The Modern Fans quilt pattern is incredibly versatile. By rearranging the unique quilt blocks you can make lots of different layouts and designs.
Classic Cross & Crown Blocks are a piecer's delight in this fat quarter baby quilt pattern. The Cross & Crown lap quilt shown below is patterned in the March/April 2015 issue of McCall's Quilting.
How to sew curves in a quilt – a video and photo tutorial. Beginner friendly instructions on how to sew simple curves an a sewing machine.
Learn how to make mini quilts using scraps from your Adventureland quilt! This step-by-step tutorial includes both throw and baby sizes.
Learn how to make a wholecloth quilt with this step-by-step photo tutorial that includes tips for Kantha-style stitching!
Okay everyone! This long time anticipated crochet quilt tutorial is finally available! (happy jig!) My friend Tiffany of Fanny Lu Designs took the time to put together the most thorough and detaile…
You can make fusion like this easy, because the High Tea Fusion Quilt Free Crochet Pattern and Video Tutorial can help you understand everything.
free triangle quilt tutorial for baby and home. This modern ombre triangle quilt tutorial is the perfect baby shower gift!
Today I'm excited to share a Mitered & Flanged Machine Binding Tutorial. *** It's fun, saves time and looks awesome!! *** Don't be overwhelmed by the number of steps -- after you do it once or twice it will become old hat... I know you'll love it. *** It works nicely for samples, baby blankets, and quilts that will be washed and worn!! (or if you're in a plain old hurry ;) It's the whopper of machine binding tutorials because I decided to include steps for a Mitered Finish as inspired by a YouTube video by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly at The Fat Quarter Shop. ** I followed Lisa's steps to prepare the mitered finish -- AND included a link to their (most helpful) video in this tutorial. After watching the video be sure to leave a comment or give it a "thumbs up" -- it's an awesome learning tool! ** Note, the YouTube video does not include instructions for the Flange OR the Machine Finish - it explains nicely though, how to prepare mitered corners and a mitered finish -- it's a great tool and video and helped me tremendously with the mitered finish. Thanks so much ladies !! OK - Let's get started: We're going to make this sweet little flanged binding by machine with mitered corners, a mitered finish and with beautiful top-stitching to show off your pretty Aurifil threads! Begin by choosing a primary and an accent (flange) fabric. * Add in a complementary 50Wt thread for piecing and a 12Wt thread for top stitching. I chose from my #AuriStash -- #Aurifil thread is always my first choice {love}. Determine Length of Binding Needed: Calculate the total length of binding needed by adding the length of each of the 4 sides and adding an extra 10" to the number. * The sampler was 18" square. 18 + 18 + 18 + 18 + 10. = 82 inches. I assumed I could squeeze 41 usable inches per WOF strip, so I cut 2 strips of each the primary and the accent fabric. Cut the Primary and Accent fabric strips: Cut the primary fabric 1&7/16" wide. I did not have 16 of an inch marks on my ruler, so I split the width between 3/8 and 1/2 to achieve 7/16th of an inch. Now cut the accent fabric 1&3/4" wide (by the number of strips you need). Showing: Strips after cutting the correct number of Primary and Accent NOTE: When using solid colors, I sometimes place a pin in the right side of the fabric so I can tell the right side from the wrong side of the fabric. Piece Binding Strips to Achieve Necessary Length: Now you want to prepare the total length of binding. The sample required 82" so I pieced two WOF strips together at an angle (mitered seams). Be sure that your diagonal line is marked correctly before sewing and cutting. After testing the positioning of the fabric and diagonal line, stitch along the marked line with a straight stitch. (Excuse my wonky straight line - it was Free Motion Stitched ;). After stitching, remove the pins and check to ensure you have a continuous length before trimming. Now fold right sides together and trim the seam allowance to 1/4", trimming the tabs too and pressing open to reduce bulk. Repeat the above steps for the primary fabric. Now you've prepared the correct (total) length of each the primary and accent fabrics. Sew Primary and Accent Fabrics Together Lengthwise & Press: Next you'll layer the primary and accent strips right sides together, aligning one raw edge. Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance Showing the sewn raw edge Position binding on an ironing surface with the Primary fabric on top. Press flat to set the seam Next open the fabric and press the seam toward the Primary fabric. Showing after binding is pressed open toward the Primary fabric Showing back after pressing toward the Primary Fabric Next you'll fold the wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and gently press the length of binding. I press gently so the fold IS NOT Crisp or Flattened. *** Attach prepared binding to Quilt Back: This section of the tutorial was inspired by a YouTube tutorial prepared by Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) with Kimberly of the Fat Quarter Shop. You can view that YouTube tutorial here: "How to Add a Double Fold Binding to Quilts" The section applicable to this tutorial starts around the 2:00 minute mark and continues to the 3:40 minute mark. *** Keep in mind Lisa is attaching to the front of her quilt and finishing by hand (on back) -- we will attach to the back of the quilt and finish with machine on the front. *** Continuing... attach binding quilt back: Working on the BACK of the quilt, position the binding right side down with the Primary fabric to the right (aligning raw edge of Primary fabric with raw edge of quilt back). Next fold the top right corner to the left, wrong sides together, to make a 45 degree angle and press. Now fold the binding wrong sides together so both of the binding raw edges are aligned with the raw edges of the quilt back. *** Position the binding about 1/2 way down the side of the quilt. *** You'll need space above the binding to complete the mitered finish. *** You will begin stitching the binding about 6" from the point shown below. Leave at least 5" of the binding un-stitched (pin but don't stitch) and begin stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. *** Stop a 1/4" from the quilt corner (I marked my 1/4" with a pin - see below). *** When you stop at the 1/4" mark, be sure your needle is in the down position. Showing, stop stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner. Now lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt layers so you can stitch off the edge of the quilt at a 45 degree angle. Showing: After stitching up to corner and with a 45 degree angle to the corner of the quilt Next, trim threads and rotate the quilt counter-clockwise and prepare for the mitered fold. The fold (below) is required to make a mitered corner. *** After trimming threads and rotating the quilt so the stitched binding is running perpendicular to the foot, fold the binding strip straight up. *** When you do this you'll see a 45 degree angle from the corner of the quilt to the folded corner of the binding. Keeping the top fold steady, lay the binding down over itself, so the 45 degree angle is preserved under the top layer and the straight fold is along the top edge of the quilt. Begin stitching a 1/4" seam allowance at the top fold. Stitch to within 1/4" of the next quilt corner and repeat the process. Repeat the folding and stitching process at the next corner. After you've mitered all 4 corners you'll be headed down the last side of the quilt (The side where you started the binding). *** Stop stitching at least 6" (longer if you can) from the Beginning Tail of the quilt. *** You'll now have a beginning tail that is un-stitched and an end tail that is un-stitched. Remove quilt from the machine bed and trim threads. *** Lift the beginning tail up and fold it out of the way. *** Smooth the "End tail" down along the raw edge. Be sure there are no puckers or folds and that it rests flat against the quilt. Now unfold the "Beginning Tail" and position it over top of the "End Tail" -- making sure that both tails are smooth and are without puckers and are flat against the quilt back. Now you'll place a pin in the "End Tail" just a couple of threads away from the Point of the "Beginning Tail". *** Mark this position with a Pin through the top layer of fabric only (only through the accent fabric on the End Tail, do not pin the primary). Another image after putting a pin through the top layer only of the "End Tail" right at the point (pointed fold) of the "Beginning Tail". Now, I use my left hand to unfold the End Tail. Keep the right side of the fabric facing up The Pin should remain on your right and the primary fabric will unfold to the left. Next you'll unfold the Beginning Tail so that the right side is facing DOWN and wrong side is facing you. 2nd image of the Beginning Tail unfolded with wrong side of fabric facing up. The tricky part is positioning the Beginning Tail so it is perpendicular to the End Tail *** Align the Beginning Tail "Point" at the End Tail "Pin" and secure with pins (Thanks Lisa!) Here is where the crease from the fold comes into play -- you're going to stitch on the fold making the finished mitered seam. (Be sure NOT to stitch through the quilt -- only stitch the binding) After Stitching on the Fold Before cutting excess fabric, fold the binding closed again (wrong sides together) and check to ensure that the binding is right sized and not twisted. *** This is a very important step -- do NOT Skip ;) *** Once you've double checked the length and positioning (no twists) of the binding you