How to Make a Custom Sewing Machine Case: We all have funny things we geek-out about. For me it's sewing machines from the 1940s through 1970s. I like tinkering with machines from this era as well as sewing with them, specifically Berninas, Pfaffs, and Necchis. There are a lot of "old sewin…
Many of us swear by specific products. I’m a fan of many of them because what works on one brand of an antique sewing machine, is terrible on another (such as
In this post, I'll walk you through the process of removing rust from your vintage sewing machine in order to clean and restore it.
Since I inherited my granny’s sewing machine I have the need for threads in my stitching machine, I am no professional stitchery artist but I have managed to pick up the basics to make someth…
Restoring a Vintage Sewing Machine
In this post, I'll list all of the resources I've found helpful on restoring vintage sewing machines, including blogs, forums, youtube channels, and shops.
How to Restore Singer Antique Sewing Machine Project with take you through the process of greasing, taking apart, cleaning, vaccuming and reassembling. Have you ever see a vintage sewing machine at a thrift shop that made you wonder if you could restore it to proper working order ? The Singer…
How to Restore a Band Saw: Howdy, i'm Dave from Parts and Restoration and today, were gonna fully restore an old band saw! LETS GET TO IT!!
In this post, I'll walk you through the process of removing rust from your vintage sewing machine in order to clean and restore it.
You just have to see how Larissa of Prodigal Pieces took this upcycled antique sewing machine table top & turned it into a game board!
Have you ever looked at an old vintage sewing machine which is perhaps a bit rusty and thought "ooh I'd love that, if I had time to clean it...
Learn the basics of restoring a treadle machine. By Tasha Griffith.
I posted about the 3 vintage Singers that followed me home a couple of weeks ago; now I thought I'd give a step-by-step of how I do a basic clean up on one of the full-size ladies. My techniques have been gleaned from research at places like the Yahoo Vintage Singers group, David McCallum's Featherweight DVDs & books, various posters at Pattern Review, and lots of experimentation on the old machines that have found their way to my house. Some of those experiments were not so successful - like rubbing your machine down with Gojo = epic fail, or dunking an entire machine in a tub of kerosene = epic waste of time, energy and $$$ (yes, people actually DO recommend those techniques!). Folks do have their own favorite products & methods; what follows works for me. :-) Here's Gabrielle - the machines belonged to a French woman, so they all got French names. (....yes, of course I name my machines. Don't you?). She's the 1926 66 as she looked when she came in the door. Well, actually, this is after I removed her from her treadle cabinet, which needs way more refurbishing than she did, but that's another story.... She really wasn't too bad - lots of dust, a little rust, a few scratches & some grimey areas, hand wheel was sticky, but I saw no serious issues, and the decals were really in very good shape. And hey, it's a treadle! A totally mechanical workhorse - not even any electrical wires to give concern! It's hard to find an unfixable surprise with one of these beauties :) Here are the tools of the trade that I use: Start with an old towel or cloth as your work surface. Then, clockwise from left: OXO Brite (the way cheaper version of OxyClean) to clean up the metal bits. Maguiar's Scratch X - Fabulous first step to remove those fine scratches and built up grime. A good Carnauba Wax WD-40 - Good cleaner for the gears & moving metal bits inside the machine (more about this later) Sewing Machine Oil. Rags Sewing Machine Lube (Necessary for a machine w/ a motor - I didn't use any on this one) Screw Drivers. Other ingredients that didn't make it into the pic: Q-tips, small cleaning brush, tweezers, little bowls to hold all the little bits as you remove them, a camera or piece of paper to document any parts you dismantle until you know by heart which little spring & screw goes where, a good non-scratch Metal Polish, and a good manual for whatever machine you're working on. By the way, even if you have the original manual for your machine, go check this site out for great, picture-heavy service manuals. I have all of the info printed out for every model I own, and it is indispensable!: Tools for Self Reliance I seriously can't recommend this site highly enough! Here's Gabrielle's gorgeous spoked hand wheel - there's something about these old spoked wheels - I just love them! : OK, let's get started! Step one is to dust her off - you can even do a wipe down with some gentle dish soap if you have a really grimy baby on your hands. I then go straight to the metal bits, & start removing them. USE THE RIGHT SIZE SCREWDRIVER. Sorry for shouting, but this is how screws get stripped - make sure your screwdriver slot is a match for the slot in the screw - life will be so much easier if you just get into the habit of doing this right off the bat. Need I add the infamous phrase "Ask me how I know?" ;D Oh, and a note