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Corner bookshelves are an excellent way to maximize space, especially in small rooms where floor space is limited. From sleek and minimalist designs to rustic and vintage-inspired pieces, these bookshelves are sure to elevate the look of your home while providing functional storage for your favorite reads. Tree Branch Shelves In the realm of interior […]
5+ months in the making, but I did it! I finally finished this blog post! I’m not going to tell you how much I wanted an office that put off European-esque vibes. I am also not going to give you a lengthy story as to why I decided to tackle this project. Instead, let’s just jump into the tutorial. Because let’s be honest. That’s what you are here for. 😉 But first, before pictures. This is what the office looked like in the listing. This is what the office looked like after we moved in. And this is what the office looked like after a fresh coat of paint. From the first time we looked at the house, I had a vision of what this space would be. Given the fact that I was several months pregnant when we moved in, I knew my vision would have to wait so I settled for a fresh coat of paint until I could bring my complete vision to life. To not lose any of the details I sketched out my vision. I highly recommend doing this. By the time I actually started this project, I had sketched this space out at least 6 times. Looking back, I am glad I had all that extra time to perfect this space because it came out better than I ever had anticipated. My final sketch is shown below. Also, the misshaped books on the sketch is the handy work of our 6 year old. I think he did a great job! Now let’s get into the cost breakdown and supply list. Cost breakdownIKEA Billy Bookcases (4) – $196Wood – $269Paint + primer – $95Paint supplies – $37Appliqués – $26Knobs (pack of 8) – $11Inset hinges – $48Total cost: $682 Materials4 – billy bookcases from IkeaPaint & paint suppliesPrimerPaint of choice (I used Lemon Leaves by Magnolia Home)Angled paint brush4” foam rollers (specifically for cabinets and doors)Blue painters tapeTarpPaint stir sticks If you have a paint sprayer, I recommend using that in place of paint brushes and rollers. However, I didn’t have one at the time (I do now) so I tackled it the old fashioned way. AppliquésRose appliqués above archesRose appliqués on center frame pieces Wood4 – 2 x 4 x 12’3 – 1 x 3 x 8’1 – 1 x 10 x 8’ 2 – 1 x 2 x 8’1 – 1 x 4 x 8’ birch plywood sheet For all frame and visible wood pieces (with the exception of the arches) I used poplar wood. Note, I am not going to give you exact measurements since your space will be different than mine. But I did provide the wood dimensions I purchased/used before cutting them to size. ToolsTape measurePencilLevelSafety gogglesN95 maskImpact driverPhillips drill bitCircular sawJigsawMiter sawOrbital sander80 grit sandpaper (optional)120 grit sandpaper220 grit sandpaper220 grit handheld sand blockLint free clothBrad nailer2” finishing nails1” finishing nailsWood glueWood fillerPutty knifeCaulk gunCaulk Step 1: Remove the baseboards and trim then measure your space. Step 2: Build the base for the bookshelves. I used 2 – 2 x 4 x 12’ for the outside base and 12 – 2 x 4 x 8” planks for the crossbars. I secured the base using 3” exterior deck screws. I also secured the base to the back wall using the same 3” deck screws. I personally like using deck screws as they are easy to work with and I’ve never had to deal with the screws stripping. Tip: I cut the planks to 8” because the outside base pieces were 1 1/2” each which made the frame 11” total in width. That is the same width as the bookshelves. Note, there are a couple of height options. Make sure to get the bookcases that fit your space/look you are going for. Our ceilings are 8’ so we purchased the 79 1/2” ones. That left 16 1/2”, which was plenty of room to add arches. Step 3: Assemble the bookshelves if you have not already. Place them on the frame and determine where you want them to be permanently. Then measure the remaining space. You should really do all the math up front to make sure you buy the right amount of bookshelves for your space. For example, our space in total is 135”. The 4 bookcases are 126” total. That left 9” of space. I couldn’t evenly distribute the bookcases, so I spaced them by 1” on the inside which left 3” on the two ends. Note, I knew I wanted cabinets at the bottom, so I measured the tallest item I planned on storing in the cabinet and based the placement of the shelf nearest to the floor on that. Step 4: Add the backboard insert (that came with the bookshelf) or