La muñeca Barbie es una de las mejores vestidas desde hace varias décadas! Hoy te ofrecemos esta hermosa colección de vestidos fantásticos tejidos a crochet,cada uno es una obras de arte, realizados para cada ocasión.

Weer twee superleuke patroontjes gevonden op de Barbie-club waarvan ik lid ben. De gele is precies volgens patroon gehaakt, de groene ietsjes aangepast.

This shorts and cropped top design was inspired by shopping with my granddaughters in Topshop. The pattern is worked in continuous rounds through the back loop only for a softer fabric. It was a bit tricky writing down the instructions for the shorts but I put in some photos that should help. If you have any problems with the pattern please let me know. I used Patons soft cotton 4ply as I have a stash of various colours to use up, but any 4ply should work. Check your tension as yarns can differ in thickness and can make a bit difference with such a small garment. I would love to hear from you so please leave me a comment if you try the pattern. Barbie crochet shorts and cropped top To fit: 12" Barbie (the latest model) Materials: 25g 4ply yarn will make both items, Crochet hook no 3.5 Tension: (Gauge) 24sts x 26 rows to 4" over dc using 3.50 hook (check your tension and use suitable size hook) Abbreviations: Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet) ch: chain, slst: slip stitch, inc: increase, rnd/s: round/s dec1dc: insert hook into next dc pull through yarn, insert hook into next dc pull through yarn, yarn over hook and pull all sts off Notes: This item is a close fit so any differences in yarn weight will make a smaller or larger garment. Cotton thread is not suitable. Work through the back loop only for a softer fabric Place a marker at the beginning of each round to keep track of number of rounds Shorts Right leg Using no 3.5 hook, make 20ch Join into a round by making dc in first ch then work in continuous rounds Rnds 1:3: dc all around Pull yarn through and fasten off. leave a long enough tail for sewing seam Left leg As right leg , Don’t fasten off yarn, Body Position of legs before next round 　 　 work body of shorts across both legs as follows: Rnd 1: 1dc in next 9dc,of left leg, miss 1dc, continue across to right leg, miss 1dc, 1dc in next 18dc, miss 1dc, continue across to left leg, miss 1dc, 1dc in next 9dc. (36dcs) After Rnd 1 Rnd 2: 1dc in next 8dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 16dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 8dc (34dcs) Rnd 3: 1dc in next 7dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 15dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 8dc (32dcs) Rnd 4: 1dc in next 7dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 14dc, dec1dc, 1dc in next 7dc (30dcs) Rnd 5: dc all around Rnd 6: dec1dc, 1dc in next 13dc, dec1dc, dc to end (28dcs) Rnd 7: dec1dc, 1dc in next 12dc, dec1dc, dc to end (26dcs) Rnd 8: dc all around Pull yarn through and fasten off 　 　 Top Using 3.5 hook make 28ch Join into a round by making dc in first ch then work in continuous rounds Rnd 1:6: dc all around Rnd 7: 1dc in each of next 6dc, make 9ch, miss 2dc, 1dc in each of next 12dc, make 9ch, miss 2dc, dc to end Rnd 8: 1dc in each of next 4dc, dec1dc, 1 dc in each of 9ch, dec1dc, 1dc in each of next 8dc, dec1dc, 1dc in each of next 9ch, dec1dc, dc to end Slst in next dc, pull yarn though and fasten off. Edging Rejoin yarn to centre back of base of top, right side facing. 3ch, 2trs in same space, (miss 1ch, 1dc in next ch, miss 1ch, 3trs in next ch) repeat around base of top (approx 8 clusters) Pull yarn through and fasten off. To finish Sew seam of shorts. Neaten all ends.

VER PATRÓN TRADUCCION Patrones BARBIE amigurumi POR: freeamigurumi.blogkb Publicado en: Agosto 2023 Tipo de patrón: Escr...

