Copyright Anne Ibach 2018 I’ve developed my own pattern over time by taking tricks and techniques from different video and print tutorials I’ve seen, and by adding my own tricks and techniques. Thi…

Hi everyone :-)Here is the tutorial with measurements for the house box for the children`s hour mini album.The stand, box,stair and roof is made separate so you can make this as a box with stand or ju

-This is digital item(downladble pattern)not finished doll - You will see the download link in the details of your order immediately.After your payment,the file is ready to download -Crochet level: intermediate and above. -Finished doll is 6 cm height - Pdf files includes detailed instructions with many pictures of the doll and clothes. This pattern is for personal use only. It is prohibited to copy, translate or distribute, re-selling the pattern and the contents of this document in any way. Refund and Cancel order policy: Because these are digital files, once the order is completed, I DO NOT accept any cancelation or refund.

Copyright Anne Ibach 2018 I’ve developed my own pattern over time by taking tricks and techniques from different video and print tutorials I’ve seen, and by adding my own tricks and techniques. Thi…

This Diary of Anne Frank Play Study Unit Bundle is chock-full of engaging Projects, Assesments, & Activities. There are ten complete and ready-to-go ( no prep!) resources for you and your students as you begin your Diary of Anne Frank Unit. If you need new ways to get them excited about reading, this Anne Frank unit will have them thinking deeply, connecting with characters, and even writing creatively. HERE IS WHAT IS INCLUDED: (THE DIARY OF ANNE FRANK THE PLAY COMPLETE UNIT BUNDLE for The Diary of Anne Frank: The Play (by Albert Hackett and Frances Goodrich): 1) INTRODUCING THE DIARY OF ANNE FRANK: VIDEO AND ACTIVITY This introductory activity includes a video presenting ten slides of images related to the Holocaust and Anne Frank's story. Students will be asked to write down their immediate thoughts and reactions as they view the images within the slides. Upon viewing the video, students will then create a poem, paragraph, drawing, etc. of their initial reaction of what they believe the novel/play will be about. 2) TIMELINE UNIT PROJECT This project encourages student engagement throughout the entire progression of the play. It includes a guideline with instructions for the students, a graphic organizer for note-taking, and an easy-to-grade rubric for you. This can be done individually, in pairs, or in groups. 3) PLOT ENGAGEMENT: MAKING INFERENCES Your students will make inferences about the plot based on a short section of the novel they are given. Through reading deeply and thinking critically, students will make inferences by answering the questions about their section. 4) CHARACTER ANALYSIS/CHARACTERIZATION ACTIVITY This is a deeply engaging activity for your students to not only learn how to analyze/characterize literature but learn how to reflect and grow as individuals through reading. Includes PowerPoint, Student Notes, Paragraph/Essay Prompt, Self-Reflection 5) VOCABULARY PACKET AND PRESENTATION: This packet provides a great way to integrate vocabulary and reading comprehension as students are asked to find, define, illustrate, and present their own vocabulary words throughout the play. This packet also provides you with two easy-to-grade rubrics that will not have you looking up hundreds of definitions! 6) INTEGRATING GRAMMAR: Students will use the play to review the 8 parts of speech. This is a great way to give a grammar lesson while teaching the play vs. teaching grammar through isolation. Included in this lesson is a great graphic organizer for students to keep in their binders throughout the year (no matter what you are teaching!) 7) CREATIVE WRITING: Reinventing a Scene: This activity not only helps them to further engage in the play but also allows them to work on Creative Writing. This lesson is designed with careful detail to help each student brainstorm how to Reinvent a scene from the play. Easy-to-grade Rubric is also provided! 8) LETTER WRITING: Letter to a Character: This lesson will help students think critically about how characters are driven by plot. In addition, this lesson will hold your students accountable for their reading engagement. This lesson is also print-ready-to-go to allow for little effort on your part! 9) WORD SEARCH Word search with character names and terms for review. 10) 50 QUESTION UNIT EXAM AND ESSAY 50 question unit exam that includes 25 multiple choice comprehension/critical thinking questions, 15 character and terminology matching questions, and 10 grammar and vocabulary questions (optional). Answer key provided. This packet also includes an Essay prompt that may be used as part of the exam (based on how much time your class periods allow for assessment) or assigned as an individual take-home or in-class essay. A Rubric, a Brainstorming Sheet, an Outline Sheet, and a Final Draft Sheet are provided. (The latter three are optional based on your preference.) Suggested Timeline/Order to teach each lesson: PRE-READING: 1) INTRODUCE THE PLAY (VIDEO & ACTIVITY) DURING READING: 2) UNIT TIMELINE PROJECT (given before reading and worked on throughout the unit) 3) VOCABULARY PACKET AND PRESENTATION (given before reading and worked on throughout the unit) 4) PLOT ENGAGEMENT: READING AND MAKING INFERENCES WORKSHEETS (best done during one of the first few scenes) 5) INTEGRATING GRAMMAR (can be done at any point) POST-READING: 6) CHARACTER ANALYSIS/CHARACTERIZATION ACTIVITY 7) CREATIVE WRITING: Reinventing a Scene 8) LETTER WRITING: Letter to a Character 9) WORD SEARCH ACTIVITY 10) FINAL ESSAY ASSESSMENT ***************************************************************************** Check out my other products for literary analysis and writing activities: SHORT STORY CREATIVE WRITING PACKET END OF THE YEAR ACTIVITY: LETTER TO MY FAVORITE TEACHER THE OUTSIDERS UNIT PACKET THE GIVER UNIT PACKET ***************************************************************************** IF YOU DIG MY PRODUCTS, I'D LOVE YOUR FOLLOW!: • Look for the green star next to my store logo and click it to become a follower. *****************************************************************************

