Helpful charts for the beginning quilter!

That Pop of Color is a Lovely Finish! Add a final decorative touch to your quilt with a flanged binding. That little strip of color can be just the accent your quilt needs for a beautiful finish. The binding is done entirely by machine and looks great on both sides. Mitered corners give it a …

If you get frustrated putting on binding because you sometimes miss catching the back of the binding and get little gaps – you need this article on how to use a binding foot! Never miss the back again…

Hand Work Station Yes! Marissa's Moment of Caprice is finally at this station. That makes me super happy even though my Hawaiian mini is sooo close to being finished that it was a shame to have to set it aside once more. I love the back on this (seen here) as much as the front. Let me say: Scalloped binding is gorgeous and I know I'll do it again for sure, but WHAT A JOB! Luckily I picked up a few tips from around Blogworld, and let me pass those along. You absolutely must use a bias-cut binding. You cannot go around those curves and inward corners with on-the-grain strips. The tip I picked up a couple years ago to starch binding shut on itself as you press the fold (this lightly "glues" the layers together so you don't get slippage puckers) was immensely beneficial for scalloped attachment. Don't cut the scallops until you've attached all the binding. You lose a ton of stability on your sewing base if you turn that into bias as well. In a couple of the pics below you can see the blue-line edge I had traced onto the quilt top before quilting. Another thing that really helped with putting on this binding is that I'd basted just inside that line (about 2 mm) when I was going to start my FMQ. You're going to need a lot of time for this task. It normally takes me 30-35 minutes to attach a twin-sized binding. This took several sessions (it's VERY intense work), and added up to just under 3 hours! So plan for that if you've got a deadline on a project. While sewing, you'll need a tool to hold the edge in place around those curves and to swing the seam allowance out of the way on the inner angles. Did your trusty Purple Thang get lost during a recent move? Grab a seam ripper. Worked great. You don't need to fuss and worry about easing in fabric on the curves, but I found it extremely helpful as I approached those angles to lay in a pin parallel to the next curve's beginning, and 1/4" in from the edge line. Then I knew to stop the end of the curve I just made and pivot on my down-needle when I arrived at that pin. Just be careful to get your binding bent around that needle-down without stretching it. Be meticulous about getting the little folds that will form out of the way of the needle. You gotta get the next couple of stitches without going through any of those. If the needle does go through a fold, you really need to pull it all out from under the foot and pop out that stitch. Leaving it in will steal way too much of your binding from you for turning over the edge later. Trust me, it's worth the extra effort to fix that. And you go along, doing the Dory thing - "Just keep swimming, Just keep swimming" - nice and slow, until you finally arrive back where you started and you do some funky Twister struggle to get a bumpless binding connecting seam in one tiny scallop space. That was an adventure, but happily successful. :) Even the quilt was happy that this part was accomplished! Look at it grinning away at me from where I set it down to await TV time and the scallop-trimming: Again, with that task - go slow! You don't want to slice through your stitches when you're cutting those inner angles! Yeah, I was holding my breath a lot for those. It took 50 minutes to cut this twin quilt's scallops - Just so you know. You also want a nice, smooth edge. You do NOT need to snip the angles into the point of the stitching to achieve pretty inner corners later. Let it stay stronger by keeping its seam allowance intact. Also - I would stick to scissors for this task. A rotary cutter, even the tiny one, would be too risky at those inner angles. All sources and quilters stressed to me that scalloped bindings really, REALLY need to be hand-stitched down. This was fine for me, as I only machine-finish bindings on baby quilts and quilts with super-thick backings like corduroy and minky. This is another point you need to allow extra time for, though. I had comforted myself during the attachment time that at least the hand-stitching part would be more regular in time demands. However! Judging by the distance I got while watching movies with my very sick 15yo - - - it will take a total of 9 2-hour movies to stitch this baby all down, compared to a usual 3 or 4 for this size. So..... all together, at every stage, you need to factor in much, MUCH more time to put on