Set of (2) vintage Boyd's Bears, Catherine Berriweather and Caitlin Berriweather, which were produced in the 1990's. Both bears have all original tags and are dressed in blue & white acrylic sweaters. blue felt hats, and cranberry color satin ribbons around their necks. Catherine measures 11" tall x 6" wide. Caitlin measures 7" tall x 5" wide. Bears are made of polyester fibers and have small black plastic eyes and plastic buttons on the front of their sweaters. They are too cute together!
Download the PDF pattern for "Caitlin the Caterpillar" - Amigurumi Crochet Pattern For Toys in Paintbox Yarns Simply DK - DK-CRO-TOY-003 & start crocheting today! Discover thousands of downloadables and Crochet patterns at LoveCrafts.com.
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Hello friends! It's Katie from Skunkboy Creatures. The DIY I have to share today is a pretty collar in honor of the blog party! You can wear it over t-shirts, sweaters or anything you like! My inspiration for this project was this pretty owl. She shares my love of pretty collars and dainty fabrics! Supplies needed: pretty fabric, measuring tape, scissors, sewing machine or patient hands, needle and thread, pretty...
Amigurumi rabbit assembly tutorial includes tons of photos and a free bunny crochet pattern for kids and baby! Great step by step guide for beginners.
Luna kitten The kitten Luna was 17cm tall. I used a Tulip Red 2.2mm needle. Materials: – Cream colored amigurumi yarn 1112 – 90 gr – Amigurumi yarn white 8001 – 7 gr – Rose quartz amigurumi thread – 7 gr – Soft amigurumi yarn gem color 4146 – 5gr – Silicone fiber filling –...
You'll find no OTTER crochet pattern as fun, easy, and fluffy as this amigurumi Sea Otter! It works up so quickly and uses only a few basic stitches, and it truly resembles one of the sea's cutest creatures when finished. Plus, it's just the right size to use as a stuffed toy or decoration!
PLUSH SEWING PATTERN IN DIGITAL FORMAT, NOT A HANDMADE PLUSH. Stuffed animal sewing pattern, easy tutorial & instructions to make cute kawaii alpaca and llama stuffed animals. 12 video techniques included! Perfect for holiday presents and baby shower gifts! Materials, finished product are not included. Instructions are in English only. By purchasing, you agree to credit "Pattern by Teacuplion" in your online photos/marketing. Sewing skill level: Advanced Beginner / Intermediate Sew your own big, cuddly alpaca and llama plush with my detailed photo and video tutorial! Sewing with my patterns is stress-free; my customers say that my patterns are so easy to understand, that it's like taking a class with me. I will walk you through each step in the instructions, including how to make basic stitches. Written for intermediate sewers, and can be made by hand sewing or machine sewing. I will teach you 10 years worth of my plush sewing knowledge and tips to make sewing easier, a fun creative experience, and your finished plush look more professional. Check out my free sewing tutorials at teacuplion.com Alpaca is oh so cute and huggable! Floppy limbs and large cuddle size make alpaca a great playmate (12” tall, 6” wide, and 12” long with feet). This soft toy can be made with cuddly eyelash minky, stretchy sherpa, or other stretchy fluffy fabric, and is durable with strong, hidden seams. Includes pattern and tutorials for alpaca with accessories: capelet with puff balls, bow, and scarf. ~*~*~*~*~*~ Included in this PDF: * 25 pages total, 18 pages of step-by-step instructions with 12 videos, nearly 100 color photos of the plush-making process * Face alignment lines and detailed face embroidery photo tutorial * Full-size printer-ready pattern pieces to make your pony with same or different hoof colors * Tips and tricks for a professional finish * Full materials list *** TERMS OF SALE*** By purchasing, you agree that you have read to and adhere to the following: All digital purchases are non-refundable once downloaded, due to the nature of my product and its' delivery. These patterns are perfect for your handmade business/hobby to make plush to sell at shows, conventions, or online. Please give credit to “Pattern by TeacupLion” and link to my shop https://www.etsy.com/shop/teacuplion This applies to whether you sell online or in person. If you modify the pattern, give credit with "Modified from a TeacupLion pattern" as my designs are Derivative Work. You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern in digital or printed form. This pattern is not for mass production, factory, or sewing class. ~*~*~*~*~*~ Sewing skill level: Advanced Beginner/Intermediate In this pattern, you will sew fabric in multiple layers, sew darts, and sew curved edges to straight edges. I have included tips on how to make these easier, but background knowledge or experience will be helpful. :) You will learn the following skills in this pattern: * Hand-embroider a smiling face with straight and curved lines * How to position ears and mouth with