Please read the ADDENDUM at the end of the posting. Over the past few years, an intriguing group of images from the Sanitary Commission Fair in Albany, New York have surfaced that depict a group of non-Natives who are dressed in outfits incorporating Iroquois designs along with examples of their beadwork. One dress in particular, worn by a Mrs. Clinton Ten Eyck (figure 1a), appears to be the identical dress worn by Caroline Parker, a Seneca beadworker, in a famous daguerreotype of her (figure 2). Figure 1 – Large, albumen photograph of a group of enactors at the Sanitary Commission Fair, Albany, New York – February, 1864. No photographer indicated. Figure 2 – Daguerreotype of Caroline Parker, circa 1850. I reversed the image so that it can be viewed laterally correct. Daguerreotypes images are normally a reversed image, depicting the subject as if it were in a mirror. The only way the photographer could get a correct orientation was to copy the image with a second daguerreotype, or to make the original daguerreotype using a reversing prism or mirror system. Besides the complexity, another problem with a reversing mirror was if the image was taken outdoors it could be subject to movement by a breeze which would cause a blurred image. So typically people just lived with a flipped or inverted image. By reversing the orientation of this image Caroline is seen as she would have appeared to us in person and it’s easier to see how the design on her dress is identical to those on the dress in figure 1a. Wikipedia reports that the United States Sanitary Commission was created during the Civil War to improve conditions for Union soldiers. It was a private relief agency, created by federal legislation, to support sick and wounded soldiers. It operated across the North, enlisted thousands of volunteers, and raised its own funds. Union ladies did fund-raising fairs in cities across the north, where paintings, photographs, and a host of other donated items were auctioned or sold to support the war effort. Besides raising money and collecting donations, volunteers worked as nurses, ran kitchens in army camps, administered hospital ships, soldiers' homes, lodges, established places of rest for traveling or disabled soldiers, made uniforms, and organized Sanitary Fairs to support the Federal army with funds and supplies. It was hard work; many women had to travel great distances and at times found themselves in unpleasant situations. Some of the more prominent women involved in these fairs included Louisa May Alcott, Almira Fales, Eliza Emily Chappell Porter, Katherine Prescott Wormeley and others. The first Sanitary Fair occurred in Chicago, in the fall of 1863, and it included a six-mile-long parade of militiamen, bands, political leaders, delegations from various local organizations, and a contingent of farmers who donated carts full of their crops. The fairs generally involved large scale exhibitions, including displays of art, mechanical technology, and period rooms. Many of these displays were based on the history that local communities held in common. Different localities often competed with one another over their contribution to the national cause which brought a sense of pride to the community. Except for figure 2, the photographs in this posting originated from a Sanitary Fair that was held in Albany, New York in 1864. It was reported, in the Evening Journal of February 29, 1864, that over the duration of the Fair, the individual concession booths had raised an estimated $50,000 for the cause. There were thirty plus booths at the Albany event including the Yankee Booth, Shaker Booth, Oriental Booth, Spanish Booth, Russian Booth, Gipsy Booth, Saratoga Springs Booth, the Ice Cream Booth, and of particular interest to us, the Indian Wigwam. The image in figure 1 is of a group of enactors who were overseeing that booth. The Fulton County (NY) newspaper cited above had the following entry about it: THE INDIAN WIGWAM. The Wigwam is one of the chief lions of the Bazaar. It has, probably, attracted larger crowds than any other "Shop" in the building. Its budget of curious things is peculiarly rich. A mere enumeration of the articles makes one's head swim. Moccasins, of rich texture and exquisite workmanship; Bows and Arrows; Pipes; Stuffed Birds and Animals; belts of Wampum; Scarves and head ornaments; Baskets, Reticules, Purses, Portmonnies, stacks of other curious wares too numerous to mention. In a reference to the outfits that the enactors were wearing and the individual personalities they were representing, it went on to state: The personations are admirable. Costumes, ornaments, paint, war-whoop, are wonderfully Indianiah. So perfect is the ambulation and so life-like the acting, that one fancies, for the moment that a band of Aboriginals have actually encamped in the Bazaar. The characters of the chieftainnees, “Nokomas,” “Minnehaha,” “Wawatasa,” “Opechee,” “Pocahontas,” and “Metamora” are strikingly “done.” The names of the dramatis persona are as follows:—Mrs. J. L Johnson, Manneoka; Mrs. Clinton Ten Eyck, Miss Mount Pleasant [Caroline Parker took the surname Mountpleasant after her marriage to Tuscarora chief John Mountpleasant]; Mrs. Karalake, Hiawatha; Mr. C Thomas, Metamora; Miss Groot, Pocahontas; Miss Little, Wawatasa; Miss Swan, Owassa; Miss Netterville, Minnehaha; Miss Redfield, Winona; Miss Wilson, Opechee; Miss Steele, Nokoma; Miss Taylor, Tawashagunshee. The importance of the Fair in Albany was demonstrated by a publication called TheCanteen that was published specifically to advertise the Fair and cover events that transpired there. It contained a diagram of the floor plan of the building along with lists of advertisers, items donated, food menus available to patrons, a description of each of the booths, anecdotes from soldiers who were fighting in the war, etc. Regarding the Indian Wigwam, it had this to say: THE WIGWAM Is one of the best regulated and most attractive places in the Bazaar. It is a life picture of Indian life. The ladies who preside there have made a decided hit. The hut itself is a curiosity as a work of art; the decorations are such as become a forest home. The managers evince a keen appreciation of the character, habits of life, sources of amusement, listless inactivity, pride and fondness for dress and display of the tribes they personate. They present the Indian character to the life. The hut is hung with trophies of war and of the chase. The canoe is drawn up waiting the opening of the streams; the snow-shoes are near the door and ready for any emergency. Bows and arrows, baskets, bead work, in all the varied forms, are here and well displayed. The wanderers from the St. Regis tribe who visit us and encamp on the island over the river annually [Starbuck Island?], never display a greater variety of their handiwork than do the fair denizens of the Wigwam, who have made their home with us for a few days. We give below the names of those who occupy the Wigwam, together with their Indian names: Mrs. J. I. Johnson, Manneoka; Mrs. Clinton Ten Eyck, Miss Mount Pleasant: Mr. S. Karslake, Hiawatha; Mr. C. Thomas, Metamora; Miss Groot, Pocahontas j Miss Little, Wawatasa; Miss Swan, Owassa; Miss Netterville, Minnehaha ; Miss Redfield, Winona; Miss Wilson, Opechee ; Miss Steele, Nokoma; Miss Taylor, Tawashagunshee. Figure 3 – An illustration of a very similar dress that was made by Caroline Parker’s and illustrated in one of