One of my friends is about to become a first time grandmother. She's a quilter and has been sewing like crazy. She knew that I was making a pattern for a baby blanket with satin binding and begged me to show her how to attach it. This tutorial is for her and for all of you who have wondered how to make the binding look neat and professional. The puppy applique will be found in my Craftsy pattern, “Doggy in the Window” baby blanket. Finished Measurements: Approximately 34" x 40" Materials: · 2 yards of baby flannel · 1 package of satin blanket binding · matching thread Preparing the Blanket for Binding 1. Prewash two yards of baby flannel in warm water. Prewashing is essential because the flannel will shrink a lot. 2. Press the flannel and cut it in half. 3. If you are adding an applique, do it now, before you put the front and back pieces of fabric together. 4. Lay the two flannel pieces wrong sides together on a cutting mat. The right sides of the fabric will be facing out. 5. Cut through both layers with a rotary cutter to square up the sides. You can usually get a rectangle of about 34” x 40”. 6. Pin the pieces together and stay-stitch around the outside edges of the flannel. You could zigzag or serge the edges instead if you like. About the Binding Satin blanket binding usually comes in package containing 4 3/4 yards of 2-inch single fold satin. It is found in most fabric stores on the same display case that contains rickrack, seam binding, and bias tape. When you examine the bias tape you’ll see that one folded side is slightly wider than the other. This wider side will go on the back of the blanket. The cut ends of the binding fray very easily, so care will need to be taken to prevent your binding fraying apart at any seams. Attaching the Binding 1. Lay your unbound blanket on a flat surface. (I use an ironing board.) 2. Open the binding and slid it under one side of the blanket. Make sure the wider side of the binding is against the back of the blanket. Leave about an inch of binding overlapping the corner. 3. Snug the blanket right up against the fold all along this side. 4. Fold the blanket binding up and over the front of the blanket. Pin in place. 5. Set your machine to make a wide zigzag stitch. On my machine the width was set at 5 and the stitch length was 1.4. 6. Do not start stitching right at the corner. Begin about 6 inches in from that. You will need to keep that much the binding unattached for creating a neat corner seam later on. 7. Overlap the zigzag stitch so that it falls partly on the satin and partly on the flannel. 8. Stitch all the way up to the next corner. Lift the needle and cut the thread. 9. Open the binding. Fold at a right angle so that the blanket edge lies snugly up against the fold down the center of the binding. 10. Align the binding on the back first. Fold it into a neat, mitered corner that comes exactly to the edge of the stitched binding. This is really quite easy, but you may need to manipulate it a bit to get it just right. Pin in place. 11. Turn the blanket to the front and lay on a flat surface. Once again, tuck the blanket edge right up against the fold of the binding and pin in place all along the edge. 12. Fold the front segment up to make a mitered corner like you did on the back. Make sure that the front and back folds are in exactly the same place on the corner. Again, this may take a bit of maneuvering. Pin. 13. Begin sewing at the top of the mitered edge. Backstitch a few stitches, then sew forward to the edge of the binding. Make sure your stitches overlap both edges of the binding. If the front and back folds are aligned, the stitches will catch both sides of the back fold just like they do on the front. 14. Turn the blanket and stitch down the next side in the same way you stitched the first side. 15. Continue in this manner stitching sides and turning corners until you reach the last unfinished side. You will be putting a hidden seam in this last corner after you attach the two ends of the binding. 16. Stitch along the fourth side until you are about 6 inches from the end. Backstitch, cut the stitches and place the quilt on a cutting mat. Note: You will be connecting the two ends of the binding, the end on the first side you attached and the end on the last side you attached. 17. Fold this last section of binding back out of the way so you can work with the binding on the side that you first attached to the quilt. 18. Make sure the blanket edge is snugged up against the fold in the binding. Now, cut the end of the binding 1/4 inch beyond from the side of the blanket with a rotary cutter. 19. Fold this segment of binding out of the way and trim the remaining edge 1/4 inch beyond the side of the blanket. 20. Open up both ends of the binding. Bring the cut sides together and pin. 21. Stitch the ends together with a 1/4 inch seam. Use a zigzag stitch to finish the edge so that it won’t fray out in the laundry after it’s all finished. Press the seam to one side. 22. Working on the last side you added binding to, pin the binding in place. The seam will fall exactly on the edge of the blanket. 23. Zigzag stitch the rest of the binding on this side of the blanket. Start where you left off with a backstitch and sew to the end in the same way you stitched to the corner edge on the other three corners. 24. Open the binding and fold it to miter the corners exactly like all other corners. The only difference is that this time a seam will be tucked away on the inside. 25. Miter the corners as before and pin. 26. Stitch the mitered folds, turn the blanket and stitch along this final stretch back on the first side of the blanket that you worked on. 27. Sew right up to and just over the beginning zigzag stitches. Backstitch. Cut the threads and your blanket is beautifully bound with perfect stitching on the front and on the back! Happy Stitching!!