Here comes the bride! How about a handmade crochet dress for Barbie's wedding? Mermaid style evening gowns have always been my favorite, so I designed this bridal dress in the same style. The crochet technique used here allows for intricate pattern that create the flowing, graceful lines of a mermaid gown, making Barbie's wedding outfit

Baixe e imprima gratuitamente moldes de modelagem de conjuntinhos para bonecas Barbie e produza lindas peças!

This design is made in 4ply yarn - ideal for using up those scraps of 4ply in your stash. The legs of the pants are knit separately and then joined to knit the body with a centre back seam. The cropped top is worked in one piece to armhole shaping with a centre back seam and one button fastening. I've also added a cute headband! If you try the pattern please let me know if you have any problems Thanks for your interest. Barbie knitted capri pants and cropped top pattern The pants have side leg seams and centre back seam. The top has a centre back seam with a button fastening To fit: 12 in Barbie (latest model) Materials: approx 25g 4ply knitting yarn in main and contrast colour, 1 small button Needles size 3mm, and 3.25mm ( US 2 and 3) Tension: 30sts and 36rows over 4 in (stocking stitch) using 3.25 needles Abbreviations: k: knit, p: purl, beg: beginning, sts: stitches, yon: yarn on needle, rep: repeat, ss: stocking stitch, m1 pick up loop between sts and knit into back, tog: together, dec: decrease, inc: increase, psso: pass slipped stitch over Capri Pants Right leg Using smaller needles and main cast on 14sts Work 4 rows garter stitch (every row knit) Change to larger needles Work 4 rows ss Inc 1st at each end of next and every following 6th row to 22sts ending wrong side Work 2 rows ss* Next row: Cast off 1st, k to end Next row: Cast off 3sts p to end Fasten off yarn leave a long enough tail for sewing leg seam Leave 18sts on holder Left leg Work as right leg to * Next row: Cast off 3sst, k to end Next row: Cast off 1st p to end Do not fasten off yarn Joining legs Slip sts from right leg onto left hand needle with right side facing, Slip sts from left leg onto left hand needle with right side facing, (see photo) 36sts on left hand needle The 3 cast off sts should be on either side of the row. Work as follows: (K2tog, k14, k2tog) 2 times, across 36sts Next row: purl Next row: k2tog, k29, k2tog Work 5 row ss ending with a purl row Change to small needles Work 4 rows of k1, p1, rib Cast off loosely in rib. Cropped Top Using smaller needles and contrast cast on 30sts Work 2 rows garter stitch Change to main Work 2 rows garter stitch Change to larger needles and contrast Work 4 rows ss Next row: Cast on 2sts, k to end (the 2 cast on stitches are for the under flap of back opening) 32sts Next row: k2, p to last 2sts k2 Next row: knit Repeat last 2 rows one time Next row: k2, p to last 2sts k2 Shape armhole Next row: k8, cast off 3sts, k12, cast of 3sts, k to end Next row: (buttonhole row) k2tog, yon, p4, cast on 9sts, p12, cast on 9sts, p6, k2 Change to main Cast of loosely knit wise, when casting off work k2tog at either side of 9 cast on sts to shape neckline. Fasten off yarn. Headband Using no 10 needles and main colour, cast on 30sts Work 2 rows in garter stitch Cast off, sew into a round To finish Capri pants - sew side leg seams and rear seam. Fasten off all ends Top Sew back seam to cast on sts of back edging, slst border flap in place. Sew on small button to correspond with buttonhole.

Follow this free tutorial to sew a gorgeous vintage style pink gingham dress based on the iconic Barbie Movie costume.

We all got kids who love playing with dolls, especially dressing them up. Trouble is, getting new outfits gets pricey and sometimes, you just cant find the right style.

Encuentra idas de tejidos de vestidos a crochet para muñecas, patrones a seguir y puntos utilizados, a tu hija le encantaran.

🎀 "Welcome to the World of Barbie Couture!" 🎀 Barbie, our timeless fashion icon, has stepped into the spotlight once again. But ...