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I’ve been having fun making my own paper piecing templates in Excel. It’s taken some time to figure out how to set the columns to inches rather than whatever Excel measures in. But Goog…

This is a listing for an oil painting recreation of Faith And Fate. Available in various sizes. If you'd like to see a slightly different color scheme please write your preferences in the note with the purchase Each painting will be painted with oils on stretched canvas and varnished after drying. Every painting cannot be a 100% replica but it can be quite close to that if desired by the client. Roughly estimated time of completion is 2-3 weeks Roughly estimated time of drying and varnish is 2 weeks Shipping times will vary and depend on the destination IMPORTANT When shipping to countries other than Canada and USA, paintings larger than 20x30" will be shipped rolled in a tube When shipping 36x48" or larger, paintings will be rolled regardless of the destination.

I received McCall's 7575 ‘free’ in my sewing magazine. This pattern was useful to me but I am going to cancel magazine subscriptions when I am able to as so many I receive are not useful to me usually for style but often for size too. This pattern contains all sizes 8 - 24. On the envelope, the button band appears to be pulled apart at the bust. I don't know if you can make this out from the image here. I like the floral view D with the mandarin collar and the checked view A with standard collar I like views A and D both of which have the longer shaped hem. Anyway, this pattern was a Palmer Pletsch tissue fitting pattern, so I decided to have a go at tissue fitting. I have tried before but didn’t manage and didn’t like the process. This time, I had a specific pattern, specific instructions and the latest edition of Fit for Real People - actually called ‘The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting’. The book is similar in feel to the previous version but more comprehensive. There are chunks repeated from the previous one. It’s more than simply a new edition. I think the cover looks a bit old-fashioned, or retro? It's not bad but does concentrate on tissue fitting. I went back to Thursday sewing for the new term on Thursday 13th and asked Lyn to help me tissue fit this pattern. I believe it is possible on your own but didn’t think it would be very easy. Lyn agreed. I chose my size as suggested. I asked Lyn to take my high bust measurement as specified in the instructions - that is, the tape is NOT parallel to the floor, but also includes the shoulder blades. Lyn looked at the instructions and measured me as 41” (we did in in inches rather than our more usual centimetres as that’s easier with these patterns). That was in-between the full bust size of the 18 and 20 so I chose the 18, the smaller of the two sizes, as specified. My full bust is 43” - so by the traditional way of working this out, I’d be a B cup, just as the pattern is written for and wouldn’t need to alter. However, my bra size is 36DD - E, depending on brand so I certainly need to do a FBA. I think my back is relatively narrow - most of my circumference is at the front. I carefully taped up the seam (and pin) lines so they wouldn’t rip, pinned band to front, back to front, darts and shoulders together and tried on the pattern, cut out in a straight 18 as instructed. Now, I am 5’11”, a 36DD bra size and with large hips and derriere (probably more like a size 24) - so if this had fitted straight off that would have been remarkable. Not surprisingly, it didn’t. It’s quite difficult to pull the pattern as firmly as they recommend but we tried. Lyn said my armscye needed dropped a smidgen. My dart points were not in the correct place and the waistline was too high. Strangely, the front met my mid-line at the boobs, just, but I wasn’t convinced about this as I felt the pinning of the band was a bit insecure, allowing there to seem to be more room. I don't have any photos from the sewing bee as it's just too awkward to do. I dropped the armscye by ¼” back and front. I undertook a full bust adjustment of 1” using the Y method (but having since received my Threads magazine, I like that method better as you basically ignore the original marked bust point on the pattern). At least, I started using the Y method, but it ended up more like the usual. One of the advantages of doing a FBA is that this would add a little in the hip area where I would surely need it as my body is A/8 shaped. Again, the instructions suggest that you do the FBA and then determine whether you need the dart position altered as the FBA drops the apex position. So many different steps. After the FBA, I dropped the dart by the amount measured. The point hadn’t dropped much at all. After the lengthening process and the FBA, I had to redraw the position of one of the legs of the front vertical dart as the cutting line goes right up through the centre of the dart. In addition, I dropped the waistline by 1” at the front (only). I altered the front band to match, increasing its length in 3 places - where I had lowered armscye (¼”), where I had dropped waistline (1”) and where I had lowered front for FBA (½”) Where I deviate from the method I went to Ikea to buy some calico for a toile as I really wasn’t feeling this tissue method and it’s quite difficult to get fitted in class as we have a male attending - and the toilet is far from a suitable place. I would need to have several fittings, altering certain bits each time. The class wouldn’t really be the place for that as others, of course, need tutor input. So, I decided I would make a full body version in calico rather than the half body you get with tissue. I also feared that as I am somewhat asymmetrical that I’d have to do this anyway though the method misses out the toile stage completely. I don't fancy faffing around with my real fabric when I get to it. Obviously, by doing a toile in calico, I am no longer following the method. First, I checked the pattern pieces I had to ensure they matched each other. I realised that having lowered waist in front but not having done the same at the back created a problem. I felt I should have done a wedge-shaped alteration rather than a parallel inset and Lyn confirmed this. I therefore reduced the 1” insert to ½” at the side seam but kept the 1” insert at the centre I then added a new wedge to the back, ½” at the side seam and tapering to zero at the centre. The front and back side seams now fitted perfectly together. This created a wonky centre line on the bodice piece and I had to straighten this by taking the extra off in the middle area. Lyn pointed out that my suggestion of just drawing the line straight and therefore adding at the hip line would not work as this would mean that the band would be at an angle. Likewise, the top part could not be adjusted. The amount taken off was larger than either of us expected, and Lyn felt I might need to add that on again at the side seam. As I was using 1” in-case seam allowances, I felt I didn’t need to do anything at that stage. But see later! I also asked Lyn to measure my biceps and determined that I needed a 1.5” increase in the sleeve circumference. This blouse has a two-piece sleeve so that allows more room for manoeuvre. I previously determined that when I do full biceps adjustments that the sleeve head becomes too wide - I just don’t need extra there. In addition, I usually require extra sleeve cap height. This makes my sleeve head longer and skinnier. Having adjusted the sleeve cap height, I decided that I didn’t want to further impact that by involving that in a biceps adjustment. Lyn therefore suggested that the easiest method would simply be to cut a bigger size for the arms. I realised that this would mean increasing the bodice armscye, but I was going to be using 1” ‘in case’ seam allowances at the side seams, as recommended. I then cut out my pieces - sleeves, upper and lower; fronts; front bands; back and back yoke (I didn’t make any adjustments to the upper back as Lyn felt they fitted well.) Not cuffs, collar etc yet. When cutting out, I manually added an extra allowance of ⅜” to the side seams by drawing them in on the calico, to give a total 1” seam allowance. I pinned the pieces together and realised I had just enough time to machine baste together sewing darts on one side only and to give Lyn a quick