using some creative thinking. You can follow the basic directions for a round-gown (see my personal post on Regency Drop-front/bib-front gowns) and sew it onto a waist-band you’ve sized to your empire waist. Add straps and voila. It will add volume and shape to your gowns, in addition to some lovely layers. I suggest 3.5 - 4 yards of fabric if not less. It should come to the line just above your ankles. Dressing: Katherine, costuming maven extraordinaire has made a delightful movie of how to put on a drop-front gown. What makes this video relevant here is that you can see her in her regency undergarments, including the high-waisted petticoat. There you have it. Your regency underthings explained (for ladies, of course). Next post by me will be the men’s underthings explained. :)
The Sunday night before Halloween, I decided I needed a new dress to wear at work on our Halloween, which was Thursday. Nothing in my adm...
Gentle Readers, Marjorie Gilbert, author of The Return, made an empire gown from a Janet Arnold pattern and featured it on her website. She graciously answered some of my questions about the proces…
