Top Sehenswürdigkeiten Chiemsee ✓ Insidertipps einer Einheimischen ✓ Die schönsten Orte und Ausflüge ✓ Jetzt lesen
ALL NATURAL LEAF THREADING ACTIVITY - engage with nature, get creative and develop fine motor skills. Fun!
Ob pur, zur Verfeinerung von Desserts oder in Cocktails: Der Biotta Ananas-Saft ist ein Allround-Talent. Was ihn von anderen Ananas-Säften unterscheidet? Er ist direkt gepresst, 100% naturbelassen und in bester Bio-Qualität. Und das schmeckt man. Denn nur die besten Bio-Früchte kommen in die Biotta Flasche. Tropischer Genuss 100% Direktsaft
col rond henley boutons pression à l’entrejambe motif structuré intégral
I am so thrilled to say my hexagon blanket is DONE! I am so in love with it and could not be any happier with how it turned out. To date it is the largest (no kidding it's massive) and nicest project I have ever made so I am really glad that it is for me. Most of what I make it for sale or gifts so it's fun to make something for myself. It took just under 2 months to complete, but it felt like forever. I fell so in love with the pattern that I couldn't make it fast enough. Now to start one for my Momma for Mothers day..... Just not so big.
Lækre LCHF grillspyd med svinemørbrad, bacon, peberfrugt og løg Grill og LCHF er to ting der passer rigtig godt sammen. LCHF grillmad er som oftest også rigtigt nemt og hurtigt at lave. Som gri
As the largest Mediterranean island, Sicily is the perfect place to spend a week, exploring and experiencing some of the most famous parts of Italy. The adventures, food, and people are completely unforgettable. Not
Detta är ett tryckt mönster på svenska. Mönstret skickas endast om du samtidigt handlar minst 2 nystan garn. Vi förbehåller oss rätten att annullera ordrar som inte uppfyller detta. Ingrid Sweater stickas uppifrån och ner i strukturstickning. Först stickas ryggen, som stickas med förkortade varv för att forma axellutningen. Därefter plockas det upp maskor till axelpartierna, som också stickas med förkortade varv för att forma axellutningen. Axelpartierna sammanförs därefter framtill för att sticka framstycket. Framstycke och ryggstycke sammanförs i sin tur under ärmhålet för att sticka bålen, som stickas rakt ner. Ärmarna stickas runt utifrån upplockade maskor i ärmhålet. Ingrid Sweater stickas med strukturstickning, bestående av tre olika mönstersegment. Mellan vart och ett av dessa stickas ett parti med hålmönster. Gör ett stickprov innan du börjar sticka för att mäta stickfastheten – notera att stickfastheten ska stämma både på höjden och bredden för att de på framsidan angivna måtten ska stämma. Storleksguide Ingrid Sweater bör ha en rörelsevidd (positive ease) på ca. 20 cm i förhållande till din bystvidd. Storlekarna XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL motsvarar en bystvidd, mätt på kroppen, på 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm. Måtten på den färdiga tröjan är angivna på framsidan av mönstret. Mät dig själv innan du börjar sticka, för att avgöra vilken storlek som kommer passa dig bäst. Om du t.ex. mäter 90 cm runt om bysten (eller det bredaste stället på din kropp), bör du sticka en stl S. En tröjan i stl S har övervidden 112 cm och kommer i nämnda exempel att ge en rörelsevidd (positive ease) på 22 cm. Storlekar: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL Tröjans övervidd: 104 (112) 116 (120) 128 (136) 152 (160) 168 cm Längd: 56 (58) 60 (63) 65 (67) 68 (69) 70 cm Stickfasthet: 20 maskor x 30 varv i strukturstickning på stickor 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm efter tvätt och blockning Stickförslag: Rundsticka 4 mm (40, 60, 80 och/eller 100 cm), rundsticka 3 (40 cm) och 3,5 mm (40, 80 och/eller 100 cm), strumpstickor 4 mm och strumpstickor 3,5 mm Material: Förslag med två trådar: 400-450 (450) 450-500 (500-550) 550 (600) 650 (700) 750 g Jensen från Isager Yarn (50 g = 125 m) eller 300-350 (350) 350-400 (400-450) 450 (450) 500 (500-550) 550 g Pernilla från Filcolana (50 g = 175 m) stickas tillsammans 125 (125-150) 150 (150-175) 175 (200) 200 (200-225) 225 g Silk Mohair från Isager Yarn (25 g = 212 m) eller Kid Seta från Gepard garn (25 g = 210 m) Förslag med en tråd: 600-650 (650) 700 (750) 800 (850) 900 (1000) 1050 g Peer Gynt från Sandnes garn (50 g = ca 91 m) Svårighetsgrad: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ (5 av 5) Den ljusa Ingrid Sweater är stickad i Jensen från Isager i färgen 6 tillsammans med Silk Mohair från Isager i färgen 6.