look (blouse over tee). I didn’t have time to insert the sleeves but tried one on for size. Conclusions from this hasty trying on (sorry no photos): The shoulders, back and neck fit well The bustline looks good The back dart needs lengthened upwards When sewing, there needs to be greater dart intake at my waist. The blouse is very tight at waist and hips - the 1” SA was inadequate even let out to its fullest. The instructions are clear not to pre-suppose that you need extra at the hips even though you probably do. This is for two reasons a) doing a FBA will increase the garment hip circumference and b) harking back to the original seam lines makes it clearer what needs to be done and allows even change. I need to add ⅜” at the waist and ¾” at the hip both back and front The sleeves are too loose but probably the correct length given that there is a cuff to be added to the final garment. I haven’t quite decided whether I will have the long-sleeved cuffed version but felt it was best to get the sleeve fitted in this style. Although trying on over a tee is less than ideal, this is the best I can expect in the circumstances. Next steps: When I arrived home from sewing bee, it was pouring, and I didn’t want to get me or my sewing stuff wet. So I left it in the car. I decided to start this post, working through what I needed to do next, instead of working on the actual toile or pattern. However, when it stopped raining I took the opportunity to bring my stuff inside. I tried on the toile without the tee shirt, over my bra. I was pretty pleased with the dart placement. I was less sure about the shoulders as one side is unpicked and I can’t really judge, but the front seemed to be pulling forward and the back neckline up towards my hair. I’ll review that later. I don’t usually have to do a forward shoulder adjustment but wonder if that’s what this is showing - but I’ll wait to assess. At the sides, it looked like a very big gap was needed! Again, it was difficult to judge because as we all recognise, it’s easier to make smaller than bigger. I added an additional inch to each side seam on the pattern and cut the sleeve down by one size at the armscyes only, leaving the larger amount in place at the seam between upper and lower sleeve. The sleeves are fine, but I decided I really need to try on a toile with more space at the sides, so I plan to add extra fabric there to get a better idea of the exact amount required and I’ll insert the sleeves to see if they work It was too dark and miserable to get any photos. I didn't achieve any of me wearing tissue or toile at any stage. Showing the extra added at the side seams. Not ideal, I know, but I thought this was the fastest means to the end I added a ‘chunk’ of fabric to the side seam of back and front bodice of the blouse. I then sewed up again (long stitch) at the original seam line and tried on. David helped me as I took the side seams apart to pin in the right place. David is the first to admit that he doesn’t have much idea about this and the amounts turned out very uneven. However, we both noted that there was insufficient room in the bust area - the fabric was somewhat taut across the front - the trampoline effect. I clearly needed more bust space. I wondered if this was related to the front cutting line issue. Indeed, I noticed that the front band seemed to be rather curved. I also wondered if it could be related to just a straight piece of cloth being added at the side seams. This is showing the markedly curved front band - it is completely unpicked at the sides so this is not due to it being tight. I laid out the paper pattern with its alterations and noticed that it was less flat/more puckered than it should have been and that the front cutting line was definitely not straight despite our previous trimming. I decided in effect to re-do the FBA or at least, in part. I cut up the line through the dart to the bust apex. And cut through the centre of the bust dart to the apex. I then straightened the centre cutting line - this meant that a large gap opened up from the hem to the apex and the insertion for length was wedge shaped rather than parallel. I decided to move the side portion in to the same distance as before - this left the bust dart wider - which I need. Showing the original FBA and the extra from the modification I won’t need to alter the front band (though I need to check that it is straight!) as the front seam length is unaltered. I noticed that this was now a little longer than the centre portion but decided to redraw the hem to compensate. I noticed when trying on that the back neckline was climbing up my neck (this hadn’t been the case in tissue) and that the shoulder seam line was very far forward. In the past with other patterns, I’ve had to add extra length to the front at the neckline, but not at the armhole, where the shoulder seamline was relatively centred. So I added a wedge adjustment of ½” at the neckline, tapering to zero at the armhole edge. I also added on a ⅜” in case seam allowance. I subtracted the same amount from the back and again added the ⅜” in case seam allowance. I believe this is in fact 'opposite' to what is required in a forward shoulder? I'm not sure how to describe this alteration. Yes I do know! One to suit my shoulder. Rory doesn't like terms like these - she says it makes people over conscious of their body 'flaws' rather than just fitting to suit their body. I hope I'm not misquoting her! This shows the shortening of the back shoulder seam I lengthened the front shoulder seam by the same amount I also shortened the side bust dart as it appeared to be too close to my apex on the toile. I realise that could change with the other changes made to the pattern. I also thought the vertical dart was too long, again too close to my apex. I then drew the pattern onto pattern paper, adding the average of the amounts David measured (I marked where the pins were) - this was fairly close to what Lyn had suggested from the toile - and then added a further ⅜” to give an ‘in-case’ amount for playing with. I feel that there are enough changes here to merit another toile. I haven’t tried the modified sleeve (I’ve only sewn one so far) in the modified armhole yet. I think I am not too far away from doing my blouse in fabric. Overall, I’m pleased with my progress on this blouse. I need to decide on fabric and which view I plan to make in it. My conclusions re Tissue Fitting I have come to some conclusions re tissue fitting: Disadvantages The original tissue is used (tracing out and marking all the adjustment lines would take an age). I like to preserve the pattern in its original condition. Marking all the seam allowances and then taping up to those seam lines, in the seam allowance, is slow work. Once the tissue is cut - e.g. the neckline and armhole seam are snipped to the tape - it is more difficult to get a smooth line to cut around. You only work on half the body You have to try on, then change, then try on etc. Not feasible in the classroom situation. I feel that it would be more difficult to ‘preserve’ the pattern once cut. As shown by my inaccuracies, it is difficult, particularly in a very limited space to lay out, smooth, ensure the alterations are correct, pin on place and then tape as suggested. It means that if you are asymmetrical, buying 2 patterns (not feasible in the UK with the cost of patterns - although this one was ‘free’, to buy another is quite pricey. We don’t get the super sales there are in the US). This is one of the reasons I usually trace (not always) as I like to preserve the pattern in its original condition. After tissue fitting, it’s recommended that the fashion fabric is used to make the ‘final tweaks’ - while this might in any case be needed after making a toile as the fabric properties are different, I’m reluctant to work too much with the fashion fabric - I already make too many mistakes and have to unpick etc. So, overall, I found it slow, rather difficult, it fails to preserve the original pattern tissue - and I felt I needed to make a full body piece as I am a bit asymmetrical. Advantages? Hmmm. Perhaps as a quick overall check, this is fine. Do you like tissue fitting? I still like the book, though! Wish me luck with the next (and most definitely final) toile. I’ll be using a fabric closer to the fashion fabric as I realised that this calico was a little thicker than ideal.