a scalloped binding. But they're worth it! I was happy to find that the bias binding eases around the curved edges quite nicely after you practice a few. For me and my tastes, the 2 1/4 inch strips I sewed on were a perfect match for the 1/4" seam allowance I cut. I usually use 3/8" allowance on bindings, but with the curves I went a little shallower. I found it easiest to stop pinning at the middle of a scallop and jump ahead to the next angle. Fold the first edge flat like this, keeping a good tension at the stitches on the right. Fold the second edge flat like this, again making sure you don't have gapping at the stitches on that side. (Don't pull it all super-tight, just get it to the stitching.) You'll have a nice pleat running up the center of the angle. Now you can bend the whole she-bang up at the edge. You want to pinch the fold in place at the edge of the quilt while allowing it to spread back out on the edge of the binding that will meet the corner when you finish laying it down. My thumb is hiding the folded part that I'm pinching here: Now lay it down flat on the point of stitching. You can see how the fold slid open so that it disappears right at the edge of the point, but remained in place at the inner angle. All this prep work is the part that gets much faster and neater for you after you've fumbled through a few. These want to be pinned vertically. I can't get clips to hold the fold nice enough for me, so I just be careful of the porcupine effect as I'm working. Now you can go back and pin the gap just behind the angle. Don't worry about the fullness at the sewing edge. . . . . . It will lay itself down very nicely because of the bias cut if you use an invisible ladder-type stitching that you can see Nadine show at her tutorial. I tried to get a shot for you to see how I treat the angles. As the quilt is used, I don't want those folds to get pulled out and then be all ugly-popped. So I stitch each one invisibly shut - front and back. *However* - I was also concerned that pulling stress on twisting scallops might pop stitches at those corners, so I left the outer 1/3 or so unstitched, to allow for a wee bit of give without giving the fold room to pop out. Hopefully you can see here what I'm talking about. I'm sure this is where all the extra stitching time is coming from, but I'm also sure from playing around with an un-secured angle that I will not at all regret this extra care in the stitching. It just gets all messy without it when you manipulate the quilt edge. So! If you're considering a scalloped edge, leave yourself plenty of time, understand that it's an adventure, and go for it! They're beautiful edgings for the designs that want them, and well worth the time and effort. Feel free to share with me your own experiences, tips, or ask questions. FMQ Station: It's time to get the next party started!! This is getting pin-basted today. I have chemical sensitivity and some systemic health issues that I protect from carcinogenics like the propellant in spray cans, so I pass up all the basting sprays. Hounds' Blues is 60 x 60 inches. I succeeded once again at keeping everything limited to what was already in my stash! I was even able to Frankenstein some Hobbs Heirloom batting pieces together for it. I splice them using this overlapped and curvy cutting approach shown by Anne. I call it "Frankensteining" because I don't buy the iron-on tape - it's easy and quick enough to just whipstitch the joins. I use big stitches, approaching an inch apart and spanning a 1/4 inch either side of the gap. They look like Frankenstein stitches! Or big football stitches. And they go very, very quickly. You just snug it enough to make the gap disappear but not enough to make a ridge. See how hard it is to find that join? It likes to pull a little loose when you lift the batting, but just smooth it all snug again when you layer your quilt sandwich. If you baste sufficiently (whatever your favorite method), you will have no pull-away or bunching. Works like a charm. [I need to add this qualifier: if the quilt is going to have fairly wide-spaced quilting (like 4" apart or so), you'd need to use much closer stitches to keep it more stable. At that point, I'd probably opt for the ease of the iron-on tapes. ;D] For myself, I have not had good results zigzagging batting seams in the machine - They like to bunch or stretch, and I find the resulting depression still detectable after the quilt is finished. (Although I'm sure it would disappear completely in something that is hyper-quilted.) Piecing Station: Just started going through my scrap bin, cutting blues and whites into log cabin pieces for the next gift needed. They'll grow up into Run, Kitty, Run, but right now this station does not get priority. ~*~*~*~*~ Linking up at Lee's WIP Quiltsy WIP Esther's WOW Leah's UFO Sunday