Lewis Henry Morgan’s regent’s reports to the state of New York in the mid-19th century. It’s interesting to note that the text above was reporting that Akwesasne [St. Regis] Mohawk were selling in Albany, around this time, and possibly on Starbuck Island. Upon examination, the dress that Ten Eyck is wearing in figure 1a appears to be the same one that Caroline Parker is wearing in figure 2. Around 1850, Lewis Henry Morgan acquired a substantial number of beaded pieces from Caroline for the New York State Cabinet of Natural History (predecessor to the New York State Museum in Albany). So it’s possible they lent the dress to Ten Eyck for the fund raiser (figure 3). Figure 4 – Carte-de-visite (CDV) of a group of enactors at the Sanitary Commission Fair, Albany, New York, February, 1864. Photographer: J.H. Abbott, Albany, New York. Another photograph of this same group of enactors (figure 4) was likely taken at the same time figure 1 was taken as the images are nearly identical. A detail view of one of the bags in these images is illustrated in figure 5. Two similarly styled Iroquois bags are illustrated in figure 6. These bags, as well as the one in the image, are earlier than the date of the photograph (1864). Stylistically, the bags date to the 1830s. So the enactors are wearing a variety of items from different time periods such as bags from the 1830s, Caroline Parker’s dress from around 1850, and the hat of the subject in figure 1d from the 1860s. Figure 5 – Detail view of the beaded bag in figure 1b. This same bag can also be seen in figure 4. Figure 6 – Two beaded bags in the same style as the one in figure 5. Both of these bags date to the 1830s. In another image from the same year, and taken by the same photographer, J. H. Abbott, of Albany, New York, has a different group of enactors from this same Fair. Two of the women (fig. 7a & 7c) have beaded bags. The young boy (fig. 7b) is wearing a multi-panel hat that has floral decorations in the Niagara style. Figure 8 is a detail view of the bag in figure 7a. A similarly styled bag is illustrated in figure 9. This style of bag is contemporary to the image. The bag in figure 7c is in the Niagara floral style. Figure 7 – CDV of a different group of enactors at the Sanitary Commission Fair, Albany, New York, February, 1864. Photographer: J.H. Abbott, Albany, New York. Figure 8 – Detail of the beaded bag in figure 7a. Figure 9 – A similar beaded bag to the one in figure 8. This bag is totally embellished in crystal beads and two strings of white beads and the one in figure 8 may have been as well. Bags in this style that were decorated with crystal beads and occasionally in a combination of both crystal band white beads were popular from the 1850s through the 1880s. Another interesting image from this group is figure 10. These same three individuals are also part of the group in figure 7. This image affords us a better view of the boy’s Niagara style hat and beaded bag. Some of the elements in the woman’s outfit, such as the large flower on her headband and the one on her dress, above her bust line, appear to be beaded and this may be a Mohawk diagnostic (See: A Cherished Curiosity for more info on this).Yet the designs on her dress, although unusual, look Seneca. High magnification reveals that most of the decorations on her outfit are done in fabric appliqué and are not beaded. The wide band on her dress, with the diamond motifs, is bordered with a twisted cord. Even the large diamond with double-curves and semi-floral motif to the right of it appears to be made up from some kind of braided band. This could have been done for efficiency as her outfit may have been made specifically for the Sanitary Fair. Figure 10 – A cabinet card of what might be a mother and her children. The same boy is depicted in both figures 11 and 12 although he is wearing a different bag in those images. This same group is also depicted in figure 7. No photographer or location indicated but likely taken in February, 1864 at the time of the Sanitary Commission Fair in Albany, New York. Figure 11 is of the same young boy in figure 10; figure 12 depicts the same man pictured on the far left in figure 7. In figure 12, we have a much better view of his bandolier bag. Figure 11 – CDV of the young boy depicted in figures 7, 10 and 12. He has a late Niagara floral style beaded bag attached to his belt and a multi-panel Iroquois beaded hat, also in the Niagara floral style. Photographer: S. J. Thompson, Albany, New York. Figure 12 – CDV of the same young boy depicted in figure 11 and what is presumably his father. The father is wearing a large bandolier bag at his side (a better view of his bag can be seen in figure 7). Both the father and son are wearing Haudenosaunee moccasins decorated in the Niagara floral style. It’s especially of interest that Caroline Parker, the Seneca beadworker, was included in the list of historical characters that these enactors were representing. The year of the Fair is the same year that she was married to Tuscarora chief John Mountpleasant. During this period, her celebrated brother, General Eli Parker, was an officer on then General Grant’s Civil War staff. Deborah Holler writes that …historians and scholars of the Iroquois have speculated on her role in the political upheavals surrounding the Seneca land battles of the 19th century and wondered about her friendship with the renowned ethnographer Lewis Henry Morgan. In addition, a recent revival of interest in Iroquois beadwork by connoisseurs and art historians has shed new light on Caroline Parker’s artistry in clothing and textiles, widely acknowledged to be pivotal in the 19th century cultural exchange between the Native aesthetic and European influences. This developing aesthetic in clothing and textiles became an inspiration for generation of Iroquois artists, as well as the prototype for Seneca women’s “traditional” clothing styles. Thus Carrie Parker, it can be argued, became an arbiter of change who walked in two worlds; that of her traditional Tonawanda Seneca and Tuscarora communities, and that of the highest social and political realms of white society (Holler 2011:9). She was certainly a well know and a recognized figure in Albany society, not a small undertaking for an Indian woman in that day and age. References Cited Biron, Gerry 2012 A Cherished Curiosity: The Souvenir Beaded Bag in Historic Haudenosaunee (Iroquois) Art. Published by the author. Holler, Deborah 2011 The Remarkable Caroline G. Parker Mountpleasant, Seneca Wolf Clan in Western New York Heritage magazine. Volume 14, Number 1, Spring 2011. Addendum In looking over the photographs, after posting them online of course, I noticed a small detail that I overlooked and as small as it is, it changes everything. The floral motif on Ten Eyck’s dress (figure 4), (she is the lady standing in profile on the far right), should have five round flowers but it has only four and one stem can be seen ending abruptly, with the flower missing. That same floral arrangement on the dress in figures 1 through 3 has five flowers. So the dress that Ten Eyck is wearing might be a reproduction. The question is: was the beadwork on the dress under construction at the time the photo was taken, (likely using the original dress as their model) or, was she wearing the actual dress but by the time this image was taken, it had become damaged and somehow the flower fell off or was removed. Any thoughts?

