Here's a cool dirty reverb effect by Death by Audio. It uses a Belton brick like many other designs, and offers clean reverb with the gain control turned all the way down. But when you increase the gain, fuzz is infused to the signal. You can mount the Belton brick to the board from the solder-side (best to do this once the rest of the board has been populated). It'll probably be too tall with the brick to fit in a 1590B, but a 125B should work just fine.

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PT2399 is a chip built in echo effect circuit, built some parts, basic guitar effects. DIY experimenters also a good choice.

The Faux Spring Reverb, like many pedal reverbs is based around a Belton reverb module. Originally it used the BTDR-1 (which is massive), but in this layout I've adapted it for the newer and smaller BTDR-2H. I've also simplified the power section a little, and used a TL071 for the second IC. In the original a TL072 was used, but only used half of it. Here's what Brian has to say about his design: The great thing about the Faux Spring Reverb is that it retains the Analog base tone, doesn’t send your signal through digital/analog converters and back again (wrecking your tone completely) allowing you to be as springy as you like without your sound becoming lifeless, dull and… well, bad. With the tone control, you can control your sound completely and have your reverb be as bright as day, or dark as night… As lively and bright as a small hall, or as deep as the biggest cathedrals. Edit: I realized this afternoon that the Depth pot would hit the Belton brick, so I've changed it to a 9mm pot and it will clear the brick. The whole thing will be really snug, but it should be doable.

Got several requests for this one. Basically, it's small preamp to plug into a mobile device for use with apps like iRig. Pretty simple circuit. Shouldn't be hard to fit in a 1590a or even smaller since you don't need to include a footswitch.

Found this one over on the Tagboard forum and thought it would be a good addition here. It's a simple noise gate with minimal parts count th...

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I've seen a few designs out there that starve a tube filament to maintain a low voltage and still provide nice results. The Matsumin Valvecaster is one of them. For those afraid to work with tubes due to high voltage (cue Electric Six, "Danger! High Voltage!"), this keeps the power at safer levels. It also allows a 9v battery to be used (or 12V) but will consume them fairly quickly... so an AC adapter is recommended. The design is nice and simple, and for beginning builders it's not too hard to follow the circuit visually. There are a couple of variations floating around, so if you're looking at multiple schematics or diagrams, be aware that they aren't all the same. Other builders have created their own unique pedals based on this design, but the values of the parts are different, so again, be aware ;) Matsumin Valvecaster schematic from hgamps My favorite diagram/illustration was from David Smith. The input and output jacks are included as well as the 3PDT switch to bypass the circuit. David's illustration is intended for a turret board, but if you prefer point to point it's still easy to follow. Be sure to note the orientation of the 3PDT switch, it won't work if it's oriented differently (i.e. twisted 90 degrees). David Smith's diagram offers an easy-to-follow layout Here's another diagram from Stompboxed, it's a little harder to follow but still helpful. Another diagram for reference. You'll probably want to use one of the larger Hammond 1590BB (or Hammond-style) chassis as I don't think trying to shoehorn this into a 1590B would be terribly easy. The 1590BB is available from the usual suspects, Mouser, Digikey, etc. in a variety of powdercoated colors. You can also go to Mammoth Electronics and get some much cooler paintjobs for a few more bucks, or go crazy with some waterslide decals... the sky is the limit. For this project I went with a purple Hammond 1590BB ... you can almost taste the grape looking at it. These are cast aluminum, so you need to treat them a little more gently than something that's extruded (e.g. try to do more drilling on the drill press rather than punching holes). Punching out the holes with a tool can sometimes take away more metal than you anticipated. I used larger Alpha pots in this build as I had them in the work-bin. CTS, Bourns and PEC also make good pots, and if you want to check out surplus, Clarostat and Allen Bradley are also great choices. The ceramic 9 pin tube socket is set against the chassis with a rubber "o" ring which can help quash microphonics. It's overkill for this build, but I had it in the bin. Beltons are cheaper and work great as well. There is a corresponding PCB to be used with CNC tube socket as the solder tabs are quite small to solder accurately. These can be found on Ebay by searching for "9 pin PCB", and Partsconnexion also carries them. The Russian PIO caps are a little on the large side and have metal shells, so they need to be carefully placed so they don't short any leads. They can also be covered with heatshrink. PTFE (teflon) tubing is placed on bare leads to ensure they don't short either. Also space needs to be given to the open-frame Switchcraft 11 1/4" jacks so they don't bump into any parts or wires when being inserted. Using different colored wire during the wiring process can help you visually follow the circuit if it doesn't work upon plugging in for the first time. Having a rat's nest of the same colored wire makes things much more difficult. Valvecaster wired up point to point On top of the chassis a tube shield will be installed to protect the tube from an errant foot. You can find these in a number of anodized colors from Angela.com. I thought the gold looked nice contrasting against the purple. Top of the Valvecaster with Tube Shield off... ...and tube shield on Hope you enjoyed the build process of the Matsumin Valvecaster Effects Pedal. You can see it's pretty easy to build a great effects pedal without a PCB and just a few parts. Remember to use good quality parts like Switchcraft 1/4" jacks, Alpha or CTS potentiometers, etc. to ensure your new pedal lasts a good long while. Please remember that building/modifying circuits can be dangerous to you and/or your surroundings and should only be performed by a certified technician. The owner of this blog and all associated parties can not / will not be held responsible if you attempt a build or modification posted above and cause physical harm to yourself or your surroundings. Many electronics contain high voltages that can kill, and mods, if performed improperly, can be a fire hazard.