personality * Pin and sew a straight edge to a curved edge easily and without puckering Special materials needed: * Fluffy, stretchy fabric (stretch sherpa, stretch fur, eyelash/shaggy/rose/swirl minky) * Ballpoint machine sewing needle * 21mm safety eyes (I like GlassEyesOnline.com) * Embroidery thread and 5" doll needle ~*~*~*~*~*~ Shipping & Printing: Your pattern will be available for immediate download after payment with PayPal or Etsy Direct Checkout. You will receive an email with your download link, or you can download from your Etsy Invoice/Download Page. PDF reading software (at least Acrobat 7.0) and a printer with ink/paper is required. Please print “Actual Size” for best results. Sales tax is charged if you live in California. ~*~*~*~*~*~ About the Artist: I have created hundreds of unique soft toy designs since I started making them in 2006. Sewing high-quality plush art is my life passion, and I’m so glad I can finally share my designs and professional techniques with you. I’m sure you’ll find sewing plushies to be a fun, relaxing, and rewarding experience! :) See the rest of my plushie sewing patterns: http://www.etsy.com/shop/TeacupLion
You'll have fun as you crochet this popular and beautiful peacock plushie! Don't be intimidated by its feathers, there's video tutorials!
Caitlins story - gilflingsdesigns.typepad.com/gilflings_designs/2008/10/ca... Bridgets story - gilflingsdesigns.typepad.com/gilflings_designs/2008/10/br...
Come browse this curated list of the best 50+ free printable stuffed animal patterns! Photos and working links for each softie PDF pattern.
Get the free Donkey Eeyore Amigurumi crochet pattern. Perfect for all skill levels. Start crafting donkey amigurumi today!
Meet Amy the Amigurumi Doll! She was inspired by a bunny I loved on my daughter's shirt. The skirt shirt combo caught my eye and every time I saw it I wanted to try and crochet it as a doll! My daughter was thrilled their outfits matched as well! She measures about 14 inches from head to toe and is a great pattern for beginners! The legs and body are made as one piece making the pattern work up quickly! This pattern was originally released as a CAL (crochet-a-long) that has now ended, but it will remain a free pattern here on the blog which is why I have combined all parts of the pattern into one below! Be sure to join the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook so you can share your WIP as you go and ask any questions you have along the way! I have used plastic safety eyes in this pattern but if you would prefer an alternative I have a tutorial for crochet eyes here! The pattern will be worked in the round and I highly recommend using stitch markers if you don't already. This is one material you don't necessarily have to purchase. A piece of scrap yarn, safety pin or bobby pin will work just fine! You may make and sell items made from this pattern but please do not sell, share or reproduce the actual pattern. If you sell finished items online (Etsy, etc) please provide a link to the pattern and credit to me as the designer, thank you. I hope you enjoy this pattern! Pattern - PIN it here to save to your favorite board! - Purchase an ad-free printable version from Etsy or Ravelry for a small fee If you are new to amigurumi be sure to check out my tips and materials page to help get you started! This post contains affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn! Materials you will need- Size 4 worsted weight yarn 50g desired skin color 25g color for shirt and skirt 25g desired hair color Small amount for hair tie 12mm safety eyes 3.5 mm crochet hook Black embroidery thread for eyelashes Pink embroidery thread for smile (yarn can easily be used as well!) Scissors Tapestry needle - I love the bent tips! Stuffing (Poly-Fil and Morning Glory are my favorites!) Stitch markers The biggest question I had when first making amigurumi dolls was finding yarn for different skin colors. Here's a few to try out depending on the shade you are looking for. I love that there are MANY options, making it easy to make your doll in the likeness of the little one you want to gift it to! Light to Dark Shades Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn - Ivory Caron Simply Soft - Peach Vanna's Choice - Linen or Beige Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek - Ivory (this is what I used for this pattern) Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn - Toasted Almond or Brown Red Heart Soft - Chocolate Abbreviations (US terms) SC- Single crochet SC INC- Single crochet increase INV DEC- Invisible decrease HDC- Half double crochet HDC INC- Half double crochet increase Sl st – Slip stitch Blo- Back loops only Let's get started! Legs and Body- Make 2- Starting with skin color Round 1: Create a magic circle with 8 SC Round 2: SC INC in each stitch (16) Rounds 3-30: SC around (16) Fasten off (do not fasten off at the end of the 2nd leg, see below) *Round 31 joins the legs together and starts