In both the Auto Knitter handbook and the LeGare handbook, you will see a strange circular drawing. There's a lot of information on these little buggers. Here's the one found in the AK book: Here's the LeGare figure: There are two differences in the sketches. The LeGare shows to pull more needles out of work for the toes. The LeGare shows to work the toe on the back of the cylinder. The only problem I see with doing that is that you get your seam on the bottom of the foot rather than on the top.If you ever get an unmarked cylinder, you can use these as a guide to where you will put your marks. The other nice thing about these diagrams is that they show you where the sweet spot is located to hang your heel weights. Look inside the circle near the bottom. You will see a small "a" and "b". They're shown to be placed between needles the second and third needles on either side of the heel/toe. For what it's worth, I like to put another heel weight between these two points.
If you have a link to contribute, please send it to [email protected]. Thanks!! Basic Factory Settings - Part 1 - The Cylinder Assembly by Steve (the Wizard of BC on Ravelry) Basic Factory Settings - Part 2- The Ribber Assembly by Steve (the Wizard of BC on Ravelry) 2-Row Hung Hem by Steve Ashton Machine
Socks the Old Way on a CSM: The CSM, or circular sock machine is a knitting machine that knits in the round. You can make socks, scarves, hats and mittens. In fact with a lot of practice you can make flat pieces that can be grafted together to make sweaters and such. Though it…
I have a gift for you. Since so many of you have been admiring my Shorty Heel Tab Socks that I make on my circular sock machine, I wanted to be sure you could make them as well! I truly love these socks and would wear them exclusively if I had enough pairs! It is a handknit pattern that I adapted to be identical to the method that I use to make them on the sock machine. It took some reverse engineering, and we did it! The sock begins with a folded over cuff that includes a short row heel tab, and instructions for making a short row heel & toe are also a part of the sock as I wanted to translate as literally as I could the method of making these socks on my machine. It finishes by using the kitchener stitch to graft the top of the sock together where the instep meets in the toe. Of course you're welcome to make whichever heel & toe you prefer, using this pattern as a guideline for specifications. LINK TO PDF TEXT ONLY LINK TO PDF WITH PICS AND QR CODES __________________________________________________________ Shorty Heel Tab Socks by Larissa Gregorin Copyright Larissa Gregorin 2022 Finished Circumference: (6 ¼, 6 ¾, 7 ½)” / (16, 17, 19.5) cm foot circumference; intended to be worn with 1½” / 4 cm negative ease. Adjustable foot length. Yarn: Sock yarn [415 yards / 380 meters per 100 g] Yardage: 1 skein (all sizes) Gauge: 38 stitches and 48 rounds = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette stitch Needles: US 0 / 2.0 mm circular needle (32” / 80 cm for magic looping) or preferred needle length for small diameter knitting; adjust needle size to match listed gauge. Notions: 2 unique stitch markers for BOR and side, removable stitch marker to measure foot length, darning needle for grafting & weaving in ends, scrap yarn for provisional cast-on (optional). Techniques: Flat and circular knitting, short rows using the German Short Row method, Kitchener stitch. Pattern Notes: Sock is cast on at the lower edge of the cuff, which is then worked with short-row shaping to create a heel tab before folding the cuff & joining live stitches to the cast-on edge to create a fold-over hem. Short-row shaping is also used for the heel and toe. Cuff Cast on (60, 64, 72) stitches either provisionally or using a reasonably stretchy cast-on such as the long tail method. If working a provisional cast-on, use a color that contrasts well with your sock yarn. Place marker for BOR & join to knit in the round. Knit (30, 32, 36) stitches and place halfway marker. Knit for 10 total rows, not including the provisional cast-on. Note: If you cast on directly, you can count your cast-on row as row 1. Heel Tab Row 1 [RS]: Knit until 3 stitches before halfway marker. Turn. Row 2 [WS]: Make double stitch and purl until 3 stitches before BOR marker. Turn. Row 3 [RS]: Make double stitch and knit until, but not including, next double stitch. Turn. Row 4 [WS]: Make double stitch and purl until, but not including, next double stitch. Turn. Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 3-4 two more times. Row 9 [RS]: Make double stitch and knit to next double stitch. Do not turn. knit into both loops of one double stitch. Turn. Row 10 [WS]: Slip 1, purl up to the next double stitch. Purl into both loops of one double stitch. Turn. Row 11 [RS]: Slip 1, knit up to the next double stitch. Knit into both loops of one double stitch. Turn. Repeat Rows 10-11 two more times, and Row 10 once more. You will still have one double stitch on either side. Next Round: Slip 1, knit in the round, knitting into both loops of each double stitch as you come to them. Knit 9 more rounds. Fold Over Hem On the next round, knit each stitch together with a purl bump from the cast-on/first round of sock yarn. Knit for 10 rounds. Heel Row 1 [RS]: Knit to (2, 3, 4) stitches past halfway marker. Turn. Row 2 [WS]: Make double stitch. Purl until (2, 3, 4) stitches past the BOR marker. Turn. Row 3 [RS]: Make double stitch. Knit until, but not including, next double stitch. Turn. Row 4 [WS]: Make double stitch. Purl until, but not including, next double stitch. Turn. Repeat Rows 3-4 until (10, 12, 14) stitches remain in the center. On the final RS row, DO NOT turn. Knit into TWO double stitches, remembering to knit into both loops of each double stitch. Turn. Row 5 [WS]: Slip 1 stitch, purl until the next double stitch. Purl into TWO double stitches, remembering to purl into both loops of each double stitch. Turn. Row 6 [RS]: Slip 1, knit until next double stitch. Knit one double stitch. Turn. Row 7 [WS]: Slip 1, purl until next double stitch. Purl one double stitch. Turn. Repeat Rows 6-7 until 1 set of double stitches remain, ending after working a purl row. Next Row [RS]: Slip 1, knit up to double stitch; slip this stitch from the left to the right needle with yarn in the back, making sure to include all strands. Turn. Next Row [WS]: Yarn over, purl the double stitch, then purl across to the next double stitch. Slip this stitch from the left to the right needle with yarn in front, making sure to include all strands. Turn. Next Row [RS]: Yarn over, knit double stitch, knit to BOR. These yarnovers will be knit together with the first stitch on either side of the heel stitches to close the little gap that occurs in that space. It will want to sit very close to the last double stitch, so take care to knit it together with the first instep stitch. Foot Next Round: Knitting all stitches, knit together the first yarnover with the (3rd, 4th, 5th) stitch past the midway marker and the second yarnover with the (3rd, 4th, 5th) stitch before BOR. See video above. Now is a good time to place a progress keeper to track rows or measure length for the foot. Knit in the round until you are ready to start the toe, approximately 2” / 5 cm less than the desired foot length. Toe Row 1 [RS]: Knit to halfway marker. Turn. Row 2 [WS]: Make double stitch. Purl until BOR marker. Turn. Row 3 [RS]: Make double stitch. Knit up to double stitch. Turn. Row 4 [WS]: Make double stitch. Purl up to double stitch. Turn. Repeat Rows 3-4 until (10, 12, 14) stitches remain in the center. On the final RS row, DO NOT turn. Knit into TWO double stitches, remembering to knit into both loops of each double stitch. Turn. Row 5 [WS]: Slip 1 stitch, purl until the next double stitch. Purl into TWO double stitches, remembering to purl into both loops of each double stitch. Turn. Row 6 [RS]: Slip 1, knit until next double stitch. Knit one double stitch. Turn. Row 7 [WS]: Slip 1, purl until next double stitch. Purl one double stitch. Turn. Repeat Rows 6-7 until all double stitches have been knit, ending after working a purl row. You should be at the BOR. Kitchener Snip a yard/meter-long tail to use for kitchener. If you have them, I suggest transferring your stitches onto two small DPNs (I use size US 00/1.75mm). Pick up an extra stitch in the same row as the front needle stitches on either side of the live stitches. Do the same on the back needle stitches. Using a