Shop The Wandering Bull for a large selection of real and reproduction wampum beads, perfect for Native American beadwork and crafts.

Exquisite bead embroidery kits "The Beetles" beaded cross stitch, needlework kit from Ukraine. Will be an excellent gift for any occasion. It's very extremely bright and beautiful. The Natural art canvas used in these kits is designed to bear the weight of the beads and will keep its shape over time. Your Bead Embroidery kits "The Beetles" include design printed in full color on durable natural cotton art canvas, glass beads Preciosa Ornela, needle for embroidery and instructions are in English. Thread is not included, but any sewing or beading thread may be used. White or transparent thread is recommended. This is Bead Embroidery kit by AbrisArt (Ukraine). Image size: 240x330 mm (9.44"x12.99") 30 bead colors Attention! Frame not included embroidery kit. The real color of the item may be slightly different from the pictures shown on website caused by many factors such as brightness of your monitor and light brightness. Much more beautiful than the pictures! IMPORTANT! This is a KIT, not a completed work. If you need a ready-made embroidered picture, let us know about it and we will happily carry out the embroidery for you. It can make a great gift for someone special or for your own collection. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me. I ship to Worldwide. Shipping via International Air Mail with tracking number. Some products are located in the United States and may be shipped from the USA only to US residents. To all other countries items are shipped from Ukraine. Click on the heart to save a listing and you can always find what you were looking for in your favorite items. Thanks for visiting InspirationCraftsUA --- LOOK OUT ANOTHER SIMILAR EMBROIDERY KIT I OFFER --- https://www.etsy.com/listing/770396292/bead-embroidery-kit --- BACK TO THE SHOP InspirationCraftsUA --- https://www.etsy.com/shop/InspirationCraftsUA

