El otro día publiqué el último bolso que me he hecho. Como cuando empecé a coser me costó al principio encontrar como hacer el cierre de los bolsos he decidido publicar un tutorial para hacerlo. …
A lady I work with would like a basic tote bag, but with a zipper. I have tried a few different ways so far and wanted to show you one today, even though it didn’t really work out the way I wanted it to. I looked at different tutorials online and pictures of recessed zippers […]
A complete step by step sewing tutorial on how to put zippers into zippered pouches.
¡¡¡¡Buenasssss!!! Seguimos con el patchwork y las cremalleras superiores, esta vez aplicadas a una bolsa tipo «tote». Ya llegan las fallas y la primavera y la tela vaquera da mucho juego en estas f…
A un buen oficinista jamás debe faltarle su lonchera. Asì que ¿Por qué no tener la mejor?
Written plus video tutorial shows you how to sew a zipper pouch - great practice for zippers and fun and quick gifts to make
"Using continuous zipper tape with zipper pulls can greatly reduce the time it takes to sew pouches, pencil cases and bags! it's so easy to sew these quick sew pouches, no sewing past zipper pulls! learn how to easily and quickly add the zipper pulls after sewing the zip! For this project i used size 5 zipper tape with Zipper pulls and made 2 pouches in the time it take to sew 1! This tutorial is perfect for those who sell their crafts at markets or online, get efficient and beautiful sewing results every time!"
Hace mucho tiempo que tengo ganas de hacer un monedero de cremallellas, para poneros el tutorial. Se necesita una cremallera de...
Written plus video tutorial shows you how to sew a zipper pouch - great practice for zippers and fun and quick gifts to make
¡¡¡¡Buenasssss!!! Seguimos con el patchwork y las cremalleras superiores, esta vez aplicadas a una bolsa tipo «tote». Ya llegan las fallas y la primavera y la tela vaquera da mucho juego en estas f…
It has been a while since my last tutorial! My hope is that a beginner seamstress will find the instructions and pictures easy to use and the expert seamstress will gain inspiration on how to apply this technique to other projects! Let's Go! Lined Purse with a Zipper! Materials: 1. 4 pieces of equal sized fabrics. The ones shown here are cut to 8in. x 4.5". 2. 1 zipper, longer than the length of your fabric. Steps: 1. Place the outer fabric face up andlay the zipper face down on top. Line the up the edges. *Notice my zipper is way larger than my fabric. This is not a problem as I will cut off both sides when I am complete. The nice thing about using larger zippers is that I can position the zipper pull off my fabric so that I do not have to sew around it. Using larger zippers mean that I also have a zipper on hand and not one that is too short for my project. 3. Place the lining fabric face down on the zipper and line up the edges. 3. Pin all three layers together. 4. Using a zipper foot, sew all three layers together. 5. Remove pins and it should look like this! 6. Iron seams, fold back lining and iron again. 7. Place second piece of outer fabric face up. Then place zipper on top face down. 8. Place lining fabric face down on top of zipper and line up all edges. 9. Pin the three layers together and sew together as before. 10. Remove pins, iron seams, fold back lining and iron again. 11. One side should look like this: 12. The other side should look like this: 13. Pick up just the lining pieces so that the right sides are together. 14. Place on table with lining right sides together and outer fabric pieces together. 15. Unfold one side and unzip zipper half-way. This is a crucial step and yet soooo easy to forget. 16. Pin edges together. Zipper should be folded toward the outer fabric. 17. Sew around edges with 1.2 in. seam and leave about a 2in opening on the side edge of lining fabric. 18. Trim edges and clip corners. 19. Yes, cut right through the zipper on either side. 20. Reach through the opening and turn the purse outside in! 21. Once turned, pull lining out and finger press the opening. 22. Sew the opening closed with your machine as close to the edge of the fabric as possible. Just go slow. *Note* You can slip stitch this opening closed by hand. I have found that with the opeing on the side and not the bottom of the lining it is less noticeable and therefore, a machine stitch is not noticed either. 23. Push the lining back in and iron! Voila!
