Free crochet pattern and video tutorial for a pudding flan amigurumi, as part of the 2018 Amigurumi Advent Calendar Crochet-Along.

Crochet frog plushies that are soft and fluffy amigurumi. Each frog is handmade crocheted with velvet soft yarn, making each plushie soft as a cloud. Every product I make is made with quality yarn and all new materials. All my products are made with special care and love. With everything prepared in a clean and smoke-free environment! If you have any questions or concerns about this item feel free to message me. All items are carefully packaged so your purchase reaches you without any problem! For more adorable amigurumi plushies visit my page; LovebyLivStudio Don't see anything you're looking for? Want a special creation? Just message me and we can work something out! Thank you for stopping by! Have a wonderful day!

You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE and on LoveCrafts HERE! This beautifully formatted PDF includes ALL the step-by-step photos, graphics and is a total of 9…

EASY CROCHET PATTERN MOTHER'S GIFTS IN PDF FORMAT! This is a listing for the crochet pattern, not the finished toy! LANGUAGES: • English (US terminology) • Spanish • French THIS PATTERN INCLUDES: • a .pdf file with detailed instructions • 29 pages long and has 125 pictures to help you by working. • Instant digital download - ready to download immediately after the payment. You will see the download link in details of your order. MATERIALS: Yarn: Madame Tricote Paris COTTON PERLE 8 (80m/10g). Crochet hook: 1 mm. Safety eyes 8 mm Fiberfill for stuffing SIZE: If you use the same materials as me, the size of a ready toy will be about 3,15 inches (8 cm). If you have any question about this pattern, please feel free to contact me! Thank you very much for visiting my shop! You can familiarize with my other works on the link: https://instagram.com/venelopatoys

CROCHET PATTERN Satu the planet Instant download PDF file / 6 pages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Welcome to the party! Satu is here to celebrate the joy of life bringing us good energy from the universe and the stars. WooHoo good vibes! Is this amigurumi a gift for someone you love? Print the gift tag included on the pattern and hang it on Satu’s hand! Satu the planet is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, using worsted weight yarn (size 4) on a G (4 mm) crochet hook. Skill level: easy · the pattern contains detailed instructions for each round · tips for great results · step-by-step descriptive photo tutorials · detailed photos of all interesting areas This is an easy project to assemble, the body and the Satu’s ring are worked as one piece. Written in American English crochet terms. Happy crocheting! ♥ Gemma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Our shop offers INSTANT DOWNLOAD PATTERNS once your payment has cleared. Etsy will send you an e-mail to your address connected with your etsy account with a link to your patterns. Please write if you have any questions.

​MAMA BAYMAX Baymax, from the Disney movie: BIG HERO 6. “Hello! I am Baymax, your personal healthcare companion.” This is it! The day has come! My heart is so full with all the goo…

Explore today's collection of the most cuddly amigurumi soft crochet toys.These projects will be perfect if you are looking for gift ideas.

The Amigurumi Wiener Dog Pattern - Version 2 is a crochet toy pattern made with medium weight yarn that has a skill level of easy.

**PLEASE NOTE THIS LISTING IS FOR CROCHET PATTERN NOT ACTUAL TOY** This fun pattern makes a crochet amigurumi turtle in one hour! This is such a great pattern if you hate sewing- this is completely no sew! When I started designing this crochet turtle I had three objectives. I wanted it to be a no sew pattern. I know a lot of people don't love the sewing process, so I wanted this to be crochet only! I also wanted this to be a super quick project... My goal was under an hour! Of course, I also wanted to make something that was super cute. I feel like I accomplished the mission! This turtle pattern would be a great pattern if you like to sell what you make. Once you make your first crochet turtle, you will want to make a second! The plush yarn really helps it work up quickly, and you will be under an hour a turtle in no time. While the no sew aspect makes it slightly more complicated, it is super gratifying to see it come together! The only reason you need a needle is to weave in any ends. You make the fins and head first, then as you crochet the shell/body you attach as you go! Even the ridge of the crochet turtle shell is created by working the front loop on one row, then the back loop on the next one! Written using U.S Crochet terms. The pattern is a PDF and you will need Adobe Reader to open it. This program is free to download. You will need to know how to use a magic circle, single crochet and how to increase and invisible decrease. I include instructions for the invisible decrease. You can sell any items made from this pattern in a small capacity. You cannot share, reproduce or copy this pattern for any purpose. Please link back to the pattern and my blog listed below when you are selling finished items whether on Etsy, instagram, facebook, or any other social media or place online. Just respect my rights as the designer, thank you! visit www.thefriendlyredfox.com for more patterns and inspiration! Follow along on instagram https://www.instagram.com/thefriendlyredfox/ and facebook https://www.facebook.com/FriendlyRedFox/ Check out my shop for more patterns and gifts! https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheFriendlyRedFox?ref=hdr_shop_menu