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Je vous propose aujourd'hui une tenue estivale pour Mademoiselle Barbie Fournitures : du coton rose, un crochet 2 et 2 petits boutons Abréviations utilisées : ml : maille en l'air ms : maille serrée mc : maille coulée bs : bride simple pic : picot (3ml, ms dans la 1ere ml) Exécution de la robe : chainette : 44ml 1er rang : 3ml, 1bs dans les 5 mailles suivantes, 3bs dans la maille suivante, 3ml, sauter 9 mailles, 3bs dans la maille suivante, 1bs dans les 10 mailles suivantes, 3bs dans la maille suivante, 3ml, sauter 9 mailles, 3bs dans la maille suivante, 1bs dans les 6 dernières mailles, tourner 2eme rang : 3ml, un rang de bs, tourner 3eme rang : 3ml, 1bs dans la maille suivante, 3bs rabattues ensembles, 1bs dans les 4 mailles suivantes, 3bs rabattues ensembles, 1bs dans la maille suivante, 3bs rabattues ensembles, 1bs dans les 8 mailles suivantes, 3bs rabattues ensembles, 1bs dans la maille suivante, 3bs rabattues ensembles, 1bs dans les 4 mailles suivantes, 3bs rabattues ensembles, 1bs dans les 2 dernières mailles suivantes, tourner 4eme au 6eme rang : 3ml, un rang de bs, tourner 7eme rang : 3ml et 1bs dans la 1ere maille, 1bs dans les 4 mailles suivantes, *2bs dans la maille suivante, 1bs dans les 4 mailles suivantes*, répéter de * à * jusqu'à la fin du rang (terminer par 2bs, 1bs dans les 2 dernières mailles), fermer par 1mc 8eme au 13eme rang : 3ml, un rang de bs, fermer par 1mc 14eme rang : *1ms, 3ml, sauter 1 maille*, répéter de * à * jusqu'à la fin du rang, fermer par 1mc 15eme rang : dans le 1er arceau faire 3ml, 2bs, 1pic et 3bs, *1ms dans l'arceau suivant, 3bs, 1pic et 3bs dans l'arceau suivant*, répéter de * à * jusqu'à la fin du rang, fermer par 1mc et couper le fil Coudre les 2 boutons au dos de la robe (l'espace entre 2 mailles sert de boutonnière Exécution du chapeau : chainette : 5ml, fermer par 1mc 1er rang : 3ml, 11bs, fermer par 1mc 2eme rang : 3ml et 1bs dans la 1ere maille, puis 2bs dans chaque maille, fermer par 1mc 3eme rang : 3ml et 1bs dans la 1ere maille, 1bs dans la maille suivante, *2bs dans la maille suivante, 1bs dans la maille suivante*, répéter de * à * jusqu'à la fin du rang, fermer par 1mc 4eme et 5eme rang : 3ml et un rang de bs, fermer par 1mc 6eme rang : *1ms, 3ml, sauter 1 maille*, répéter de * à * jusqu'à la fin du rang, fermer par 1mc 7eme rang : dans le 1er arceau faire 3ml, 2bs, 1pic et 3bs, 1ms dans l'arceau suivant, *3bs, 1pic et 3bs dans l'arceau suivant, 1ms dans l'arceau suivant*, répéter de * à * jusqu'à la fin du rang, fermer par 1mc et couper le fil Bon crochet à toutes

Je souhaite une belle journée à tous mes visiteurs . Aujourd'hui reprise du coton et du crochet pour une jolie tenue d'été pour Barbie avec un très joli modèle proposé par Pipiou. Pour commencer une robe blanche au bustier rayé rouge et blanc , petites...

Here is a new crochet pattern to create your very own sweet amigurumi doll, Julie. She has curly red hair and wears a trendy sapphire jumpsuit.