Coser cremalleras va a ser pan comido tras ver este vídeo tutorial. No me lo podría creer pero ahora puedo decir que es la forma más fácil del mundo.
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¡Cremalleras, cremalleras, y más cremalleras! Por si no te había quedado claro, las cremalleras son un insumo ESENCIAL para la confección y, aprenderlas a coser de diferentes maneras es superimportante. Anteriormente, expliqué cómo coser una Leer más…
Lo prometido es deuda, aquí tenéis el tutorial para hacer monederos con cremalleras. Mi profe de patch se explica muy bien, a ver a ...
En muchos de mis tutoriales me has visto poner cremalleras pero en el post de hoy vamos a ver muy despacio y muy de cerca cómo se hace para despejar todas las dudas. Una cosa aparentemente tan simple como una cremallera tiene su mecanismo, su historia y sus partes. No voy a aburrirte con un […]
Desde hace un tiempo tenía ganas de hacer este tutorial porque a mi me encanta coser bolsos, y de hecho, antes hacía unos más sencillos que este para vender en la universidad. Hoy te traigo Leer más…
Zipper tabs are functional, plus add detail. Learn zipper anatomy and how to reduce a zipper by adding fabric tabs. Details you need to know when sewing.
How to make cute block zipper pouch / handbag. DIY photo tutorial
As promised... A lining can add a lot to a bag. In this case, I added a lining made with home decor weight cotton and it added sturdiness to my "It's a Cinch Bag". You could also add a lining with a pretty printed fabric to give an old bag new interest. Don't let zippers scare you. I promise they're very easy to sew with. You don't need a special zipper foot, just your regular old presser foot will do just fine. Give it a shot! What do you have to lose? Here's what you'll need: A sturdy lining Fabric or if you prefer a pretty patterned fabric to add something to your bag Zippers One longer than the width of your bag (mine was 22") And a couple more if you want internal pockets in your bag (mine were 7") Twill Tape or Ribbon (i used about a 1 1/3 yard) Let's get started! First you want to cut 2 pieces of fabric to the dimensions of your bag plus 1 inch. My bag was 20" x 20" so I cut two sections of fabric to 21" x 21" Lay your long zipper across the top of the bag face down. If my fabric was patterned I would place my zipper face down on the wrong side of the fabric. Pin all the way across. Sew the zipper to the fabric with about a 1/4" inseam. Lay this section of fabric zipper side down, again on the wrong side, of your other piece of fabric. The zipper should be lined up with the top of the second piece of fabric. Pin across. Stitch across. Iron down the seams you just sewed. Top stitch just next to your zipper. Now you'll need to sew on your twill tape to cover up the raw edges of your seams. Time to add some pockets. Lay your zipper down on the bag lining and mark to the right of the zipper pull and the left of the end clasp like so. In hindsight, I wish I had done this on the other side of the fabric so that I didn't have red lines showing in my finished product. Oh well, no one sees it anyway! Draw a rectangle the length of the lines you just drew and just shorter than the width of your zipper. Cut the rectangle as shown: Press so that you have a nice even rectangle. Lay your zipper over this opening and pin in place. Stitch around the perimeter. Cut a small section of fabric for the lining of your actual pocket. You can make the pocket as big as you like depending on how big you cut this piece of fabric. Sew around the perimeter of your pocket. Add another pocket if you like. Now with the zipper tab up, line your pieces of fabric up. Sew down the sides and bottom with a 1/2" inseam. Whew! Now you have a lining. All that's left to do is sew it to your bag. Insert the lining into your bag. Match up the seams of the lining with the seams of the bag and pin in place. Pin all the way around. Stitch all the way around, under the straps, and you're done! Now you have an awesome lining for your purse complete with pockets for all your knick knacks! Linking to... http://www.iheartnaptime.net/ http://www.bystephanielynn.com/ http://thediyshowoff.blogspot.com/ ...