the body * Round 31: Chain 4 and attach to the first leg with a SC, SC in the remaining stitches around the leg, when you reach the chain make a SC across each of the 4 chains, SC in the remaining stitches of the next leg and across each of the 4 chains (you will have SC on both sides of the chain 4 now) (40 SC) This completes your join and is where your next round will start. *Quick note- This can be the trickiest part if you haven't made a project with this technique. The chains are like a bridge connecting the legs together and we want to crochet around the entire piece to make it one. * Rounds 32-36: SC around (40) Change to skirt color Round 37: SC around (40) Round 38: SC around in the blo (40) Round 39: SC around (40) Change to shirt color Rounds 40-48: SC around (40) Round 49: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (32) Round 50: SC around (32) Round 51: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC, rpt around (24) Change to skin color Rounds 52-53: SC around (24) Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing Skirt With color of choice (Note: The skirt is not worked in continuous rounds, you will be joining each round at the end) To work the skirt, have your doll’s body towards you and feet away from you (see pictures below for example) and we’ll work around: Create a slip knot and attach with a slip stitch to one of the front loops from round 38 (For a cleaner look attach at the back of the body) Round 1: Ch 1, DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (40) Round 2: Ch 1, *DC in the same stich, DC INC in the next*, *repeat around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (60) Rounds 3-7: Ch 1, DC in the same stitch and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to the first DC (60) Fasten off and weave in ends Head With skin color *Note: Cut a strand of yarn about 10 inches long, this will be used for the nose halfway through* Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12) Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rpt around (18) Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (24) Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (30) Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (36) Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (42) Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (48) Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (54) Rounds 10-19: SC around (54) Note: Here is where we will add the facial features before we start closing the head. Insert the eyes between rows 16 and 17, 9 stitches apart. Place your eyes where you would like them and then remove to embroider your eyelashes before attaching the washer to the back. (This creates a little hole to help see where you want your eyelashes to go.) Nose and Smile- Using same color yarn, place the nose two rows beneath your eyes and 3 stitches in on each side (this will leave 3 stitches in the middle and this is what you will pass your yarn through to create the nose). Pass your yarn through 4 times (or as many as you would like for a thinner or wider nose). Using your pink embroidery thread (or pink yarn) make a ‘V’ for the smile. *Stuff your head as you go. Round 20: SC in the first 7 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (48) Round 21: SC in the first 6 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (42) Round 22: SC in the first 5 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (36) Round 23: SC in the first 4 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (30) Round 24: SC in the first 3 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (24) Round 25: SC in the first 2 stitches, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (18) Round 26: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC in the next, rpt around (12) *Make sure the head is fully stuffed before closing Round 27: INV DEC around (6) Fasten off and sew remaining part closed, weave in your end Hair Hat With hair color To make the hair we will make a hair hat or wig to sew on. This is very similar to the spine hat we made on the amigurumi Hedgehog! Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12) Round 3: SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next, rpt around (18) Round 4: SC in the first 2 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (24) Round 5: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (30) Round 6: SC in the first 4 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (36) Round 7: SC in the first 5 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (42) Round 8: SC in the first 6 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (48) Round 9: SC in the first 7 stitches, SC INC in the next, rpt around (54) Rounds 10-14: SC around (54) Round 15: DC in the first 26 stitches, sl st in the next 2 stitches, and DC in the remaining 26 stitches (54) Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the head Hair Cut multiple strands of yarn about 16 inches long. I wrapped yarn