add your own. Then secure the bookcases to the wall. I used 2 – 2 x 3 x 6’ on each end to create the 3” gap and cut 1” pieces for the center. I had to custom cut the 1” pieces using 1 x 3” scrap wood I had on hand since 1” really means 3/4” when using nominal wood. Tip: Make sure to cut out the outlet holes on the backboards before securing the bookcases to the wall. We had two outlets. I used my jigsaw to cut the holes. If you don’t plan to paint the bookcases or fill in the holes then you can completely skip the next step. Step 5: Determine where you want to put the shelves permanently then fill in the remaining holes. I used light weight spackling paste and a putty knife to fill the holes. After the spackling was dry, I used my orbital sander and 120 grit sandpaper to sand all the bookcases. Sanding the bookcases before priming + painting is critical when using these bookshelves. They are crazy inexpensive because they are made out of particle board with a laminate casing. That means no sanding and priming will result in the paint easily scratching and ultimately peeling off. After sanding everything, I wiped the bookcases clean with a damp lint free cloth. Step 6: Make the arch template. I had to make two templates since the 2 arches on the ends had wider outer frames. Actually, I made 5 total. See below. Tip: I used the cardboard boxes the bookcases came in to create a template. I wasn’t 100% sure what I wanted them to look like. After cutting 4 different styles I ultimately went with the classic arch. I cut the cardboard to the size I needed the actual arch. I tied twine to a pencil, found the bottom center of the cardboard, held my finger down on the twine, traced the arch, then used a box cutter to cut out the arch. There are also tools out there designed to give you the perfect arch. I chose to do it the hard way. 😅 Step 7: Cut the arches out using a jigsaw. I used a new wood blade with 12 TPI. I cut the 4 x 8’ birch plywood sheet into 4 sections with my circular saw first. Then used the arch template to trace onto each of the 4 pieces. Note: You should wear safety goggles to prevent debris getting in your eyes. Step 8: Secure a 2 x 4 to the ceiling directly above the bookcases using 3” exterior deck screws. The 2 x 4 is what you will secure the arches to. You’ll want to use a level to make sure the 2 x 4 is flush with the bookcases. Step 9: Sand the arches using an orbital sander and 220 grit sandpaper. If the area where you cut the arches is a little rough, use 80 grit sandpaper to level it out then 220 to give it a smooth finish. Step 11: Cut the frame pieces. Step 10: Secure the arches to the 2 x 4 and bookcases using a brad nailer with 2” finishing nails. I cut the bottom frame piece first to use as a guide for the vertical trim. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper, then secure it before measuring and cutting the remaining frame pieces. I used 1 – 1 x 8 x 12’. There was a small gap at the bottom, so I used 1” half moon trim to hide it. I secured the bottom frame piece where it was level with the bottom shelf of the bookcases for a smooth transition. I then cut the remaining frame pieces. I had to custom cut the 2 outer frame pieces to 3 3/4” wide using 1 – 1 x 10 x 8’. I used my circular saw. I used decorative trim I found at Lowe’s for the ends. This is what the bookcases looked like after adding all the trim. If you are adding cabinet doors you’ll need to cut 1 x 2” pieces to size to secure along the lip of the bottom shelf. Because the shelf sits a little more inside the bookcase I had to use paint stir sticks to ensure the 1 x 2” trim pieces sit flush with the rest of the frame. If you do not plan to add doors, you can skip this step. Step 12: Sand all the frame pieces with 120 grit then 220 grit sandpaper for that ultra smooth finish. I secured the frame to the shelves and base using my brad nailer and 2” finishing nails. Step 13: Add wood filler to all cracks, crevices, and nail holes. Allow the wood filler to dry then sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Step 14: Use caulk to seal the space between the ceiling and frame as well as any visible gaps. Step 15: Prime everything and allow the primer to dry overnight. I cannot stress this step enough. Step 16: Paint the bookcases. I applied two coats of paint total. Allowing the first coat to dry before applying the second coat. I went with Lemon Leaves by Magnolia Home in Eggshell finish. Tip: Lightly sand in between paint coats with a handheld 220 grit sand block for that ultra smooth finish. Step 17: (Optional) Prime, paint, and secure the wood appliqués to the bookcases