can trim the mitered finish to a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger Press or Iron Press the seam open Lay the binding along the raw edge and finish sewing it to the back of the quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance being sure to pickup a few stitches into where you stopped and started. You're almost to the FUN PART!!! Roll the Binding from Back to Front of Quilt & Prepare to Machine Stitch: Yippee!! Once you've finished securing the mitered finish on the back of the quilt, you get to roll the binding around to the front of the quilt and admire the beautiful flange... *** I just LOVE the look of the flange added to this binding... Prepare the front of the quilt for machine stitching Prepare each corner by tucking the bottom of the binding fabric into the corner and folding the top of the binding to make a 45 degree angle (or mitered corner). *** Secure with Wonder Clips (love those little clips). After the tuck and fold you should see a perfectly mitered corner -- ready for stitching Secure that corner with another Wonder Clip Next... Top stitch the Flange Binding Use a 90/14 top stitch needle in your machine Choose thread colors that complement your fabric. *** Both the Top and Bobbin thread will be completely visible when you're done stitching. *** Use Aurifil 50Wt or 40Wt thread in your Bobbin Use Aurifil 12Wt thread on Top (my favorite) Set a straight stitch length to 3.0 or higher (a nice "top stitch" length). You may have to adjust your top tension down a bit (try it on a test swatch first). *** Start stitching near a corner, taking smaller stitches to secure the start. *** Note: No need to stitch in the ditch. Show off that awesome Aurifil 12Wt thread by stitching well on the flange You may have to fuss when you get into a corner so there is a stitch just before the miter and one just after you turn the quilt top Slowly stitch all the way around the quilt top to secure the binding and finish with smaller stitches to secure your threads. Doesn't it look just beautiful ? Here is an image of the front (left) and the back (right)... Love, love, love! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. Thanks again to Lisa Bongean (Primitive Gatherings) and Kimberly from the Fat Quarter Shop for sharing the steps for the mitered finish. See links above. *** This binding and the awesome Auriful thread adds great dimension to a quilt top and is admired by all who see it! *** I especially love it because I can do the work by machine and save a little time preparing samples. It's also great if your gifting the quilt to a little person, where a hand-sewn binding might not hold up under wear and tear and tugs... * Thanks for stopping by today -- leave me a comment and let me know what you think Also -- I would love if you share this tutorial on social media AND if you send me pictures of any work you create with it. *** Be sure to follow me on social media (below) for fun and inspiring posts!. See My Tutorials (tab on top of blog) for more detailed and free tutorials and patterns. Is your Shop, Group or Guild preparing for upcoming Programs? I'm offering In-Person and ZOOM based programs. Click HERE to learn more about my featured programs. You can write me anytime: [email protected] or [email protected] Upcoming Retreats!! Did you know? I've teamed up with Wendy Sheppard to share the CraZy Quilting Girls Free Motion Quilting Retreats. Join us June 2023 for the Piecing and Quilting Retreat Click here for more information on the 2023 Piecing and Quilting Retreat. *** Follow Me *** Did you know you can visit me on Facebook at Redbird Quilt Co and/or Follow Redbird Quilt Co on Instagram I post all sorts of fun things there!! ** If you love to Free Motion Quilt consider joining my Facebook Community Group Free Motion Quilting Frenzy group * Plus I share quilting related videos on my YouTube Channel * I'm also on Pinterest and I share other tutorials and patterns on My Tutorials on my blog Thanks for stopping by today... ~ Blessings ~ Karen Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. If you purchase anything through these links I may be compensated for the purchase. I promise to only recommend those products I know and love -- especially those with fantastic prices!
In this video sewing tutorial, I will show you how to sew mitered corners. If you are looking for easy quilt binding corners check out my ideas on how to sew a mitered corner binding and mitered quilt borders.
Top US quilting blog, Diary of a Quilter, shares their No-Waste method fo make Flying Geese Block and 8 point Sawtooth Star Quilt Block. Click here now!
Join in on the fun and learn to sew curves with this Modern Fans quilt pattern Sew-Along! This sew-along will include lots of videos and tutorials to help.
Free Wonky Corners Quilt Block Tutorial uses low volume fabric and batik contrasting scraps for a fabulous baby quilt any new mom will love!