Butterfly Meadow - hand embroidery PDF pattern. An easy to embroider botanical pattern. Great for beginners and avid embroiderers. What botanicals will you stitch? - Pink clovers - Gorgeous yellow goldenrod - Queen Anne's lace - St. John's Wort - White sweet clover - Grass stalks - Insects such as three orange butterflies and two cute ants This listing contains 3 PDF files: The PDF pattern; the stitch guide that will teach you all stitches to complete this project and CornellyCo flyer. What will you find in the PDF pattern? - 1 design size to print and transfer: for a 6.5 inch round hoop - Close-up photos of the finished artwork for reference while embroidering - A description of the needed materials - All the colors and stitches for each of the flower's/insects' parts are clearly pointed out in the pattern. - All DMC color numbers Hoop size recommended is 6.5 inch (~ 16.5 cm). This is a digital download — nothing will be mailed to you. Use this pattern to make shirts, pillow cases, bags, your imagination is the limit, get creative! This is for personal use only. Please do not redistribute. It takes a long time to create and I hope you encourage others to purchase the pattern for themselves. Thank you very much! Justyna from CornellyCo

Chuẩn bị anne shirley doll crochet pattern

Completed in 2019 in Sauland, Norway. Images by Wolfgang Thaler, Anne Bratveit. PPAG Architects has developed around 30 school projects, and have become experts in educational buildings. The construction of a small secondary...