where desired. To secure them you’ll need wood glue and then a brad nailer with 1” finishing nails. I used THESE appliqués above the arches and THESE appliqués on the center frame pieces. Step 18: Style your new shelves! After waiting for 2+ months we finally got an electrician here to install THIS overhead light. Isn’t it a dream? I filled the shelves with things that I love. Old and new books, candles with character, a portrait of a horse, an original painting of flowers, a photo of my dad, Linnea candles, plants, and moody vases. For those wondering, I built the desk. Tutorial coming soon! For video content and BTS on this project visit my Instagram @acarriedaffairdesigns I saved all my stories to my story highlights titled “Office built-ins” For the tutorial on the DIY shaker style cabinet doors click HERE. I linked some of the items I used to style the shelves below + the chair. And that’s a wrap! For those that have been asking for this tutorial, I am sorry it took me 5 months. Hopefully you find this inspiring to create a space that you love. For more DIY follow me on Instagram @acarriedaffairdesigns Until next time friends. Xo Shop This Post
I’m in the market for a another work space. Our makeshift dinning room office is not only driving Abe crazy, it just isn’t sustainable anymore. And now that Coco is just half a year away…
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Refuge d'appoint pour les week-ends prolongés ou les congés, parfois point de chute professionnel, tout le monde peut être amené à investir dans un pied-à-terre citadin. Ce lieu de vie secondaire profite de la proximité avec la ville mais est le plus souvent contraint par un volume limité. Voilà pourquoi il souffre d'un manque de considération : le peu de temps passé dans une résidence secondaire n'encourage pas forcément les travaux. Une erreur si l'on considère le potentiel sous-jacent de ces petits cocons. Après plusieurs années de vagabondage dans ce pied-à-terre de la Capitale, les propriétaires ont décidé de lui offrir un lifting mérité. Le 61 m2 manquait cruellement de fonctionnalité avec des pièces étriquées, laissées dans leur jus, il devenait donc urgent de repenser la distribution globale. Une mission de haut vol confiée à l'expertise de l'agence Boclaud Architecture.
Welcome to the 3rd installment of What We're Loving! Each month, we'll be sharing all the things we stumbled upon and felt compelled to share this month. We're talking recipes, products, new books, and most importantly, decor. Check back every month to see what's inspiring us. A Modern DIY Bathroom Organizer from Paper & Stitch I love the idea of a DIY organizer, especially when you've got a small space to work with and want to stray away of those icky shiny metal organizers. The raw/natural look of it is great, but imagine would it could look like if you took it a step further with black paint. Check out their post on how to make it yourself here. Sunburst Door Handle I stumbled upon these uniquely designed door handles this week and am in LOVE. You can purchase here. They can be made custom for any width of door too! Abstract Peel & Stick Wallpaper Imagine each time you needed to do laundry, you could walk into this space? It would go from one of the most annoying house chores to one of the most pleasant in a matter of seconds. It's bold and might not be best for a common space in the home, but laundry, kids room or nursery are a perfect place to experiment with something wild. And when it's peel and stick, you've got nothing to lose! You can get it here on Etsy. A 70's Style Sunken Living Room But For The Outdoors I've never stepped foot into a 70's style sunken living room but have seen my fair share of them in movies. They seem a little hard to decorate with furniture but are a great place to gather a group for a party. Which is why this outdoor sunken space is calling my name. DIY Fluting Tables I'm starting to see these gorgeous dining tables popping up on Instagram and Pinterest and while the real deals can cost $4600+, there are so many DIY articles coming out to show us how to make it happen for WAY less. Check out these two DIY table projects you can tackle this weekend: Via Britdotdesign Via Goldalamode.co Terrazzo Bathroom Tile Terrazzo patterns are popping up all over the place but this bold look in bathrooms is really catching my eye. Image via Pinterest Via Pinterest Via Pinterest via Behance Via Behance Source I hope you enjoyed! Until next month! PS. Keep in mind that we may receive small commissions when you click the links in our blog posts and make purchases. It helps keep this 'lil blog going!
