This makes me crazy and I see it all the time in patterns. When I saw it on this McCall’s pattern #6844 I decided to get some information out about it so others will know to look for it. Th…
Sewing is often a slow process. It is so easy to let your imagination wander when you are choosing a design for your new dress, or fabric and a pattern to use in your next project. It takes a lot of time also to prepare the pattern, to cut the fabric, to sew all seams and press them. And usually we can’t sew all day long. So I am always looking for ways to be more efficient and sew faster. I don’t want to stay with one project for a few weeks, I noticed actually that the less time it takes from an idea to the result the more I am enjoying the process and I am also more satisfied with my garment. Over the years I discovered many ways to sew faster and to get professional results. I am going to share them with you in this list.
What's that red ball for? Best seam rippers.
It's a super clean and neat seam finish to give your garment that little professional touch since it completely encases the raw edges!
Florencia and Jana (by email) both asked about the lapped, flat-felled split side seam, thank you for asking! Since I … Continue Reading →
Pillowcases make great personalized gifts. I can teach you how to make a perfect pillowcase using my Burrito Method and this Pillowcase Pattern.
The Hong Kong seam finish is an exquisite seam finish. Being a person originally from Hong Kong, I am not aware how this name came to be. In fact, if you mention Hong Kong seam finish in Hong Kong, I bet everyone will stare at you like you are speaking gibberish. I imagine you’d probably receive a similar […]
Learn how to deal with bulky seams.
I am going to show you how to sew a hem that is perfect every time. There are a lot of sewing tutorials that just say "sew a hem"
I've been asked a number of times how I do a french seam at the armhole of my blouses, so I put together a little tutorial to demonstrate the process. It might sound difficult, but if you can sew a regular french seam you can do an armhole french seam easily. The NUMBER ONE rule for sewing with french seams is to make sure you are using a somewhat thin fabric. I've attempted them before on fabrics like bottom weight denim and the outcome is bulky and happy-hands-at-home looking. ***Picture order is top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right.*** 1. Sew a line of gathering stitches onto the prepared sleeve. I actually like to sew 2 lines with a 4mm stitch length and leave the thread ends long enough to pull. 2. Pull one set of threads to gather the sleeve slightly. You can always gather it more when you get it situated in the sleeve but this gives you a little head start. 3. When I'm sewing french seams that will intersect, I always iron them in different directions. For example, here where the side seam meets the sleeve seam, I've ironed the side seam towards the back and the sleeve seam towards the front. Even in an especially thin fabric, french seams cause some bulk, and ironing them in different directions cuts down on this. 4. Pin the sleeve to the bodice WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. Line up your notches and adjust your gathers. I use long pins so I double insert them for a good grip. Don't cut your long gathering threads yet. The gathers on this sturdy cotton aren't going anywhere but they could slip out in something silky. 5. If possible, adjust your needle position to a little less then .25 inches. A standard seam line is 5/8" so I half that a reduce a little more for turn of cloth. You'll want to line up the right side of the machine foot with the fabric to give you an even line of stitches. 6. Stitch. When you get to the area with the gather, try to smooth out any bumps to avoid puckers. 7. When you get done with the first seam, inspect your work. Any big tucks need to be undone, readjusted and restitched. 8. Press. I pull the sleeve out so that I'm ironing on the front bodice and pressing the seam towards the sleeve. Pull on the sleeve a little to ensure a crisp edge for the second seam. 9. Here's what the first seam should look like when you're done pressing. 10. Trim away about half of this first seam allowance. I always put my hand under the edges being snipped to that I don't catch my bodice fabric on accident. 11. My sleeve is done being trimmed. 12. Turn the garment to the inside and pin for the second seam. Adjust gathering threads if needed. I like to sew this seam with the gathers up so that I can adjust any areas that might need it. 13. Stitch, keeping the needle in the same position as the first seam and aligning the fabric with the right edge. 14. The finished sleeve seam. Inspect for tucks and clip the gathering threads off. 15. Pull the sleeve through the armhole and iron from the inside, pressing the seam towards the sleeve. 16. Done!
More Learn to Sew Tips and Techniques: Before there were sergers, people who sewed knew how to Finish Seams without a Serger. Learn How to Finish Seams.
Learn couture methods for matching stripes, plaids and prints. Remember, the beauty is always in the details.
Take your sewing projects to the next level using these sewing tips and tricks.
Hi Itch to Stitch Readers! Who here hates finishing their seam allowances? For me, finishing seam allowances is never one of my favourite parts of sewing. It’s not a very exciting task, and sometimes it feels like it takes forever. But unfortunately, even though it’s boring, finishing your seam allowances is an extremely important part […]
A new method for sewing a French seam, using a zigzag instead of a straight stitch for the first (wrong sides together) seam.
Learn to sew a Zipper. This tutorial with show you How to Sew a Zipper in 3 different ways so you can install a zipper in a bag, on a dress, on a pillow...
When it comes to a seam that conceals all raw edges, French seam and Hong Kong seam finish seem to be first that come to people’s mind. But I think the flat felled seam deserves equal accolade. Flat felled seam is, well, flat. Unlike French seam and Hong Kong seam, there is nothing that sticks […]
There's nothing more thrilling than finishing a garment that you've made all yourself, beginning to end. The only hitch? The hem! Though it may seem like a simple project at first, with so many stitching, folding, and sewing machine techniques, you may feel at a loss for what kind of hem to use. What's the difference between a baby hem and a rolled hem? What kinds of hems are invisible and which can you see? Are some hems more flexible than others? What the heck is a hem to begin with? Put your mind at ease with this simple guide to different types of hems. Learn all of the pros and cons to various hand-stitched and machine-stitched hem types, and you'll be finishing the ends of your clothes like a pro. Even better, this manual has definitions for every term you need to understand hemming instructions. Tackle all of the sewing lingo from a "blind hemmer" to "hem allowance" with these easy-to-read terms. When you have a jaw-dropping dress that's nearly ready to stun on date night or a tailored blouse that's a single snip from being interview-perfect, don't leave your final stitches to chance. Everything you need to select the ultimate hem type can be found in this free, online guide! Sign Up For More Free Patterns >>> PLUS! We have 10 hem tutorials to help you master all the different types of hems. Scroll down to find all the wonderful hemming projects to try.