In this video sewing tutorial, I will show you how to sew mitered corners. If you are looking for easy quilt binding corners check out my ideas on how to sew a mitered corner binding and mitered quilt borders.

Here is a helpful technique from Beth Ann Doing for self-binding a quilt. Binding a quilt is something quilters either love or hate. Personally, I like it because it means my piece is almost done…

One of my friends is about to become a first time grandmother. She's a quilter and has been sewing like crazy. She knew that I was making a pattern for a baby blanket with satin binding and begged me to show her how to attach it. This tutorial is for her and for all of you who have wondered how to make the binding look neat and professional. The puppy applique will be found in my Craftsy pattern, “Doggy in the Window” baby blanket. Finished Measurements: Approximately 34" x 40" Materials: · 2 yards of baby flannel · 1 package of satin blanket binding · matching thread Preparing the Blanket for Binding 1. Prewash two yards of baby flannel in warm water. Prewashing is essential because the flannel will shrink a lot. 2. Press the flannel and cut it in half. 3. If you are adding an applique, do it now, before you put the front and back pieces of fabric together. 4. Lay the two flannel pieces wrong sides together on a cutting mat. The right sides of the fabric will be facing out. 5. Cut through both layers with a rotary cutter to square up the sides. You can usually get a rectangle of about 34” x 40”. 6. Pin the pieces together and stay-stitch around the outside edges of the flannel. You could zigzag or serge the edges instead if you like. About the Binding Satin blanket binding usually comes in package containing 4 3/4 yards of 2-inch single fold satin. It is found in most fabric stores on the same display case that contains rickrack, seam binding, and bias tape. When you examine the bias tape you’ll see that one folded side is slightly wider than the other. This wider side will go on the back of the blanket. The cut ends of the binding fray very easily, so care will need to be taken to prevent your binding fraying apart at any seams. Attaching the Binding 1. Lay your unbound blanket on a flat surface. (I use an ironing board.) 2. Open the binding and slid it under one side of the blanket. Make sure the wider side of the binding is against the back of the blanket. Leave about an inch of binding overlapping the corner. 3. Snug the blanket right up against the fold all along this side. 4. Fold the blanket binding up and over the front of the blanket. Pin in place. 5. Set your machine to make a wide zigzag stitch. On my machine the width was set at 5 and the stitch length was 1.4. 6. Do not start stitching right at the corner. Begin about 6 inches in from that. You will need to keep that much the binding unattached for creating a neat corner seam later on. 7. Overlap the zigzag stitch so that it falls partly on the satin and partly on the flannel. 8. Stitch all the way up to the next corner. Lift the needle and cut the thread. 9. Open the binding. Fold at a right angle so that the blanket edge lies snugly up against the fold down the center of the binding. 10. Align the binding on the back first. Fold it into a neat, mitered corner that comes exactly to the edge of the stitched binding. This is really quite easy, but you may need to manipulate it a bit to get it just right. Pin in place. 11. Turn the blanket to the front and lay on a flat surface. Once again, tuck the blanket edge right up against the fold of the binding and pin in place all along the edge. 12. Fold the front segment up to make a mitered corner like you did on the back. Make sure that the front and back folds are in exactly the same place on the corner. Again, this may take a bit of maneuvering. Pin. 13. Begin sewing at the top of the mitered edge. Backstitch a few stitches, then sew forward to the edge of the binding. Make sure your stitches overlap both edges of the binding. If the front and back folds are aligned, the stitches will catch both sides of the back fold just like they do on the front. 14. Turn the blanket and stitch down the next side in the same way you stitched the first side. 15. Continue in this manner stitching sides and turning corners until you reach the last unfinished side. You will be putting a hidden seam in this last corner after you attach the two ends of the binding. 16. Stitch along the fourth side until you are about 6 inches from the end. Backstitch, cut the stitches and place the quilt on a cutting mat. Note: You will be connecting the two ends of the binding, the end on the first side you attached and the end on the last side you attached. 17. Fold this last section of binding back out of the way so you can work with the binding on the side that you first attached to the quilt. 18. Make sure the blanket edge is snugged up against the fold in the binding. Now, cut the end of the binding 1/4 inch beyond from the side of the blanket with a rotary cutter. 19. Fold this segment of binding out of the way and trim the remaining edge 1/4 inch beyond the side of the blanket. 20. Open up both ends of the binding. Bring the cut sides together and pin. 21. Stitch the ends together with a 1/4 inch seam. Use a zigzag stitch to finish the edge so that it won’t fray out in the laundry after it’s all finished. Press the seam to one side. 22. Working on the last side you added binding to, pin the binding in place. The seam will fall exactly on the edge of the blanket. 23. Zigzag stitch the rest of the binding on this side of the blanket. Start where you left off with a backstitch and sew to the end in the same way you stitched to the corner edge on the other three corners. 24. Open the binding and fold it to miter the corners exactly like all other corners. The only difference is that this time a seam will be tucked away on the inside. 25. Miter the corners as before and pin. 26. Stitch the mitered folds, turn the blanket and stitch along this final stretch back on the first side of the blanket that you worked on. 27. Sew right up to and just over the beginning zigzag stitches. Backstitch. Cut the threads and your blanket is beautifully bound with perfect stitching on the front and on the back! Happy Stitching!!

