See how to sew a basket in 3 different sizes, for all your storage needs. These diy fabric baskets are so cute and super easy to sew!
Hi, Today I made this fab little fabric basket. It’s serially quick and easy (just my sort of thing) so I think I will be making a few more! I’m going to be making them for Christmas an…
We think you will love sewing these Reversible Fabric Baskets. The baskets are so fun to sew and the video sewing tutorial from Sotak Co is completely free.
This super simple fabric basket with handles can be used for anything. Free Simple Pattern and step-by-step Sewing Tutorial
Here is a very basic tutorial that a good friend of mine designed for a very sweet little fabric basket. Very quick and gratifying. I used oilcloth for the outside and a cotton for the inside but…
Learn how to make small round fabric baskets with our free sewing pattern. Cute DIY trinket baskets with Liberty of London Fabric.
Top US sewing blog, Flamingo Toes, features their Easy and Simple DIY Fabric Storage Basket tutorial. Click here now for all the info!!
Make a fabric box pattern with our free pdf patterns and our step-by-step tutorial. Easy beginners project to make fabric baskets in 3 sizes.
Tired of zipper bags you can’t find things in because they won’t open wide enough? This OPEN WIDE bag fixes that! Sewing tutorial
Make DIY Fabric Baskets I love fabric baskets for storing all of my little things. Anyone that follows this blog knows how much I love color. I
This is a Big Fabric Basket and the designer has made her tutorial and pattern free to everyone.
Easy DIY fabric rectangle basket with removable bottom made of crafting mesh. Sewing tutorial for a simple DIY fabric storage basket
Copy Right Anne Ibach 2021 (I’m really happy that a lot of people are making this bag! Since it’s free, when you post a photo of your bag on social media, please credit me, use the hash…
Hello, how are you today? Welcome to our blog About Crochet. We hope you are very well and looking forward to a new Free Crochet Pattern or Tutorial.
Sew Together Bag Tutorial.
Updated September 2011 We have remade these awesome, simple bags for fall! This time around,…
I have made tons of these types of bags over the years, including a teeny tiny mini one that you can wear on a lanyard, so I decided to do a tutorial on my construction method which encloses all th…
In this tutorial I’m going to show you how I added a zipper placket to this Frankenbag. A couple of months ago I promised that I’d make a tutorial for adding a placket to this bag. I…
Large Fabric Wild Flowers Tote Bag Free Sewing Pattern
Storage Pod tutorial from Fabric Editions
I put together a tutorial for the tote bag that I made for teacher’s gifts. It is really simple to make.
Use the best kam snaps tutorial and see how to add kam snaps to nearly everything - so easy!
DIY Recessed Zipper Tote Bag Today I made a Recessed Zipper Tote Bag with curved top shape. Zipper closure makes the bag even more functiona...
DIY Fabric Zipper Box Pouch Free Sewing Pattern + Video
DIY Phoebe Bag Free Sewing Pattern
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DIY Fabric Box Sewing Tutorial. This tutorial shows how to sew a fabric box that uses squares of any size and is advanced beginner friendly ...
There's a number of tutorials out there for fabric baskets, but I found often they had unnecessary steps or were more complicated than they needed to be. I came up with my own method for baskets, streamlining the process so you can make one in a half hour or so. Hopefully my way isn't too fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants for a tutorial! Please let me know if something isn't clear and I'll do my best to clarify. When you're done, you have a good-sized basket that is about 6.5" long, 5" wide and 8" high before folding down the cuff. Usually I'm working with fat quarters, so I cut two pieces - one for the lining, one for the outside - that are 12" by as long as I can make it using a FQ. Normally this is about 21". If you're cutting from yardage, you can go for an even 22". You'll also need a piece the same size of one-sided fusible fleece. I like this stuff because it's pliable, but still sturdy enough for a basket. Generally I avoid directional prints because then you need to piece it together so things aren't upside-down, and that adds time. Who's got extra of that?! Now here's where I start doing things differently, but trust me! Iron the fusible fleece onto the lining. Yup, I said lining. I find that way the inside is nice and neat, and the outside wraps snuggly around it. Fold each rectangle in half and sew down the sides to the folded bottom. Use a quarter-inch seam. I like to backstitch at the start to lock in the stitches. Don't worry about the bottom because we're gonna snip that off later. Draw a 2.5" square on all the bottom corners. Be sure to measure from inside the seam allowance on the side. Flatten the corner to make a point. To do this, kinda pinch the corners of the square you just drew so they're on the folds of the fabric. Do not trim. I find it's easier to sew along the line if there's more to hold on to. Again I backstitch at the start and stop of the seam, and over the middle seam to make sure it's extra secure. Now you can trim the points, leaving 1/4". Optional: put the triangles on a nearby cat or dog as a jaunty cap. I keep trying