Need a refresher on the different types of seams at your disposal? Or maybe you’re starting out and doing research to better acquaint yourself with your
Learn how to finish a seam and when to use it with one of these 9 seam finishes. There are different seam finishes for knit and woven fabric.
Would you like to know how to sew an invisible zipper fast and simple? Are you intimidated by sewing the invisible zipper? Let me show you the fastest and easiest way to insert an invisible zip that eliminates the need for pins and basting. You don’t need to fumble with pins, baste the zipper or press the zipper teeth flat before starting. This technique will help you to eliminate common problems and get professional results that you will be proud to show off.
Have you ever wondered what the little ball is for on your seam ripper? Learn how to use a seam ripper and the little red ball.
On Friday I mentioned that sewing certain seams annoys me. I never wrote about it because I’m too picky but based on a vote (2 for, none opposed, that’s democracy for you), we’ll discus…
The Azara Top free sewing pattern has beautiful full bell sleeves, a slim button placket, and a striking pointed collar. Beautifully finished with Italian Rhinestone shank buttons, you’ll look just as intriguing as a wrapped gift!
Sewing tutorial - how to sew a curved French seam. Sewing tips and advice, how-to's and sewing patterns from By Hand London.
Pillowcases make great personalized gifts. I can teach you how to make a perfect pillowcase using my Burrito Method and this Pillowcase Pattern.
"I like contouring because it’s easy and it can save you a whole load of construction trouble if you do it right. I’ve had times when I haven’t contoured and I’m left with a whole load of excess fabric that I can’t get rid of, rendering the garment unwearable and it’s annoying! This tutorial will probably make a lot more sense if you watch my more in-depth tutorial on contouring! It’s not a prerequisite, but it will help."
This easy welt seam tutorial is perfect for sewing beginners who are just learning to sew..
A couple of days ago, I clicked through to a tutorial about all-in-one facings on Crafterhours. Although I knew how I line a bodice, I'm always interested in how other people do things. And it turns out we do it differently! After a very pleasant exchange of emails and ideas, I was encouraged to share my way of doing it so here we go... By fully lining a bodice, not only is it a neater finish and a way of hiding your seams but it's possible to encorporate it a fully reversible dress. Personally, I find it quicker than facings or bindings. This method of works if your back piece has a centre seam that makes it two pieces (so you can put in a zipper or a slit or a button placket). If you have a single front and back piece, this is not the way for you... You will have a front bodice and two back bodice pieces, and identical pieces cut out of your lining. Sew the shoulder seams like so: Repeat for lining pieces. Right sides facing, place the shell bodice on top of the lining bodice, match up all the edges and pin in place. Sew them together along the neck curve and armhole curve. In this picture, I am making a slit with a button so I've also sewn partially down the centre back seam. Don't do this if you're not making a slit! Clip into the seam allowances around the neck and arm curves so they can be pressed flatter. Push each side of the bodice right side out through the front bottom hole. Manipulate with your fingers so all seams lie flat and corners are sharp. Press into position with the iron. Bring one of your back pieces down onto the front piece, matching up the four raw edges from the armpit down to where the bodice ends. It should be a sandwich of shell, lining, lining, shell. Right sides facing, pinch the two bottom corners of lining together, leaving the two shell pieces hanging loose (I've flipped a shell piece up so you can see better). Pull the shell corners up (rigth sides facing) and pin along both raw edges, up and over the seam line where the fabric changes (pic on right below). Right sides facing, you have now pinned together lining to lining, shell to shell. Stitch along this edge. While you are stitching, pull and manipulate the fabric so it is a straight line. Clip into seam allowance where the two fabrics meet, and then flip it open again and your side seam is created. Press in place. Repeat this process for the other side seams of the bodice, and you will have this: If you're doing a slit and button closure (as I am in these pictures), repeat the same process as you did to the side seams to the centre back seam.You're done! Now you have a nice and neat fully lined bodice. Pin It Tweet
Partial Seams is a technique used to attach a piece of fabric that is longer than an adjacent piece. For example, the block shown
With basic sewing skills, you can master these common upholstery techniques.
I often get a question from my readers - how to sew straight? In this guide, I will show you how to easily keep stitching lines straight. I will talk about topstitching mostly because keeping seam allowances equal is a different topic. Have you ever had problems with crooked stitching lines? I bet you had. Even intermediate sewists are struggling sometimes to do it and had to rip and redo stitching. But sewing in a straight line is much simpler than you think. And I want to help you to sew straight every time.
Learn how to successfully fit an armhole by using a muslin. Adjust the bust, back, and shoulder—and your armhole almost takes care of itself.
How to Finish Seams Beautifully WITHOUT a Serger!: If you want to learn to finish your garments beautifully, rayon seam binding is a fantastic way to go! For mere pennies a yard, you can encase your raw edges with beautiful colored rayon. This is so much cheaper and easier than purchasin…
10 Serger Tips for Beginners - For my Christmas, I splurged and bought myself a new Juki serger and I love it!Sergers sew, cut, and finish