This post contains affliliate links. Meet my giraffe! I've been wanting to design a cutesy, baby shower style giraffe for what feels like forever. I had the idea of exactly what he would look like in my head for so long, I just had to find the perfect yarn and colour selection to bring him to life - and I did! This guy is made in Paintbox Simply Aran, one of my new favourite yarn brands. This yarn was amazing to work with, it's so soft and works up beautifully. Thank you so much to Paintbox & Love Crochet for letting me bring my vision to life with their yarn! There are many similar designs floating around the online world, however my pattern is the only one out there with a rainbow yarn mane and realistic hooves (I think)! I was so happy to put my own Heart & Sew twist on a concept that's been done by, what feels like, every other designer out there. This is a big ami at nearly 16 inches tall (sitting!) but he works up quickly using aran/worsted weight yarn. As always, I am offering this pattern absolutely free. If you would like to thank/support me I'd be grateful if you could follow my blog in some way. Please post your own giraffe pictures on my Facebook page or the Heart & Sew Facebook group - I adore seeing you bring my patterns to life! Peace, love & yarn, Julie xo Copyright 2017 Julie Erskine, All Rights Reserved © Please note: This pattern is property of Heart & Sew. This pattern is not to be redistributed for sale or for free. Text and images contained within this pattern are not authorised to be placed in full or in part on any website, book, magazine, blog or forum. This pattern is not to be translated or altered without expressed written consent. You may however: Post my pictures on your website, blog or forum with a link back to this post. You may not post the pattern or any parts of it. You may however: Sell your own handmade items made from this pattern. The items must be individually handmade on a small scale by you and not mass produced in any way. Credit for the pattern in any online description (eg: "Created using a Heart & Sew Pattern") would be greatly appreciated. You may not claim, directly or indirectly, to be the original designer or author of the pattern. Please see my full disclosure for more details. I have used the Paintbox "Simply Aran" range, which is an acrylic, worsted weight yarn, to make my giraffe. This yarn is only available at Love Crochet, but they ship world wide! Shipping to the USA is $4.95 and free when you spend over $60.00. You can check the exact shipping cost for your country here. I've included all the shade names below. You can read my full review of this yarn here. - 3mm Crochet Hook (I used a Clover Amour hook) - 1 ball of yellow (Banana Cream) - 1 ball of blue (Seafoam Blue) - 1 ball of pink (Candyfloss Pink) - 1 ball of peach (Ballet Pink) - 1 ball of purple (Dusty Rose) - 1 ball of green (Pistachio Green) - Yarn needle - Pair of 10mm Black Safety Eyes - Polyester Toy Stuffing - Scissors - Stitch marker Pssst! Hold down Ctrl and P to print the pattern! Difficulty: Moderate difficulty - Beginners may struggle with all the colour changes. Must know how to work in the round, change from rounds to rows, increase, invisible decrease, chain & change colours. This pattern uses the following U.S stitches & abbreviations: st(s) = stitch(es) sc = single crochet (double crochet for UK) ch = chain 2tog = crochet 2 stitches together (decrease) Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral unless stated otherwise. It is a good idea to use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round (You can use a bent paper clip or hair grip!) My notes, tips and further instructions are in purple italics. Head: Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic Circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (24) Lots of beginners get stuck on round 4. This means 1sc in each of the first 2 stitches, 2sc in the next st (increase). Repeat until the end of the round. The next round is 1sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2sc in next st (increase) etc. Round 5) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (30) Round 6) 4sc, 2sc in next st , repeat until end of round (36) Round 7) 5sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (42) Round 8-14) 1sc in each st, for 8 rounds total (42) Change to blue: Round 15-17) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (42) Change to pink: Round 18-20) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (42) Change to green: Round 21-22) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (42) Round 23) 5sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (36) Attach 10mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19. Mine are spaced roughly 7 stitches apart for your reference. If your giraffe is for a baby or toddler I do not advise using safety eyes, as they are not always safe - despite the name! It's much safer to embroider eyes with black embroidery thread (How about a sleepy eyed giraffe?) Top tip: Keep the "jog" from the colour changes to the underside of the head when attaching/embroidering eyes. When the head is sewed to the body the colour changes will be hidden underneath for seemingly perfect stripes! Change to peach: Round 24) 1sc in each st (36) Round 25) 4sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (30) Round 26) 3sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (24) Change to purple: Round 27) 2sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (18) Round 28) 1sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (12) Round 29) 2tog all the way around (6) Slip stitch into next st and fasten off leaving a long yarn tail. Weave tail in and out the front loops of the remaining 6 sts and pull tight to close. Knot yarn to secure and hide yarn tail inside the head. Ears (Make 2): In purple: Round 1) Magic circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Round 4-9) 1sc in each st, for 6 rounds total (18) Round 10) 1sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (12) Round 11-12) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (12) Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff ears. Horns (Make 2): In yellow yarn: Round 1) Magic circle with 8sc (8) Round 2) 2sc in each st (16) Round 3-7) 1sc in each st, for 5 rounds total (16) Round 8) 1sc then 2tog, repeat 4 times then 2tog twice (10) Round 9-12) 1sc in each st, for 4 rounds total (10) Slip stitch into next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff horns. Body: Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Change to blue: Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (24) Round 5) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (30) Round 6) 4sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (36) Change to pink: Round 7) 5sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (42) Round 8) 6sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (48) Round 9) 7sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (54) Change to green: Round 10-12) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to peach: Round 13-15) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to purple: Round 16-18) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to yellow: Round 19-21) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to blue: Round 22-24) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to pink: Round 25) 7sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (48) Round 26-27) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (48) Change to green: Round 28) 1sc in each st (48) Round 29) 6sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (42) Round 30) 1sc in each st (42) Change to peach: Round 31-32) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (42) Round 33) 5sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (36) Start stuffing the body, adding a little more stuffing after every few rows as you crochet. Change to purple: Round 34) 1sc in each st (36) Round 35) 4sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (30) Round 36) 1sc in each st (30) It's important we keep the colour changes at the back of our giraffe. Because the body piece is so big and the neck is so narrow, eventually the colour changes at the start of the round will creep round to the sides and front of the neck. To keep them at the back we will do the first 5 stitches of the next colour change round in the previous rounds colour before we change colour. Do this for every colour change in the neck! So: In purple for the first 5 stitches, then change to yellow: Round 37) 3sc then 2tog (then change to yellow!) repeat until end of round (24) Round 38-39) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (24) Change to blue: Round 40-42) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to pink: Round 43-45) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to green: Round 46-48) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to peach: Round 49-51) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to purple: Round 52-54) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to yellow: Round 55) 1sc in each st (24) Now we change from working in rounds, to working in rows! This is so we can easily sew our giraffe head on at a downwards angle. Row 1) 1sc in each of the next 18 sts, ch 1, turn Row 2) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 16 sts, ch 1, turn Change to blue: Row 3) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 14 sts, ch 1, turn Row 4) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 12 sts, ch 1, turn Row 5) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 10 sts Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body & neck. When you sew the head to the neck: You may have trouble stuffing the very top of the neck fully. To combat this start sewing the head in place leaving the very top of the neck free of stuffing. Before you sew all the way around to secure the neck, stop sewing and stuff the rest of the neck through the remaining hole until you are happy! Continue sewing to close the hole. Arms (Make 2): Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic circle with 7sc (7) Round 2) 2sc in each st (14) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (21) Round 4) Back loop only: 1sc in each st (21) Round 5-6) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (21) Round 7) 1sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (14) From now on we will change colours every 3 rounds. Starting in blue, then pink, green, peach, purple, yellow, and finally blue. Change to blue: Round 8-28) 1sc in each st, for 21 rounds total (14) Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff arms. The bottom of the yellow hoof should be completely flat so don't over stuff his hoof! Legs (Make 2): Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (24) Round 5) Back loop only: 1sc in each st (24) Round 6-7) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (24) Round 8) 2sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (18) From now on we will change colours every 3 rows. Starting in blue, then pink, green, peach, purple, yellow, blue, pink and finally green. Change to blue: Round 9-35) 1sc in each st, for 27 rounds total (18) Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff legs. The bottom of the yellow hoof should be completely flat so don't over stuff his hoof! The following is the easiest order I have found to sew your ami together. Top tip: Keep colour changes to the back of your giraffe, for seemingly perfect strips! 1. Sew the horns to the head. They should stand up completely straight at the top of the head. 2. Sew the ears at either side of the head. They should stick out almost completely horizontally from the side of the head. 3. Sew the head to the neck. The head is sewn on at a downwards angle, the back of the head should sit almost ontop of the blue rows at the top of the neck. The back of the head should line up perfectly with the back of the neck and not stick out past the neck. When you sew the head to the neck: You may have trouble stuffing the very top of the neck fully. To combat this start sewing the head in place leaving the very top of the neck free of stuffing. Before you sew all the way around to secure the neck, stop sewing and stuff the rest of the neck through the remaining hole until you are happy! Continue sewing to close the hole. 4. Sew the arms to the body. The are sewn to the top of the last purple round just before the neck starts. 5. Decide whether you want your giraffe to sit or stand and sew the legs in place accordingly. Now your giraffe is sewn together all we have to do is shape the hooves and attach the mane. Please see the instructions for these steps below. Shaping The Hooves The hooves are created by tying a length of yarn around the front of the foot. Use this same technique for both the arms and the legs. 1. Take a long length of yellow yarn on your yarn needle. Insert needle through the middle of the magic circle on the bottom of the foot and bring yarn out again in the middle of the second last yellow row of the hoof. Important: Leave a decent length of the end of your yarn sticking out the bottom of the magic circle! 2. Take that same length of yarn through the foot again the exact same way at the exact same holes/places as step one. 3. You should have 2 yarn tails sticking out of the hoof now. One coming from the magic circle and one at the top of the hoof. Take these 2 yarn tails and pull them as tight as you can to shape the hoof! 4. Once you have the hoof the shape you desire tie the two yarn tails together in a knot to secure the shape. Hide the left over yarn tails inside your giraffe using the yarn needle. Attaching The Mane Attaching the mane is simple although a little time consuming! We are going to attach 3 rows of yarn in each sections matching colour. 1. To create yarn pieces of all the same length, hold your hand as if you were going to shake someones hand. Wrap desired colour of yarn around the 4 fingers of your hand (excluding the thumb) roughly 20 times. More yarn can be made later if you don't make enough, try not to waste precious yarn! 2. Slip the whole loop of yarn off your hand and cut once at the top of the loop through every strand. You should now have several strands of yarn all roughly the same size. 3. Insert hook into stitch in the neck you would like to attach yarn to. Your hook should be pointing down towards the bottom of your giraffe with the handle pointing to the top of his head as pictured. It is a good idea to start from the top of the giraffes head, between his horns, and work downwards. 4. Folding the strand in half, pull the strand through the stitch at the centre point to create a loop. Try to keep both ends of the strand the same length as you do this. 5. Pull both ends of the strand through the loop created and pull as tight at you can to secure strand to the neck. 6. Repeat step 5 in the stitch directly next to your existing hair strand. Your giraffe will look better if you keep the strands in neat rows, with the same number of hair strands in every row. 7. Keep attaching hair all the way down to the bottom of the neck changing colours as the neck does. 8. Once all hair is attached, trim to the desired length. Cut all strands the exact same length and remember - giraffe's have short manes! ♥ And that my dear friends, concludes another Heart & Sew pattern. I hope you enjoyed making your own giraffe and will be following along for my next free crochet pattern! Peace, love & yarn, Julie xo Facebook • Instagram • Pinterest

