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How to: Free Motion Quilt Spinning X Block - Sunday Stitches (Piece N Quilt)

Hey there! Are you ready for another Sunday Stitches tutorial? I thought it would be fun today to share how-to machine quilt this Spinning X quilt block. I had a lot of fun machine quilting a few of t

There is a lot of preparation that goes into teaching so sometimes I don’t get to quilt for a long time. In a perfect world somehow there would be a balance between teaching and quilting. I k…

Tutorial - Mitered and Flanged Machine Binding

Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!

Playing with variations of machine quilting feathers

Feathers are a classic machine quilting motif that lend elegance and beauty to any quilt top. However, they can be challenging to the new machine quilter. Of course, the key to mastering feathers is practice but it also helps to find the feather style that you like best.

This past Novemer, the Handi Quilter Educators were given a challenge to quilt ice-dyed whole cloths that were made by Debra Linker (here is her facebook page). She does exquisite work and I was honored to be part of this challenge. If we turned in our completed projects by a certain date, we were able...

Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!

Isn’t this adorable! I love this quilt…so sweet :-) Marianne’s circles quilt…digital design Bubblicious by Lisa Calle

Learn how to make a wholecloth quilt with this step-by-step photo tutorial that includes tips for Kantha-style stitching!

Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!

I like to warm up before I begin sketching or stitching... My warm up design is usually a feather or leafy vine like this: I call this.....Big Leaf Vine This design gets me warmed up and loose so I can sketch in my book or stitch into my quilts. Because it is my warm up design... it is so enjoyable to stitch....it relaxes me. 27 years ago I only dreamed of machine quilting... After years of practice and dedicating myself to getting as good as I want to be with machine quilting... I can stitch out the big leaf design and be totally happy with the quality of my work. You can add curls to the inside of the Big Leaf Vine You can echo the leaf inside the big leaf vine You can add large veins inside the big leaf vine Challenge yourself to try new designs. I added curls and different shapes of leaves to this big leaf vine. Get out your dry erase board and try out a design... it just might become your Warm Up! CLICK HERE to view my online sketch book CLICK HERE to view my free motion quilting CLICK HERE: to see My Quilts May Your Bobbin Always Be Full, LuAnn Kessi

Prepare to be Inspired...Road to California

I am currently snugged up at the Road to California quilt show in Ontario, California. The show premiere was held last night and the first full day of the show today. I spent the evening with my roomie/Superior Threads working partner, Annie, at the premiere last night and all I can say is we both had a big slice of "humble pie". This show is well known for its high-class quality quilts and this show was no exception. I'm always taking photos of parts/pieces of quilts and their workmanship to inspire me when I'm home so I thought I would share with you as well. Again, I am not including the name of the makers because I would more than likely assign the wrong name to the wrong quilt and that would be unforgiveable. If your quilt is pictured here I want to personally thank you for inspiring so many of us! ***I just received an inquiry regarding the bird and who the maker was. The bird was created by the very talented and well known quilter, Pat Blair. Pat also had a top-award winning quilt in the showcase at Road which was a beautifully painted gorilla face that she fondly named "Ben". I am always in awe of Pat's work and I have a particular love and fascination for birds. :) The very next blog post will include pictures of the Featured Artist at the show... Hugs, Cindy

This quilt was for the same customer as the pink and green quilt in the previous post.... They are both wedding quilts for weddings coming up this next week! I don't usually do 2 custom quilts in one week.... usually it takes me at least a week (or more) to do 1 custom quilting job! But I did it and my customer is thrilled! I didn't get finished pix of this sampler... customer arrived at my house before it was off the machine. I'm sure she would of waited for me to take pix but we had plans for the afternoon and her husband was waiting in the car... I know, excuses, excuses! You are just going to have to use your imagination for the rest of the quilt... LOL

V and Co. just dandy baby quilt pattern now available

well happy monday to you all! thank you for all the pre orders and love of mynew pattern. if you’ve pre-ordered you should of already received your pattern via email. if you would like to order please go here. this last weekend was the finish of the county fair…phew! i entered my just dandy quilt […]

Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!

I guess I’m on a leaf kick this week! This particular Flowing Leaves design is definitely going to be one...

Ready to learn a fun machine quilting design that will be perfect for a quick Christmas project? Let’s learn how...