Dashing Stars Quilt Jenny Doan shows how to make the Big Star Quilt - a project much easier than it looks. Full Post: Dashing Stars Quilt Tutorial
After staring at fabrics for too long trying to decide what pattern to make my baby a quilt with…I went with classic hourglass blocks. There are probably loads of good tutorials for these blocks already, but since these are one of my favorites I wrote one up for this quilt: Baby Hourglass Quilt: Quilt...Read More
Strip Quilt tutorial - Four Corners fabric from Riley Blake Designs gives a southwest, modern design in black and white, teal, and gold.
Here is how to make a quilt that folds into a quilt. This simple process makes your quilt into a pillow by day and a blanket at night.
Use These Tutorials to Craft Your Own Unique Quilt! We instantly fell in love with this beautiful quilt made of fabric and crochet. Square blocks of pieced and quilted fabric are linked with crochet, and then decorated with crocheted flowers at each intersection. Finally, a finishing edge is crocheted around the outside. The completed quilt …
I just love the Hunter Star Pattern!!! It is so gorgeous! Fat Quarter Shop has simplified the pattern and is offering the block pattern for FREE! Fat Quarter Shop used Ombre Confetti Metallic by V & Co to make this amazing Hunter Star quilt....plus they have a kit available here. I chose to use the lovely Flora and Fawn fabric by Amanda Herring with Riley Blake Designs. I just love the sweet little deer and florals! I made four blocks to create my Hunter Star Pillow/Mini Quilt! Ready to make your own Hunter's Star Project! Supplies: 1. Flora and Fawn Fabric- Amanda Herring with Riley Blake Designs. 1 FQ or 1/2 yard of each gray print will work for 4 blocks to make a pillow or mini quilt. Fat Quarter Shop has the Fat Quarter Bundle on sale this week (here). Sale price valid until 2/18/18 and is less than $2 per FQ...yay! 2. Swiss Dots- hot pink/white by Riley Blake Designs - 3/4 yard for 4 blocks 3. Backing- 3/4 yard 3. Hunter's Star Quilt Block Pattern: FREE or complete pattern with multiple size options HERE. Start Sewing: 1. Sew 4 Hunter's Star Quilt Blocks....I just had to fussy cut those adorable deer 2. Assemble 4 blocks as shown 3. For quilting- I chose to stipple/meander...it's my "go to" and I love it! 4. Pillow Backing: I used the left over fabric squares to make a pieced backing and I LOVE it!!!! It makes me sooooo happy! Helpful tip: Make sure you trim your final blocks as recommended in pattern. I forgot to do this...oops! Thank you Fat Quarter Shop for having me be part of the Hunter's Star Quilt Along! I hope you decide to sew a few of these Hunter's Star blocks...they are fabulous! Follow me on Instagram @mellierc and here on my Blog for more sewing, quilting, and fabric fun! Melanie #fqsquiltalong #hunterstarquilt #huntersstarquilt #classicandvintage #floraandfawnfabric #rileyblakedesigns #fabricismyfun This post contains affiliate links to Fat Quarter Shop. Thank you.