UPDATE 2016: there's a new Dritz/Lo-Ran zipper which is DESIGNED for knitting into garments. Somebody over at Dritz was really thinking smart! It's a little bit hard to find, but the article numbers are: Oatmeal 20" 40067, Oatmeal 10" 40065, Black 20" 40068, Black 10" 40066. I'm not associated with the manufacturer in any way, nor do I get anything from the sale of these zippers. I do think they are a smart specialty item directed at hand-knitters, and therefore want to support the concept. These zippers have a loose-woven section which makes knitting into them easier. However, as per my original article, below, you really can turn ANY zipper into a knitable object, so if you can't find these specialty zippers, or you need a zipper in a different color, read on... * * * This article about installing zippers was featured in the winter 2010 issue of Interweave Knits. TECHknitting blog has had a few posts which refer to this technique, but the details have never been actually published to the internet. The copyright has now reverted to me, and TECHknitting blog is publishing all the details for the first time, complete with illustrations. There is also an accompanying video in which Knits' editor, Eunny Jang, demo's the how-to. * * * Do you avoid making zippered knitwear because of the sewing involved? Here's a way to install zippers with no sewing at all. Instead, you literally KNIT the zipper in. To prep the zipper to perform this magic trick, we'll borrow a tool used in rug-making and machine knitting--the latch hook. INTRO TO LATCH HOOKS (KNIT-PICKER) Latch hooks come in many sizes, but the one for us is a miniature version called a "knit-picker" or "snag-fixer." Available in fabric stores for a couple of bucks, these are meant for pulling snags to the inner surface of industrial knits such as polyester polo shirts. We, however, are going to use this mini-latch hook for our own hand-knitting purposes: to pull yarn loops through the fabric tape of the zipper--perfectly spaced loops which can then be picked up and knitted (or bound off). In essence, a latch hook is nothing more than a foolproof crochet hook--foolproof because the little latch can swing open to catch the yarn, then swung shut, trapping the yarn under the hook. Once the yarn is safely caught under the hook and the gate latched shut, the loaded hook can be drawn through even the tightest hole without any danger of the yarn fraying or splitting, because the latch locks the yarn in. Close-up of knit-picker, with latch open (L) and shut (R) Specifically, in our use, the latch is going to be swung open, then the hook is going to be poked through the zipper tape at a pre-marked spot, shown by red dots on the illustrations below. Next, the latch will be closed to lock the yarn onto the hook. The locked, loaded hook is then drawn through the zipper tape. Once drawn through, the latch opens and the hook is removed, depositing the yarn loop neatly on the front of the zipper tape. KNIT-ABLE OBJECT As you know, any two pieces of knitting COULD be attached by sewing, but there are also NON-SEWING ways of attaching knitting together. For example, if two pieces of knitting have open (live) loops, the three needle bind-off can be used to seam them together. To seam together a line of open loops to a line of closed loops, or to seam together two lines of closed loops (closed loops=bind off edge, or cast-on edge, or side selvedge) you can use slip-stitching. By using the knit-picker to insert loops (open OR closed) onto the surface of the zipper tape, you're turning the zipper tape into a knit-able object. Once the zipper is knit-able, it can be seamed or attached to a piece of knitting just as easily as any other two pieces of knitting could be, with no sewing necessary. INSERTING OPEN (LIVE) or CLOSED LOOPS via the KNIT PICKER There are two basic methods for inserting loops into a zipper tape--open (live) loops or a chain of closed loops. For open loops, you can simply pick up loops as you draw them through to the top surface of the zipper tape, then deposit them onto a knitting needle, as shown below. Creating open (live) loops In order to get a line of closed loops (a chain of loops on the surface of the tape) you pull loops up, each through the previous loop, leaving a chain of slipped stitches on the top surface of the zipper