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Most of my inspirations to make amigurumis come from Pinterest and Instagram. Recently, i've been seeing kawaii potatoes everywhere and can't seem to get it off my mind. I tried making an ami version of them with different expressions and happy with the way they turned out. It's a perfect project for beginners as you don't have to attach any pieces and very less sewing involved. Materials needed: Yarn in light beige colour Crochet hook according to the size of your yarn. Tapestry needle. A little bit of brown and pink felt. Safety eyes ( I have used 5 mm safety eyes). Black thread (for embroidering mouth and eyebrows). Stitches used: This pattern is written in US English terms. ch - chain. sc - single crochet. rep ** - repeat stitches between **. Instructions: Using beige color yarn, R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) R2: 2sc in each st (12) R3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*, rep **(18) R4: *sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st*, rep ** (24) R5: *sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st*, rep ** (30) R6-10: sc in each stitch (30) R11: *sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st*, rep ** (36) R12-13: sc in each stitch (36) R14: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st*, rep ** (42) R15-17: sc in each stitch (42) If using safety eyes, insert them between R10 and R11 with an interspace of 4 stitches. R18: *sc in next 5 st, 1 dec in next st*, rep ** (36) R19: *sc in next 4 st, 1 dec in next st*, rep** (30) R20: *sc in next 3 st, 1 dec in next st*, rep** (24) R21: *sc in next 2 st, 1 dec in next st*, rep** (18) Start stuffing the potato with fibrefill. R22: *sc in next st, 1 dec in next st*, rep** (12) R23: sc dec all around (6) Stuff firmly. Fasten off and weave in the end. Assembling: Cut small circles of brown felt and glue them to the potato. With black thread, embroider the mouth and eyebrows. Add a little blush using pink felt. And your kawaii potato is ready! I have used angry, sad and happy expressions on my potato. You can add many more cute expressions to yours. Hope you'll enjoy making this little Potato. Have a wonderful day :)