Back in March I started a Clamshell quilt. See here and here. I Googled one day to see what was out there about the Clamshell - NOT MUCH.....but, I did come across Jossie's blog and discovered she was forming a CLAMSHELL CLUB.....YES, I joined!!! The last day of each month we post our progress. Today is the first post and I decided to give the tutorial everyone asked about in March when I first posted about it........SO......here goes! The above photo shows to pick your pattern. My Clamshell pattern measures 5 inches across it's very widest and is 6 inches long. If you clicked on the 2 here's above, you will find the history on where and when I got my pattern from. I made 2 patterns pieces just alike.....trimming the top seam allowance off of one. I use self laminating pages to help stabilize my pattern pieces. Using one of your patterns with all the seam allowances, trace onto your fabric, making sure you line up the grain of your fabric with the arrows on your pattern....very important! I use what they call a mechanical pencil...the kind you add your own lead to...for tracing my patterns. These pencils make very sharp thin lines. I also use a quilters Sandpaper Board to lay my fabric down for tracing. These are soooo great, your fabric stays put and doesn't pull or bunch up while you are trying to trace. Cut out using a small rotary cutter. The blade on this cutter of mine measures 1'' across. Now.....take your pattern that is minus the top seam allowance and line up the bottom edges. I simply used my left hand to hold down......... then I used my right hand index finger/fingernail to fold down the top edges to form a nice crease all along the rounded tops edge. You could also use a hard object like this small ruler to form you crease, but I found my fingers worked better and it was a lot faster. I usually started at the top/middle and worked my way all the way down. See the nice crease I made all along the top! You could then use a washable glue to tack it down......be careful......too much glue will make your fabric sooooo hard and stiff you won't be able to get a needle through it. There are some nice glue pens out there, but I am just using what I have on hand. Or your could hand baste it down like I've shown. I take one Clamshell and lightly fold in half at the top and bottom and line it up vertically using my creases as a guide to help line it up using the graph lines on my June Taylor mini ironing pad.....remember, at this point I am working from the backside. Take 2 other Clamshells and place as I've shown. Using the graphed lines and 'eye-balling' the 2 pieces, you can line them up fairly straight. I am not overly concerned with having pristine straight rows......after all, who is going to 'whoop' out a straight edge to see if you are all lined up. I am still 'mulling' over some other ideas to improve this step. I'll let you know if I work out something better. I then use small tiny sequin pins to attach my 3 pieces. I guess you could use glue here too....I've not tried! UPDATE: I ended up using dots of glue to piece the clam shells together instead of using the pinning method. You must be careful not to use too much glue or get the glue too close to the edges for it will make the fabric hard and you will not be able to get a needle into it. I liked the glue method. It made the pieces stay together a lot better and there was no slipping around with your placement. If you do get too much glue and it turns hard, I filled my washing machine with cold water and put my top in and just let it have a good soak to remove the glue. NO washing, just soak and then let your machine drain and spin at the end of the wash cycle. I then took it outside and laid it flat out on the grass in the sun and let it dry naturally. When it was dry I lightly pressed it to make it smooth so I could sandwich it with my batting and the back. Here is the side you will be hand stitching the pieces together. I simply try to match my applique threads with the printed Clamshell fabric and use a basic applique stitch. I start at the right hand side there and stitch down to the bottom middle and then back up again to the left hand side stitching the 2 muslin pieces to my vintage printed piece. Here is a view of how your back side will look after you've stitched them together. I usually work in groups of 3's and 5 Clamshells. I find it is more 'portable' this way and can be good handwork when I travel. My design wall here shows you the different size groups I work with. When I have a more extended period of time to work on them I sew all the groups together to start forming my rows. So far, this has proved to be a very fast and easy system for me. I hope this is clear and simple enough to follow. Please feel free to email with any questions you might have. OK.....I'm off to work on 'a few' before the day is over. Run over to Jossie's and check her sidebar and click on some of the gals who are also creating this little Clamshell project. HAPPY CLAMMING YA'LL!!!!
Chain piecing can save you lots of time when quilting. See the full step by step tutorial on how to chain piece your next quilt project.
Knit and Purl Stitch Patterns with Free Patterns and Video Tutorials by Studio Knit.
Top US quilting blog, Diary of a Quilter, shares their No-Waste method fo make Flying Geese Block and 8 point Sawtooth Star Quilt Block. Click here now!
Make a sophisticated, neutral quilt using the Stars Hollow quilt pattern. This classic design plays on negative space to create traditional sawtooth stars.
This week we’ll assemble the blocks into a quilt top. Follow the instructions on page 23 of Turnabout Patchwork. Simple quilts with a twist to assemble the quilt top. Assembling the quilt top…
Making mitered corners doesnt' hjave to be hard.Start with a small application to gain confidence in making excellent mitered corners every time!
How to quickly stitch up a randomised panel of patchwork squares.
Updated 4-25-12 with new and improved pictures! In honor of Sew, Mama, Sew’s quilting month I am finally getting around to posting this pictorial tutorial (say that 10 times fast!) on how to …
Gosh – first of all, Happy New Year! I hope this year is a happy and creative one for you all. I’ve been really slack at blogging last year, but I am keeping up regularly on Instag…
Whether you’re making this Lacy Diamonds Baby Blanket Free Knitting Pattern for a boy or a girl, you can easily adjust the colors to create the ideal blanket for your little one.