about vintage Singer screws: each one is unique & unusual, and you will NOT find a replacement in a hardware store. In fact, the only place to find a replacement for a missing screw is off another vintage Singer. Translation: do NOT lose your screws! I usually start by simply removing the bobbin cover plates. What you find under here will tell you a lot about how well the machine was maintained. Remove any threads & fluff that you find with your tweezers & brush. I give this area a good blast with WD-40 & let it do its thing with all the gunk that is invariably built up here. Then I'll wipe it down, removing any excess WD-40. A note on WD-40: This is is NOT a substitute for SM oil, but it is perfectly safe to use on your metal parts. It's an excellent cleaner - just don't get it on any rubber bits, & wipe up any excess. Once I have the bobbin area cleaned, I'll start removing all of the other metal parts. Remove the hand wheel by unscrewing the chrome disc in the center. There are a number of different bobbin winder types. If you have one that looks like this, PROCEED WITH CAUTION! There are a few types that have a spring which will fly across the room as soon as it's released. When it does this, go find it (You're doing this in daylight, right?) Then curse a bit when you realize you have no clue just how, exactly, it fit into the slots & holes that it just sprang out of. Don't worry, you'll figure it out. Eventually. Can you see the little spring just behind that forked bit? The bit that looks like cute lil bunny ears (but is really devil's horns in disguise?) That's the spring I'm talking about. Just so's you know.... Here are the removed metal pieces, which are ready for their spa soak. Face plate, back plate, bobbin cover plates, tension parts (this is another section to document as you dismantle it, and/or have good manual pictures to follow), the hand wheel parts, and lots of little screws. I kept all of the bobbin winder parts completely separate in this case. Plop some OXO Brite into a bowl that's large enough to hold all of your metal bits, (JUST the metal bits...don't add anything that has lacquer.....and, um.....don't ask me how I know about that one either.....), add boiling water, then let your metal bits soak for 10-20 minutes. Remove the metal bits, rinse them THOROUGHLY, then dry them - THOROUGHLY. If you do this with SM feet (I do) or anything with tiny crevices that might hold moisture, I suggest using a hair dryer to make SURE they are COMPLETELY dry. You know how rust happens? Now is a good time to go over the show pieces (face plate, etc.) with some metal polish. Although the OXO does a pretty thorough job, if your machine is really old, the metal polish will give it that extra oomph. All shined up! While everything is soaking, you can go after the gears & moving parts. I clean up any really filthy, gunky parts with WD40. (Don't forget to dry it well) Then start feeding. :) Follow your manual instructions regarding the oil spots, but mostly it's common sense. Just feed a drop of oil (just a drop - don't overdo it....) to any area that has moving parts that rub against each other. Under the machine: On top: Inside the face plate: Turn your wheel & feel & listen as everything starts to loosen up & glide - such a gratifying feeling! Now it's time to start with the massage portion of the spa treatment :) Bring out the Scratch X, & put a small dollop on your massage cloth (this is where my old tshirts live out their life): Now, gently (don't rub hard) massage the cream on to the lacquer. Do this on small portions at a time - maybe half the bed (or less, depending on how dirty your machine is. Don't let the cream dry, & don't do it for too long. This isn't scary stuff, but you can overdo it. (I took it to its limits on a machine I knew would need a total repaint job, just to see what the limits are -- you can rub TOO hard, and you can rub too long, but it really did take some elbow grease to overdo it) Just treat it like a gentle face cream that you don't want to use too much of, and you'll be fine. Don't rub too hard on the decals. Wipe it completely dry, give it a good rub to bring out the shine, and move on to the next section. One treatment is enough - you'll never need to do it again. After the Scratch X Treatment - looking pretty good!: Next step is your wax job. I like doing 2 (or maybe 3) coats, with thin layers of wax. Apply wax with a soft cloth, let it dry, rub it down well. Ahhhhh........... now you can REALLY feel and see the difference! Put all of her jewelry and make-up back on, and she's ready to roll! For comparison: Before After Now, I just need to get a new treadle belt, clean up the cabinet, move her into her working spot, and get treadling! I'm a bit torn about whether or not to wait until I have the time & energy to refinish her cabinet, or if I should just give it a basic cleaning so that I can get started sooner - I think I won't be able to wait.... I'll be doing a post about cleaning up Gabrielle's sister, Colette, the Featherweight, soon (I hope!). Feathers do have a few other steps - they're special, you know....... Meanwhile, here's to providing good, loving homes to all our vintage orphans!
