THIS CLASS WILL MEET on four Wednesday mornings from 10 am- 12 pm:June 14th, June 28th, July 12th and July 26th Note the 2 weeks between classes so that you have time to work on your project before next instruction!   Class price includes: 4 In-person instructor guided sessions using the Pattern From Ravelry: il grande favorito, Written by: Isabell Kraemer . Images by © grasflecken 2013 Comfy and oversized, this is the ultimate everyday sweater!  Raglan-sleeved, and knit with no seams.  You will learn how to knit from the top down and the different tips to make sure the sweater fits perfect and looks great!  Plus how to weave ends and block (finishing). Must use Jennifer Knits yarn (not included) for at least 1/2 of any project. Please come in prior to class for yarn and any supplies! Cost of pattern included in fees, if you already have the pattern we will give you a $10 store credit. Space is limited, register as soon as possible. If you have questions feel free to email:Instructor Wendy Diamond at: [email protected]'s team at: [email protected] Classes are non-refundable but are transferable to someone of your choosing. If you cannot attend the class, then we need 7 days notice in order for you to cancel, in which case you will receive a "store credit" at Jennifer Knits for the amount you paid. The credit may be used towards merchandise or another "Wendy" class or private lesson at Jennifer Knits.

Looking for cyanotype ideas to try? Get inspired by cyanotype art and clever craft techniques with Gathered.

Free Easy Knit Top Pattern For WomenWe love the simplicity and style of this short sleeve knit sweater that's a fashionable essential for spring and summer. It's a polished looking garment in Red Heart Fashion Soft, so simply find your color from the available selection, or take the guesswork out and go with the designed version. It's perfect for chilly offices, as well as breezy nights under the stars.Material NotesEverything you need to make your new project is included in this kit! Time to get stitching, and don’t forget to share your progress!

Get ready for event season with this simple, yet elegant new free sewing pattern, the Marilla Top, featuring spaghetti straps and a peplum!

How to Avoid the Summer Slide! Summer is right around the corner! We all LOVE our summer vacation, but not the "Summer Slide!" According to Oxford

Willy Wonka, a sweet and innocent pup, experienced a frightening encounter with neighboring dogs that left him without his ears.

Beat the heat, or layer up for fall with the Evanthe Crop Top, an off-the-shoulder, ruffly crop top ideal for transitional wear!

Check out our top picks for fashion and clothes ESL activities and games, along with lesson plans, worksheets and vocabulary lists.

SIMPLE EYELET SWEATER CROCHET PATTERN ***This listing is for the PDF PATTERN ONLY and will be available to download on Etsy after purchase *** ***Pattern written in English only*** This ad-free, printable PDF is also available for free on my blog: http://www.hookedonhomemadehappiness.com/simple-crochet-sweater-pattern/ For this Simple Eyelet Sweater Crochet Pattern, there is a full video tutorial! The front of the sweater is a solid piece, made with all double crochet. The back has the open, see through look that is just so cute! I like to wear it with a brightly color tank top. Even just a sports bra would be adorable! MATERIALS-- WeCrochet Swish Worsted in Wonderland Heather (9skeins/990yds for S, 10skeins/1,100yds for M, 11skeins/1,210yds for L, 12skeins/1,320yds for XL, 13skeins/1,430yds for 2X, 14skeins/1,540 yds for 3X) H/5.0 mm hook yarn needle scissors stitch markers LEVEL-- intermediate FINISHED SIZES (approx.)-- Bust: S (34”) M (38”) L (42”) XL (46”) 2X (50”) 3X (54”) Length: S (19”) M (19”) L (21.75”) XL (21.75”) 2X (24.5”) 3X (24.5”) Armhole Depth: S (6.5”) M (7”) L (7.5”) XL (8”) 2X (8.5”) 3X (9”) Sleeve Length (from round 1 of sleeve): S (16.5”) M (17”) L (17.5”) XL (18”) 2X (18.5”) 3X (19”) Size S pictured. I’m 5’0” with 34” bust. Written in US standard terms **If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me** You may not sell, claim my patterns as your own, make translations or video tutorials of my patterns. You may sell finished products made from my patterns, but please link back to the post and give credit for the pattern.