Image courtesy of Beadie Buddy Bonanza. Plastic lacing, pony beads and a campers imagination are all you need to make a fun and inexp...

View the stunning embroidery work of Michele Carragher, customer designer for Game of Thrones and Elizabeth I. Read the full interview.

ALCYONEUM OCEANUS Collection Exploring the relationship between combining unconventional materials such as concrete, resin and recycled plastics with delicate embroidery to create contemporary besp…

They're taking over the oceans!!! Over-fishing, warming oceans...it all adds up to more jellyfish! They're beautiful though, aren't they? These ghostly creatures were made with heat-treated Tyvek material and various threads, cords and yarns. The background is a patchwork machine-quilted base with couching and beadwork. Many of the fabrics are scraps left over from previous art and some are hand-dyed. This piece and 44 other pieces are now on display at Place des Arts in Coquitlam BC. kirstensfabricart.blogspot.com/ SOLD 8" x 10" 17" x 21" framed

Add some extra jingle and sparkle to your backyard this year with a handmade beaded wind chime with bells.

This week's inspiration...the beautiful and colourful geometric designs of South Africa's Ndebele people.

Do you like space and sci fi books and movies? I like and thats why i made this collection of fantastic beadwork in sci fi and space style.

A little textile inspiration from my YouTube 'Meet the Artist' Collection. Today it features the detailed hand embroidery by artist Claire Edwards.

Explore Karen Cattoire's 1075 photos on Flickr!

hand sewn little critters from the finest natural fibers

I am participating in an amazing giveaway at 2 Bags Full. It is hosted by Vicki, one of the most talented, creative and generous bloggers, no, people I know. And I know a lot of talented, wonderful, generous people! This give away is to celebrate spring and she is doing it right! So why are you reading about it here...well, you can win one of my Garden of Delight Needle Book there, custom designed just for you! (Photo by Vicki Boster) I created the above needle book just for Vicki. Actually, she purchased 2 and waited forever while I stitched them up, and down and all around. I had loads of fun creating for her because she is so open to unique creations. Here are a few more in different styles and colors. These needle cases are one of my favorites to create because each one is a reflection of the person who is ordering. No two are alike. You will be able to help me design your needle book to your specifications. You can request specific flowers, birds or any other imagery that is meaningful to you. I'll give you more details before we begin. If you are interested in ordering one, I'm afraid that I am not taking orders at this time. However, your request can be added to my waiting list. I am hoping to get back to this design in late June. In the meantime, take a look at my Etsy Shop. I have so many pretty pincushions and needle books to entice and hopefully inspire you. Well.... lets get back to Vicki's Giveaway. She is featuring her Spring Woodland Nest. Oh my, it is just so beautiful! (Photo by Vicki Booster) Isn't it just so amazing? Well, if you visit her blog, you will see how many wonderful things go into each and every one of her nests. She only creates a limited number each year. They are true labors of love. Well, you can find out more when you get to her blog. When you purchase her items she nearly always has a charity donation connected to her sales and this one is no exception. She is working with Lily's Place, which is a pediatric addiction recovery center in Kentucky, where she lives. She organizes her Pink Scarf Project each October to raise funds and awareness for Breast Cancer. She also hosts and organizes the Grow Your Blog Party to help up and coming artists/bloggers find each other and find followers. So many artists have been found and have connected because Vicki remembered what it was like to have something to share. All they needed was for people to find them. Vicki helps! Well, you can also find some amazing things in the 2 Bags Full Spring Give Away. Vicki's Springtime Woodland Nest A Necklace by Sidney from How My Heart Beats. It comes in a sweet fabric gift bag. Too adorable! An Anthropologie Inspired Bag by Margaret Smith Gardiner A Mini Book of Garden Verses by Sue Kosec Vicki's friend Marsha has also painted a lovely Tea Set and Nest Tags. My dear friend Cynthia Crane has donated a delightful Pitcher, Bird inspired ceramic buttons and painted notecards. Wow~! You can find images of these beautiful items, along with artist links and contact information to find out how to order some of the items you see. Just in case you just can't wait for the Giveaway to end, which is on June 21st. The first day of the Summer Solstice. If you are here from Vicki's Giveaway "Welcome!!!". I'm so glad to have you here. I'll be hosting my own Giveaway in July to celebrate Pinterest. Homespun Magazine, in Australia will be featuring one of my needle cases, The 1930's Flying Geese Design in their August Issue. You can find me in their Best Of Pinterest Feature. I'm thrilled. I'll be giving away 2 sets of Stick With Me Pin Assortments to 2 lucky entries. Don't sign up now. It won't count. Thanks for stopping by and "The Best of Luck to You!" Whomever wins that price is one very lucky person. (Wish it could be me).