Enjoy this quilting guide of 14 easy patterns. All of these basic quilt patterns for beginners can be downloaded to use with your project.

Free Quilting Patterns - Art Gallery Fabrics - Download your favorites!

Welcome to our FREE quilt patterns gallery. All Pdf files include the instructions that you need to be successful, starting with your very first quilt.

Longarm Quilting Services Beautiful Custom Freehand Quilting Let Me Quilt Your Quilt for You Machine Quilting DEPOSIT - Etsy

Freehand Custom Quilting Quilting done by me on my Bernina Q24. $75 minimum for quilting on small projects. Listing is deposit only and will be subtracted from your total due. Priced from 4 to 6 cents per square inch for freehand custom designs (non traditional, appliqué, detailed quilts and heavy quilting runs at the higher rate of 6 cents per square inch) *2019 Hamilton County Fair Grand Champion and Reserve champion quilts at our county fair were both client quilts that I quilted! *2021 Hamilton County Fair Grand Champion was my own quilt totally made by me. *2021 Nebraska State Fair, I received a first place ribbon and two fifth place ribbons for my quilts I entered. 2022 Nebraska State Fair I received a first place ribbon on a quilted Dream Big Panel I entered in the wholecloth division. 2023 Hamilton County Grand Champion was a client quilt I quilted. 2023 Nebraska State Fair client quilts received the Judges choice, Reserve champion, NACQJ award, and several first place ribbons. The pictures in my listing speak for themselves! Quilt top must be pressed and stray threads clipped from top. Backing must be AT LEAST 8” longer and 8” wider than the quilt top. Batting $8.50 per yard I also offer binding services at $2 per linear foot and embroidered corner labels starting at $19 each. Contact me to discuss quilting your next quilt for you!

Enjoy 24 of just some of my favorite modern quilts (plus a few bonus quilts) from QuiltCon 2020 in Austin, Texas. All descriptions were written by the makers. Prepare to be inspired! Quilts incorporating typography Quilts incorporating

Definition of Quilting Terms and Acronyms Do you wonder about the secret code used by quilters? Here is a list of quilt acronyms and terms.

This amazing quilt comes in three different sizes - 5x5, 6x6 and 7x7 hoops. This is a machine embroidery design and all sizes are included in your purchase. There are six different blocks in this design. The blocks are sewn in the hoop and then joined and backed with your sewing machine. Instructions are provided to create your own quilt of any size. Full photo instructions and directions are included with your purchase. It is our intention to offer you the best service always and for our designs to be of the highest quality. Designs are provided in 9 different embroidery formats. The formats included are: DST, EXP*, HUS, JEF, PEC, PES, VIP, VP3 and XXX. *BMP and INF files are also provided, these are recommended to be used with the EXP files for Bernina machines. SVG files are included for cutting machines. Please note the SVG format can be converted to FCM within the Brother Scan n Cut software if required. Sweet Pea Machine Embroidery Designs Cutting Files Disclaimer - click here Instruction are provided in English. We test and review each of our designs to ensure the highest quality. Depending on what hoop, fabric and stabiliser combination you are using, results may differ.

I have seen several of these Aunt Millie's Garden quilts done up at the shows I attended last year. Quite often they are appliqued on whit...

Made-to-order Whole Cloth Quilted Table Runner Made to Order - Etsy Canada

This is a made to order item. Each table runner is custom made and free hand quilted. Runners will vary. This runner measures approximately 14 x 46". If you want a different size, let me know. Price will increase if the size increases. If you would like a quilted whole cloth table runner of your own, just send me a message and we can design one together. You will be able to select the fabric color. This is a whole cloth quilted table runner using a solid piece of beige fabric. The binding is the same beige fabric. Binding was machine sewn to the front for durability, folded over and hand stitched to the back for a smooth finish. The backing is also the beige fabric. A whole cloth quilt is all about the quilting. I filled this runner with elaborate quilting motifs--swirls, feathers, straight lines, pebbles and large flowers. Take a look at the photos for an up close view of the quilting. This runner has not been washed. I recommend spot cleaning for as long as possible to keep the runner flat and crisp. If you do need to launder, machine wash gently in cold, remove promptly and lay flat to dry. Runner may shrink a small amount when washed for the first time. Runner measures approximately 14" x 46".