These 22 fruit and vegetable crochet patterns are perfect for those who want to celebrate healthy eating or the beauty of nature's foods.

Add a tropical twist to your accessories with our free Amigurumi Pineapple Keychain Crochet Pattern! This amigurumi toy design brings a burst of summer vibes to your everyday carry.

Please meet the Willy-Nilly Silly Snake. For those of you who are just starting to crochet and are interested in doing amigurumi, I've writ...

Hello amigurumi lovers and beautiful visitors, I wanted to share the free amigurumi patterns for you here. In

Here is my free pattern for my Toothless amigurumi -- while I designed and created everything in this photo, the instructions for the wings and tail fins that I post here were finalized by other people who kindly allowed me to share them, as I felt they worked better than mine, and the tail is a free pattern from another crochet blog, credited below. Please feel free to make as many Toothlesses for yourself or for your friends as you like, I only ask that you PLEASE do not produce these to sell for profit on sites like Etsy, or claim/sell the pattern as your own, since I worked very hard on this to share for free and because some parts of the pattern are kindly provided by people other than myself. Thank you for understanding! THE PATTERN! I used worsted weight yarn and a size F/3.75 mm hook. I was able to make all the pieces with 1 skein of Vanna's Choice yarn. Important: in the instructions for the body, when I say "inc 2," I mean single crochet 3 into the same single crochet, so you are essentially increasing by two stitches in the same stitch instead of one. Body: R1. MR (6) R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12) R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18) R4. (Sc 2, inc 1) 6 times around (24) R5. (Sc 3, inc 1) 6 times around (30) R6. (Sc 4, inc 1) 6 times around (36) R7-8. Sc around R9. Sc 12, dec 6, sc 12 (this is what shapes Toothless's butt) (30) R10. Sc around R11. (Sc 3, dec 1) 6 times around (24) R12-13. Sc around R14. (Sc 4, dec 1) 4 times around (20) R15. Sc around R16. (Sc 3, dec 1) 4 times around (16) Fasten off, you don't need to leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body. Head: R1. MR (6) R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12) R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18) R4. (Sc 2, inc 1) 6 times around (24) R5. (Sc 3, inc 1) 6 times around (30) R6. (Sc 4, inc 1) 6 times around (36) R7. Sc around R8. (Sc 5, inc 1) 6 times around (42) R9. (Sc 6, inc 1) 6 times around (48) R10-11. Sc around R12. Sc 23, inc 2 in next 2 sc, sc 23 (52) R13. Sc around R14. Sc 25, inc regularly in the next 2 sc, sc 25. (54) R15. (Sc 7, dec 1) 6 times around (48) R16. (Sc 6, dec 1) 6 times around (42) R17. (Sc 5, dec 1) 6 times around (36) R18. (Sc 4, dec 1) 6 times around (30) R19. (Sc 3, dec 1) 6 times around (24) R20. (Sc 4, dec 1) 4 times around (20) R21. (Sc 3, dec 1) 4 times around (16) R22. Sc around Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing, then stuff the head. When you stuff the head, you will need to do a lot of shaping. The increases in rounds 12 and 14 give Toothless a bit of a point in the front of his face, but until you stuff and shape the head it looks pretty weird. I usually put more stuffing in the back of his head, a bit less in the front, but enough in the point of his "snout" so that it's clearly there. I like to sew the body and the head together at this point. He has a thin little neck so I usually skewer him from head to bottom with a long knitting needle, it keeps everything in place. *Toes: To make a toe, HDC 5 in the same st. When you finish the fifth HDC, remove your hook from the loop, loosen the loop, reinsert your hook into the first HDC, grab the loop you dropped and pull it through the first HDC, like a slip stitch, then continue your round. Front legs (make 2): R1. MR (6) R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12) R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18) R4. In BLO (except for the toes), sc 4, (Make toe*, sc 2) until you have 4 toes with 2 sc's between each, sc 4. R5. Sc around. You should still have 18 st. The toes take up a lot of space and sometimes obscure stitches, especially the stitch right before the toe, so those are easy to miss. If you have trouble seeing it, just pull the toe to the left and you should be able to find it. R6. (Sc 7, dec 1) 2 times around (16) R7. Sc around R8. (Sc 6, dec 1) 2 times around (14) R9. (Sc 5, dec 1) 2 times around (12) R10-12. Sc around R13. (Sc 4, dec 1) 2 times around (10) Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Back legs (make 2): R1. MR (6) R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12) R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18) R4. In BLO (except for the toes), sc 4, (Make toe*, sc 2) until you have 4 toes with 2 sc's between each, sc 4. R5. Sc around. R6. (Sc 7, dec 1) 2 times around (16) R7. Sc around R8. (Sc 6, dec 1) 2 times around (14) R9-10. Sc around. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. I prefer to sew the back legs on before the front legs. When I stuff the front legs, I like to stuff the bottoms and leave very little stuffing at the top, so the legs can sit flatter against Toothless's front. I sew all the way around the circumference of the back legs when attaching them to the body, but when attaching the front legs I typically squish the opening and sew the ends together as I sew them on, if that makes sense. It's just another measure to make them more flat. Ears (make 2): R1. MR (6) R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12) R3-4. Sc around R5. (Sc 2, inc 1) 4 times around (16) R6-7. Sc around R8. (Sc 3, inc 1) 4 times around (20) R9-14. Sc around R15. (Sc 3, dec 1) 4 time around (16) R16-17. Sc around Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. You don't need to stuff the ears, just squish them flat and sew them on. Mini-horns (make 6): R1. MR (6) R2. (Sc 1, inc 1) 3 times around (9) R3-5. Sc around Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Two horns go between the ears on the top of the head, and two horns on each side of his head. Tail: I use the instructions from here: http://mygurumi.blogspot.com/2009/08/only-to-show-you-im-still-here-post.html and usually stop at round 15. You can make it shorter or longer if you wish. Wings (courtesy of Stitch Bitch): ch 6, work sc in 2nd ch from hook and the one after it, sc 3 in next ch, sc 1 in each of the next 2 chs; ch1 and turn (7 sc) sc in first 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; ch1 and turn (9 sc) sc in first 4 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; ch4 and turn (11 sc) sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs, sc in next 5 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 3 foundation sc; (19 sc) ch 1, and turn sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts; fasten off (21 sc) Tailfins (courtesy of TacticalGranny) set A (base of tail near body): Make two and attach to center line of tail near the body. Ch 5, work sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3 in next ch, ss to last ch and fasten off. Tailfins set B (end of tail): Make two black, or make one black, one red. Red goes on the left side of tail when the tail is facing you. Row 1: Ch 5, work sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, inc in last ch; ch 1 and turn (5sc) Row 2: sc in first 3sc, sc2tog in last 2 sc. ch 1 and turn. (4sc) Row 3: sc in first 2sc, sc 3 in next sc, ss (slip stitch) to last sc. Place 2 more ss through ends of previous rows to form the curved shape at the end of the fin. Fasten off and attach to tail. Eyes: The acrylic felt that I used for the eyes can be purchased at Michaels, Jo-Ann's, AC Moore or any general craft store. You can find it in the kids craft section with the school craft supplies, pipe cleaners, pom-poms, popsicle sticks, etc. They come in small, individual sheets that cost about 25 cents apiece, so I buy plenty in case I need extra! You can also use real felt if you desire, though I only have experience using the acrylic craft felt. I cut out the general shapes (you can right-click save the image provided at the top of this pattern and print it out and it should print to the correct scale, but it is just as easy to draw it yourself): I use these scissors to cut out my eyes since they are small and precise. I fold the sheet of felt in half and cut out the general shape of the eye, a bit larger than I want it to be so I can cut it down, refine the shape and make the edges nicer. Folding it in half will give you two pieces that are generally the same shape, then you can cut them down and make them look nicer as I stated before. Do the same with the felt for the pupils. Because of the bumpy texture of the crochet, I find that it is easier to use fabric glue to apply the eyes rather than sewing them on. The shape of the eye stays more consistent. I like to use Fabri-tac glue... be advised that it dries quickly and is quite permanent, so be careful when gluing your eyes on.

Need something unique and handmade for a special occasion? This fairy shy unicorn amigurumi can make a great gift! Crochet it with our step-by-step crochet pattern and personalize it with colors, embroidery, or some cute decorations.