around my crochet case (you could also use a DVD or something similar) and cut one end. This will speed up the process as you will need MANY strands of yarn. Take your first strand of hair and slip stitch through a stitch from round 14. Continue this around for each stitch on rounds 13 and 14. Put on a good movie, this part takes some time but the hair is so cute it's worth it! When you have all of your hair on, line up your hair hat onto the head and sew on. The part can either be in the middle or off to one of the sides. I placed mine just above the highest part of the eyelashes. Using your bent tip or straight needle go through one of the stitches on your hair hat and into the top stitch on the head. Continue around until hair hat is secure and fasten off. Pull the hair back into a ponytail and secure. I used a piece of the same colored yarn with a double knot. No need to weave in the ends, it will blend in nicely with the others! Hair Tie With color of choice chain 19, HDC in the 2nd chain from hook and in each across (18) Fasten off leaving a long tail, place around the ponytail and sew ends together. Trim any hair that seems uneven. Arms Make 2 *Lightly stuff the bottom of the arms only* With skin color Round 1: Create a magic circle with 6 SC Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12) Round 3: SC in the first 3 stitches, SC INC, rpt around (15) Rounds 4-5: SC around (15) Round 6: SC in the first stitch, INV DEC, rpt around (10) Rounds 7-13: SC around (10) Change to shirt color Rounds 14-23: SC around (10) At the end of round 23 pinch the arm flat and make 5 SC across the top to close, fasten off and leave a long tail to sew onto the body. Assembling the body- Sew the head onto the last round of the body, making sure to have the facial features centered. Add more stuffing as you go to make it firm and less wobbly. Feel free to use pins to hold it in place. I like to place the head where I want it and see what round on the bottom of the head I want to try to sew onto, it gives me a visual and helps keep it even all the way around. I used the same technique here as when we attached the hair hat to the head. Last, sew the arms onto the body centered with the head at row 50. Your doll is complete! I hope you have enjoyed making this pattern. Feel free to add a little bow or flower to accessorize! The flower in the Berry Patch Bunny or bows from Emma would make a great accessory!
These DIY stuffed animal organizer plans are super simple to make and many of them use materials that you probably have on hand. From stuffed animal bins and cages to DIY stuffed animal zoos, you are going to find the perfect way to display and store all of those stuffed toys, even your adorable DIY stuffed toys.
Hi, my name is Luna and I am a Fuzziggle. My fur is Orange and super fluffy. I'm a small size bat; my body is about 4x4x5 inches, but my wingspan is 12 inches.I'm made of plush faux fur, my wings are 100% wool felt, and I get stuffed with a super soft down alternative Dacron® polyfill. I have safety eyes and am washable, if you follow the instructions that come in my packaging. I am perfect for snuggling or just being there when you need a friend. Please take me home today.Recommended for children 3 and up.
Kuschelschaf Ben nähen: kostenloses Schnittmuster und Nähanleitung für ein bezauberndes DIY-Kuscheltier. Geeignet für Nähanfänger!
This little baby dino is super adorable and perfect as a gift for any dinosaur lovers or even just as a cute little desk buddy. It has been handmade with super soft and squishy yarn + fiber fill stuffing. Materials: 100% polyester - yarn | Safety eyes | Polyfill stuffing *WARNING: Safety eyes on plushies are unsuitable for children under the age of 3* I am based in Australia so international orders may have a higher shipping cost and wait time, if you would like express internationally please message me! Message me if you have any questions or issues with your order! If you would like a custom order feel free to dm me on Instagram or go to my website in my Instagram bio!! Follow me on instagram or tiktok @caitlins.crochets (insta) and @caitlin.crochets (tiktok) 🌸 Pattern by - merymakes
This adorable blue whale family would be a great gift for a baby shower. Mix and match the whole family of yours with these personalized whale toys that can also serve as decorative pillows in your nautical nursery or living room! They are made of hypoallergenic cotton and stuffing, eyes are painted with kids-safe acrylic paint. Due to the handmade nature of every toy, there might be slight differences with the picture shown. Please also check other nautical creatures here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/MariaPolyDolls?ref=seller-platform-mcnav§ion_id=28228187 SIZES Papa Whale is 20" long, Mama Whale is 14" long, Baby Whale is 6" long. SHIPPING Please allow 2-5 working days before shipping. CARE INSTRUCTIONS Spot clean or hand wash gently with cool water and lay flat to dry.