You can make a photo block quilt to celebrate a birthday, anniversary, wedding, or other memorable occasion with this Photo Memory Quilt Tutorial.
I don't know if you have a "quilting bucket list", but I sure do! And a cathedral window quilt was at the top of that list! There's something so elegant and perplexing about how they're constructed and I always love a good challenge of figuring things out and stretching my skills and this quilt did just that! I first d
Classic Quilt Blocks have been sewn for centuries, are easy to recognise and are every quilters favorite. Let's celebrate these gorgeous blocks and add them to our quilting projects! Welcome to my first tutorial for the gorgeous Spool block. This week we'll be sewing a basic block using the traditional nine patch arrangement. There are quicker ways to sew this block, but sharing this method will help if you want to adapt the block or make a scrappier block. I've also included a Cutting Chart at the end of the tutorial, so you can sew the Spool block in six different sizes - this will be helpful for future projects. I'm also going to give you some ideas for adapting this block in case you're looking for some inspiration. One quick thing to mention about this tutorial is my method for the HST's. I always cut my pieces larger than required and then trim the units after they are sewn. This helps with inconsistencies and as long as you trim carefully, you'll get perfect HST's every time. The following tutorial will yield a 6" (finished) block and seam allowances have been added and we're sewing with a 1/4" seam. Hopefully you had some time last week to plan some blocks using my free colouring page, so grab your fabrics and let's go sew! From the background fabric cut: 2 x 3" squares cut diagonally to yield 4 triangles (A) 2 x 2 1/2" squares (B) From the print fabric cut: 2 x 3" squares cut diagonally to yield 4 triangles (C) 3 x 2 1/2" squares (D) Sew a background (A) triangle to each of the four print (C) triangles, along the long sides and pressing seams towards the print fabrics. Carefully trim each HST unit to 2 1/2" square, ensuring you don't cut off any points or seam allowances. Arrange the HST's, the remaining background (B) squares and the remaining print (D) squares into three rows of three as shown in the photo above. Ensure correct orientation of the HST units prior to sewing. Sew the squares together into the three rows, pressing seams in alternate directions for nesting. Carefully matching all seams, sew the three rows together and press the long seams open to yield one Spool block which should measure 6 1/2" square. Tada! One gorgeous Spool block all ready for your next project! I hope you had fun sewing this little cutie. It's such a cute block and you can play around with lots of different colour combinations. I've put together a Cutting Chart for six different sizes so you can choose the right size for you. All the blocks go together in exactly the same way, just the cutting requirements are different. Simply click on the link to download the chart or right click on the photo below and save it to your computer: Regardless of the size, the blocks are sewn together in the same way, but the cutting requirements are different for each size. I've also included the trimming size of the HST units to make it easy for you, so have fun! Speaking of fun, how about a little visual inspiration for adapting this block? I thought I'd inspire you by including some cute pieced units in the Spool centres: There are so many ways to add your own personal stamp on the spool block and I hope these examples giving you some motivation. You can use some of the other Classic Quilt Blocks we've already looked at, or design something of your own - it's fun to play! Next week I have another step by step tutorial for you, and this Spool block is a little bit fancy: I love this version and next Friday I'll show you how to sew an 8" block of your own. I've provided a free colouring sheet so you can plan some blocks to sew along with me, so simply click on the link to download and print: Grab some colouring pencils, crayons and markers and get creative! And that's it for this week. I hope your enjoying my Spool Classic Quilt Blocks series so far. There's lots more to come as we celebrate this gorgeous block, and it's going to be fun! Happy sewing :)
Discover crochet tips and find inspiration on Your Crochet's free patterns blog. Read our post, 'Sophie’s Universe Afghan Free Pattern and Tutorial'.
Hi there! Welcome to Mini Quilt Mania! We are kicking off our month long series today! We have a full schedule of mini quilt tutorials from...
Discover crochet tips and find inspiration on Your Crochet's free patterns blog. Read our post, 'High Tea Fusion Crochet Quilt and Border Free Pattern'.
Does batting have a right and wrong side? The answer is yes! Check out this photo guide to help you find the right batting for your next quilt.