Pour les fêtes, misez sur des pâtes fraîches faites maison! Recette vegan sans oeuf. Avec des champignons ou une poêlée de légumes au choix.

Size : a (b) c (d) e (f) g (h). Your bust circumference : 80 (90) 100 (110) 120 (130) 140 (150) cm. Full length, measured CF below the neckline : 50 (52) 54 (56) 58 (60) 62 (64) cm. Positive ease : This blouse has a wide positive ease, beginning from the upper part of the yoke and downwards. The positive ease is at 30-40 cm, depending on your bust circumference - this is to secure the wide and airy fit, which is characteristic for the design. When you’re deciding which size to knit, choose the one which corresponds to your own actual bust circumference. Gauge : 16 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch at needle size 6 mm. Needle size : Circular needles 5,5 + 6 mm ( 40 / 60 / 80 cm). Yarn : The blouse is knitted with 3 threads in 2 types of yarn held together. 1st thread: Merino, G-uld (210 m pr 50g). 2nd + 3rd thread: Soft Silk Mohair, Knitting For Olive (225 m pr 25g). Amount : 1st thread: 250 (250) 300 (350) 400 (450) 500 (500)g. 2nd + 3rd thread: 250 (250) 300 (350) 400 (450) 500 (500)g. Work : The blouse is knitted in the round in Stockinette Stitch, from the top and downwards. The first part of yoke is knitted in Twisted rib stitch and is shaped by using the technique German Short Rows. Following, is a laced ruffle with picot edging which completes the detailed part of the yoke. To give the blouse its airy and draped effect, double increases are then made at the upper part of the yoke. The remaining part of yoke, as well as body, is then worked in the round until reaching the bottom edge, where a finishing i-cord is knitted. The puffy sleeves are shaped by rounds of increasing and decreasing and is finished with the same laced pattern and picot edge as seen on the ruffle at the yoke section.

Students will love learning about Anne Frank as they complete this fun companion activity to the Who Was biography book series. The Google Slides™ are perfect for keeping information organized, and at the end students will have a finished project they could present to the class. ✨Save money by purchasing this resource in one of the following bundles: Digital Who Was Biography Series Bundle Women's History Digital Who Was Biography Series Bundle Digital Who Was Biography Series World History Bundle Students can use the Who Was book series to complete the prompts, or they can also research information using the list of suggested websites that I've included in the teacher directions. This product includes space for students to research information related to each person's: Lifespan Childhood Where they're from Important people in their life Education Career Personal characteristics Accomplishments Challenges they faced How they overcame challenges Lessons we can learn from them Things you may not know Quote(s) Timeline of life events Resources to learn more You may also be interested in: Who Was Biography Series Graphic Organizer Bundle Who Was Biography Series Trifold Brochure Bundle Who Was Biography Series Digital Graphic Organizer Bundle Who Was Biography Series Digital Trifold Brochure Bundle Click here to follow me and be the first to hear about new products, sales, and special promotions. For additional resources, be sure to check out my store! Katie Loftin Dr. Loftin's Learning Emporium Instagram Facebook Pinterest

in charlevoix, an eastern region of the quebec province, cargo architecture has completed a spacious dwelling capable of accommodating up to 14 guests.

An introductory guide to corset making by Julia Bremble

Another very special pattern designed by Andrea Yetman, combining her love of arisanal yarns and designing stylish knitting patterns. This pattern is available free of charge thanks to Biscotte Yarns and Louise Robert Design ''Andrea’s Tee was inspired by the yarn! I love an over sized drop shoulder construction, lace and Garter Stitch; so it was very clear what I wanted to knit with this beautiful yarn. This is a relaxing knit with just enough detail to keep you engaged! This is a great transition tee to wear between seasons.'' - Andrea Yetman   YARN Collection Louise Robert Design – DK PURE | 238m / 260yds / 90% superwash merino and 10% silk. Sample is knit in colorway Andrea 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins NEEDLES Main Fabric - 4.5mm (US#7) circular needles of at least 75 cm (30”) and preferred needles for small circumference knitting (or size needed to obtain gauge) Ribbing – 4mm (US#6) circular needles of at least 75 cm (30”) and preferred needles for small circumference knitting ACCESSORIES Tapestry needle stitch holder or yarn of contrasting color stitch markers row counter GAUGE 22 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches; 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) / 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44)/ FINISHED BUST: 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52) inches This tee is knit top down starting with the back and then picking up stitches in the cast on edge of the back for the front. There is a little short row shaping for the neckline and for the hem. The tee is joined to knit in the round after the front and back pieces are the desired length. After the tee is knit there is no need to pick up stitches for the neckline or the cuffs of the sleeve. Once casting off at the hem the tee is complete!! Andrea’s Tee is meant to be worn with 8 – 10 inches of positive ease. This pattern is available as a PDF numeric file. Simply add it to your cart and place a $0 order and you will get a link to download your pattern by email. Enjoy!