Modern Quilt Pattern, Scrappy Quilt beads on a String Create a Modern Quilt With Scraps, 54 X 60 More Sizes Instant Download PDF - Etsy

Modern quilt pattern for a scrappy quilt. The listing is for a PDF pattern of a beautiful modern quilt that is fun to make using your favorite scraps. You can keep it very simple by making each colorful block out of just one fabric or go all the way with foundation paper piecing using a variety of scraps, add dimension with trapunto, and add interest to the binding with piping. Other techniques for making the "bead" blocks are string piecing and improvisational piecing. The pattern will help you create a wall hanging or a lap quilt of 54" x 60" but, by adding additional rows and columns, this quilt can be easily turned into a bed quilt. Fabric requirements, links to technique tutorials, and three "bead" templates are offered.

Domino Quilt Pattern by Meghan of Then Came June. The Domino Quilt Pattern was inspired by retro black and white kitchen tiles. I love classic design mixed with modern fabrics. The pattern gives the quilt movement as the fabric placement changes and blocks rotate. It's a great beginner friendly pattern and really fun to use your favorite larger scale prints. This pattern requires beginner quilting knowledge. The pattern assumes quilter has knowledge of basic piecing and can use consistent 1/4" seam allowances. The pattern requires yardage. **This is a downloadable PDF, being instantly delivered to your email after your purchase is complete. Your download will only be available to download a limited amount of times. Please remember to save on the computer instead of opening on your phone. Feel free to print out as 8.5" x 11". The PDF includes a color it yourself quilt diagram. Pattern is for one person use only. Do not copy, redistribute or sell. You may sell quilts made using this pattern on a small independent scale. Please credit the quilt pattern to Then Came June. First two photos taken by Amy Wennerlind. Third photo, teal and pink, the quilt is made and photographed by Lindsey Neill of @penandpaperpatterns.

I was so close to being done, actually thought I was done and took this beast off the frame. Then decided the borders needed more quiltin...

IN THE HOOP Strip Quilt Block Machine Embroidery Download 3 Diff Sizes 6x6 7x7 8x8d121 - Etsy

THIS IS AN INSTANT DIGITAL EMBROIDERY DOWNLOAD. IT IS TO BE USED ON EMBROIDERY MACHINES ONLY. THE DIGITAL FILES CAN BE EXTRACTED FROM THE ZIPPED FOLDER. FORMATS INCLUDE ART,HUS,VIP,VP3,DST ,EXP,PES SEW.DST & XXX and jef A PDF COLOUR CHART IS ALSO INCLUDED. FULL COLOUR STEP BY STEP PICTURES ARE INCLUDED. There are no written instructions Please note : this block is intended for experienced quilters , not learners. The Trimming and attachment of more quilt blocks is up to the quilter. Instructions for in the hoop embroidery 1. Hoop the batting as the stabilizer. 2. Sew out the first color.( the numbers do not have to be sewn out. IT only indicates the order of blocks.) 3. This shows you block placement. 4. Place your first block right side up on number 1. 5. Sew out red color 6. Place your second block/ fabric over the first one but wrong side up. 7. Sew the straight seam down (green color ) 8. Flip the fabric over onto its right side & sew down with color red 9. Continue with all blocks

Explore kellymeanix's 167 photos on Flickr!

Dream Big in Technicolor #2 © 2019 Patricia E. Ritter, Melonie J. Caldwell and Natalie Gorman Fits Hoffman Dream Big Panel or can be used as a wholecloth on fabric of your choice. FABRIC PANEL SOLD SEPARATELY DIGITAL (computerized quilting systems): Zip file includes: BQM, CQP, DXF, HQF, IQP, PAT, QLI, SSD, TXT, WMF and 4QB or PLT. Most designs also include a DWG, GPF, PDF, PNG and SVG. TEAR AWAY: Pack includes THREE sections to fit Hoffman's Dream Big panel

