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Another side bustle...
Time for pretty pictures again, this time of black bustle dresses. I'd guess ranging from ca. 1875 to ca. 1885. All from La Mode Illustree. Beware of a very image-heavy post, because I'm bad at choosing. They're placed chronologically, so you can see the progress in styles from big and fluffy to sleek to the revival…
I had my very first successful alterations appointment on Tuesday. [THANK YOU 2ND BRIDE FOR YOUR RECOMMENDATION!!!] Surprisingly, it was the very first time I had ever...
Every once in a while, fashion - like art, music, food, children and other aspects of one's life - goes through an unfortunate phase. One such phase occurred in the 19th century. The bustle. I'm not sure if this fashion tort will ever again inflict its beasty society upon right-thinking members of society. We cannot,…
The enduring fascination with lingerie
Description UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. THOMAS A. EARL, OF NORTH ATTLEBOROUGH, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR v TO HIMSELF AND CHARLES A. DURGIN. IMPROVEMENT IN BUSTLES. Specification forming` part of Letters Patent No. 25,786, dated October l1, 1859. To all lwhom, t may concern: Be it known that I, THoMAs A. EARL, of North Attleborough, Bristol county, Massachusetts, have invented a new and Improved Adjustable Bustle for the Expansion of Ladies7 Dresses; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, figures, and letters of reference thereon, making part of this specification. In the said drawings, Figure 1 denotes a side elevation of my improved bustle detached from the skirt on a person. Fig.'2 is a side elevation of the same attached to and made part of a hoopskirt when not on a person. Fig. 3 is a back side View of the same. Similar letters of reference indicate like parts in all the drawings. In the manufacture of ladies skirtsA it has been found desirable, and is now by the trade deemed a prerequisite, that all skirts shall be provided with some device by which the bustle or expansion may be regulated. Heretofore all devices for this purpose have consisted of lacings or similar devices which were incon- Venient and illy contrived for this purpose, subjecting the wearer to inconveniece in adjusting, and disagreeable on the person. The nature of my invention is to effectually remedy all these objections and provide a bustle of the simplest construction and capable of ready adjustment, as will be more fully hereinafter set forth. To this end, and to enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I will proceed to describe its construction and operation. A A represent hoops, secured together in circular form by metallic fastenings. B B are the vertical supporting-strips, attached to the hoops by sewing or proper fastenings. C C are segments of hoops, which reach about half-way around the person, and are secured in like manner to the supporting-strips as the hoops, the ends being made fast at b. D is the belt, having a proper clasp, a, or fastening to secure it around the waist of the person. E is a projecting piece, which is securely fastened to the belt at c, as seen in Fig. 3. F is a metallic clasp fitted to the projecting piece E, so as to slide thereon, and is held in place by friction or otherwise. G is a strip, which is secured to the ends of the segments C C, as shown in Figs. l and 3, and passes through the slide F at d. Operation: The bustle being placed upon the wearer, the clasp F on the piece E (which ts the hollow of the back,and is consequently held at an angle) being up to the belt there is little or no expansion, and to adjust it to any degree is only necessary to reach back the hand and move the clasp F on the projecting piece E down, which,by means of the strip G, draws back the segments,and thereby expands the dress to the desired fashionable position. The adjustment is almost instantly accomplished and to any degree by moving the clasp up to or away from the belt D. I do not conne myself to a bustle attached to a hooped skirt, as I intend to apply them to the various kinds of ladies skirts, or use them separately, as described; neither do I limit myself to any style of clasp or mechanism for operating it. I claim The segments O, supported as described, in combination with the projecting strut E, slide F, and strip G, the whole being constructed and operated substantially as set forth and described. THOMAS A. EARL. [L s] Witnesses: G. A. DURGIN, D. G. BowLANDs.
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Description proper position on the wearer. view from the under side, showing the con-` Uiv/ITED STATES PATENT GEEIcE. ` ROBERT BIERING, OF NEW YORK, N. Y. IMPRovEMENT IN BUsTLEs. Specicaticn forming part of Letters Patent No. 168,130, dated September 28, 1875; application led Mayl 3,A 1875. To all whom't may concern: Be it known thatl, ROBERT BrERrNe, of . the city, county, and State of New York, Yhaveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in PompadouuBustles, of which the following is' a specification: My invention relates to that class of'bustles which, when secured to the waist of the it consists in the lower portion being remova- .bly and adjustablyattached to the upper or bustle proper; also, in the construction and forms of the" said bustle, as will be hereinafter fully described. In the drawings, Figure l is a perspective view, "showing my improved bustle in its Fig. 24 is a struction ofthe trail-support. Fig.3 is avfront view, showing the bustle detached from `the wearer. Fig. et is a side view, showing the adjustment of the trail-support. Figs. 5 and 6 are,respectively, plan and sectional views, illustrating the manner of removing the springs. Heretofore,.in constructing bustles of this class, it has been `customary to make them similar to one-half of a hoop-skirt, having no bodycloth, and consisting only of a series of springs bent into the form of a semicircle, i and connected together by tapes properly arranged and spaced. This form'provides no support whatever. for the trail of the dress. My ,bustle consists of two distinct portions: The upper part or bustle proper A, and the lower part B, which I will designate as'the trail-support. The bustle A is, preferably, ` angle named being obtuse, it follows that' assisting in its support. whenl the ends of the band O are brought around and fastened in front the said wings stand out full, and are drawn smoothly over thehips