-This is digital item(downladble pattern)not finished doll - You will see the download link in the details of your order immediately.After your payment,the file is ready to download -Crochet level: intermediate and above. -Finished doll is 6 cm height - Pdf files includes detailed instructions with many pictures of the doll and clothes. This pattern is for personal use only. It is prohibited to copy, translate or distribute, re-selling the pattern and the contents of this document in any way. Refund and Cancel order policy: Because these are digital files, once the order is completed, I DO NOT accept any cancelation or refund.

Size: a (b) c. Your head circumference: 54-56 (56-58) 58-60 cm. Gauge: 19 sts x 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch at needle size 4,5 mm. Needle size: Circular needles 4 + 4,5 mm (the lengths 40 and 60 cm are recommended). Yarn: The beret is knitted with 2 strands of yarn held together: 1. thread: “Double Sunday”, Sandnes (108 m per 50 g). 2. thread: “Tilia”, Filcolana (210 m per 25 g). Yarn amount: 1. thread: 100 g in all sizes. 2. thread: 25 g in all sizes. Process: The beret is knitted bottom-up in the round, and is shaped by a series of in- and decreases. To complete its edge, an i-cord band is knitted onto the border of the beret, and a bow tied with its strings.

L'automne arrive à point ! Pourquoi ne pas le souligner avec ce projet d'art aborigène ?Les Aborigènes représentent souvent des kangourous, des serpents, des lézards et beaucoup de symboles.Dans ce projet, notre thème sera la feuille d'automne. C'est une belle façon de travailler les couleurs chaude...

This is the time of year when I am madly knitting teddies for a couple of charities I support. Have you knitted a teddy? If you know how to cast on, knit, purl and cast off you are ready to start... If you don't know how to knit, there are many books and Youtube video clips that can help you learn. The first pattern I will share with you uses 8 ply yarn and 4mm knitting needles. The teddy is made in stocking stitch - one row knit, the next row purl. You will cast on at the feet and cast off at the top of the head. I vary the colours for the different parts, but you could do it in one colour too. 1. Feet: Cast on 32 stitches, using skin colour. Complete 4 rows in stocking stitch (1 row knit, next row purl) 2. Trousers: Change colour. Complete 16 rows stocking stitch. 3. Belt: Change colour and knit 2 rows. 4. Top: Change colour. Complete 13 rows stocking stitch. Note: I have knitted top in stripes but one colour works well too. Next row decrease for neck – Purl 3, P2 tog, P6, P2 tog, P6, P2 tog, P6, P2 tog, P3. 5. Head: Change colour. Complete 14 rows in stocking stitch. Cast off. Now that your teddy is knitted, I'll give you some help turning it into a loveable toy. Join the side edges together at the centre back. I do this on the wrong side and use a running stitch. If you have used different colours, you may need to stitch each section with the correct colour. You should now have a tube. Make sure that the seam you have just sewn is running down the centre. Then stitch the head closed across the top. Turn your teddy so that the right side is on the outside. The right side is the smooth side of your knitting. Stuff with NEW polyester filling. I buy the hobby filling (from Spotlight, Lincraft, Big W or Daiso), but I know other people use new pillows (Twin pillow packs are sometimes cheaper) Making sure the seam at the back is still in the centre, close the feet. I usually do this from the centre out to each side. Make the legs by joining the front to the back, starting at the feet and finishing 4 rows below the waist. I try to run the stitching along the same stitch of my knitting to keep the legs an even size. The tighter you pull this running stitch (or back stitch), the more the leg separation will show. Give your bear 2 arms the same way. Start at the waist and finish 3 rows before head starts. I usually place the arms 3 stitches in from each side and keep the needle going straight through to the back. To define the neck a bit more, run a row of yarn through the first row of knitting for the head. Pull it in slightly and knot the ends to prevent it coming loose. Thread ends into body. Now for some ears. Pinch the top corner of the head and stitch across the it to make an ear. Repeat on the other side for the second ear. I use black or brown yarn for the features. Come in from the back of the head for the first eye (to stop the yarn being pulled out, you can put a small knot in the end - pull it into the bear but not through to the front) I usually give each eye 2 lines in the same knit spaces. To move to the other eye put your needle through some stuffing to hide the wool shadow (if teddy is in pale colours). I leave 2 knitted stitches between the eyes. Bring your yarn up between the 2 eyes for the nose. Stitch 3 lines in the same spaces for the nose - I usually do a central one, then one on each side of this. Make the mouth the same size on each side of the nose. Take your yarn through to the back of the head and make a knot before cutting off excess yarn. Your teddy is now ready to be loved. Depending on where it will be used, you may want to trim it with a ribbon bow at the neck. However, as this one is going to babies it can't have any ribbon ties. Well I hope this inspires you to try knitting a teddy. When you tire of the plain ones, try doing stripes or varying the stitches - I've done some with moss stitch tops. (K1, P1 across row, then start the next row with the stitch you finished the last row on - for this bear the second row is P1, K1)