tape. These chain stitches provide the anchor for further manipulation. As indicated above, the open-loop method is analogous to a line of live loops, while the chain method is more like a bound-off or cast-on edge, or a side selvedge. Choose the method of drawing through loops depending on what your planned method of attachment will be. Creating closed (chained) loops NOTE: In the illustrations above, the latch hook is not to scale: in real life the hook and latch assembly is FAR, FAR SMALLER than shown. The head of a real knit-picker is tiny! In both the open-loop and the closed-loop illustrations above, "a" indicates the position of the latch hook--open to insert, closed to withdraw; "b" indicates the loops pulled through: looped over a knitting needle for the live-loop method, or chained onto the face of the zipper tape for the closed-loop method; "c" indicates the method of inserting the latch hook--directly through the zipper tape, then lifted onto a knitting needle for the live loop method; or through the previous loop and the zipper tape for the closed-loop chain method. In both illustrations, the green dotted line indicates the path of the yarn running under the zipper tape--both methods yield what looks like a neat row of running stitches on the back of the zipper tape With the loops pulled through the zipper tape via the live-loop method, this closed-bottom zipper is ready to be installed, perhaps in the top of a purse, for example SPACING Once you determine the finished zipper length needed (more on zipper length below) you count the number of rows or stitches along the garment edge where you will install the zipper. Mark off dots, one for each loop wanted, evenly spaced. Keeping the marks in a straight line is easy. Zipper tapes are usually woven with sewing guide lines right on them--a sometimes subtle, sometimes obvious pattern running lengthwise up the tape, shown as light gray dotted lines in the illustrations. LOOP SIZE In the open (live) loop method, each loop will necessarily be the same size because they are caught around the barrel of a knitting needle. In the closed loop (chain) method, however, it is a bit more difficult. Because the barrel of the latch hook is tiny, drawing up each loop snug around the hook's barrel would over-tighten the loops. You can proceed freehand--drawing up each loop just so, as shown in the illustration, or for a more sure thing, you can temporarily insert a dpn of appropriate size into each loop as you make it, then snug up the loop over the needle barrel, then remove the dpn. This makes each loop the same size, as long as you're careful to not over-tighten the slack away as you draw up the next loop. ADJUSTING ZIPPER LENGTH Zippers rarely come in the exact length wanted. To shorten a non-separating (closed bottom) zipper --the kind you'd install in a purse-top, for example--shorten it by working from the bottom, as shown: First, sew a new stop. Then, snip to length. The snipped end is hidden inside the purse. Sew a new stop (top picture) then cut (bottom picture) to shorten a closed-bottom (non-separating) zipper For a separating zipper--the kind you would use for a sweater front, for example--you can sew a new stop at each top in a similar manner, then snip away the excess zipper tape. Alternatively, if there's only an inch or so of excess at the top, simply fold the excess zipper out of the way at a 90 degree angle to the top of the garment, then sew the excess along the garment edge with the teeth pointing down. If you cut a nylon or polyester zipper tape, consider lightly heat-sealing the edge with a match: for safety, work over a sink with the water running, just in case the tape flares. TROUBLESHOOTING and TIPS *Latch hooks take some getting used to. To control the latch's tendency to poke and tangle, use your thumb to flip and hold it it down (open) for insertion and again for yarn-catching, then snap it shut once it's loaded with yarn and before withdrawing through the zipper tape. *Because of its stiff and inflexible nature, nylon or polyester zipper tape will fold over on itself along the line of the pick-up. With use and wear, the tape will eventually soften. Washing first might soften an excessively stiff zipper tape. *Although tiny, the latch hook can pull along yarns up to and including most chunky-weights. However, the