Most quilters find the binding step to be the most time-consuming part of making a quilt but it doesn't have to be if you use your sewing machine. This method is a popular way to finish a quilt that both saves time (compared to hand sewing) and completes the quilt by giving it a nicely finished border edge. We personally sew all of our binding using a sewing machine as it's quick and easy and to be honest, we really don't like hand sewing all that much. This tutorial goes over the basics of quilt binding plus it illustrates the

I hope that you enjoy snuggling with your quilt while hand-stitching a binding to your quilt - it's still one of my favorite parts of quilting.

You've got to get the binding on your quilt nice and straight to get the perfect look. Read this quilting tutorial to get perfectly straight corners on quilt binding.

Wondering How to Finish a Quilt? Top US quilting blog, Diary of a Quilter, features an Easy DIY Tutorial for Finishing and Binding a Quilt. Click here now!!

See how to finish binding on a quilt - the easy way!

Ultimate quilt binding tutorial with step by step instructions to show you how to make quilt binding and how to attach the first round of binding. Includes 10 tips for success and a lits of tools you'll need to make your own quilt binding.

Learn all about sewing binding on a quilt with our in-depth hands-on tutorial. We'll show you how to calculate binding, make binding for a quilt, and how to finish binding!

I hope that you enjoy snuggling with your quilt while hand-stitching a binding to your quilt - it's still one of my favorite parts of quilting.

Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!

Get tips on how to prepare a quilt binding. Tips that will help make this step in the quilting process less tricky.

The first time I made a quilt I wasn't quite sure how to sew on the binding. I spent a lot of time making a quilt for my mom's 80th birthday, and I didn't want to mess it up by doing a poor job on the binding. Fortunately, I have a co-worker friend who is an avid quilter and gave me a super easy way to bind it.

There is an easier way to bind a quilt: use the backing fabric. Learn how in this tutorial from NewQuilters.com. #bindingaquilteasy, bindingaquilttutorial

What pure fun making this quilt was! You forget how fast baby quilts are to make until you realize that it’s binding time and the quilt is almost finished and it seemed to just fly out of th…

 I don’t know about you, but I am always forgetting the details of thing- even if I’m doing them all the time! It’s actually kind of embarrassing. Like, all the time. Anyway, one thing that I’m constantly looking up is how to bind a quilt. I always forget how exactly to fold the corners…

Learn how to make a self binding baby blanket quickly with our step-by-step guide. Perfect for beginners and a wonderful gift for new parents!