This pattern has been a long time in the posting. I've argued with myself over whether or not I should sell this one, but I just couldn't do it. I know it would sell well, and I surely do need the money, but the whole reason I began making these FAN ART plushes was because I know very well how hard it is to find good patterns to make things like these for the kids. I started out looking for patterns to make for my kids, and I found none that I could afford and so started making them myself. I will mention though that if anyone feels inclined to make a donation for the patterns I offer for free here, I have a donation button on the right hand side of the page, the amount is up to you and every donation is deeply appreciated. I do have an Etsy shop where I sell some of my original designs, but I do not sell FAN ART patterns there, those patterns I always offer for free here, because I don't believe FAN ART should be shared on condition of payment, it's a labor of love. Ok... the pattern. This is a more complicated pattern than most of my plushes on here. That's mostly due to the fact there are many smaller parts ... but they aren't really difficult, just different. I have checked the pattern many times and I feel like everything is there and is right, but if you run into anything that gives you trouble, just message me, I will be more than happy to help you. I try to check email at least three times a day if not more often. All the pictures are clickable so you can see them in larger size and get a better idea of the details such as ears, sideburns, etc. I tried to get as many different views as possible. MATERIALS: WW yarn in blue, red, white, peach (or a skin color) and small amounts of black and brown G Hook Fiberfill Yarn Needle Felt in small amounts (white, blue, black) 2 small shirt buttons in yellow (or gold if you have it) Sewing thread to match yarns and felts and a medium duty to heavy duty sewing needle NOTES: Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through. Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row. I recommend reading through the pattern before beginning, to familiarize yourself with the overall process of construction of the doll HEAD (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36) Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36) Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30) Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24) Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff head firmly while shaping as you go along. Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 16: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12) Rnd 17: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends. NOSE (using peach): Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 4: dec over next 2 sc around (6) F/O weave in tail. Stuff and shape. EARS: (using peach, make 2) Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (do not join, do not ch 1) turn. (3) Rnd 2: 3 sc in first sc, 2 sc in remaining 2 sc. Do not ch 1, turn (7) Rnd 3: sl st in each sc across (7) F/O and tie the 2 ends together creating a slight curve (ear shape) MUSTACHE: (using black) Ch 7, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 5, slip stitch in next ch Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch Ch 3, slip stitch in next ch Ch 4, slip stitch in next ch Ch 5, slip stich in last ch. F/O weave in ends. BODY (starting with blue): Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6-14: sc in each sc around (40) Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around. In last stitch, change to red yarn (32) Rnd 16: sc in each sc around (32) Rnd 17: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc, (24) Rnd 18-21: sc in each sc around (24) Rnd 22: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18) Rnd 23: sc in each sc around (18) Stuff and shape body firmly. Leave neck opening open. HANDS/ARMS (starting with white): (hand/arm version with thumb, shown in photos) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 5: sc in next 5 sc, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs. sc in next 5 sc (10 sc and one 'thumb') Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (hold 'thumb' down in the front of work and sc behind it) (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. (alternate hand/arm version without thumb, not shown) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10) Rnd 3-6: sc in each sc around (10) Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (8) Rnd 8: (working in front loops only for this round) sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12) F/O white. Attach red yarn to any of the 'free loops' inside of last round of stitches in hand. Rnd 9: sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in next free loop, sc in next 3 free loops, 2 sc in last free loop (10) Rnd 10-16: sc in each sc around (10) Stuff arm moderately firm (leave hand unstuffed, but add stuffing in 'wrist' area and up to shoulder) Flatten the end matching up stitches and sc through all layers to close (5 sc across) F/O weave in ends. SUSPENDERS (using blue): Row 1: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and last ch (2) Row 2-28: sc in both sc (do not ch 2 to turn, it makes for a straighter edge) (2) F/O Weave in ends. LEGS/FEET: Legs (using blue, make 2) Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: (working in back loops only for this round) sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 4-8: sc in each sc around. (16) F/O stuff firmly and shape them both evenly. Don't close the open end. Feet (using brown, make 2) Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12) Rnd 3: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14) Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc around (14) Rnd 11: dec over next 2 sc around (7) F/O stuff *lightly* and shape as desired. Weave end through final round and pull to close. Secure and weave in ends. Sew feet/shoes to 'closed' end of leg as shown (open end is attached to the body) HAT: (using red) Rnd 1: 8 sc in Magic Ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24) Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32) Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40) Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (48) Rnd 7: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (54) Rnd 8: sc in each sc around (54) Rnd 9: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (45) Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (45) Rnd 11: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36) Rnd 12: sc in next 25 sc, leave remaining 11 stitches unworked. The 25 stitches will become the 'front' of the hat which is a little higher than the back of the hat. F/O (weave in end) Rnd 13: Attach yarn to center (stitch number 6) of the unworked stitches of the round 11 (not the last 25 sc you worked) and then sc in each sc around. When you reach the section with the 25 sc from round 12, just continue to sc in each one the same as working in unjoined rounds. When you reach the last of the 25 sc, simply continue on to the sc from round 11. (36) Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (36) F/O and weave in ends. Brim/bill of hat: Row 1: Beginning from joining stitch of final round, count 12 stitches over, attach yarn in 13th sc, ch 1 and sc in same stitch as joining. sc in next 11 sc, turn (12) Row 2: (working in front loops only for this row only), sc in each sc across (12) Row 3-6: sc in each sc across (12) Row 7: dec over first 2 sc, sc in remaining sc across to the last two sc, dec over the last 2 sc (10) Do not turn. Ch 1. slip stitch evenly around brim (one sc in end of each row for the sides). When you reach the corner where the brim meets the hat, put 2 sc in that corner and resume slip stitching in each st around until you reach the starting point. Join to first sl st and f/o. weave in ends HAT LOGO: Using white: Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8) Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16) F/O weave in ends. Cut an M from red felt (I recommend using paper first so that you can be sure you like the look and the size before cutting from felt, using the paper M as a pattern). Glue or sew the M to the center of white circle, sew the logo onto the center front of hat (be sure to center it with the bill of the hat) SIDE BURNS: (Using brown, make 2) Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch (2) Row 2: sc in both sc (2) Row 3: skip first sc, sc in last sc (1) F/O weave in ends. HAIR: (using black) Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 3, * sc in next ch, ch 3 * (repeat from * to * to end of chain) end with sc in last ch. F/O ASSEMBLY: I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle. Sew head to neck opening. Sew hat to top of head as shown, giving a slight tilt backwards on the head. Sew the 'hair' to the bottom of the hat at the back (see the photos). Nose is sewn centered on the face with the brim of the hat, but a little lower on the face. Mustache is sewn under the nose much like the hair was at the back of the head. Ears should be placed just at the base of the hat on the sides of the head. Experiment with the placement so that you can be sure you're happy with how the ears look. Sideburns are sewn just in front of the ears as shown. Arms are sewn to the sides of the upper body near the base of the head. If you made the version with the thumbs, be sure to pay attention to the position of the hands and that the thumb is in the right place. Hands should be slightly curved inwards. Suspenders are sewn on as shown (crossing them in the back). Add the two small yellow (or gold) buttons to the suspenders where they meet the 'pants'. Legs/feet are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown. Eyes are constructed from a larger oval shape in white, with a smaller oval shape in blue and another even smaller oval shape in black (see photos). I also like to add a tiny white circle of felt as a catch light to the eyes to help give some dimention. Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo. This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (August 2009). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site or publish on any cd or collection. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. Photos are also property of and copyright Linda Potts.
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