of the wearer, thus holding' the bustle firmly in place, (see Fig. 1,) and materially With these gussets or wings it is imposible `for thev bustle to slip'around to the side of the wearer. E E are webs. of cloth secured at one edge to the bustle, and provided at their free edges with eyelets for lacing. In theordinary bustle the lacing vcannot be accomplished while the bustle is attached to the wearer; but in mine, as herein shown, the ends of the lace-cord are passed upthrough eyelets in the top of the bustle at b, and tied on the outside, thus rendering the padjustment easy and convenient after the bustle is put on. rlhe edges of the. bustle are stiffened by the insertion of springs c c, which extend upward from the bottom of the bustle A to the points d d, justabove the lower corners of the wings D D. The lower portion or trail-support B is 'formed of one thickness of cloth only', to avoid unnecessary weight, and the shirrs are formed by stitching on tape of suitable width, asA shownat j, in Fig. 5. The upper edge of thev trail-support conforms in size to the lower edge of the bustle proper, and is attached removably and adjustably thereto by means of buttons e e, or other equivalent device. I provide several button-holes in the support B, arranged vertically, one above the other, preferably in three rows, one at each side, and one behind, by which means the trail-support may be adjusted as to height. By engaging the lower button-holes at the sides, and the upper at the back, as in Fig. 4, the trail is caused to droop behind. Beversing the operation causes a reverse eiiect. By the proper shaping of the cloth and arrangement of the shirrs or spring-cases, I produce the gracefully-curved projecting support j one or more rows of muslin ruffles, fi, stitched thereon, as shown. f-terial maybe substituted, as, for instance, 2 p f j 168,130 t 0r, if desired, other mastriped or figured dark fabric, to resemble balmoral skirts. suitable eyelets and laces for adjusting the width, are required for the trail-support B, as well as the bustle A. To prevent said sup port from wrinkling at the bottom, I provide the edges with stiffening-'springs g g, which extend upward to a point about half-way to the junction of the two portions A B. To enable the entire garment to be washed, I provide for the easy removal of the springs, as follows: At a point, k, near one end of the shirrs, said shirr is cut or omitted for a short space. rllhe spring is removed (see Fig. 6) by bending up the exposed portion, which releases the short end; the spring may then be drawn fout. By reversing the operation, the spring is readily replaced. ,j To prevent the bustle from swinging sidewise, or backward, and retain it closely to the person, I provide bands G G, preferably of muslim in two thicknesses with strips of elastic webbing interposed or inserted in suitable shirrs while in a state of tension. These bands may be attached to the bustle in any convenient manner, but preferably removable, and after the bustle is put on are brought round y to the front and secured together. Their elas- Yticity permits the free use of the limbs in the act of sitting down, or when walking. It will sometimes be desirable to remove the part B entirely, and wear only the part A. This can, of course, be done very readily either before or after putting on. Having thus described my invention, I claim- Webs E' E', provided with- 1. The bustle A, provided with a waistband, C, and wings D D, arranged to be drawn over the hips, when constructed substantially in the manner shown. 2. A bustle, A, provided with an adjustable and removable lower portion or trail-support, B, when constructed and arranged in the manner substantially as shown. 3. A bustle, A, provided with Webs E E, having suitable laces and lacing-holes, the ends of the said laces passing out through holes in the top of the bustle at b, so as to be idjusted from and tied on the outside, as .set orth. 4. In combination with the bustle A, the trail-support B, attached adjustably and removably thereto, and provided with a curved rear projection, f, substantially as shown, and for the purposes set forth. 5. In combination with the bustle A and trailsupport B, constructed as herein described, the elastic bands G G, as and for the purposes specified. 6. A pannier or bustle constructed with a series of concealed pockets, j j, having openings h h, iu combination with springs a a detachably inserted iu the pockets j j, substantially as and for the purpose set forth. In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. ROBERTY BIEBING. Witnesses HENRY OONNETT, ARTHUR C.. FRASER.
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I know, it's the middle of July, and where I am it's the middle of summer. Despite that, I'm doing a post with pictures of winter bustle dresses. The main reason is that I got new shoes! American Duchess was having a sale, and I couldn't resist, and I got the Victoria carriage boots. They're…
There are many good things about The Buccaneers (1995), the BBC miniseries based on an unfinished novel by Edith Wharton. It’s delightful eye candy all around — set in the late 1870s to…
I brought my dress in today to start alterations. I'm so excited to see it become my exact dress. Except then came the bustle. He said he typically only does the French...
Drexel University professor David Raizman is currently directing the History of Modern Design NEH Summer Institute here in the URBN Center. The group includes visiting scholars who are leading discussions for twenty-five selected college faculty members, with the goal of preparing them to "meet the increasing demand for . . . courses on modern design history." One of…
Women’s clothes as an aid to dating photographs.
Undergarments and supports were the foundation underpinning female fashion up until the early twentieth century. Foundation garments formed the rigid basis that moulded the contours of the wearers body into fashionable silhouettes, further enhanced by the drape and shape of the garment worn on top. One of the earliest examples of a foundation garment in…
Raise your hand if you are / were a girl who loved pretty clothes and also loved running around and probably getting into a little trouble? Then Enola Holmes (2020), one of Netflix’s latest o…
Easily one of the top 10 — top 5? — ever historical costume movies for the bustle era, The Age of Innocence (1993) was directed by Martin Scorsese and won the Best Costume Design Oscar …