In this post, I'll show you how to restore, clean, and use your Singer 15 sewing machine, one of the most iconic sewing machines Singer ever made.
Restoring an Antique Screwdriver: Today I will show you how I restored this antique C.D. Smith Co. Perfect 'Winged' Handle screwdriver (marketplace find). You might be wondering why would anyone want to restore a simple tool like this? For me, it all started with watching 'My mechan…
This is the last installment in my series on fixing my 1948 Singer sewing machine, because it’s completely restored! You can check the earlier parts by clicking the links: part 1, part 2, par…
Superb SINGER 20 Sewhandy Vintage Toy Sewing Machine Thoroughly Restored, Cleaned, Detailed & Serviced ! Ready to sew just right out of the box ! Includes: - SINGER 20 Sewhandy - User's manual with Icons / Pictograms Easy to understand for everyone reproduced
Vintage sewing machines make a beautiful addition to any quilting room. With a little work, a dusty old machine can become a quilting workhorse.
Great bones, but veneer needed to go. Peeling veneer. Not an easy task, but if done right veneer peels right off. The key is patience. I have always th…
In this post, I'll walk you through the process of removing rust from your vintage sewing machine in order to clean and restore it.
In this post, I'll show you how to restore, clean, and use your Singer 15 sewing machine, one of the most iconic sewing machines Singer ever made.
A nice set of 24 unique vintage gauges in individual JPG and PNG versions ( transparent background). The images are 2 inches wide and 300 DPI. I have digitally restored these images using advanced cutting-edge A.I. (Artificial Intelligence) machine learning algorithms resulting in very crisp and clear images beyond what most vintage image restorers are capable of producing while leaving some imperfections to maintain a nice vintage look. PLEASE NOTE: This is a digital product so no physical items will be shipped. You will need to print the files yourself. You will need appropriate software to use JPG and PNG files. As soon as you complete your purchase the files will be available for you to download from ETSY. There will be 1 Zip file to download containing everything. These files can be used for COMMERCIAL PURPOSES as long as they are a part of a finished item like an invitation, shirt, graphic etc. You MAY NOT sell, share or upload the actual files to any file sharing site.
Restoring a Vintage Sewing Machine
Complete teardown letterpresses from Kelsey, Chandler and Price, and others...Lovingly and painstakingly restored to better than new condition.
This restoration project was all my doings! My grand-daddy used to have a small store on the top of Lookout Mountain, in Fort Payne, AL. I could go in this store and “buy” whatever I wa…
If you are a member of the Singer Featherweight 221 & 222K Sewing Machines Facebook group then chances are you've seen some of the clever...
Get rid of the confusion surrounding Singer Vibrating Shuttle sewing machines. From the VS #1, #2, and #3 models to the Model #27 and #28, learn everything you need to know.
I love the color of the carriage.
My hubs thought I was going a little overboard with the decorative hand painting on the custom Singer 66 . Then I busted out my other...