Worry pet anxiety stress relief, SET 7 colors Children can carry this soft, pocket-sized pet around and keep them close by to hold or rub when they experience worries or emotional regulation difficulties. The Worry Pet is perfect as a fidget toy for kids with sensory and anxiety needs. The tactile sensation make it an especially helpful coping tool to help students who struggle with social-emotional coping skills. These are not just for worriers, though! Every child will love one because they are oh-so-cute!

Good morning Good Morning! Another Fantasy Friday and I am bursting with excitement to share this amigurumi dragon with you. It’s Toothless! The black dragon from the “How to Train your…

Great ball Pokeball free crochet amigurumi tutorial and pattern - Superball Pokeball modèle gratuit et tutorial de crochet amigurumi Good trainers will tell you : when you wanna catch them all, you never have too many pokeballs !Last time I published a step-by-step free pattern for the basic Pokeball : here is the link I assume that, as motivated trainer, you've made some progress since then, so you should be ready to crochet the Great Ball ! The Great Ball (スーパーボール Super Ball) is a type of Pok

Ikka kevadisemaks... :)

Know a little one with a birthday coming up? Or maybe you’re involved in the local schools and children’s charities? Check out these free amigurumi patterns and crochet toys.There’s an army of adorable crochet friends here that are waiting to be stitched up by you. Make crochet yarn dolls or animals like a crochet elephant.

Strawberry cow🍓

If you're looking for a cute squirrel crochet pattern, pay attention to this little buddy. This amigurumi squirrel is certain to be an endless source of fun.

We have a new addition to our already full house – little Deet! Although he’s tiny, he’s holding his own, even with our two dogs, Daisy and Storm. Storm is pretty keen on the new comer, happily playing with him and following him around the house. Daisy, however, is less than impressed. In fact, she

Here you can find a free crochet pattern for this amigurumi whale! The crochet whale is easy and quick to make, video tutorials in DE and ENG

Please note that this is a amigurumi pattern (PDF file) but not a toy. Files can be downloaded immediately after purchase. This crochet pattern has detailed explanations about how to create Bear & Pig Pattern with photos, many steps and a list of necessary materials. ------------------------------------------- LANGUAGES: English " Bear & Pig Pattern " ------------------------------------------ LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: MEDIUM You must have previous knowledge of of reading diagrams, crochet and the following stitches: CROCHET ch – chain Sl st – slip stitch Sc – single crochet inc – increase (2sc in one st) dec – decrease (2 st together) ------------------------------------------- Let you prepare materials and equipment: Finished size 5-6 inches. - Bear use yarn yellow, red | Pig use yarn light pink, baby pink, brick brown - Crochet needle No. 2/0 (2.00 mm) - synthetic fiber - Button eyes, size 7 m.m. - brown embroidery thread - blush on cheeks ------------------------------------------ If you have any question about this pattern, please feel free to contact me! Thank you very much for visiting my shop!

Need a gift for a birthday party, baby shower or just because? These adorably cute crochet toy patterns are perfect for the job! Any child will love these wonderful crochet toys like bunnies, lambs, monkeys, and whales. They will make a memorable addition to your child's toy collection. Most of these patterns are done as