This is a quick step by step photo tutorial today on how to join straight binding strips when you need a piece longer than the width of your fabric. If using quilting cotton, which is

Here are some easy steps for making your binding corners square and professional.

Essentials Pindots is a classic collection of pindots on white, black, yellow, red, blue and more amazing colors. Great to add this simple fabric for borders, binding and backing. Great for quilts, home decor and apparel.

Wondering How to Finish a Quilt? Top US quilting blog, Diary of a Quilter, features an Easy DIY Tutorial for Finishing and Binding a Quilt. Click here now!!

Disclaimer: I am not a Real Quilter. I have never taken a quilting class before, nor do I have any other kind of training in the quilting department besides that...

The easiest cheat for binding a quilt is the easy quilt is just the trick you need. Get our easy quilt binding cheat and get that quilt finished!

Learn how to easily calculate quilt binding taking into account the size of the quilt and the extra binding needed to turn corners and join ends.

Cool Cats fabric kit includes cat blocks, sashing, folded border, outside border and all fabrics for cat applique pieces to make the nine block version. The fabrics are the same as shown in the photo. The quilt backing, binding, and muslin to back light fabrics are not included. Cool Cats quilt pattern includes full size patterns, full size placement sheets, and instructions to make a 31 1/2" x 31 1/2" wall hanging or a 31 1/2" x 39" wallhanging. The technique is fusible applique. The block size is 7" x 7".

Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!

BEGINNER QUILT KIT created with squares and strips using 100% cotton fabric from Timeless Treasures Love You to the Moon with complementing fabrics from Bunnies by the Bay (Timeless Treasures) and QT Fabrics Celestial Collection.  DIY Easy Beginner Quilt Kit.   Two colorway choices - celestial border or moon and stars border Quilt Finished size: 50" x 68"Panel is 24" x WOF100% Cotton Quilt Top and Binding  (Backing sold separately) KIT INCLUDES: --->Picture This Pattern--->Love you to the Moon 24" Panel by Timeless Treasures--->5 FQ fabrics and yardage to complete the top & binding of your Quilt total of approximately 4 yards of fabric--->Additional pattern insert with notes, and image of one possible fabric arrangement                                                    (***Please read note below)BACKING SOLD SEPARATELY  OTHER IMPORTANT INFO: The pattern calls for 42 five-inch squares.  You will have some leftover fabric to cut additional squares or for other uses.  You can choose to arrange your squares in any way you like. The image advertised is one possible arrangement.Fiber Content: 100% Cotton BACKING NEEDED TO COMPLETE QUILT:Backing Yardage figured using RK (Robert Kaufman) Quilting Calculator; due to the directional nature of suggested fabrics, you should calculate with the fabric running the length of the quilt. Cotton fabric will require a seam down the center. Shannon Cuddle with fit across the width of the quilt; therefore less fabric is needed. 4 yards of Cotton Fabric (43/45 width) (SOLD SEPARATELY but available on this listing)or2 yards of Cuddle Minky (58/60 width) (SOLD SEPARATELY) ADDITIONAL MATERIALS NEEDED:Batting, if desired (may not need if choosing cuddle minky for your backing)all-purpose threadrotary cutter, mat, and ruler or your usual cutting suppliesbasic sewing suppliesbacking material FREE SHIPPING--Quilt Kit is sealed in envelope, additional envelope or bubble envelope. Shipped securely with insurance by USPS or UPS.***The Quilt Instructions in this kit are “Picture This” from Little Louise Designs with complementing design layout and fabric choices by Angels Neverland.com. All rights reserved - copyright 2014 - LLD-091. Per Little Louise Designs, Quilts may be made and sold using this pattern as long as credit is given for the design to Jude Spero - Little Louise Designs.***Please note finished product samples are computer generated as a sample of what your quilt may look like and may not match your finished design exactly due to variations in sizing of fabric print.

Here is a helpful technique from Beth Ann Doing for self-binding a quilt. Binding a quilt is something quilters either love or hate. Personally, I like it because it means my piece is almost done…

Most quilters find the binding step to be the most time-consuming part of making a quilt but it doesn't have to be if you use your sewing machine. This method is a popular way to finish a quilt that both saves time (compared to hand sewing) and completes the quilt by giving it a nicely finished border edge. We personally sew all of our binding using a sewing machine as it's quick and easy and to be honest, we really don't like hand sewing all that much. This tutorial goes over the basics of quilt binding plus it illustrates the

Learn how to create scrappy quilt binding like I did for my rainbow star mini quilt - a great way to use up the scraps from your quilt piecing.

Handy video from quilt designer Patrick Lose gives you an easy way to make perfect corners when you bind a quilt. #quiltbinding, #quiltingforbeginners

Such a delicate touch and so easy to do. Choose your contrasting fabric and learn how to add a flange to your binding, giving just the right pop to your quilt!

There is an easier way to bind a quilt: use the backing fabric. Learn how in this tutorial from NewQuilters.com. #bindingaquilteasy, bindingaquilttutorial

Do you like machine binding and decorative stitches? Combine the two and create beautiful decorative stitch binding.