A silk shirt for her and a Yohji inspired cotton shirt for him. Whether it's for the Ken doll or just for Barbie, nothing is more quintessentially chic than the all time fashion staple....the shirt. For the Ken doll, this item opens the possibilities to create countless casual and urbanwear gear. For Barbie, it's a wonderful summertime garment that always looks fresh and never goes out of style. That said, keep in mind that unless you make a coat with very deep sleeves, the doll won't be able to slip anything else on over her shirt. This is primarily why I feature largely sleeveless dresses. When I have examined the clothes Mattel provides for Ken, even his wedding suit is a 3-in-1 trompe l'oeil costume like that worn by Chippendale strippers. (Richard was so kind as to point this out to me.) Today's posting focuses on the basic shirt for both sexes of dolls. Rather than mark Ken for slopers, I took the easier route by duplicating the shirt delivered with Ken by tracing off the shirt pattern (see Trace of Style) to make a basic toile. Add pieces of fabric with tape to introduce new proportions to your pattern. The original shirt was smaller and shorter than the proportions I desired . After duplicating it, I put it on the doll, being sure to mark the CF and CB lines. For adding volume or length, slash your toile where you want more fullness or length, then add more fabric, taping it in place. Once you are happy with your new proportions, mark where the new seams, hemline, armhole or neckline should be. Remove from the doll to create a new pattern. Cut this pattern out in fabric. Pin together and try on the doll. If it still needs adjusting, add or subtract fabric. It is very important this pattern is correct because all other styles will depend on how well this draft fits. I made a couple toiles before I was happy. Create half a pattern so that both sides will be symmetric. Mark the CF, CB, all seams and style details on your toile. Create half a pattern for symmetry. Check that side seams are equal in length. I had some problems with the collar. So I waited until I had sewn the toile together, then measured the neck hole to ensure a proper fit. My front placket is the edge folded twice over to the front, then stitched in place. If you don't want a placket, fold it to the underside and stitch. Unless you are doing something fancy with the cuff, sew it onto to edge of the sleeve before you sew the underarm of the sleeve. A well fitting shirt with just the right amount of volume! I'm featuring two types of sleeves for the girl doll. The first is a simple dress shirt, like the kind you would wear with a suit. An easy to make simple "dress shirt." Trace off the front bodice sloper. Ignore the dart. Measure 1/4 inch on the right of the CF line. From the neckline measure 3 1/2 inch and drop the new line. Straighten the seam under the arm so that drops perpendicular to the hem. From the bottom line, make a mark roughly 1/4 inch up. Now draw your curve at the bottom. For the back sloper, measure the length of the underarm length of the front pattern to get the proper length for the back. Also note where you shortened it on the side for the curve. In this blouse, I am not adding a collar. Instead, I've made a facing by drawing a line 3/8 inch away from the neckline at the back. For the front draw this line so that it looks like that in the illustration. Trace the front facing. Flip. Then add this piece to the front pattern along that new center line. I've used the regular sleeve. The final pattern is featured below. This makes for a nice blouse. However, if we want to create the women's version of the men's classic shirt, we'll need the next draft. The oversize shirt pattern features a deep, dropped shoulder sleeve, a cuff and a back yoke if you so desire. The chic of a crisp linen shirt over a halter top and jeans. Begin with the front sloper. Again, ignore the dart. I decided to add quite a bit of length, so I dropped the center line by 5 inches from the neckline. At the neck shoulder tip, draw a straight horizontal line equal in length from the shoulder tip to the underarm line (see close up) minus 1/4 inch. Measure 1/4 inch down from the underarm tip and mark. Now draw a vertical line straight down to the hem. At the front, add 1/2 inch to the right of the CF line. Make a curve at the underarm. Decide how deep you want the side curve for the tails. Mine is marked to start at 3/4 inch up from the hem. Draw your curve. Take your sleeve sloper and measure out from the cap to the wrist minus 1/4 inch. Draw a horizontal line from the new shoulder tip of the oversized shirt pattern and another from the underarm tip. Join with a vertical line. Draw a diagonal line from the underarm point to the mid-point of the vertical line (at sleeve hem). This will result in a squared off triangle. Trace this off and add to the top to get the sleeve. For the back, flip your front shirt pattern. Line up the back sloper to this pattern. You will maintain the neckline of the back sloper but trace off the rest of the front pattern. If you want a yoke, simply place a horizontal line at the point you want it. Here, I've place my slash line 1/4 inch down from the neck. You will add seam allowance and stitch these two pieces back together. You can also decide to leave the back in a single piece. For cuffs, create a rectangle: measure the length of the sleeve at the hem, add 1 inch. Fold in half horizontally and press. Sew onto the hem of the sleeves before preceding. If you have opted for the yoke, sew this to the back bodice, press. Baste together and stitch the front and back patterns along the shoulder line. Next, stitch the sleeves to the bodice while everything is still flat. Fold over to the wrong side of the garment and stitch the sleeves along the under arm and down the side seam of the shirt. Measure the neckline and create your collar. Create a rectangle the same width of your neckline plus 1/2 inch (or more). Add seam allowance. The complete pattern should resemble the one pictured here. You can use all different types of fabrics. Bulkier ones or leathers will yield you a shirt-jacket. By lengthening this pattern and adding a self belt, you have a "shirtwaist dress." Follow us on Twitter: @FashDollStylist All images and text property of © Fashion Doll Stylist. 2013. Please do not reproduce without prior permission.