Speakeasy Art Gallery presents: Jan Huling October 4 – 28th

On Jan. 11th, my brother's first solo show opened at the LaConner Quilt Museum... 43 beaded quilts.... 10 years of work by Thom Atkins!!!! To say I am one totally proud sister is a drastic understatement. I took a few pictures with my little point-and-shoot camera. And then the battery went dead. No spare. Good news, however... my beadiferous-fiber friend, Sweetpea's Path, also attended the opening and took pictures with a more advanced camera. She posted them here. You can also visit Thom's website to see more. Better yet, get thee to LaConner. There is NO WAY that any camera can capture the awesome totality of these quilts, beautifully displayed on the museum walls, full size, up close and personal. The town is a fun, artsy town, with nice places to stay, eat and see. There's even a new quilt shop that just opened. The show closes on March 25, 2012. The above pictures are detail shots of Monterey Seascapes. Be sure to click to enlarge these images so you can see all the beady details. You can see the whole seascape on Thom's website, on this page. I think the way he used beads to construct the various underwater flora is utterly amazing. Most of the quilts in the show are for sale, although the prices aren't posted. There's a price list available in the Museum gift shop on the same floor as Thom's exhibit. I'm so pleased for him... two of the quilts, including the one shown above and below, Australian Dreamscape, sold during the artist's reception. Here is a picture of Thom working on Australian Dreamscape in my studio during a visit in July, 2004. And here's where you can read more about it. I bet you'll all be glad to know Thom's book on quilting with beads will be out this fall. I'll post a notice when it is available. The quilt below, which is one of my favorites, is on the cover. The title of the quilt is Tenuous Membrane and it's 25.5 x 43 inches. I love the colors and the harmony of lines! Here's a detail shot. It's not on his website yet. Another of my favorites is My Father's Shadow. Our biological father died in an automobile crash when Thom was 3 1/2 and I was just turning 5. I never thought of depicting our father in this way, but when I saw Thom's quilt I got a massive lump in my throat and a dense coating of goose bumps. It hit home, big time. Here's a detail. The grass is entirely beaded. Here's the page for it. They're all favorites... but one more for you, just a detail... Serenity lives up to it's name... lichen-covered rocks, with moss-covered bases, sit serenely in perfectly raked sand. This picture is just a detail, a teaser, because the whole is not yet on Thom's website. You'll have to go to LaConner to see it.

Julia Gorina is extra talanted jewelry artist. She makes amazing and wonderful alive birds brooches. She use silk, vintage fabric, seed beads, sequins, different glass beads and other nice high quality materials.

Each book is something totally unique and incredibly beautiful. Tiny stitches, stump work, beads and a button adorn each book.

For London-based designer Kamila, who works under the name Mila Textiles, ski masks provide a fitting canvas for embroidered compositions.

A beautiful piece by bead embroidery artist: Heidi Kummli from her Free Spirit Collection

Looking for a fun macrame project to make for summer? Check out these colorful and texture-filled macrame bracelet patterns!

Bohemian garden designs. Bohemian garden ideas.