Made new stockings on Sunday and finished them up last night!! I'm pretty pleased with them....I've never been happy with my ability to quilt up letters, so the cuffs aren't my favorite, but I can always change them down the road. For now it works and my kids like them ;o) I only have time to post pictures today....no details, to much last minute quilts to do, but I think the pictures explain what I did and how I did it....pretty well...... I got this quilting idea from Judi, with Green Fairy Quilts....thanks Judi! Very BRIGHT...but fun. I did up the green ones for the boys and let them pick their favorite and the girls picked out there design before I quilted them up. Still haven't had a chance to quilt up my Christmas quilt...but maybe that will be my Christmas Eve activity. ~Jenny~

More Quilting Lovelies from the Columbus NQA Show

This is part 2 of a two part post. Part 1 can be found here. Here are some more stunners to share with you from the recent NQA quilt show in Columbus, Ohio. Click to enlarge It was made by Jackie Aguilar. I love how she used the applique to provide a border boundary of color around the outside of the quilt. Click to e

"Celtic Bubbles" It's a blustery miserably cold day here so I did some quilting and took some photos of this beautiful design. I have taught it in classes for years but never published it. It's one of those universal patterns, found in all areas of design from textiles to concrete. You may look down at your bathroom towel and see it in terry, or be wiping your feet on a doormat that is made up of this design! I first quilted it many years ago, sitting at my machine and doodling around, warming up, usually after an oiling so I get all the excess worked through before working on my project in the machine. I did it on muslin, and it looked so amazing I pinned it to the wall, thinking that someday I would use it in a quilt. There are variations of this I'll do in a future post. Students either prefer the circles, above, or other shapes that might be easier for them. Circles are fairly easy even for beginners, and the only difficult part is the tiny bit of travel as one Bubble collides with another. "Shadow Leaves" with floating Celtic Bubbles Currently I prefer to fill in all spaces with the design, or arcs from it in the odd spaces left between circles. However, originally I "floated" the bubbles across the surface, much like blowing bubbles, how they appear floating in the air, seen in photo, above. Some were clustered, some were solitary, and the spaces between them had to be filled. I used a close background like bananas or stippling, but now fill in with portions of other circles as it looks better to me and is SO much FASTER. The feather, above, was a sample from my class demo piece. I started filling in with Celtic Bubbles around it to see if it would be do-able as a background fill, and it is. In the future I think I would make sure the last echo around a design is the same color thread used for the Bubbles, so the travel stitching on that last echo would not show as much. This design goes fairly fast. It is not continuous. Each spiral is one complete unit. Each one is begun in the center. Work out from that first circle, echoing it, keeping spacing even. When you finish each one it is necessary to cut the threads and start a new one a short distance away. One of the key factors for success in this design is that you MUST stop after each one and cut the threads. This small interruption in your work keeps your focus at a high level, gives you a small break, lets you look at your work and see what to change as you move on. I find that the quality of the finished work is so worth having to cut the thread for each unit you quilt. Students have had spectacular results. Trust me. Quilting the Design: I began my sample by marking a 6" square on a larger piece of fabric, layered with wool batt, and muslin for backing. Give yourself plenty of room at the edges to hold the quilt. I am using #100 chartreuse silk thread for the quilting on a lilac cotton sateen. Starting at a left bottom area/corner works well for most designs as it is easiest to build the design to the right and UP. Try and do the first bubble in a fairly inconspicuous spot as it will probably not be your best one. Here I can end my first spiral at a line, and if you quilt it in open space, you must end the final row by merging into a previous round, and then cut threads, see photo below. This way is better so there is no problem with ending the spiral. Center spiral below was the first one quilted with the final round merged back into the spiral, threads cut. It's better to start at the bottom so your first spiral isn't the focal point! After a few rounds stitching over the thread tails, see photo above, I stop and cut the threads before proceeding. Thread tails are a visual distraction and every time you approach them while quilting you might veer off course, slow down, speed up, something. However if you HATE to stop and lose your momentum and concentration, it is fine to wait until the single bubble is complete and then cut those thread tails at the center. My best advice for the start of this design is to relax, and don't think too much about which dirction to spiral. I sometimes quilt my spirals clockwise and sometimes counter-clockwise; there is no right or wrong. It's nice to be consistent throughout the design, so don't decide which way you will circle, just begin and do it. Your