8-week online workshop with Céline Barbeau The Robinia Light by Anne Ventzel is a beautiful contemporary sweater with a very interesting construction. The Robinia Light is knitted in the round with a very graphic jacquard. In this course, Céline will accompany you step-by-step at each stage. The techniques covered using the sweater will be: The 2-handed jacquard Knitting in the round Shortened rows Reading a pattern Finishes When ? This workshop is broken down into 8 lessons of approximately 1 hour. This course is available in replay and you can watch it as many times as you want. How ? The course takes place on a private YouTube channel. You will receive a download link to obtain the full playlist Materials needed to follow the course The pattern is not provided in the course. In order to follow it, it is necessary to purchase it beforehand on Anne Ventzel's website here: CLICK Needles needed A pair of circular needles: 3 mm in 80 cm and 3.5 mm in 40 and 80 cm. We recommend our Chiaogoo needles: CLIC A wool needle: CLICK A set of 5 marker rings: CLIC The recommended wool is DK wool for a sample of 23 stitches per 20 cm. We offer the option of the course with wool for pre-order and available in July.

Put some imagination—and recycled products—to good use in your landscape with inventive DIY garden edging.

handmade gDiaper cloth insert tutorial, learn how to sew a gdiaper cloth insert with a free pattern download! free gdiaper insert tutorial

Pretty and light - Simply Pink Newborn Hat free crochet pattern.

This is a cross stitch pattern leaflet only. It is not a kit or a completed project. The leaflet is from 1985 by Anne Van Wagner Childs. It has 3 pages with 20 alphabet patterns. It has some shelf wear but overall it is in fair used condition. CONDITION ISSUE: The leaflet is slightly rumpled from age and prior use. It will be shipped media mail USPS with tracking in a rigid mailer. First class international outside the US. Find more cross stitch books and patterns here! https://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedANeedle?section_id=13814411&ref=shopsection_leftnav_2 Want more? Check out my store front for more crafty categories and many more projects! https://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedANeedle?ref=hdr_shop_menu

Free crochet pillow cover pattern using the richly textured alpine stitch is below. Learn the front post double crochet stitch with the video tutorial.

Gorgeous Doily The doily crochet pattern / diagram … Gorgeous round lace doily

finished measurements: Bust: 32 3?4 (36 1?4, 40 1?2, 44 3?4, 48 3?4, 54)“ / 83 (92, 103, 113.5, 124, 137) cm Length: 24 1?4 (24 3?4, 25 1?2, 25 3?4, 26 1?2, 27)” / 61.5 (63, 65, 65.5, 67.5, 68.5) cm Shown in size 36 1?4” / 92 cm. Intended to be worn with 2–4” / 5–10 cm ease. suggested yarn: Hikoo Kenzie (160 yd / 146 m per 1 3?4 oz / 50 g skein; 50% New Zealand Merino, 25% Nylon, 10% Angora, 10% Alpaca, 5% Silk Noils): 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) skeins in 1018 Seal (MC) 1 skein in 1005 Bayberry (CC) needles: Size 7 US / 4.5 mm circular needle, 24–48” / 60–120 cm long, depending on bust size Size 7 US / 4.5 mm needles in preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round Size 4 US / 3.5 mm circular needle, 24–48” / 60–120 cm long, depending on bust size Size 4 US / 3.5 mm needles in preferred style for small circumference knitting in the round notions: Stitch markers, cable needle, stitch holders, tapestry needle gauge: 19 sts and 28 rows = 4” / 10 cm in Stockinette stitch, using larger needles 19 sts and 28 rows = 4” / 10 cm in One- color Brioche, using smaller needles Tip: Swatch in Stockinette stitch first. Once you get gauge in stockinette stitch, go down a few needle sizes and swatch in brioche, keep trying needle sizes until you get a brioche gauge that matches your stockinette stitch. notes: Helenium is worked in the round from the bottom up, beginning with a provisional cast-on. First the Sleeves are worked to the underarm then placed on stitch holders. Next the Body is worked to the underarm. Then the Sleeves are joined to the Body and the Yoke is worked. After the sweater is complete, the live stitches of the cuff and hem are finished with an attached i-cord. The brioche pattern is presented in chart form only. Errata: 09.12.17 Original version 11.16.17 Page 1 single pattern / page 26 ebook - In the middle column under Sleeves AND in the right column under Body, rnds 1 and 2 have been revised. They now read: Rnd 1: * Sl1yof, brp1; rep from * to end. Rnd 2: * Brk1, yfsl1yo; rep from * to end. Page 4 single pattern / page 29 ebook - In the left column, the 7th line under Begin Yoke Chart now reads: “rnd, * yfsl1yo, brk1 3 times, yfsl1yo, brRsl…”