Wondering about Finishing or Binding a Quilt? Top US quilting blog, Diary of a Quilter, features their Step by Step Instructions. Click here now!!

Handy video from quilt designer Patrick Lose gives you an easy way to make perfect corners when you bind a quilt. #quiltbinding, #quiltingforbeginners

How To Bind A Quilt by Machine is a step-by-step tutorial that teaches quilting beginners a simple way to bind a quilt by machine.

Finishing a quilt with binding isn’t a difficult thing to learn. Check out these quilt binding basics from National Quilters Circle

tutorial on joining the ends of quilt binding

Modern Quilting Tips, Tricks and Tutorials! - Everything you need to know to make quilting easy and fun so you can do what it is you love to do and create a beautiful joy filled life!

More on how to use decorative stitches on your sewing machine to finish binding for quilts, using your Bernina and Janome sewing machines.

This blanket stitch tip represents another way to add colorful threads and a decorative edge to the your next quilt. Try for yourself.

How to sew blanket binding on a baby blanket, how to sew satin blanket binding, satin blanket binding tutorial, how to sew mitered corners on baby blanket, flannel baby blanket. Satin Blanket Binding is the softest way to finish a baby blanket.

Binding is the final step of quilting and it must be perfect. Otherwise, all your efforts will be wasted!

As promised in my last post, here is a tutorial on how I like to face a quilt. Facing a quilt is a way to bind your quilt without having the binding show on the front. It allows you to take the quilting all the way to the edge, can add a nice professional and more artful looking finish, (especially to a smaller quilt) and I also find quilts seem to hang better and flatter with this method. Please keep in mind that this is just one way to face a quilt, and that there are many different methods out there. A lot of quilters prefer to use methods that create mitered corners, and you can find loads of tutorials on how to do that with a goggle search. However, I am extremely direction challenged and found them a bit too confusing for me! The method that I use doesn't give you mitered corners, but who cares as they wouldn't show on the front anyway. And best of all it is simple, straight forward and super-duper easy, I promise! I broke this tutorial up into 17 steps, (all really simple so don't be intimidated) and lots of photos, as visually I learn best that way, and I am guessing you do, too! So, here we go.... Step 1: Begin with a quilt top that you have finished quilting. Make sure to square the corners and trim off any excess batting and backing fabric. Starting at the top and the bottom edges of your quilt, cut two strips of fabric each 2" wide and a wee bit longer then your top and bottom edges. (Note: For photo purposes, my quilt is turned on its side here). With your quilt facing right side up, pin each strip along the top and bottom, lining the edge of the fabric strip to the edge of the quilt, as seen in the photo above. (Note: I like to use solids, but if you are using a print for your facing strips you would want to sew the strip right side down). Step 2: Using a 1/4" seam allowance sew both strips in place and trim the excess fabric edges flush with the sides of the quilt, as shown in the photo above. Step 3: Flip the strips up and over to the side, as shown above. (If using a print the print would now be face up). Press with a hot iron. Step 4: Begin to fold the entire strip to the back of the quilt, as shown above. You almost have to roll the area that contains the seam allowance to get it to go backwards. As you are doing this, keep pressing with a hot iron, (I like to use a lot of steam, too). The photo above shows what the front will look like once that strip is turned and pressed all the way to the back. Here, the photo above shows how the edge of the quilt will look once the strip is folded back. And this photo above, shows what the back will look like. Very easy so far, yes?! Okay, lets continue.... Step 5: Now you are going to flip your quilt over to the backside, and unfold those strips that I just had you so carefully fold and press! Using your hot iron and some steam, begin to turn and press the edge of each facing strip inward a generous 1/4" as shown above. (Be careful to just press the edge of the facing strip, and not that quilted seam allowance, as we want to keep the "memory" of the pressed fold there for later). Step 6: Flip your quilt to the front and your facing strips, too, so they are now back to where you started. Pin in place so they lay nice and flat along the quilt top, as shown in the photo above. Step 7: Cut two more facing strips, again each 2" wide, but this time approximately 1" shorter then the length of your quilt. Step 8: Center each strip along the sides of your quilt leaving approximately 1/2" on the ends, as shown above. As before, pin both strips to the sides, lining up the edges of the strips to the edges of your quilt. Note: Once the new facing strips are pinned in place you can remove the pins from the first two strips. Step 9: Begin stitching at the edge of the quilt, and using a 1/4"seam allowance, continue to stitch the length of the strip and past, going all the way to the other edge of your quilt. See photo above. Step 10: Stitch each corner of your quilt. You will want to go right across that intersection, as shown above. This is to reinforce your corners for when they are turned. I like to stitch a line forward then another one backward, for extra strength. Step 11: Trim each corner off, flush with the line you just stitched, as shown above. Step 12: We are going to repeat a few steps here... As before in Step 3, flip the two strips that you just sewed over and away from the quilt and press. Then fold and roll the strips to the back as you did in Step 4 pressing as you go. Flip your quilt over to the back and unfold your facing strips as you did in Step 5 and press your generous 1/4" seam allowance along the edge of each facing strip. But now, unlike before, I want you to re-fold and re-roll these two strips back again to the back of your quilt. Steam press again to get everything nice and flat. The above photo shows what the front of your quilt should now look like. The facing strips along the top and the bottom of your quilt top are still visible on the front, and the side facing strips are turned and pressed neatly to the back. And the photo above shows what that those two newest strips should look like on the back side. Yup... lot's of little steps here, but they are oh, so easy! And we are almost finished! Step 13: Flip your quilt to the backside, and pin those two strips flat against the back of your quilt, as shown above. Step 14: Using nice small stitches, hand stitch each strip in place along the back of your quilt, as shown above, remembering to be careful not to stitch through to the front side. Step 15: We are in the home stretch now, baby! Using your forefinger and thumb, as shown above and below, push each corner right-side out. As you do this the two remaining facing strips on the front side of your quilt will naturally flip to the back of your quilt, where they belong. Continue to push each corner out with your thumb. I then like to use a wooded chopstick to push the corner as far out as possible. Step 16: Once the corners are all pushed out and the facing strips are on the backside of the quilt, re-press along the edges with a hot iron, making sure everything is nice and crisp and laying flat, as shown above. Step 17: As before in Steps 13 and 14, pin and hand stitch the two facing strips down to the back of your quilt, as shown in the photo above. Ta - da! That's it! You are all done! Above, is what the quilt looks like from the back. Folk Art Cross Quilt No.3 And here is what it looks like from the front. Told you it was easy! If you have any questions, ask them in the comment section and I'll do my best to answer them! xo You can view more of my Tutorials HERE and my Patterns HERE.