Looking to create your own Barbie dress? Check out Ashlea Crafts' free PDF pattern and step-by-step tutorial.

Here's a long list of free printable doll clothes patterns to sew for your 11.5" doll (such as Barbie) including skirts, dresses, and more!

www.ravelry.com/projects/GFTC/mesh-tote www.ravelry.com/projects/GFTC/barbies-five-easy-pieces

Barbie’s cape with hood is dramatic for wearing out to the opera over one of her long evening dresses (which you can make yourself also). Instructions for saving and printing jpg or pd…

This little sweater is very similar to my Teddy ribbed jacket, same simple rib and the current trend of block colours. Made in 4ply it takes less than 20g of yarn great for using up all those tiny amounts. The pink/blue and white sweater was made in oddments of Rico 4ply but unfortunately its now out of production (shows how long i had it stashed away). For the mustard/green and grey sweater I used Stylecraft life 4ply which has a great range of trendy colours. The back and front is made in one piece (see photo) with the sleeves picked up at the shoulders and a button fastening at the back for ease of fit The back is slightly longer than the front but can be simply adjusted to any length you want. I have done short sleeves but can be made longer before starting the decreasing. Its a bit fiddly with all those ends so I leave a longish strand when changing colour for sewing seams and, if I'm honest, usually end up knotting other ends where possible. Pattern To fit: 12 in Barbie (as the sweater is a loose style it would also fit the Fashionista dolls) Materials: approx 10g each of 4ply yarn in 3 colours Needles size 3.25mm (US3) (if you want a tighter fit use 3mm needles, 1 small button Tension: 28sts and 36 rows over 4 in (ribbed pattern) using 3.25 needles Abbreviations: k: knit, p: purl, st:stitch, sl: slip patt: pattern, beg: beginning, yf: yarn forward, dec: decrease, tog: together, psso: pass slipped st over front and Back knit in one piece from front hem to back hem Cast on 25sts in colour A Row 1 knit Row 2 (k1, p1) to last st, k1 These two rows form the pattern, repeat 5 times (12rows patt) Change to colour B and patt 12 rows (place a marker at each end of 10th row) Change to colour C, patt 6 rows, Divide for neck Patt 9sts, cast of next 7sts, patt to end turn Working on 9sts for right front row 1 (wrong side) Patt to end row 2 sl1, k1, psso, patt to end rows 3:4: Repeat last 2 rows (7sts) rows 5:7: Patt 3 rows row 8: cast on 6sts, patt to end (keeping patt correct) 13sts row 9: patt to end row 10: Buttonhole row: k2tog, yf, patt to end row 11:18: pattern 7 rows Fast off yarn keep 13sts on needle Rejoin colour C to remaining 9 sts, left front wrong side facing row 1: patt to end row 2: patt to last 2sts, k2tog rows 3:4: Repeat last 2 rows (7sts) rows 5:8: Patt 4rows row 9: cast on 5sts, patt to end (keeping patt correct) 12sts row 10:18: patt 9 rows Fasten off colour C, join colour B Pattern across 12sts, then continue across right front 25sts Work 11 rows patt in B, change to A and work 16 rows (adjust length here if you want) Fasten off yarn Sleeves Using colour B, and 3.25 needles, pick up and knit 19sts along edge between markers Beg with the second row of patt, work 13 rows pattern at the same time dec 1 st at each end of 6th row. 17sts Cast off Sew side and sleeve seams, sew on small button to match buttonhole. fasten off ends