Sewing facings give the finishing touch to necklines & armholes. Learn how to sew a facing with this easy step by step tutorial.

After the joy of participating in my first swap I couldn't help joining in when The Strawberry Swap opened up on Instagram. I mean, strawberries! What's not to love! As part of my gift for this swap I drafted a large scrappy strawberry block (shown below) to use on a cushion and I thought it would be fun to share how I made it. The best part about this block is it uses scraps! The pinks (or reds) can be cut from any number of different fabrics (I used 5). For the calyx (green bit) I used three different green fabrics (A, B, and C) to create the definition of the different leaves and stem. The block finishes at 7.5 in by 10.5 in. Cutting: PINK GREEN WHITE 17 x 2in squares 3 x 2.5in squares 2 x 2.5in squares from print A 2 x 2.5in squares from print B 2 x 2in squares from print C 4 x 2in squares 5 x 2.5in squares Assembly: Our first job is to turn the 2.5 in squares into half square triangles (HST). Take the 5 white 2.5 in squares and one of the Green Print A 2.5 in squares and draw a diagonal line across each square from one corner to the opposite one. Pair the marked squares with the unmarked ones. NOTE: the marked Green Print A square should be paired with a Green Print B square. Sew the squares together a scant quarter inch from your guide line. When you reach the end turn the square around and sew a scant quarter inch from the guideline on the other side. You should have two seam lines each a scant quarter inch from the guide line. Cut along the guide line, dividing your square into two triangles each with a seam. Press. I like to press my seams open as it keeps everything lying flat and keeps the seams from getting too bulky. It's likely that your HST will be a little large so trim them down to 2 in square. Line up the 45 degree line on your ruler with the diagonal line of the HST and trim two of the edges. Rotate the HST 180 degrees making sure to line up the already trimmed edges with the 2 inch line on the ruler. Trim the remaining two edges. You should end up with 12 HST. Arrange all 2 in squares and HST as shown in the picture below. Assemble the block using a quarter inch seam. First sew the squares into rows and press the seams. Then sew the rows together matching the seams in each row to create the final block. Press seams. And you're done! If you have any questions please feel free to ask in the comments and I will answer there. If you do make a strawberry I'd love to see it. Leave a link to your finished block in the comments or if you post to Instagram tag me @skyberries. Enjoy!

The Wandflower Blouse free sewing pattern features a simple, camisole-like silhouette with a gathered tie detail that's flattering for all.

There is a mistake in the charted pattern in the annual - round 21, stitch 15 should be FC38. Roosty is a boxy cropped Fair Isle tank top that incorporates Shetland techniques and motifs, finished with clean twisted ribs and tubular cast-offs. I don’t often work with blues, but combining these sea shades of Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper Weight with sharp orange tones reminded me of rusting (roosty!) metals in the sea. You’ll enjoy an authentic Shetland experience while knitting this piece. Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) 29.5 (35.5, 41.25,47.25, 53.25, 59) The model has a bust of 81cm and is wearing a size 2. Techniques Knitting in the round, decreasing, picking up and knitting, colourwork, steeks, three needle cast off, tubular cast off, grafting. Materials Jamieson & Smith 2ply Jumper Weight: 100% Pure Shetland Wool; 115m/25g ball Yarn A: FC41 x 5 (5, 6, 8, 9, 10) balls Yarn B: FC39: 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5) balls Yarn C: FC38: 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 3) balls Yarn D: 1280: 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls Yarn E: 1281: 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls  2.5mm circular needles or long DPN’s for ribbing  3.5mm circular needles or long DPN’s, or size needed to match tension  Stitch holders  Waste yarn  Stitch markers  Tapestry needle  Spare 2.5mm circular needle Tension 32 sts and 32 rows over 10cm in colourwork using 3.5mm needles, after blocking. Please check your tension and adjust your needle size accordingly. Pattern Notes Tank top is knit in the round from the bottom up using steeks at the arm and neck holes. The steeks are knit in a stripe pattern. which is used as a guide during finishing. When the garment is complete, cast off steeks, then work one row of crochet either side of the middle steek stitch. Carefully cut through the centre stitch of each steek to finish. A tubular cast off is used for stretchy neck and armholes.