Learn to make quilt binding in six simples steps by Simple Simon and Company.

Hand Work Station Yes! Marissa's Moment of Caprice is finally at this station. That makes me super happy even though my Hawaiian mini is sooo close to being finished that it was a shame to have to set it aside once more. I love the back on this (seen here) as much as the front. Let me say: Scalloped binding is gorgeous and I know I'll do it again for sure, but WHAT A JOB! Luckily I picked up a few tips from around Blogworld, and let me pass those along. You absolutely must use a bias-cut binding. You cannot go around those curves and inward corners with on-the-grain strips. The tip I picked up a couple years ago to starch binding shut on itself as you press the fold (this lightly "glues" the layers together so you don't get slippage puckers) was immensely beneficial for scalloped attachment. Don't cut the scallops until you've attached all the binding. You lose a ton of stability on your sewing base if you turn that into bias as well. In a couple of the pics below you can see the blue-line edge I had traced onto the quilt top before quilting. Another thing that really helped with putting on this binding is that I'd basted just inside that line (about 2 mm) when I was going to start my FMQ. You're going to need a lot of time for this task. It normally takes me 30-35 minutes to attach a twin-sized binding. This took several sessions (it's VERY intense work), and added up to just under 3 hours! So plan for that if you've got a deadline on a project. While sewing, you'll need a tool to hold the edge in place around those curves and to swing the seam allowance out of the way on the inner angles. Did your trusty Purple Thang get lost during a recent move? Grab a seam ripper. Worked great. You don't need to fuss and worry about easing in fabric on the curves, but I found it extremely helpful as I approached those angles to lay in a pin parallel to the next curve's beginning, and 1/4" in from the edge line. Then I knew to stop the end of the curve I just made and pivot on my down-needle when I arrived at that pin. Just be careful to get your binding bent around that needle-down without stretching it. Be meticulous about getting the little folds that will form out of the way of the needle. You gotta get the next couple of stitches without going through any of those. If the needle does go through a fold, you really need to pull it all out from under the foot and pop out that stitch. Leaving it in will steal way too much of your binding from you for turning over the edge later. Trust me, it's worth the extra effort to fix that. And you go along, doing the Dory thing - "Just keep swimming, Just keep swimming" - nice and slow, until you finally arrive back where you started and you do some funky Twister struggle to get a bumpless binding connecting seam in one tiny scallop space. That was an adventure, but happily successful. :) Even the quilt was happy that this part was accomplished! Look at it grinning away at me from where I set it down to await TV time and the scallop-trimming: Again, with that task - go slow! You don't want to slice through your stitches when you're cutting those inner angles! Yeah, I was holding my breath a lot for those. It took 50 minutes to cut this twin quilt's scallops - Just so you know. You also want a nice, smooth edge. You do NOT need to snip the angles into the point of the stitching to achieve pretty inner corners later. Let it stay stronger by keeping its seam allowance intact. Also - I would stick to scissors for this task. A rotary cutter, even the tiny one, would be too risky at those inner angles. All sources and quilters stressed to me that scalloped bindings really, REALLY need to be hand-stitched down. This was fine for me, as I only machine-finish bindings on baby quilts and quilts with super-thick backings like corduroy and minky. This is another point you need to allow extra time for, though. I had comforted myself during the attachment time that at least the hand-stitching part would be more regular in time demands. However! Judging by the distance I got while watching movies with my very sick 15yo - - - it will take a total of 9 2-hour movies to stitch this baby all down, compared to a usual 3 or 4 for this size. So..... all together, at every stage, you need to factor in much, MUCH more time to put on a scalloped binding. But they're worth it! I was happy to find that the bias binding eases around the curved edges quite nicely after you practice a few. For me and my tastes, the 2 1/4 inch strips I sewed on were a perfect match