A quilt top which I’d started on ages ago had been shouting at me to get it finished as it’s for a Christmas present. When I began making it, my 3yr old had kept saying how much he love…

I made a doll quilt before Christmas and realized I’d never posted a tutorial on this quick and easy binding method. Since I know a lot of you are beginners…this is a really great way to dip your toes into binding a quilt. I especially love it for small things like hot pads,...Read More

tutorial on joining the ends of quilt binding

FREE SHIP AT $35 This flexible basic print features tiny dots randomly arranged on several colorways. It’s a great blender, backing, makes fabulous borders and of course dots are always great for binding. Several colorways of Moonscape are offered for sale in my shop. This particular one is scattered bright white dots on white cotton. Choose Your Length: Fat Quarter…(18” x 21”) ¼ Yard…(9” x WOF) ½ Yard…(18” x WOF) ¾ yard…(27” x’ WOF) Full Yard…(36” x WOF ) All fabric will be cut into one continuous piece from the bolt unless otherwise stated. 100% Premium Cotton - Medium weight fabric. Machine wash cold gentle cycle, tumble dry low gentle cycle. Fabric holds its shape well making it an excellent choice for quilting, sewing, clothing and craft projects!! FREE SHIPPING at $35 otherwise $4.50 flat rate.

This blanket stitch tip represents another way to add colorful threads and a decorative edge to the your next quilt. Try for yourself.

Quilt bindings are the most magical, and sometime confusing part of quilt making, especially for a new quilter! I shared a tutorial a few years back, but have adapted and made a few changes as I’ve grown as a quilter, and thought it was enough to update the post. Any tips or suggestions you might […]

A free tutorial for a sweet and simple whole-cloth baby quilt with a soft minky backing. Get a nicely finished edge with this simple self-binding technique!

Essentials Pindots is a classic collection of pindots on white, black, yellow, red, blue and more amazing colors. Great to add this simple fabric for borders, binding and backing. Great for quilts, home decor and apparel.

Happy New Year! I hope you all had a safe and fun time over the last few days. We had a pretty low-key holiday, starting with a birthday party for a niece on New Year’s Eve. We stayed up …

How to Join Quilt Binding Ends Step by Step complete with video

The first time I made a quilt I wasn't quite sure how to sew on the binding. I spent a lot of time making a quilt for my mom's 80th birthday, and I didn't want to mess it up by doing a poor job on the binding. Fortunately, I have a co-worker friend who is an avid quilter and gave me a super easy way to bind it.

There are many options when adding binding to your quilt....I have had a lot of success using a French Binding and here is the method I use. To begin I measure the perimeter of my quilt top and add 10 inches to that measurement...that will be the amount of binding I will need to cover the quilt top. I cut my strips 2.5 inches (from selvedge edge to selvedge edge)... Sew the strips together by placing two strips perpendicular to each other and right sides facing...draw a line from the top left corner to the lower right corner. Stitch on the drawn line....and trim away the excess fabric.... Stitch all strips end to end in the same manner. Once all the strips are stitched together - press lengthwise wrong sides together.... Open the strip up and... Take the top right hand corner of your binding strip and bring the corner down to meet the bottom of the strip... Fold the strip together again...this will become a pocket a little later. You will begin and end stitching at this point. I usually begin adding the binding to the quilt top about 1/3rd. of the way in on one side of the quilt. Place the raw edge of the binding strip to the raw edge of the quilt top... Begin sewing (1/4 inch seam allowance) with the binding open. Mark with a pin 1 inch past where the bottom of the folded corner meets the binding strip. Stitch from the top of the binding to the pin - which is marking the 1 inch mark. Now fold the binding together again and begin stitching again at the point where you ended stitching at the 1 inch mark.... Now you have created the pocket where the end of the quilt will be tucked in! Continue stitching until you are a 1/4 inch from the corner of the quilt...then stop and take the quilt out of the machine. Fold the binding straight up.... Then fold the binding back down. Start stitching again a scant 1/4 inch from the corner. Now the binding will be added to the next side of the quilt. Repeat this for all four corners of the quilt. Once the 4th corner is complete....and you are nearing the pocket ( beginning of the binding)...line the remainder of the binding up with the point where you began stitching the binding (both layers of binding).... Cut the excess tail of binding to this point....now slip the tail into the pocket... Stitch from the where you stopped to the point where the binding is stitched together with both layers....fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and stitch by hand. I hope this is clear...and helpful....just drop me a line if you have any questions :) Mary

Finished quilt measures 71" x 71". It is pictured using our Mama's Said Sew fabric collection. You will need: Cream Fabric - 3 1/2 yd. (blocks and middle border) Black Print Fabric - 4 1/3 yd. (Blocks, two borders and binding) Backing - 5 yd. Batting - 80" x 80" This pattern will be sent to you as a download. If you are wanting a hard copy instead please convo us. Thanks!