darning needle and your yarn tail, go into the first stitch on your first needle knitwise & slip off the needle. Go into the next stitch on the first needle purlwise. Go into the first stitch on the rear needle purlwise & slip off the needle. Go into the next stitch on the rear needle knitwise. Continue in the regular kitchener pattern (k1 front, off//p1 front//p1 back off//k1 back) until two stitches remain on each needle. Knit into the front needle’s first stitch, and immediately purl into the next stitch on the front needle. Slip them both off. Purl into the back needle's first stitch, and immediately knit into the next stitch. Slip them both off. Thread the tail to the inside of the sock. Weave in ends. Enjoy. Abbreviations & Stitch Glossary BOR - beginning of round double stitch (German Short Rows) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrMHUlqWH2o Making a double stitch: knit, turn, slip from left to right, pull yarn up and over right needle Making a double stitch: purl, turn, slip from left to right, pull yarn up and over right needle k - knit kitchener - https://youtu.be/W7i5JwEReW0?t=100 p - purl RS - right side, the visible side of the garment when worn slip - holding yarn to WS, slip next stitch as if to purl WS - wrong side, the inside of garment when worn yarnover - wrap working yarn around the right-hand needle counterclockwise
This is a line drawing of a TRU-KNIT Circular Sock Machine (CSM). You are purchasing a downloadable zip file containing machine embroidery files in 3 sizes (small - 5", med - 6", and large - 7.25"). Three formats are included (PES, EXP VIP). There are 2 versions of each size - one with the "TRU-KNIT" lettering and one without. Contact me if you need a different format. Copyright Mancuso Consulting and Design 2024. These files are intended for PERSONAL USE ONLY and cannot be reproduced in any form and may not be used for production of products for resale. Contact me for licensing options for production use.
During WW I, the war to end all wars, families in rural Canada were given circular sock knitting machines and 10 lbs of wool (enough for 30 pairs of socks) to knit socks for the war effort. Socks were in short supply, wool was rationed and service men in the trenches in winter, needed wool ... Read More about Sock Knitting and the Great War Effort
In both the Auto Knitter handbook and the LeGare handbook, you will see a strange circular drawing. There's a lot of information on these li...
I caught up with Shelly Hatton at Maker Faire Austin, where she was demonstrating antique circular sock knitting machines! Download the MP4 Video or HD
This item is for the pattern only. Make your own goose using a circular knitting machine. You will need a 46 or 48 circular knitting machine and a 22 pin circular knitting machine. The pattern does not include instructions on how to use the knitting machines. You should have experience with your machine. Techniques used include: casting on and off, color changing, using waste yarn and mattress stitching.
OH Yes, I love Mini Things. I couldn’t resist when I saw this pin on pinterest to see if I could make one. I took a look at the Ravelry pattern (below), and it was done on a flat bed machine,…
by Parra Sock Wave Crew Socksby Parra Sock Wave Crew Socks in Off White. Cut to crew length with ribbed cuffs, these by Parra socks are designed with a jacquard knit wave pattern. Finished in a shade of white with reinforced toe box stitching and with embroidered Parra branding.Founded by Dutch designer and skater Pieter Janssen, by Parra is a creative, expressive and unfiltered brand recognised for their abstract artistry and admiration for ‘90s rave culture. Supported by collaborations with brands including Nike SB and Converse, by Parra is a visionary label known also for their ties to sibling brand Tired Skateboards.Product Details63% Cotton, 27% Acrylic, 9% Polyester, 1% SpandexRibbed UppersJacquard Knit PatternEmbroidered LogoCrew Length
Lupine is a vibrant speckled colorway from Bad Sheep Yarn's Alaska 2020 collection. It has all the vibrant purples, pinks, sunny yellow, brilliant blues, and grasshopper green speckles.You can find all the fiber information and yardage below under the Yarn Weights and Sizes dropdown below.