As an avid reader, I know the importance of having a cozy and comfortable reading nook.
Pandemic Architecture, an International Ideas Competition curated by the Design Ambassador for ARCHISEARCH.gr, invited the creative community to open up a dialogue and create a think tank, looking for ideas from the architectural and design community about the future of the living, the workspace, the public space and the tourism industry after the outbreak of Covid-19. Vertical Village – Domestic Space was shortlisted in top 50 out of 440 projects. -text by the authors PROLOGUE How could we live healthier (physically and mentally) a future quarantine? How can we live together? How can we combine nature into the dense city? What is important for our lives? These are some of the main questions which drives to the creation of the Vertical Village. CONCEPT Vertical Village is a proposal for the future living space, which provides solutions for a future pandemic. Vertical Village cannot predict the generation or appearance of a virus but it can help the elimination of it and the healthy (physical and mental) life of people during this period. It has three main goals and one principle. The goals are to avoid social isolation, to enhance the nature elements at the living spaces and to find ways to continue the personal productivity during pandemic periods. The main principal is the community. The Vertical Village is constructed by clear defined elements: a grid(a), a metal structure(b), units(c), vertical connection(d), a community system(e) and platforms(f). A grid of 5×5 will be the plan where the proposal city will evolve. A metal structure at the form of scaffolding is following the grid and is populated at the z axis by 4m height. A light metal 3D cloud is created which allows the sun to trespass and the optical connection. Different units, with different sizes relevant to the different inhabitants are generated following the 5×5 grid. Each unit consists of a closed space and an open space. The open space, it does not only provide the inhabitant with sun projection but it is also a productivity area for either agricultural or livestock farming. This element provides both the ability to obtain fruits, vegetables and meat during pandemic period as well as a productive occupation, crucial for the mental and physical health. Vertical connection, elevator and stairs, allow the inhabitants to access their units. Vertical transforming system allows them to exchange goods from their agricultural and livestock activities between each other. Community system is an organization system which divides the city community into smaller communities. If for example a Vertical Village consists of 100 units, during the first level of a future quarantine it will be divided to 2 comunities of 5 units. At the second more emergency level of the quarantine it will be divided to 4 communites of 25 units and so on, with the smallest size of finally community the 3 units. By this way, the social isolation will be avoided and the vulnerable groups disabled will be helped. Platforms are the common areas between the units. Light furniture are placed, such as benches, seats and tables, to enhance the sharing between the inhabitants. EPILOGUE Architect is a dreamer and at the same time is a problem solver. The role of architect during public health emergencies does not change. His role is to recognize human needs and to transfer them in space, to make a proposal for a healthy way of living. Facts & Credits Participants: Maria Petsani Country: Greece The project was shortlisted in top 50 out of 440 projects. The impact of Pandemic Architecture competition on the international architectural community was astonishing, with the number of registrations to exceed 800, with the final proposals to exceed 400 and with participants from more than 60 different countries. Results will be officially announced on the 25th of September. _________________________________________ Check out the open call and the jury here! READ ALSO: LARGE HOUSING DEVELOPMENTS IN TIMES OF PANDEMIC | Pandemic Architecture Top50
The supermodel enlisted designer Ross Cassidy to craft a sustainable abode in alignment with her environmental advocacy
Skiffers or corner protectors are attractive solid brass castings designed to prevent damage to skirting boards and wall corners, an elegant and durable way to guard against scuffs and damage. It is all too easy to scuff corners, for example when vacuum cleaning or moving furniture. Our corner protectors not only prevent this, but also add an attractive detail to a normally bland area. Choice of finishes: Antique Brass, Polished Brass, Bronze, Satin Brass, Brushed Chrome, Polished Chrome, Pewter, Polished Nickel, Satin Nickel, Black. Available in 3 sizes. Comes with matching screws.
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