This Coat is designed to fit the new Barbie Fashionista doll

Here's a long list of free printable doll clothes patterns to sew for your 11.5" doll (such as Barbie) including skirts, dresses, and more!

Accueillons-le avec un combishort d'un jaune éclatant ! c’est le modèle 193b que bous trouverez sur le site de Stickatillbarbie

Fun pink Barbie coat!

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Chuẩn bị barbie english pattern

Here's another sundress for Barbie. This is a version on my earlier sundress but I've jazzed it up a bit. I've also added a hairband - just make enough chains to fit round the doll's head then work a round of dc. The dress is a pull on, great for small hands, has a shaped bodice and worked in one piece from the top down. Make sure the bodice is a tight fit so it stays put, or you could make straps as in my other summer dress pattern. Please leave me a comment if you make this item - i value feedback. To fit: 12” Barbie or other fashion dolls Materials: approx 30g 4ply yarn main colour. 20g of contrast colour Crochet hook 3mm and 3.25mm hook (or size to match tension) Tension: (Gauge) 22sts x 25 rows to 4” over dc (check your tension and use suitable size hook) Abbreviations: Dc: double crochet (US single crochet), tr: treble crochet, (US double crochet), htr: half treble, ch: chain, slst: slip stitch. Note: This dress is worked in rounds from the top down. Work all dc through the back loop only for a softer fabric, work clusters through both loops Sundress Bodice Using no 3mm hook and main colour make 28 chain and work in rounds as follows: Base Round: 1dc in each of next 10ch, 1htr in each of next 3ch, 1slst in each of next 2ch, 1htr in each of next 3ch, 1dc in each of next 10ch Next Round: 1dc in each of next 10dc, 1htr in each of next 3htr, 1slst in each of next 2slst, 1htr in each of next 3htr, 1dc in each of next 10dc Repeat last round 2 times. Change to contrast and work 2 rounds dc around Do not fasten off yarn, leave at back of work Skirt Change to main colour and using 3.25 hook work as follows: * Next round: slst in top of first dc, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr in same dc, (miss 1 dc, 3tr in next dc) to end. (14 clusters) Next round: slst in top of 3ch, slst into next tr, 3ch, 2tr in same tr, (3tr into middle tr of next cluster) repeat to end Repeat last round 1 time (3 rounds of 14 clusters) Change to contrast and work 2 rounds dc around** Repeat from * to ** 2 times (approx 30 clusters on last round) Pull yarn through and fasten off To finish Neaten all ends Bag Using no 3mm hook and main colour, make 26 ch. Work 6 rounds dc Change to contrast yarn and work 3 rounds dc Next round: miss next dc, dc 12 miss next dc, dc to end. Pull yarn through and fasten off Bag Strap Using no 3mm hook and main colour, make 24 chain. Work one row dc. Pull yarn through and fasten off. Stitch strap to bag. Motifs make 1 in each colour Using no 3mm hook make 3 chain, Work 6 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Pull yarn through and fasten off Stitch motifs on bag as shown on photo. Work daisy stitch in green yarn for stems and leaves To finish Sew bottom seam, Neaten all ends