Found this one over on the Tagboard forum and thought it would be a good addition here. It's a simple noise gate with minimal parts count that can easily fit in a 1590a. I've laid it out for a board mounted pot. The schematic calls for a 1M pot, but people have built this using one as low as 25k, so experiment there. The original schematic was a little hard to read so I redrew it.

Jefferson Fisher · Original audio

In this article, we will explore an effective bass amplifier circuit 2SC5200 and 2SA1943 power transistors paired with the TDA2030 IC.

Marzano's 9 Instructional Strategies include non-linguistic representations, generating and testing hypotheses, and summarizing.

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Here's the Klon again. I wanted one with board mounted pots and for a smaller enclosure. You might be able to fit this in a 1590B with low profile jacks, but it will easily fit in a 125B. It's designed for 9mm PCB mount pots, though it might be difficult to find the dual-gang Gain pot. Look for Alpha part number RD902F-40-00. I've removed a few components that were apart of the stock bypass switching for the sake of space, so you'll want to use your true bypass method of choice with this one.

The classic '70s overdrive by MXR, and is essentially the same as the DOD 250 and Ross Distortion. I designed the layout to have onboard pots, to alleviate some offboard wiring. It also has the LED resistor on the board, again to reduce offboard wiring a bit. It'll fit perfectly in a 1590B enclosure. Might be a good idea to socket the diodes. The original had germanium diodes, but silicon diodes or LEDs will sound good as well (just different).

I've had a couple requests for a 1590A friendly Tube Screamer, and lately I've really been enjoying laying out 1590A boards, so here it is. ...

Here's one of the most classic effects of all time, the Cry Baby wah-wah from Dunlop. The big red thing in the layout is the Fasel inductor, and there's room on the board for a pull down resistor at the input if you need it, I just didn't include it in the drawing. What else is there to say? Just build it!

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The way to create the "Reverb" effect can be divided into two types: mechanical and electronic, depending on the operation principle. The first and at the same

I can't remember how many times I've been asked to do this one. I started laying it out ages ago, but got frustrated or interrupted and never went back to it. But here it is now, better late than never. The layout is for board mounted pots and it will fit in a 125B enclosure. Just couldn't seem to get it narrow enough for a 1590B. Schematic can be found here.

Got a request to make a layout for this schematic, and it turns out it's the BYOC Reverb 2. You can use 9mm pots and board mount them from the component side if you like. There are a few jumpers, though one of them (the one by the lower IC) can be eliminated if you just stretch out that 22k resistor. Also, the electrolytic caps are folded down on their side so things will fit with board mounted 9mm pots. The Belton BTDR-2H can also be board mounted from the solder side. Don't feel like making the board yourself? You can buy a PCB or a complete kit from BYOC.

Here's another design from Jon Patton. It's a delay based on the popular PT2399, with an always-on preamp. The preamp is designed to have a flat EQ and won't alter your tone. So the In and Out pads go to the input/output jacks, instead of the switch. You could still wiring this for true-bypass (just jumper the footswitch pads), but it's designed to use a DPDT. Use one side to turn the delay on/off and the other for the LED indicator. Check out his build doc for a thorough and much better explanation of the circuit, a diagram for the footswitch wiring, as well as the schematic. In his layouts he has the Level and Tone controls as trimmers on the board. I chose to move these off-board, as it seems like useful controls to have externally.

It's Fuzz Friday! Here's a cool doom-style fuzz from DeadAstronaut over on the DIYSB forum. Pretty simple and should fit in a 1590a. Schematic and a ton of discussion can be found here.

Here's a weird one for you–the Shin Ei Octave Box. It's apparently an all analog clean octave down effect. I'm not going to pretend to understand how it works, but there are a lot of transistors. Originals used 2SC644 and 2SC666 transistors, which I think were in the massive TO-3 package. I've drawn the layout for more modern replacements, BC547s and a BC557. Other transistors like the 2N3904/06 or 2N5088/87 would probably work as well. Socket and experiment with what you have on hand.

Circuit analysis of the PT2399, a CMOS echo/delay/reverb processor by Princeton Technology.