for the 1/4" seam allowance I cut. I usually use 3/8" allowance on bindings, but with the curves I went a little shallower. I found it easiest to stop pinning at the middle of a scallop and jump ahead to the next angle. Fold the first edge flat like this, keeping a good tension at the stitches on the right. Fold the second edge flat like this, again making sure you don't have gapping at the stitches on that side. (Don't pull it all super-tight, just get it to the stitching.) You'll have a nice pleat running up the center of the angle. Now you can bend the whole she-bang up at the edge. You want to pinch the fold in place at the edge of the quilt while allowing it to spread back out on the edge of the binding that will meet the corner when you finish laying it down. My thumb is hiding the folded part that I'm pinching here: Now lay it down flat on the point of stitching. You can see how the fold slid open so that it disappears right at the edge of the point, but remained in place at the inner angle. All this prep work is the part that gets much faster and neater for you after you've fumbled through a few. These want to be pinned vertically. I can't get clips to hold the fold nice enough for me, so I just be careful of the porcupine effect as I'm working. Now you can go back and pin the gap just behind the angle. Don't worry about the fullness at the sewing edge. . . . . . It will lay itself down very nicely because of the bias cut if you use an invisible ladder-type stitching that you can see Nadine show at her tutorial. I tried to get a shot for you to see how I treat the angles. As the quilt is used, I don't want those folds to get pulled out and then be all ugly-popped. So I stitch each one invisibly shut - front and back. *However* - I was also concerned that pulling stress on twisting scallops might pop stitches at those corners, so I left the outer 1/3 or so unstitched, to allow for a wee bit of give without giving the fold room to pop out. Hopefully you can see here what I'm talking about. I'm sure this is where all the extra stitching time is coming from, but I'm also sure from playing around with an un-secured angle that I will not at all regret this extra care in the stitching. It just gets all messy without it when you manipulate the quilt edge. So! If you're considering a scalloped edge, leave yourself plenty of time, understand that it's an adventure, and go for it! They're beautiful edgings for the designs that want them, and well worth the time and effort. Feel free to share with me your own experiences, tips, or ask questions. FMQ Station: It's time to get the next party started!! This is getting pin-basted today. I have chemical sensitivity and some systemic health issues that I protect from carcinogenics like the propellant in spray cans, so I pass up all the basting sprays. Hounds' Blues is 60 x 60 inches. I succeeded once again at keeping everything limited to what was already in my stash! I was even able to Frankenstein some Hobbs Heirloom batting pieces together for it. I splice them using this overlapped and curvy cutting approach shown by Anne. I call it "Frankensteining" because I don't buy the iron-on tape - it's easy and quick enough to just whipstitch the joins. I use big stitches, approaching an inch apart and spanning a 1/4 inch either side of the gap. They look like Frankenstein stitches! Or big football stitches. And they go very, very quickly. You just snug it enough to make the gap disappear but not enough to make a ridge. See how hard it is to find that join? It likes to pull a little loose when you lift the batting, but just smooth it all snug again when you layer your quilt sandwich. If you baste sufficiently (whatever your favorite method), you will have no pull-away or bunching. Works like a charm. [I need to add this qualifier: if the quilt is going to have fairly wide-spaced quilting (like 4" apart or so), you'd need to use much closer stitches to keep it more stable. At that point, I'd probably opt for the ease of the iron-on tapes. ;D] For myself, I have not had good results zigzagging batting seams in the machine - They like to bunch or stretch, and I find the resulting depression still detectable after the quilt is finished. (Although I'm sure it would disappear completely in something that is hyper-quilted.) Piecing Station: Just started going through my scrap bin, cutting blues and whites into log cabin pieces for the next gift needed. They'll grow up into Run, Kitty, Run, but right now this station does not get priority. ~*~*~*~*~ Linking up at Lee's WIP Quiltsy WIP Esther's WOW Leah's UFO Sunday