This post contains affliliate links. Meet my giraffe! I've been wanting to design a cutesy, baby shower style giraffe for what feels like forever. I had the idea of exactly what he would look like in my head for so long, I just had to find the perfect yarn and colour selection to bring him to life - and I did! This guy is made in Paintbox Simply Aran, one of my new favourite yarn brands. This yarn was amazing to work with, it's so soft and works up beautifully. Thank you so much to Paintbox & Love Crochet for letting me bring my vision to life with their yarn! There are many similar designs floating around the online world, however my pattern is the only one out there with a rainbow yarn mane and realistic hooves (I think)! I was so happy to put my own Heart & Sew twist on a concept that's been done by, what feels like, every other designer out there. This is a big ami at nearly 16 inches tall (sitting!) but he works up quickly using aran/worsted weight yarn. As always, I am offering this pattern absolutely free. If you would like to thank/support me I'd be grateful if you could follow my blog in some way. Please post your own giraffe pictures on my Facebook page or the Heart & Sew Facebook group - I adore seeing you bring my patterns to life! Peace, love & yarn, Julie xo Copyright 2017 Julie Erskine, All Rights Reserved © Please note: This pattern is property of Heart & Sew. This pattern is not to be redistributed for sale or for free. Text and images contained within this pattern are not authorised to be placed in full or in part on any website, book, magazine, blog or forum. This pattern is not to be translated or altered without expressed written consent. You may however: Post my pictures on your website, blog or forum with a link back to this post. You may not post the pattern or any parts of it. You may however: Sell your own handmade items made from this pattern. The items must be individually handmade on a small scale by you and not mass produced in any way. Credit for the pattern in any online description (eg: "Created using a Heart & Sew Pattern") would be greatly appreciated. You may not claim, directly or indirectly, to be the original designer or author of the pattern. Please see my full disclosure for more details. I have used the Paintbox "Simply Aran" range, which is an acrylic, worsted weight yarn, to make my giraffe. This yarn is only available at Love Crochet, but they ship world wide! Shipping to the USA is $4.95 and free when you spend over $60.00. You can check the exact shipping cost for your country here. I've included all the shade names below. You can read my full review of this yarn here. - 3mm Crochet Hook (I used a Clover Amour hook) - 1 ball of yellow (Banana Cream) - 1 ball of blue (Seafoam Blue) - 1 ball of pink (Candyfloss Pink) - 1 ball of peach (Ballet Pink) - 1 ball of purple (Dusty Rose) - 1 ball of green (Pistachio Green) - Yarn needle - Pair of 10mm Black Safety Eyes - Polyester Toy Stuffing - Scissors - Stitch marker Pssst! Hold down Ctrl and P to print the pattern! Difficulty: Moderate difficulty - Beginners may struggle with all the colour changes. Must know how to work in the round, change from rounds to rows, increase, invisible decrease, chain & change colours. This pattern uses the following U.S stitches & abbreviations: st(s) = stitch(es) sc = single crochet (double crochet for UK) ch = chain 2tog = crochet 2 stitches together (decrease) Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral unless stated otherwise. It is a good idea to use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round (You can use a bent paper clip or hair grip!) My notes, tips and further instructions are in purple italics. Head: Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic Circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (24) Lots of beginners get stuck on round 4. This means 1sc in each of the first 2 stitches, 2sc in the next st (increase). Repeat until the end of the round. The next round is 1sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2sc in next st (increase) etc. Round 5) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (30) Round 6) 4sc, 2sc in next st , repeat until end of round (36) Round 7) 5sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (42) Round 8-14) 1sc in each st, for 8 rounds total (42) Change to blue: Round 15-17) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (42) Change to pink: Round 18-20) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (42) Change to green: Round 21-22) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (42) Round 23) 5sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (36) Attach 10mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19. Mine are spaced roughly 7 stitches apart for your reference. If your giraffe is for a baby or toddler I do not advise using safety eyes, as they are not always safe - despite the name! It's much safer to embroider eyes with black embroidery thread (How about a sleepy eyed giraffe?) Top tip: Keep the "jog" from the colour changes to the underside of the head when attaching/embroidering eyes. When the head is sewed to the body the colour changes will be hidden underneath for seemingly perfect stripes! Change to peach: Round 24) 1sc in each st (36) Round 25) 4sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (30) Round 26) 3sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (24) Change to purple: Round 27) 2sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (18) Round 28) 1sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (12) Round 29) 2tog all the way around (6) Slip stitch into next st and fasten off leaving a long yarn tail. Weave tail in and out the front loops of the remaining 6 sts and pull tight to close. Knot yarn to secure and hide yarn tail inside the head. Ears (Make 2): In purple: Round 1) Magic circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Round 4-9) 1sc in each st, for 6 rounds total (18) Round 10) 1sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (12) Round 11-12) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (12) Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff ears. Horns (Make 2): In yellow yarn: Round 1) Magic circle with 8sc (8) Round 2) 2sc in each st (16) Round 3-7) 1sc in each st, for 5 rounds total (16) Round 8) 1sc then 2tog, repeat 4 times then 2tog twice (10) Round 9-12) 1sc in each st, for 4 rounds total (10) Slip stitch into next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff horns. Body: Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Change to blue: Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (24) Round 5) 3sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (30) Round 6) 4sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (36) Change to pink: Round 7) 5sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (42) Round 8) 6sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (48) Round 9) 7sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (54) Change to green: Round 10-12) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to peach: Round 13-15) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to purple: Round 16-18) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to yellow: Round 19-21) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to blue: Round 22-24) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (54) Change to pink: Round 25) 7sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (48) Round 26-27) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (48) Change to green: Round 28) 1sc in each st (48) Round 29) 6sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (42) Round 30) 1sc in each st (42) Change to peach: Round 31-32) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (42) Round 33) 5sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (36) Start stuffing the body, adding a little more stuffing after every few rows as you crochet. Change to purple: Round 34) 1sc in each st (36) Round 35) 4sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (30) Round 36) 1sc in each st (30) It's important we keep the colour changes at the back of our giraffe. Because the body piece is so big and the neck is so narrow, eventually the colour changes at the start of the round will creep round to the sides and front of the neck. To keep them at the back we will do the first 5 stitches of the next colour change round in the previous rounds