thicker the yarn pulled through the tape, the more zipper-buckling you will get. To reduce buckling, create the loops on the zipper tape using a thinner color-matched yarn: sock yarn is perfect because it is both thin and strong. Alternatively, you can catch one loop through the zipper tape for each TWO stitches wanted. This reduced buckling by halving the amount of yarn inserted into the zipper tape. With this two-for-one trick, you must double the stitch count in the next row, perhaps by inserting a backwards (or forward) loop increase alternate with each loop on the tape, or working each loop as a kfb. *Whether you are working with a closed-bottom (non-separating) zipper or a separating one, it's best to pick up stitches with the zipper opened or separated: makes the work go easier. *Poking the latch hook through a tightly-woven zipper tape goes quicker if you've used a large sharp sewing needle or small awl to pre-poke the holes. ADDENDUM, March 2021: Here's a little trick I just discovered. If you get to a spot where the zipper tape seems thick or hard to poke through, simply hook the knit picker through the eye of the crewel needle (crewel needle = sharp tip, large eye) and draw the needle through, dragging the knit picker behind it. More on this little project at Ravelry. *An INGENUOUS method of poking holes and getting perfect spacing at the same time involves using a sewing machine--but not to sew the zipper in. Instead, you run the sewing machine blank (no thread) adjusting the stitch length to the gauge you want, and thus punching a line of perfectly-spaced holes in a straight line down the tape. Putting a huge (like for sewing leather) needle into the machine makes the punched hole bigger and easier to see. Thanks to reader Valsew for this tip. * * * Related post: Knit-pickers aren't just for adding zippers. They can be used to work in ends, also. Keep knitting! -- TK
These little zip-up bags/pouches were super fun to make and are very handy for storing items, including my set of Clover Amour Crochet Hooks!
DIY Fabric Tray Pouch Free Sewing Patterns + Video
I have been crocheting tons of pouches lately and I love lining them with a coordinating fabric and finishing them with a zipper. I'm not an expert at sewing by any means, but this method works for me. I use it every time and I am always happy with the results. I hope you enjoy this tutorial! In the pictures shown in this tutorial, I am lining the Lee Change Purse. But, this method will work for any pouch...just adjust the fabric and zipper sizes. Materials needed- for the fabric lining & zipper (if desired): • 5" zipper • Fabric- 2 pieces that are roughly 5" high by 6"wide •Needle & thread •Sewing machine (optional) •a few ball head straight pins Finished size: • Lee Change Purse- 4" high by 5" wide Making the Lining: 1. Cut out 2 pieces of fabric that are about 1/2-inch larger around than your pouch. 2. Lay one piece of the fabric, right side up, on your worktop. Place the zipper, right side up, on top of the fabric, centered. 3. Sew along the top edge of the zipper. Use a zipper foot if you can, it's so much easier than using a regular foot like I did. 4. Flip the fabric over and fold the zipper back, so that it is laying flat on the wrong side of the fabric. 5. Now sew along this side. You can sew along the same line you just made. The right side of the fabric will look like this now. 6. Lay your other piece of fabric right side up. Then, place the zippered piece on it so that the right side of the zipper is facing up and is lined up along the top edge of the right side-facing fabric piece. 7. Sew along the top edge of the zipper. 8. Again, flip open the fabric and sew along the zipper again. After you sew, the inside of the fabric will look like this. 9. Fold the fabric closed so that the zipper lays flat and secure it closed we a few pins along the zipper line. 10. Lay your pouch on top of the fabric. Line the top of the pouch up with the zipper. 11. Trace a line around the pouch using a pen or pencil. 12. Pin the fabric together. 13. Sew just inside (maybe about 1/8" inside) the line you just traced on the fabric. It does not have to be perfect so don't stress out about it. 14. Trim away the extra fabric. 