with my cats, but they don't seem to appreciate the hilarity of it. Iron open the seams on the side. Turn the outer piece inside out and put it inside the lining. Grab your handy Wonder Clips or pins and clip the pieces together, making sure to match your seams. Slide it onto your sewing machine and stitch around the top, leaving a gap of 2.5" to 3". I find it handy to use my quarter-inch foot to be accurate and fast. Pull your basket right-side out through the gap you left. Iron the seam flat carefully. I like to put clips on the open part so I know where it is when topstitching. Topstitch around the edge. I usually do two lines in a co-ordinating thread for a nice detail. Be careful while sewing at the turning gap to make sure it's tidy and secure. Then turn the basket right side out. I like to fold down the top because the cuff adds a nice detail and a little extra sturdiness. And voila! Your fabric basket is done! In a flash! Make it bigger: It's easy to make the basket bigger. You can use about the same length of fabric and just make it wider. Be sure to make the corners a bit larger when you add width. I hope you liked this tutorial and have fun making your own fabric baskets. They're so handy to have in the sewing room to hold fabric and projects, and they make great gifts or swap extras. If you make baskets using this tutorial, please share them on Instagram using the hashtag #basketinaflash.
This is the Best 1/2 Yard Tote Bag EVER sewing pattern. The designer, Gingercake, has made a fabulous pattern and given it to us all for free.
DIY Shoulder Purse Bag Today, I made a pretty shoulder purse bag with floral fabric. This bag can be used as a baguette bag as the length o...
Create a roomy quilted tote to carry all of your groceries and books with style. Learn to sew pre-quilted fabric with special attention paid to how to handle bulky seams and match patterns. Also pick up tips for making perfectly matching bias tape.
These fabric bins are the perfect accessory for a student desk, or a nearby shelf to keep all those little school supplies. in their proper place!
Come learn how to sew a zipper pouch. This simple step-by-step tutorial for a DIY Zipper Pouch will help you make one in no time.
You can sew a tote bag with flat bottom and lining and it is quicker and easier than you might think! Make a custom tote bag!
I know there are lots of zippered pouch tutorials out there, and they're great, but I haven't found one that explains how to make the ends of the zipper more finished. Once I figured out how to do this, I thought I'd share. This tutorial is more about the zipper ends than it is about the finished pouch. Though I am going to tell you how big I cut everything, you can easily make these pouches any size you want. I tried to take a lot of pictures, but if anything is unclear, please let me know! Supplies: (2) Exterior pieces, I cut mine 8.5" x 6.5" (2) Lining pieces, mine are 8.5" x 6.25" (1) 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric to cover the zipper ends (2) pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing OR fusible fleece the same size as your exterior pieces. The interfacing you use will determine the feel of your pouch. The mid-weight interfacing, I used Decor Bond by Pellon, gives the pouch a bit more stiffness while the fleece will make the pouch more soft and pliable. ***UPDATE Shape Flex (SF 101) is what I use most often now. It bends nicely with the fabric since it's woven. You can also use it in conjunction with Decor Bond or fusible fleece. (1) zipper--Mine is 7" The rule of thumb here is to have your exterior pouch length be 1.5" longer than your zipper. So in my case, the length is 8.5" so I used a 7" zipper. Trim the corners of the fusible interfacing to reduce bulk and fuse to the exterior of your pouch. Trim the ends of the zipper to where the little "stoppers" on the zipper are. Fold the 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric in half lengthwise and press. Open it back up and fold in one side to the crease you just made and press. Repeat for the other side. Fold again along the original center crease and press. Cut the skinny 4" strip in half to create two .5"x 2" pieces. Open up one piece and tuck one end of the zipper in. See what I'm doing? Sew about 1/8" away from the edge next to the zipper. You can try and use pins to hold the tab in place, but I found the piece to be so small that it's easier for me to hold it. Repeat for the other side. This side will be a bit trickier since you will have to unzip the zipper and hold the two free pieces together as they would be when the zipper is closed. Again, you can try to pin, but I get better results (i.e. less shifting) by just holding it. Trim the extra fabric away from the zipper tabs. You should end up with something like this. With your lining right side up, place your finished zipper on top and center it. This is easy to do on your cutting mat--use the ruler markings to make sure it's even on both sides. Place your interfaced exterior fabric right side down on top of the lining. See? Right sides together, sandwiching the zipper in between. There are other ways to attach the zipper to the fabric where you can actually see the zipper while sewing, but I like this method. If you want to do it another way, go for it! Pin in place. You can see in this picture, it looks as if