colour before we change colour. Do this for every colour change in the neck! So: In purple for the first 5 stitches, then change to yellow: Round 37) 3sc then 2tog (then change to yellow!) repeat until end of round (24) Round 38-39) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (24) Change to blue: Round 40-42) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to pink: Round 43-45) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to green: Round 46-48) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to peach: Round 49-51) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to purple: Round 52-54) 1sc in each st, for 3 rounds total (24) Change to yellow: Round 55) 1sc in each st (24) Now we change from working in rounds, to working in rows! This is so we can easily sew our giraffe head on at a downwards angle. Row 1) 1sc in each of the next 18 sts, ch 1, turn Row 2) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 16 sts, ch 1, turn Change to blue: Row 3) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 14 sts, ch 1, turn Row 4) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 12 sts, ch 1, turn Row 5) skip first st, then 1sc in each of the next 10 sts Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body & neck. When you sew the head to the neck: You may have trouble stuffing the very top of the neck fully. To combat this start sewing the head in place leaving the very top of the neck free of stuffing. Before you sew all the way around to secure the neck, stop sewing and stuff the rest of the neck through the remaining hole until you are happy! Continue sewing to close the hole. Arms (Make 2): Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic circle with 7sc (7) Round 2) 2sc in each st (14) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (21) Round 4) Back loop only: 1sc in each st (21) Round 5-6) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (21) Round 7) 1sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (14) From now on we will change colours every 3 rounds. Starting in blue, then pink, green, peach, purple, yellow, and finally blue. Change to blue: Round 8-28) 1sc in each st, for 21 rounds total (14) Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff arms. The bottom of the yellow hoof should be completely flat so don't over stuff his hoof! Legs (Make 2): Starting in yellow: Round 1) Magic circle with 6sc (6) Round 2) 2sc in each st (12) Round 3) 1sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (18) Round 4) 2sc, 2sc in next st, repeat until end of round (24) Round 5) Back loop only: 1sc in each st (24) Round 6-7) 1sc in each st, for 2 rounds total (24) Round 8) 2sc then 2tog, repeat until end of round (18) From now on we will change colours every 3 rows. Starting in blue, then pink, green, peach, purple, yellow, blue, pink and finally green. Change to blue: Round 9-35) 1sc in each st, for 27 rounds total (18) Slip stitch into the next st and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff legs. The bottom of the yellow hoof should be completely flat so don't over stuff his hoof! The following is the easiest order I have found to sew your ami together. Top tip: Keep colour changes to the back of your giraffe, for seemingly perfect strips! 1. Sew the horns to the head. They should stand up completely straight at the top of the head. 2. Sew the ears at either side of the head. They should stick out almost completely horizontally from the side of the head. 3. Sew the head to the neck. The head is sewn on at a downwards angle, the back of the head should sit almost ontop of the blue rows at the top of the neck. The back of the head should line up perfectly with the back of the neck and not stick out past the neck. When you sew the head to the neck: You may have trouble stuffing the very top of the neck fully. To combat this start sewing the head in place leaving the very top of the neck free of stuffing. Before you sew all the way around to secure the neck, stop sewing and stuff the rest of the neck through the remaining hole until you are happy! Continue sewing to close the hole. 4. Sew the arms to the body. The are sewn to the top of the last purple round just before the neck starts. 5. Decide whether you want your giraffe to sit or stand and sew the legs in place accordingly. Now your giraffe is sewn together all we have to do is shape the hooves and attach the mane. Please see the instructions for these steps below. Shaping The Hooves The hooves are created by tying a length of yarn around the front of the foot. Use this same technique for both the arms and the legs. 1. Take a long length of yellow yarn on your yarn needle. Insert needle through the middle of the magic circle on the bottom of the foot and bring yarn out again in the middle of the second last yellow row of the hoof. Important: Leave a decent length of the end of your yarn sticking out the bottom of the magic circle! 2. Take that same length of yarn through the foot again the exact same way at the exact same holes/places as step one. 3. You should have 2 yarn tails sticking out of the hoof now. One coming from the magic circle and one at the top of the hoof. Take these 2 yarn tails and pull them as tight as you can to shape the hoof! 4. Once you have the hoof the shape you desire tie the two yarn tails together in a knot to secure the shape. Hide the left over yarn tails inside your giraffe using the yarn needle. Attaching The Mane Attaching the mane is simple although a little time consuming! We are going to attach 3 rows of yarn in each sections matching colour. 1. To create yarn pieces of all the same length, hold your hand as if you were going to shake someones hand. Wrap desired colour of yarn around the 4 fingers of your hand (excluding the thumb) roughly 20 times. More yarn can be made later if you don't make enough, try not to waste precious yarn! 2. Slip the whole loop of yarn off your hand and cut once at the top of the loop through every strand. You should now have several strands of yarn all roughly the same size. 3. Insert hook into stitch in the neck you would like to attach yarn to. Your hook should be pointing down towards the bottom of your giraffe with the handle pointing to the top of his head as pictured. It is a good idea to start from the top of the giraffes head, between his horns, and work downwards. 4. Folding the strand in half, pull the strand through the stitch at the centre point to create a loop. Try to keep both ends of the strand the same length as you do this. 5. Pull both ends of the strand through the loop created and pull as tight at you can to secure strand to the neck. 6. Repeat step 5 in the stitch directly next to your existing hair strand. Your giraffe will look better if you keep the strands in neat rows, with the same number of hair strands in every row. 7. Keep attaching hair all the way down to the bottom of the neck changing colours as the neck does. 8. Once all hair is attached, trim to the desired length. Cut all strands the exact same length and remember - giraffe's have short manes! ♥ And that my dear friends, concludes another Heart & Sew pattern. I hope you enjoyed making your own giraffe and will be following along for my next free crochet pattern! Peace, love & yarn, Julie xo Facebook • Instagram • Pinterest

The perfect creepy/cute plushie! Measuring in at 11 inches at its tallest, this adorable plushie is made with acrylic yarn in the classic orange and black Halloween colorway with a special black glitter yarn and is sure to win your heart. Whether you have a fondness for the darker side or the more cutesy side, this baby Baphy has the best of both worlds. This item is not intended as a toy for small children, as it has plastic safety eyes which can be a choking hazard if removed. Care: Do not machine wash or dry. Spot clean with a damp cloth and allow to air dry. Original pattern by Grim Grinning Goats.

Discover a sea of creativity with our collection of free Amigurumi crochet patterns for adorable sea creature animal toys. Dive into the joy of crafting today!

Free amigurumi patterns... On our blog, you can find great ideas, tutorials and crochet step-by-step tutorials about amigurumi clown. You will not have a hard time crocheting Amigurumi free crochet patterns.

As requested by popular demand, I have created a separate Santa outfit to fit the original Gonk body. Find the new free Santa Gonk outfit pattern here!