Learn how to baste a quilt 3 different ways including: how to pin baste, how to baste a quilt with boards, and how to spray baste.
A fusion quilt is a fun alternative to making a patchwork quilt. This tutorial is part 1 of 2 and shows how to make the squares for the quilt.
Learn to make quick and easy fabric bookmarks using fabrics scraps. This tutorial walks all level of quilters through the steps to make a fabric bookmark.
Classic Quilt Blocks have been sewn for centuries, are easy to recognise and are every quilters favorite. Let's celebrate these gorgeous blocks and add them to our quilting projects! Welcome to Week Three of my Flying Geese Classic Quilt Blocks series. I hope you enjoyed sewing last week's Dutchman's Puzzle block - it's such a fun and gorgeous way to showcase some simple Flying Geese! This week I want to show you some other examples of blocks with a flock of geese and share some of my favorite Flying Geese quilt patterns. Please note: the diagrams in this post are for inspiration purpose only, there are no patterns! Are you ready to be inspired? Let's go: Simple settings such as these two examples make such a pretty block. These formations are a great way to use Flying Geese and they are effortless and beautiful. Sew four in a vertical row and add sashings or sew two rows of four in a horizontal formation and alternate the orientation. Multiple rows add even more visual interest to a block, and you can inject lots of colour making them perfect for scrappy quilts. Alternating the orientations of the rows will create a different look like these two examples: Aren't these blocks fun? So simple but effective! Make the Flying Geese even smaller by adding more rows for a busy flock of geese! You can also set Flying Geese on the diagonal: So pretty and perfect to use as corner blocks for borders or alternate their orientation and create patterns in a full sized quilt. These are just a few examples or how to use Flying Geese in blocks. I hope they have you plotting and planning blocks of your own. To end this week's post, I wanted to share my top four favorite Flying Geese quilt patterns with you. These quilts are stunning and the best part - they are all free patterns/tutorials. Yay! {photo from Robert Kaufman} The Remixed Geese Quilt from Robert Kaufman is stunning! I love its scrappiness, the alternating directions of the geese and those colours are amazing. A simply beautiful quilt! You can download the free pattern HERE. {photo from V and Co.} The Dutch Ombre Baby Quilt is one of my absolute favorites! V and Co. have a comprehensive tutorial for this quilt and it's so clever and such a beautiful quilt! You can find the free tutorial HERE. {photo from Piece and Quilt} Another one of my favorites is Northbound from Piece and Quilt. I love the scrappiness of this quilt with all the prints and the low volume fabrics! The formation of the flying geese is very clever as well. You can find the free tutorial HERE. {photo from AGF Studio} And last but not least is the Flying Colours quilt from AGF Studio. This one is gorgeous and a very clever layout that reminds you of swirling flocks of geese overhead. Love it! You can download the free pattern HERE. And that's it for this week. Are you itching to sew your own Flying Geese quilt yet? I hope so! Next week is the final week of this months series and I'm sharing something fun! I have a modern mini quilt pattern for you, featuring some gorgeous Flying Geese - it's bright, it's colourful and it's fun! I can't wait to share it with you! Happy quilting :)
Ultimate quilt binding tutorial with step by step instructions to show you how to make quilt binding and how to attach the first round of binding. Includes 10 tips for success and a lits of tools you'll need to make your own quilt binding.
Links to all posts for the Calico Rose Quiltalong will be here, at least until the quiltalong is finished. Then it will become a link to the final tutorial and a gallery of finished quilts. March …
Learn how to make a cheater quilt that is fast, easy, and you can use any striped or plaid fabric. A cheater quilt is perfect for gifts!
Vast Quilt - Noodlehead, a large half-square triangle quilt. Pattern from Patchwork Essentials: The Half-Square Triangle by Jeni Baker.
Nani Iro’s Quilted Double Gauze has a lot going for it: the prints are stunning,…
This is the last installment of this series of how to tie quilting knots in quilts. Quilting bee style! This one is called a Crow's Feet Stitch.
Photos above © Kristen Clay This crochet pattern is available as a free download... Download Pattern: Popcorn Throw
Updated 4-25-12 with new and improved pictures! In honor of Sew, Mama, Sew’s quilting month I am finally getting around to posting this pictorial tutorial (say that 10 times fast!) on how to …