This is a very quick and simple way to bind a quilt! Once you’re done…

There’s No Reason To Get Lumpy Corners In Your Binding. Use these techniques to get your binding just perfect! Binding can spoil a beautiful quilt that you have spent so much time nurturing, from choo

There is an easier way to bind a quilt: use the backing fabric. Learn how in this tutorial from NewQuilters.com. #bindingaquilteasy, bindingaquilttutorial

One of the things that I forgot to tell you in the last blog entry is why I sew the strips in the backing on an angle to lengthen or widen the fabric to fit the quilt. There are two reasons I do it this way instead of perfectly straight across or vertically. The first reason is because if you do it my way you don't have to be so careful when layering the quilt to get it straight on the backing. With my method you can be off a little and it will never be seen but with adding a strip parallel to the sides you need to be much more exact and keep that strip you added very straight and parallel to the top and sides as you layer the quilt. The second reason is that it takes less fabric to add more width to the backing. Yes - I said exactly what I meant. I will show you an example using orange copy paper. This first photo is of the copy paper before I cut it. (Pretend it is a piece of fabric you want to use for a quilt but it is too narrow to fit the quilt. First you make a diagonal cut lengthwise across the fabric (orange paper). The cut can be at any angle but make sure each end of the cut lands somewhere on the top and bottom of the fabric like the cut on the paper below. The next photo shows a ruler laid on the space (pretend I stitched a strip of fabric in this cut area.) It measures 1 1/2" Now comes the interesting part, remember I said it took less fabric to widen the backing if you put it on an angle? Well look at the next photo with the ruler laid on the area that would have the strip stitched in. It measures 1/8" less than the first measurement. This isn't much but remember this is a small piece of paper and not a large piece of backing for a quilt. Think in terms of a backing to make a large quilt and a larger strip could be stitched in and it would be a bigger difference in measurement. Another thing to note is the longer the cut (stretching it out and starting closer to the corners farther apart) the larger the difference in the two measurements will be and the more width you will get out of your strips. Look at the two photos below for this example. How you might interpret this into a real quilt is if you need a bigger amount to make the backing wide enough you might want to make your cut longer and cut almost corner to corner. I would caution you with this though, try not to make your cut the same difference from each of the corners and you won't have to be so particular on how you layer your quilt. (My examples are a little too even for my tastes.) Notice the ruler above measures 1 1/2" and the one below is 1 1/4" so it is a greater width gained by making the cut at a bigger angle. Does that make sense? The above examples are how to make the backing wider and the one photo below is how to make it longer to fit the quilt. You just cut from the right to the left sides. The same thing applies as to the longer the cut, the more you will gain in width from your strips. I hope this explains some of what I did on the Linus Quilt backing. I cut both ways on that backing. First I inserted the blue strip. I cut some of the length I added off so that is why it isn't placed exactly on the left side or right side. After stitching that strip in I re-cut it the other direction and added the white colored strip. Makes an interesting back and made my red fabric big enough for the backing of this quilt. As you can tell I didn't have enough of any of the light fabrics so they are pieced and I had to piece the length of blue too to make it long enough to fit in my cut. If anyone asks about this interesting back I will just tell them it is a design element not that it was necessary to make it big enough. I like to use a contrasting fabric from the main backing fabric to make it look like I intended to do it that way. You could use backing fabric to insert but the contrasting fabric is more interesting I think. Any of you math whizzes out there probably already know this and I am sure there is some geometry theorem that explains all of this but it has been too many years since I studied geometry. It works for me and that is what is important! Have most of my stuff ready for convention now - can't wait until Thursday. Lynn

Print These Charts and Keep Them Handy! It’s so easy to pick up a few extra fat quarters when fabric shopping. They tend to catch the eye and can be bought individually or packaged in a bundle with others. Either way, they’re relatively inexpensive and often an impulse buy. But, what is a fat quarter, …

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