When I began quilting, I learned to make bias binding and to finish by hand. Now, my preferred method is to attach the binding completely by machine. Most often, by the time I'm at the binding stage I'm just ready to be done and I really appreciate the speed of this method. Start by creating ...continue reading →

Quilt bindings are the most magical, and sometime confusing part of quilt making, especially for a new quilter! I shared a tutorial a few years back, but have adapted and made a few changes as I’ve grown as a quilter, and thought it was enough to update the post. Any tips or suggestions you might […]

I made a doll quilt before Christmas and realized I’d never posted a tutorial on this quick and easy binding method. Since I know a lot of you are beginners…this is a really great way to dip your toes into binding a quilt. I especially love it for small things like hot pads,...Read More

See how to sew quilt binding: first, how to bind a quilt, and how to sew mitered corners. Make your quilt binding corners look beautiful - the easy way!

From first stitch to joining the ends and the mitered corners in between, here's how to attach your binding to your quilt.

Binding. The finishing touch on a quilt, not only in the literal sense of being the final step to finishing our quilts by encasing all the raw edges neatly and safely, but also in an aesthetic sense as it’s the final design choice to make. Do you go for a contrasting binding, creating a frame […]

The self-binding blanket is one of my favorites. I love the results. The directions are a bit tricky. It's one of those things where you need to follow the instructions even though they don't entirely make sense. It all works out in the end! Here we go... Cut: 42” square of flannel for blanket back 32” square of flannel for blanket front Use ¼ inch seams. 1. Lay the two pieces of fabric right-sides together. 2. Mark the center of each side (on both pieces) with a pin. 3. One side at a time, pin the 2 fabrics together starting at the center marks. This leaves extra fabric sticking out on each corner, since the back piece is larger than the front piece. 4. One side at a time, sew from the middle to the outside corner, stopping ¼ inch from the edge. This is your “stopping point”. On the fourth side, leave an opening for turning your blanket right side out later. 5. Fold the blanket in half, so it is shaped like a triangle. Working with one corner at a time, Sew a line from the “stopping point” to the fold. This line should be a 90 degree angle to the fold. 6. Repeat for all corners. This is important: turn the blanket right-side out and check to make sure your corners look right. If they do, then turn the blanket inside-out again and proceed. 7. Cut off the excess from each corner. 8. Turn the blanket right-side out. Press entire blanket. 9. Topstitch along the seam all the way around the inner square, making sure to sew the opening shut. You’re done! Head on over to Flannel Queen to shop for fabric or pick up a Self-Binding Blanket Kit.

Learn how to bind a quilt with a sewing machine only. We're sharing our secrets and tips that yield great-looking binding every time!

Joining quilt binding ends the easy way