15. Remove your pins and see how the lining fits inside of your pouch. If it seems too bulky/big, sew another line inside the one you sewed before and then trim away extra fabric again. If it fits just right, then proceed on to attach it to your pouch. 16. Use a few pins to hold the lining to the pouch while you sew it in. Use a needle and thread for this part. You are going to hide your stitches in between the crochet and the fabric (where the wrong sides touch). Work right along the zipper line. In the inside of the pouch, you will see the inside of your stitches along the zipper line. On the outside of the pouch you will not see any stitches. Go from the inside zipper line, out to under the row of slip stitches on the pouch. When coming back the other way, go under the row of slip stitches, making sure the thread will be hidden when you pull tight, to the zipper line. Continue this around. Make sure you pull each stitch tightly so that the lining is completely secured to the outer pouch. When you have gone all the way around, secure the thread with a few small knots that are hidden under the crochet portion. Cut the thread. Remove the pins. And enjoy! You did it :) Here is what it looks all finished :) Skein and Hook Copyright © 2014 The pattern and photographs contained in this document are the property of Skein and Hook. This pattern is available for personal use only. This pattern may be printed for your personal use only. You may not in any form copy, redistribute, sell, or represent this pattern or photos as your own. Please do not copy this post and claim it as your own. Please do not republish photos from this post and claim them as your own. You are welcomed to sell the items that you make from this pattern- please just credit me as the designer with a link to this post.
Como muchos sabéis, he sido bastante autodidacta en el mundo de la costura. Cada proyecto me enseña algo. Siempre. Y aunque personalmente no tengo excesivos problemas al coser cremalleras, sé que es algo bastante común, así que espero que este post pueda ser útil para muchos de vosotros. Existe un problema muy típico a la hora de coser cremalleras en bolsas con forro. No sabes por qué, a veces te queda genial, y otras veces los bordes de la cremallera quedan como pellizcados, Todo depende del modo en que colocamos los dientes de la cremallera al coser los laterales. La dirección hacia la que pongamos la cremallera hará que al darle la vuelta quede más o menos pulido. Y os preguntaréis, vale, pero ¿cuál es la manera correcta de hacerlo? Cuando coses una cremallera a un monedero o bolso con forro, una vez tienes cosida la cremallera a las telas, lo colocas de manera que las telas exteriores se toquen por la parte bonita (derecho con derecho), y que las telas del forro se toquen también por la tela bonita. Entonces coses todo el borde exterior excepto un pequeño trozo en el borde por el que le daremos la vuelta. Aquí veis como queda si apuntamos los dientes de la cremallera hacia el forro, o si los apuntamos hacia la tela exterior. Así que tenedlo en cuenta, cuando coses todo el borde alrededor, la cremallera debe estar doblada de manera que los dientes encaren la tela del forro. Con este pequeño truco tu cremallera quedará impecable. Vía Sew Delicious
¡Cremalleras, cremalleras, y más cremalleras! Por si no te había quedado claro, las cremalleras son un insumo ESENCIAL para la confección y, aprenderlas a coser de diferentes maneras es superimportante. Anteriormente, expliqué cómo coser una Leer más…
Hacer cojines para decorar tu casa es un proyecto muy entretenido ya que son fáciles de hacer y sale más económico que comprar unos ya hechos (además que tienes la libertad de escoger el material Leer más…
CONFECCIONAR CON LOS DIFERENTES PRENSATELAS :El prensatelas es un elemento clave para complementar la máquina de coser. Económicos y potentes.
Pierde el miedo a coser cremalleras con este recopilatorio en el que te muestro todos los tutoriales básicos para ello, en vídeo y paso a paso.
Welcome back to Top Ten Tuesday! Did you grow up with a mother, grandmother, dad, grandfather or other person in your life that were quilters or seamstresses or tailors? If so, you may have been h…
Learn how to install an invisible zipper properly on a pillow in this step-by-step tutorial by Jona Giammalva. -Sewtorial
Tissu en nylon . Grande taille. Style shopper. Fermeture Éclair. Doublure. 52.0x15.0x29.0 cm (Long x Grand x Large)