Although it's not sweater weather quite yet, it is the perfect time to start transitioning your wardrobe. Mood Fabrics' short sleeve Florence Twin Set, our

Based on a look from Helen Castillo's Fall 2022 Collection in collaboration with Mood Fabrics, the Cerise Corset sewing pattern is gorgeously flattering and

free online sewing classes for beginners, free online basic sewing classes, videos free online sewing patterns, free online quilting classes, learn to sew

It’s Cooks Week here on the Purl Bee, the time to share great sewing patterns…

Fichier numérique L'Evermore est un pull col V tricoté en jersey ainsi que quelques points dentelle de haut en bas. Le pull a une finition i-cord sur tous les bords. Disponible en anglais, français, allemand et néerlandais. Difficulté ▲ ▲ ▲ △△ Aisance positive de 10 à 15 cm intégrée au motif. Tailles XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Mesurez-vous avant de commencer. (10 à 15 cm d'aisance positive sont intégrés au motif). FINI Taille du buste XS 34", S 38", M 42", L 46" , XL 51", XXL 55" (86, 96, 106, 116, 130, 140 cm) après blocage. Jauge 12 mailles et 18 rangs = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm) avec des aiguilles de 6,5 mm En jersey. Fil XS 250, S 300, M 325, L 350, XL 425, XXL 500 grammes de Brushmere Cardiff Cashmere couleur 104. (25 grammes = 45 mètres /49 yards) Aiguilles Aiguilles à tricoter doubles pointes et circulaires US 10,5 / 6,5 mm 80 cm / 32”. Le modèle est destiné à un usage individuel uniquement. Merci bien pour votre soutien. Instagram @caidree #caidree #knitwithcaidree #evermoresweater

The Willow Sweater is a FREE crochet pattern by Evelynandpeter! It is worked from the top down for seamless crochet raglan sweater!

This tank top is inspired by a handmade crochet vest from the 1970s. We have adjusted the fit but used the same construction as the original item, a pattern of interlocking crocheted loops.  Boxy fit 100% cotton Made in Peru Dry clean only View all knitwear All wear, mending, and idiosyncrasies are unique to the custom

My last lookbook kinda blew up so I was eager to get started on the rest. This one was definitely much harder but I tried to get it as accurate as possible. The top image is for a more upper class fa…

While in Palm Springs teaching at Heather Ross's workshop last week, I took advantage of a few quiet moments to whip up a top! This is Heather's own Briar Rose strawberry print in a jersey knit. It's a stable knit, kind of like an interlock, so I decided to experiment with using it in place of a woven. I used the Portrait Blouse pattern that's included in my book. Wow, that was a few hairstyles ago. In the book, the top is made in a silk charmeuse. I found that I could easily replace that with a stable knit. The best part? No side zipper required! The knit makes it stretchy enough to get over one's body. I changed the neckline slightly by making it lower and a bit more U-shaped. I finished the neckline with a 1/2" binding rather than the facing that's included with the pattern. Pretty much everything else about the construction was exactly the same as detailed in the book. The only exception is that I used a very narrow zigzag stitch (.5 mm wide) on the sleeve and lower hems to allow the fabric to stretch. I kept the bust darts and waistline dart tucks for shaping. All in all, it makes a great casual top sewn in a knit. Perfect for layering under cardigans and such. Give it a try on nice firm knit--nothing too slinky or unstable like a single jersey.

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Let your imagination go wild with Suzie—a simple pattern with a lot of potential. Just learning to sew? This top is a great place to start. We give four models and instructions, but that doesn't stop you from being a bit daring and trying your own styles. Have fun with colors, designs, and fabrics. The possibilities are endless. Wear this tank top with skirts, pants, or shorts. Suzie goes with anything you have! For PDF format: Sewing Guide + A0 + A4/US Letter

Finding great transitional items can sometimes be tricky. Enter The Wisteria, our latest free shirt sewing pattern! The perfect high fashion yet comfy linen shirt to get you through the transitional season! Pair it with palazzo pants and heels for a sophisticated look or dress it down with your favorite pair of shorts to make you the most stylish garden party guest! No matter what the temperature you are sure to be on the chic list!