Nothing is more important for achieving a quality stitch than keeping the bobbin and feed-dog area cleaned and oiled. Below, you will find instructions on how to do that, for 4 different types of sewing machines. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area on an Oscillating Hook System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin case, take the bobbin out and clean the inside of the bobbin case with your brush. Inspect the tension spring and make sure there isn't any lint underneath it. 3. Remove, or release the retention ring and brush it off. 4. Remove the hook and brush it off, inside and out. Inspect for burrs on the point. These may be removed by sanding very gently, with a very fine sandpaper (500 grit). 5. Remove the needle plate. Inspect for burrs. These burrs may also be sanded off. 6. Then sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area, from top to bottom. Brush it towards the front of the machine, to keep it out of the gears. 7. Inspect the race (the ledge that the hook sits on) for lint or embedded needle fragments. Use a big pin or small screw driver to remove any particles. 8. Put only 1 drop of oil on the race. 9. Put it back together. When you look into your bobbin area, you will see the “driver,” which creates a half-circle. The hook completes the other half of the circle, and just sits on the ledge; it doesn’t snap in. Replace the retention ring and needle plate. 10. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area on a Drop-in Bobbin System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin. 3. Remove the needle plate. Some needle plates have a metal bobbin cover that slides forward, but doesn’t come all the way out. Inspect for burrs. These burrs may be sanded off with a very fine sandpaper — about 500 grit. 4. Remove the bobbin case. Singers have a retention finger that twists out of the way with a screwdriver. Others have screws that shouldn’t need to be unscrewed. The bobbin case needs to have a little side-to-side “play” to let the thread through at the spring. Brush off the inside and outside of the bobbin case. 5. Inspect the bobbin case for cuts, plastic fuzz or needle holes. A plastic bobbin case can be gently sanded with very fine sandpaper — about 500 grit. However, sometimes sanding will just make things worse. You may try to remove a burr with a razor blade, which may only be marginally effective. Replace the bobbin case if it is too badly damaged. 6. Inspect the hook for burrs. The hook is the pointed part of the ring that rotates around the bobbin case. It’s important to sand any burrs off of the hook—only with a very fine sand paper. 7. Sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area. 8. Put a drop of oil in the center hole. Some will have a “wick,” in the center hole, that looks like a tiny stick of felt. It will keep the oil going where it’s needed. If there is a moving ring around the center hole, put a drop of oil between the stationary part and the rotating part. 9. Check the spring. When this spring is bent out of shape, the machine will make a loud thumping sound. You may try to gently bend it back into shape, if it needs it. Or it may be necessary to replace it. 10. Put it back together. The bobbin case sits on a ledge in the hole, with the tension screw to the front. Singer bobbin cases sit on a ledge, then put the retention finger back into place. Remember that there should be a little “play” to let the thread go through at the spring. Replace the needle plate. 11. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area of a Stationary Rotary Hook System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin case, take the bobbin out and clean the inside of the bobbin case with your brush. 3. Remove the needle plate. Inspect for burrs on the needle plate and also on the point of the hook. These burrs may be gently sanded off with a very fine sandpaper — about 500 grit. 4. Sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area, from top to bottom. There may be threads tangled behind the hook assembly, which should be removed. You may need to remove the throat plate to get to that area. However, not all machines have a throat plate that is removable. Please don’t remove the front or back of your machine. Use tweezers and a hooked seam ripper to remove these threads, only if that area is accessible. This is something you may want your sewing machine mechanic to do. 5. Put a drop of oil in between the part of the hook that rotates, and the part that is stationary. Then put another drop on the center post. 6. Put it back together. Replace the throat plate and/or needle plate. 7. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil. How to Clean and Oil the Bobbin and Feed Dog Area of a Floating Rotary Hook System: 1. You will need the brush that came with your machine, or a stiff paint brush or toothbrush. You will also need clear “sewing machine” oil. 2. Remove the bobbin case, take the bobbin out and clean the inside of the bobbin case with your brush. 3. Remove the screws that hold the retention piece in place. Remove the retention piece and brush it clean. 4. Remove the hook and brush it clean, inside and out. Inspect for burrs or a broken point. The rough spot may be gently sanded off with a very fine sandpaper -- about 500 gritt. 5. Remove the needle plate, or throat plate if it is removable. Inspect for burrs on the needle plate. These burrs may also be gently sanded off with a very fine sandpaper. 6. Sweep all the lint out of the feed dog and bobbin area, from top to bottom. There may be threads tangled behind the hook assembly, which should be removed. You may need to remove the throat plate to get to that area. However, not all machines have a throat plate that is removable. Please don’t remove the front or back of your machine. Use tweezers and a hooked seam ripper to remove these threads, only if that area is accessible. This is something you may want your sewing machine mechanic to do. 7. Put a drop of oil on the center post only. Do not put oil on the plastic driver. 8. Put it back together. You’ll need to tilt the machine back so you’ll have gravity on your side. Replace the hook. The back of the hook has a nub that fits into a dent in the driver. Replace the retention piece, throat plate and/or needle plate. 9. Before you sew on your project, sew on a scrap of flannel to remove any excess oil.
For this Antique Sewing Machine Drawer Upcycle, we used the drawers from an old Singer to make a rolling storage solution for our craft room!
Although it looks like a big job, with these quick tips, removing veneer is not as hard as you might be thinking. I'm going to show you exactly how I repaired the top by sharing some easy tips on how to remove veneer.