body does what is natural. In this exercise I seem to have quilted them all counter-clockwise! But I have been known to take a break, come back, and quilt in the other direction. It all adds to the character of the quilt....do not worry about it. OK, let's begin! Insert needle, pull up bobbin thread, hold both threads gently with left finger. I take about 7 very small stitches to begin and then cut the thread at the quilt surface. If you choose to bury thread tails, leave them long, bury later. Start out at a slower controlled even speed. My spacing is a fat 1/8" or can go up to a scant 1/4". Try to keep within that zone as greater spacing will be a bit more difficult, especially on a home machine and for the first time you try this. This first circle you quilt is very important as it establishes the shape for the entire first "Bubble." If you quilt an egg shape as you begin, the Bubble will be egg shaped. And that is fine. Don't obsess over getting perfect circles; just go for it and try and make the spiral evenly spaced with good even stitches. After cutting the thread tails, carefully begin quilting and continue echoing the spiral. Quilt until you hit something - another spiral (in the future after this one is done), and here, the blue marked line, or in a quilt, a seam, edge, quilting design, applique, edge of piecing, etc. When you get to that edge or stopping point, slow down a bit, stitch on it, and travel to the place where you continue the next round. Here I have hit the blue line and filled in the corner with short parallel arcs, keeping the spacing as even as I can. Don't worry too much if the spacing isn't exactly the same. After you've quilted more of the Bubbles, it will all look so much better. My sprials are not perfect in this sample. My excuse is I lost momentum and concentration because I had to stop and take photos. I also got really upset when my machine started doing odd things, skipping stitches, doing funny jumping things with the needle. It turned out I had bumped my screen with the small light I was using for photos, and turned on some weird combi-stitch. I rebooted and was ok, but my quilting was shaky for a round or two. Cut the threads. Next step: Begin the second Bubble, photo above. Insert needle less than an inch from the outside of the first spiral you just finished. Begin the same way, establish the circle design for a few rounds, stop and cut threads, and spiral away. Tip! If you begin the second motif too far from the outer edge of the first one, the second one will become extremely large, look out of place, and be way more difficult to quilt on a home machine. Longarmers won't have this issue though. Here I have stopped and will cut the threads. Continue spiraling, perhaps increasing machine speed so the curved lines are smooth. Be careful not to move hands faster as you spiral out, or the stitches will increase dramatically in size. The small even stitches help maintain smoothness of design, and create "puff" in the finished design. Large stitches let the puff leak out and your spirals will be flat. Now we begin "layering" the Bubbles. As you spiral around the second one, quilt until you collide with the adjacent Bubble, the first one you quilted. Slow down a bit, and stitch on the outside line of that first Bubble out to where you can continue the correct spacing and quilt the next spiral. This technique makes it appear that the second spiral is partially hidden by the first one, or "layered." Above, I have hit the first Bubble and stopped. I will quilt on that line, to the left a few stitches to establish spacing, then quilt away from that point, around my spiral, below. The catch is, you will be reversing your direction here. You collided with the first Bubble as you quilted towards it, then stitched on it to the left, and now are quilting back away from that first Bubble. Tip: Don't turn the quilt. You may tweak its position in the machine a bit to see better, but it's best to look behind the foot and estimate the spacing. Do not look at the needle. You will get better at this with practice. I ask you not to turn this small sample (even though it would be soooooo easy to do it) so that you build your skill and when a larger quilt is in your home machine, you will know how to quilt away from yourself and do it correctly and easily. Do the same thing as you come around the spiral and hit the first Bubble on the lower side. Slow a bit, stitch on the last line of that first Bubble, then quilt away from it keeping the spacing even, around to the other side. Isn't this so pretty??!! Tip: An open-toe foot really lets you see the line you are traveling on so this small amount of two sets of stitches will not be noticeable. It would be extremely time consuming to cut threads when you hit another line, so this method works well to get you to the next round of the spiral. Keep going as many rounds as look right to you. Some Bubbles are larger, some smaller; this makes the design interesting. The larger the Bubble becomes, the more difficult to quilt that huge curve on a home machine. Be aware as the Bubble increases in size, you might tend to make straighter lines and lose the nice round you began with. Longarm quilters will have an easier time with these large shapes. Here are the first two Bubbles (or spirals, but Bubbles float so nicely....) completed. Threads will be cut at the quilt after tiny overlapping stitches on a previous line of quilting are made