FREE DOWNLOAD by Linda Reynolds Learn the techniques used by the top fashion design houses for applying some of the more commonly used couture finishes in garment sewing. You'll find information and how-tos on:

Every year, we design the zodiac animal for that year and share the free pattern with everyone. My husband, Ryan, does an initial sketch and then we bring that sketch to life with our yarn and crochet hooks.

Freshen up your home with these super-simple diy cloth napkins. See how to make cloth napkins - I find these 2 easy ways the best!

Learn How to Draft a Cap Sleeve over any garment or Sewing Pattern that has a regular Sleeve. This easy tutorial will completely change the look of your Top

Learn how to understitch to make your handmade clothing look better and last longer. The lining or facing will never peak out again!

Are you ready to create your own bustier pattern? Look no further, because I've got you covered! In this tutorial, I will show you how to create your own basic bustier pattern or download my free printable PDF pattern in 6 sizes and hack it into 8 different styles, including a bustier with cups, milkmaid top, bustier with sleeves or without sleeves, bustier dress, and more. This tutorial is perfect for beginners, and I will guide you step-by-step on how to resize the pattern and add perfect sleeves. With this video, you can easily create your own custom-made bustier that fits you perfectly! But wait, there's more! Not only will you get access to my free PDF pattern, but you can also share it with your sewing friends. It's easy to download and print, and you can start creating your own bustier right away. So, don't hesitate to watch the whole video and start creating your own unique bustier pattern. And if you like this video, please give it a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel. In my next video, I will show you how to sew a perfect bustier dress using my PDF pattern. Stay tuned! How to make bustier top or dress pattern in easy way and free printable beginner friendly bustier top pattern Check out my website, where you can find a variety of free PDF patterns for sewing and hacking. Whether you are looking for a new dress, a cozy sweater, or a stylish accessory, you will find something that suits your taste and skill level. You can also learn how to sew with these patterns or how to hack them to create your own unique designs. All you need to do is click the link and download your favourite patterns. Then, follow the step-by-step tutorial and enjoy the process of creating something beautiful. I hope you have fun and feel free to share your creations with me! How to make bustier top pattern Free printable sewing pattern Bustier top or dress CLICK! Easy way to make bustier top pattern , free printable sewing pattern free sweetheart bustier top pattern printable pdf ! pattern hacking to bustier with cups free sewing patterns