This no prep, copy-and-go biography study and project is an opportunity for your students to dive deep into the biography Who Was Anne Frank? by Ann Abramson, then demonstrate their learning and understanding by completing a creative poster project. This is the PDF format of the biography study and project. The DIGITAL format can be found HERE. This purchase includes: A biography study journal (for each chapter, there is space for students to track their thinking as they read, a vocabulary four-square, a table to track important dates and events, and space to identify a character trait along with evidence from the text) Poster Project components (including a title strip, a page for key vocabulary, a page for character traits, a page for interesting facts, and a timeline) Directions and a photo for assembling the poster project A rubric to grade completed projects This biography study and project is the perfect way to immerse students in an enjoyable, interactive biography exploration. Please note that the text is NOT included in this download. The text may be found at a bookstore or library. All pictures courtesy of www.pixabay.com Please check out the preview before purchasing and enjoying! You may be interested in other famous women Biography Studies & Projects: Who Is Sonia Sotomayor? Biography Study & Project (PDF Format) Who Was Helen Keller? Biography Study & Project (PDF Format) Who Was Sally Ride? Biography Study & Project (PDF Format) Who Was Rosa Parks? Biography Study & Project (PDF Format) Who Was Sojourner Truth? Biography Study & Project (PDF Format)

Style No. 58427527; Color Code: 027 Sold individually Hanging hardware required Brass, iron, plastic Imported

Norwegian Folk Art -- Scandinavian design to stencil from Rosemaling Pattern 12 is a great stencil that can be used as a border. It features a beautifully detailed flower design, and is the perfect size for repeating as a decorative border. Parts of the design can be used as motifs. Stencil as shown is completed in multiple colors. This stencil can also be painted in a single color. Stencil image measures 10" x 2.5" *100% Made in the USA since 2005 by our family-owned laser-engraving business. *Uniquely artistic designs that always delight and uplift! We've coordinated designs within categories for creative collages and murals. *Laser-cut on reusable 10 mil Mylar plastic -- safe and durable... perfect for stenciling flat or curved surfaces: walls, clothing, quilt squares, furniture, cakes, or crafts items! *Most paints will work well. Apply with stencil brushes, rollers, sprayers, airbrush equipment, sponges, markers... *FREE NEXT DAY SHIPPING on all USPS domestic 1st Class orders. (Other shipping options available.) For inspiration, see our blog post featuring our Rosemaling stencils, finished stencil projects, and project ideas. The Artful Stencil Blog: "Rosemaling: A Beautiful Traditional Folk Art Form". This stencil is excellent for repeated use. Each stencil is precision laser cut allowing for perfect results.

A kicky lace panel ups the ante on a simple but stylish sweater. Finished Sizes 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44,) (46, 48, 50, 52)“ bust circumference. Pullover shown measures 36”, modeled with 3-4″ positive ease. Yarn The Plucky Knitter Traveler Sport (65% merino, 20% silk, 15% yak; 325 yd /100 g): Ogre 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5,) (6, 6, 6, 6) skeins. Appx 1240 (1300, 1380, 1455, 1530, 1600,) (1675, 1750, 1820, 1895) yds—exact yardage will vary! Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm) 16” and 29” circular (cir) and set of double pointed (dpns) and size 3 (3.25 mm) 29” cir and dpns. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Markers (m); stitch holders/waste yarn; tapestry needle. Gauge 25 sts and 32 rows = 4” in Stockinette Stitch on larger needles; 22 sts and 32 rows = 4” in Lace Pattern on larger needles To save time and ensure proper fit, please take time to check gauge. Notes This pullover is worked from the top down as follows: The back is cast on, shaped with short rows and worked down through the armholes. Then the front shoulders are picked up from the back and worked separately until neck shaping is complete. The fronts are then joined and worked through the armholes. Front and back are then joined and worked in the round with the lace panel added in. Sleeves are picked up, shaped with short rows and worked in the round (they are bracelet length.) Finally, the neckband is picked up and worked. Please note that due to complexity the lace pattern is only available in chart form! Questions? Camaraderie? Join Amy’s group -- Amy Miller Knits

NOTE: This is a digital quilt pattern. You will be able to download it instantly after purchase. The pattern can then be printed or viewed directly from your device. Matrix is a versatile pattern loaded with extras! The pattern includes complete directions for making the cover quilt along with bonus information to inspire your creativity and make it your own. There are so many possibilities with the Matrix pattern, you’ll want to make more than one. * The Design Lesson explains the basic elements of the block, the quilt layout, and tips on fabric selection. * The Design Exploration section illustrates optional ways the pattern can be used to create completely different looking quilts. * A Coloring Page is also included so you can envision Matrix using your own color choices. Matrix is a fat quarter and 2 1/2” strip friendly quilt pattern. The pattern works well with tone-on-tone prints, batiks, and solids. The finished block size is 10” x 10” Finished measurements for quilt sizes included: Baby 40” x 40” Lap 50” x 70” Twin 70” x 90” Queen 90” x 100” Materials: Fabric requirements are given for strips, fat quarters and cut yardage. You will also need: Basic quilting supplies including a rotary cutter, mat and quilter’s ruler. You are welcome to make quilts from the Matrix pattern to sell at handmade markets only. Credit for the design must be given to Anne Deister/SpringLeaf Studios. You may not reproduce, distribute, sell or commercialize the Matrix pattern in any form. Please inquire with the designer about wholesale patterns or large quantities orders for teaching. I hope you enjoy the versatility of the Matrix pattern. Make it your own. Note: Set your printer to landscape format for printing. If you have printing problems try choosing "print as image" in the dialog box. Follow my blog for all the latest pattern and quilting news: www.springleafstudios.com You can also follow me on Intsagram: @springleafstudios