to lock them in. Note that my final big round is beginning to flatten out a bit. I knew it was time to quit and begin a THIRD BUBBLE, below. Tip: You might want to take a small break now, pat yourself on the back and look at those gorgeous spirals before starting Bubble #3. Here I began the third Bubble, and quilted to the right as far as I liked because I ran out of room to do a complete spiral. I traveled on the blue marked line (a ditch or seam in a real quilt), and on the last quilted line of my second Bubble on the top part. I stopped, cut the threads, and will fill in the space at the bottom next. All filled in! Keep going like this, beginning the next center less than an inch out from a quilted spiral edge. Keep going, fill in spaces, take breaks if you need to. You can see that the areas stitched twice are hardly noticeable. The color of the fabric is affected by the lighting. Under the needle it is in fluorescent light from the machine, and the photo above is natural light. More Bubbles completed!! A stack of Bubbles..... I could stop now at this point of the design, and do another design in the top portion, or continue adding spirals, filling in odd spaces, always traveling over another line to get to my next row. Sometimes, alas, you do get into a spot where you must cut the threads. It doesn't happen often, but accept it, move on, look across the room to refresh your eyes, pet your cat or dog. Complete!! Not all round, not all perfect, but very pretty. The entire square is now filled with these lovely Bubbles. There is depth and dimension, so much texture and visual interest. This design even shows up well on prints. Any parallel line quilting will show well on most fabrics. The design is not marked. It goes fast, stands alone as a terrific design, or can be used as background. It's harder to do that, but not impossibly difficult. Instead of colliding with another spiral, you will be colliding with a quilted design such as a feather or anything else you have quilted and want to set off nicely. You do need some space to make this design show or it will be fragmented too much in small spaces. Tips: Because the lines are arcs and not straight, this design doesn't distort or push/pull excess fabric and batt to form pleats. If you find as you approach a quilted line from the previous spiral and excess is building up a bit, slow down and allow the fabric to ease into your quilting. Also reduce the pressure on the foot just a bit so the free motion foot will float over the excess fabric. Quilt at a nice even speed. You might increase the speed as you get comfortable, or as the spirals increase in size. If you go too slow, the stitches get HUGE. Speed up the machine, slow down your hands. Slow down for the traveling stitches so you are accurate. This design looks so beautiful if you can't see where you had to stitch twice. On the bigger spirals you will have to stop and move your hands. Stop the machine as well. Then begin slowly and I even stitch once or twice "in place" and then proceed to eliminate the tell-tale wobble when you have to start and stop in the middle of a stretch of quilting. Work on spacing. Visualize the path or "puff" between the rows of stitching, not the lines themselves. Look down the path not at the needle. Quilt at a speed that gives you control, good spacing, and even stitches. Your speed will increase as you become comfortable. In a Real Quilt, the marked square would first be quilted to stabilize it and prevent the square from becoming distorted. It might be a corner square, part of a pieced block, a section of border and the ditches would be quilted first for stabilization. Don't get discouraged, keep going. The only way to become good at this is to do it often, each day for awhile, until it is natural. Locking the technique into muscle memory is important. As soon as you become fairly pleased with your work, use it on a REAL QUILT. Don't put the sample away and move on. Make a small piece using this design to see how it looks in something REAL. Above is a piece of fabric with this design I bought at The Back Porch quilt shop in Pacific Grove, CA. I had a senior moment and left my package on a bench in town while waiting for a cab, and someone found it, came out to Asilomar where I was teaching and left it at the desk, where it was delivered to me in the main hall that very evening by a handsome park ranger! I was thrilled. Of course I bought it because it was a great sample of this quilting design. Below, a towel I bought when I saw the design. I couldn't resist, and then the purple pillow from just after Christmas, same story. The rounds on the pillow are from a digitized design/machine and each round is complete, rather than a spiral that is continuous. Fortunately these things were very inexpensive....! You can find the design in many places, it's classic and wonderful and is any style of quilting, from funky and modern to classic formal quilting. Good luck with your quilting, let me know how it goes. My email is dianequilter@sbcglobal if you have a finished sample photo for me to see. Post questions in comments, and I'll do a future post and answer them for all to read. Meanwhile, warm up the machine, give it some oil, make up a bunch of layered samples, and give this a try. I'll post variations of the design for you to try next time. Keep quilting! Your work gets better every freezing day..... Diane

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