I thought I would share with you the best yin yoga classes from May of 2019

I've been up to my neck in taxes today, so thought what better way to relax than write up my crochet blog. Well. 96 tiny granny squares later, assembling and finishing completed, the waistcoat I mentioned in this earlier post is finished and it's certainly been a labour of love. Didn't quite get it finished for Christmas, but pretty close! Ooh, have to say I've really been enjoying working with all this lovely colour.... And seeing how the little squares improve after a touch of blocking NEVER ceases to amaze me! (I told you I should get out more) At times our lounge looked like a (very cosy) production line. Piles of completed and blocked squares on the tray with the next batch of 10 underway, each one sitting on top of the colour which will be the next round. Another batch pinned and sprayed and drying in front of the fire... with Lucky the cat overseeing to make sure I was doing it all properly (think he got a bit bored though). I mentioned in my earlier post that I was very much inspired by Amanda's beautiful waistcoat in her Amjaylou blog.I don't think I would even have attempted to make my own if I had not seen hers! I even copied Amanda's choice of yarn (the gorgeous Drops Baby Merino) but with different colours. But when I experimented with the actual granny square pattern, I found I very much liked the look of the small, tight dinky square that you get when you leave out all the chain spaces. I especially loved the look of it for a man's garment. The only issue with this is that because the squares were that bit smaller, in terms of the actual assembly of the waistcoat and the finishing details, I pretty much had to do my own thing. Also I didn't use Amanda's join-as-you-go method. I couldn't really join-them-as-I-went, as I knew the size of the squares would mean a different assembly, so I just made them all first and joined afterwards. I'll put some notes at the end of this post explaining exactly what I did, in case anyone is interested! Oh....and that issue of the shoulder seam. Aaaargh!!! As Amanda pointed out, the front panels of Paul's waistcoat were 3 squares wide, and they seemed somehow to be joined to only 2 squares at the back. I too could not work out how this was done, though I spent a good few hours trying..... ah well. 2-square-wide front panels it is. Life's too short to worry about exact copies, that's what I say. Anyway, the ta-dah moment. Here it is in all its glory, as modelled by my wonderful son Joseph. He has some style, do you agree? And what's more, he loves it and thinks it's the coolest thing- and that's what makes it all worthwhile for me! That cat always seems to want to get in on the action... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------PATTERN AND ASSEMBLY NOTES So, here are some notes on my version of the waistcoat. The 'man's version', if you like :-) 1. Make 96 x 5-round granny squares, using 4-ply (fingering) yarn and a 2.5mm hook. There's some info on the yarn and my colour choices in my earlier post. Start with 4 ch joined in a ring, and NOTE: do not use any chain spaces, ANYWHERE in the coloured rounds, not even in the corners! In the final grey round of each square, put 2 ch in each corner. 2. Join the squares thus. The back panel is 6 squares wide by 8 squares long, the 2 front panels are each 2 squares wide and 8 squares long. The side panels are each 2 wide by 4 long. This pic might help to see how it's constructed more clearly: As already mentioned I used whipstitch (both loops) to join. Basically put 2 squares together with the right sides facing outwards, start at the top right hand corner, and away you go. I find the simplest way to do it is to sew long strips of squares, and then sew the strips together. 3. Armholes: I finished these off using Amanda's method- ie, dc (UK term) into each stitch around, with 2 x tr2tog (UK term) into each right angle where 3 squares meet. 4. Ribbed border: I did mine slightly narrower than Amanda's (as the waistcoat was already an extra square long, I didn't want to add too much to the length). Also, I tried several different methods for the actual rib until I found one that worked with my waistcoat, and this is basically what I did: -Using a hook one size larger (I used 3mm), starting at the bottom left hand side as you are looking at the waistcoat, join with a sl st into the 2 ch corner space. -Chain for the number of stitches to get the width that you want the ribbed border to be (in my case 5), plus one extra. -dc (UK term) into the 2nd ch from hook and into the remaining 4 ch. -When you reach the square, sl st into the NEXT 2 trs along. Turn. DO NOT CH 1. -dc along the row of 5 dcs that you just made, but in the middle 3 stitches, go into the BACK LOOP only. Going into the back loop is what creates the ridged effect. (If you like you can go into the back loop of ALL the stitches, but I found it gave a neater edge to do the first and last stitches as normal, and also makes them easier to 'find' when you're beginning and ending a row!) -ch 1 (does not count as stitch), turn, and dc into each of the 5 dcs from the previous row, going into the back loop of the middle 3, as before. -Simply repeat the last 3 steps until you get round to the other side! Here's my edge in more detail... 5. Front edging and button holes: Because my squares are smaller, I had to make this bit slightly wider so the waistcoat would button up properly. Row 1: Return to your 2.5mm hook. Starting at the bottom of the left hand side (as you are looking at the waistcoat), make a standing tr (UK term) into the first dc of the border and then into each of the remaining 4 dcs. Tr into the corner ch 2 of the square, and into each tr and corner space around. You can add an extra tr 2tog at each point where a square joins another square (as I did) if you find it's pulling a bit and not sitting properly. Tie off and cut yarn. Row 2 (a): Make a standing tr at the same place as before (bottom of left hand side as you're looking at it)- into your last standing tr. This side is where your buttons will be (seeing as it's a man's garment!). Tr all the way up until you get past where the 3rd and 4th squares join, then tr into the first tr of the first cluster of 3 trs. Then make 2 htrs, 2dcs and a sl st. Finish off. Row 2 (b): Right hand side- this is where your button holes will be. Join with a sl st into the corresponding stitch opposite the sl st you just did. Make 2 dcs, 2 htrs and 1 tr. Now for your button hole: ch 3, skip 3 stitches, then tr all the way down making buttonholes in a similar way where each square joins another square. There are 4 buttons on my version. Fasten off. Another close-up might help! Sew the buttons on, and you're done! Hurrah!!