By Amelia © May 27, 2010 A question from a reader of this blog ... My question is: I have recently purchased a Legare 47 and need to know if it is only possible to make a selvedge "cast-on" at top of sock in 1 x 1 rib, or can it be done with 3 x 1 or others? For me it has only worked using the 72 cylinder and doing 1 x 1 rib. Won't work with 54 cylinder. Any ideas? Thanks for asking ... it's nice to do a sock machine post, as I was recently knitting on mine and even playing with selvedges. I'm going to assume you have a 72-slot cylinder, a 54-slot cylinder, and a 36-slot ribber. This gives you a few options... First one ... if you want to do a 3/1 top edge, you could put a needle in every cylinder slot, without the ribber on yet, and use an e-wrap to make a selvedge. You wrap every needle from where you would start to knit with an "e" of the yarn you plan to knit with (pull along tail through so you can get all the way around with it), counterclockwise around the cylinder, in the same order the needles will knit. Then, knit one row. This makes a selvedge that won't unravel. At this point you can put the ribber in and transfer stitches from cylinder needles (removing them!!) and onto ribber needles as you like. I admit, this selvedge is fiddly -- the number of times I have dropped a stitch in that first ribber row, I hesitate to count. I've been very pleased in the reliability of my NZAK to not drop ribber stitches, so I can use this selvedge when I want to. It has the virtue of working no matter what ribbing I want -- 3/1, 2/1, 1/1, or mock rib. Second one ... a mock rib hemmed selvedge. For this, you leave out every n-th needle. For a 3/1 mock rib, it's every 4th needle. And, you just start knitting with your real yarn once you have your waste yarn knitting cleanly. Once you have 10-40 rows (how many defines the depth of your hemmed top), you pick up the first knit row's stitches and put them around the needles with the current row, so the first row is knit into the next round of knitting. Third one ... there's a great selvedge you can do with a 36-slot ribber and 54-slot cylinder. If you use only every other slot in the ribber, you can set up for a 2/1 ribbing. Once this knits cleanly with the waste yarn, attach your sock yarn and continue like so: Knit one row with the sock yarn. Lift the first cylinder needle of each pair all the way around (well, as around as you can ... just be sure to continue with this step as you start the next one...). Knit two complete rows with that first-of-each-pair needle not knitting. Yes, this puts a bar of yarn in front of it each time. Now lower the out-of-work needles, carefully, so their latches are open and above the bars, and knit the next round. Whew! This is actually a fairly easy selvedge, and my favorite for 52-cylinder socks and mittens. You mentioned the 1/1 ribbing; you could, if you want a 3/1 sock on the 72, use 1/1 ribbing just for 3-4 rows and then convert over to 3/1 ribbing for the rest of the leg. There have been other selvedges I've played with -- e-wrap on cylinder needles, then starting ribbing needles by picking up the bar from the row below (not easy!); and a variety of sewn selvedges after taking the sock off the machine -- but I'm going to guess you're looking for a cranked selvedge, not a hand-done selvedge. So go ahead, experiment -- try out a variety of selvedges, knit short tubes, and see if they hold or let stitches run. I've been happiest with 1/1, 2/1, and mock rib hemmed-top socks, all of them pretty deep -- I'll do 25 rows of ribbing, and 40 rows before hanging the hem of a mock rib. I used to only do 5-10 rows, but it doesn't make a deep enough ribbing to hold the sock up well. 3/1 topped socks haven't stayed up that well for me, so I don't tend to use it at the top edge of a sock. The socks up at the top have a 1/1 top, 3/1 leg and foot; they are tiny ... knit on my NZAK's compound cylinder :-). ~~~~ Related posts: Sock machines: hem or ribbed top? Sock machines: How do you put a selvedge on a 3/1 sock? Sock Machines: Can you use a 36-slot ribber with a 54-slot cylinder? ~~~~ © May 27, 2010 by Ask The Bellwether, posted at http://askthebellwether.com/blog
Just finished these 4 cute pumpkins on my sentro 48 pin! I did 50 rows, doubled like a toque, stuffed with polyfil and cinched both ends. Then added a faux leather stem. I thought about adding a...
Barnyard Chicken PDF digital download -PATTERN ONLY- for the Sentro or Addi Express Circular Knitting Machine. 48/46 pin machine needed. This snuggable chicken is sure to brighten your day and is the perfect size for small hands to cuddle. Skills needed: -knowledge of how to cast on/off a circular knitting machine -basic crochet stitches -basic embroidery I would consider this a beginner friendly pattern *** THIS LISTING IS FOR THE PATTERN ONLY***