the lining has shifted a bit, but it is just from the pining along the top. The top edge is straight with the exterior, interior, and zipper lined up. I'm not going to lie, this is the trickiest part. Put on your zipper foot, take a deep breath, and sew about 1/4" away from the top edge. You are essentially doing this Stevie Wonder style since you can't see the zipper, but you can feel it! The first 1/2" near the zipper pull is the hardest and you may have to tug on the end or push it through for a bit. Just go slow. Once you make it past the pull, it's really easy. I leave my pins in and sew over them. This, I have found, is critical to keep all three layers lined up. I have as yet to break a needle, but I have broken a few pins. I'd much rather risk a broken pin than bring out my seam ripper because my layers shifted. You should now have something like this. Use your iron to press the lining away from the zipper. Press the exterior fabric down too. To give the exterior a more finished look and to secure the lining from getting caught in the zipper, I top stitch the exterior about 1/8" away from edge near the zipper. I know I'm not using my zipper foot correctly here, but it worked so stop laughing! Truthfully, I'm never sure I'm using it correctly, I just do whatever works to get a zipper attached. Rules be damned! Now it's time to attach your other lining and exterior pieces. You do this the same way you did before only now you have some fabric attached to your zipper. No biggie! Repeat my previous instructions on pining the layers and sewing on the zipper. Remember to top stitch the exterior on the other side, we want your pouch to look pretty! It should look like this now. The next step is super important. Are you paying attention? Don't skip this part! If you've printed this out, highlight this part: OPEN UP THE STINKIN' ZIPPER! You will be cursing yourself and making best friends with your seam ripper if you forget that! We're going to pin the exterior and lining right sides together, but first, we need to sort of fold/smush the zipper toward the exterior. See how I'm pinching it? Pinch it into place where everything is lining up--you can see how the top edges of the exterior fabric would line up if I squeezed them together, right? Pin that little guy in place! Continue pinning around all the edges. UPDATE: You *can* do this step and have the zipper pushed toward the interior, I guess when I made this one I just found this way worked for me to keep things lined up. Since making this tutorial, I find myself always pushing the zipper teeth toward the lining instead. Maybe this pouch was a freak of nature, who knows! Feel free to experiment to find what works best for you! Here's what it looks like all pinned together. Starting in the middle of the lining, about 2" away from the corner, using a 5/8" seam allowance, sew a few stitches and back stitch. We are going to leave an opening in the lining so you need to secure the stitches so your pouch won't come apart when you turn it. I leave the pins in for this step too! When you sew past the zipper/tab area, you may have to pull or push a bit since there are so many layers, just go slow. When you reach the exterior fabric, I sew slightly less than 5/8", more like 1/2", so that the lining will be a tiny bit smaller than the exterior and fit better into the pouch when I turn it. You don't have to do this. You can sew with the same seam allowance around the entire pouch. **update--so you understand, sew very very close to the tab, but not through it. When you get back to the lining side, leave a 3" opening or so for you to turn your pouch. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of either side of the opeing! Trust me, I know this from experience. If you fail to backstitch this bad boy can come part on you--the turning process can be rough on stitches! Hi there! You will soon be pulling the entire pouch through that tiny hole! It's a bit like child birth. :) But first! Clip your corners! Careful, don't clip your stitches! Now push! he he! Push, pull, finangle, shimmey the exterior fabric through the open zipper and then through the hole in the lining. Keep going. It's a messy job. Whew! Now use something pointy, but not sharp, to push out the corners of the exterior fabric. Also use the tool to push out/up the finished ends of the zipper. Wrinkly, but lookin' good! Now iron the lining down a bit. Sew the lining hole shut. My raw edges naturally turned under once I turned it, but if yours don't, just fold them in and press then sew the opening shut. You can hand sew this closed if you care about seeing the stitching, but I don't. It's at the bottom of the pouch, a pouch that is meant to be used, so surely the stuff you put in it will hide the stitching, right? My thoughts exactly! Yay! Tuck the lining inside and...... you're done! See how pretty the ends are? Now, what to put inside?
This is a tote bag in which the inside of the bag is divided by a zip pocket. The outer and lining of the bag hold the zipper pocket together, giving the bag
This bag is quick and easy to make with pockets that can be customized to size. Dress it up in your favorite fashion fabric, with a lining in fun contrasting color.
This is the Best 1/2 Yard Tote Bag EVER sewing pattern. The designer, Gingercake, has made a fabulous pattern and given it to us all for free.