As you all know, I have a 6 year old daughter. This I something I have been meaning to do...make Barbie doll clothes. I do have a sewing machine. But I hate getting it out. It atm is blocking an outlet that protects josh from getting to it and pulling the plug on our AC. So anyways. Yes finally I have made time to create some quick and simple Barbie doll clothes that don't make my daughters Barbies look like "sluts" yes I hate all the modern clothes. I like my Barbies to look well dressed. Hahaha! I did want to crochet them as well. Just like my mom used to do for us as kids. But that also takes up much time and my son would be like a cat...acting my yarn. I wanted to beable to do this while he was out and about. No needles and thread and all that. Just something basic. So below you will see some pictures. And explanation of each dress for the most part. On the silver dress I did see but you don't have to. There are other ways. Anyways on with the No Sew This dress is one be cut out rectangle with two holes. You can cut the top part in a scope shape. The holes I just cut a lil niche and pulled and then rounded out the corners Here is how to put the dress on You wrap the holes over the arm further away. Or you crisscross it I suppose. The silver dress is a lil more work. I cut out a long triangular shape. Widest part being at her chest. From there I folded the fabric in half long way. And cut niches into 3/4 of the way down. I then folded it wrong way in half long ways and tied the niches together Tied up niches/knotted The back looks like this which isn't that noticeable once the dress is on your Barbie. For the front I cut a small hole and a long stripe of the same fabric(old shirt scrapes I cut up for this whole thing) This next picture is to show how I made the loop. I pulled the long piece through as shown. Pulled tight To look like that in the front. If that doesn't show in the front then you just have to put the loop in the left side and pull to the strands in to the left. Hope that makes sense. For the back part you could just tie a knot or bow in the back where my finger is. Or you could do shoulder straps (easier to get dress on and off) to do the this I sewed it because I cut my straps to short. But for the "no sew" you can cut holes and put straps threw and knot it. Then Done!!! Last but not least. The skirt. Up this was easy since this Barbie had a painted in top. I cut the sleeve of a shirt leaving the original hem on. Where my fingers are I put two holes just enough to go through one layer of the hem. Now I then used a bobby pin (you could also use a safety pin. I didn't have one) And tie elastic to that and pub through one hole and make your way around and exit out the other hole. Slip Barbie into, now bunched up skirt, pull tight enough that it fits loose around waist (so when you go to take it off the elastic will stretch over Barbies hips and thighs) tie a double knot and Done! Bunch dress and tuck knot into hole to hide. Here I pull bunching put if you bunch it back up you don't even see the elastic!!! Great huh?! Well that's all!!! You can make the skirt longer or shorter or into a long maxi dress just pull up over her chest and cut enough length for the body. Also use a thinner sleeve, so to not have to much bunching. Tell me what you think! Do you have any no sew ideas? Any websites? Would love to see what you come up with. Enjoy and have a lovely day! Until next time!

Grab this gorgeous Barbie Halter Neck Dress Sewing Pattern for FREE! >>You can download this pattern with instructions here<<< Fits Barbie Basics – Model Muse dolls – (re…

Learn how to make jeans for your doll with this free PDF barbie jeans pattern. Step by step instruction. Create a new doll outfit by yourself.

We all got kids who love playing with dolls, especially dressing them up. Trouble is, getting new outfits gets pricey and sometimes, you just cant find the right style.

En mi segunda entrada sobre muñecas de papel para vestir, quiero traerte esta selección de muñecas de papel antiguas, con sus vestiditos y accesorios para imprimir gratis y recortar. Muñecas antiguas de papel para vestir gratis Estas fueron las primeras muñecas que aparecían en los kioscos de revistas. Eran