Mga Tampok:Hiwalay na Dual Pouch Technology: mga pouch na nakakaangat at sumusuporta sa iyong 'pagkalalaki' para sa pinahusay na profile at komportableng biyahe.Makahinga at Malambot na Tela: isang all-round flattering fit na wicks moisture na nagpapanatili kang sariwa at mainit-init.Pagtutukoy: Hiwalay na disenyo ng pouch 95% Regenerated Fiber, 5% Cotton kalagitnaan ng timbang Thermal construction Ang moisture-wicking na tela ay nagpapanatili sa iyo na mainit at tuyo Mag-stretch na tela Mga patag na tahi Tag Nilagyan Paghuhugas ng makina - maselanKasama ang Package: 1*Ibaba
The Emery Cluster Stitch Beanie Pattern in 5 Sizes with link to YouTube tutorial for Rounds 2 and 3. Matching mitten pattern sold separately. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1297885348/crochet-pattern-the-emery-mittens?click_key=3a7014aec1bcc545fd415c2b5959050f34f3e6ff%3A1297885348&click_sum=c8ea021a&ref=shop_home_active_2&pro=1&sts=1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ PATTERN DOWNLOAD INSTRUCTIONS Log in to your Etsy account on the desktop site, NOT the app. Click on your profile photo and then on “purchases and reviews”. Tap the pattern. At the top of the receipt there will be a “download files” tab that you will click on to download the pattern. If you have any problems downloading the pattern, please message me on Etsy or by email ([email protected]) . I would be happy to email you the pattern and/or answer any questions you might have. I am available 7 days/week between 5:00 AM - 6:00 PM US Central Standard Time. To the store, dropping the kids off at school, or going for a hike in the woods... This cozy textured beanie is sure to keep you warm and looking sharp through all of your adventures. I have provided instructions in the pattern for making a brimless beanie or a double brim beanie (brim folds up). *SKill Level: INTERMEDIATE * Pattern written in English using American terminology *YouTube tutorial for rounds 2 and 3 included in the pattern * Helpful stitch guide and many step by step photos included *Yarn- heavy worsted weight, size 4 such as Lion Brand Vanna's Choice, We are Knitters Petite Wool, and Red Heart Super Saver *Hooks ~US H/5 mm (double brim beanie only) ~US I (5.5 mm) for double brim beanie and brimless beanie ~US J/6 mm for brimless beanie only *Sizes .Toddler .Child .Adult Small .Adult Medium .Adult Large ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- PERMISSION TO SELL FINISHED ITEMS-You have my permission to sell every hat you make from this pattern. If you want to mention my shop in the listing that would be very nice. But, I do not require that! You do not have permission to re-sell the pattern or use the photos that are included with this pattern! The photos and the pattern are protected under copyright. Thank you for your understanding. I believe strongly in customer service and am always available to answer any questions you might have about the pattern. You can contact me through etsy or by email- rubywebbs [!at] gmail.com online, please include a link back to my shop - www.rubywebbs.etsy.com
I'm finally sharing the tutorial for my favorite skirt! Almost all my skirts are made from this tutorial, it's pretty simple and it turns out great every time. It has a flat waistband in the front and elastic in the back so no zippers or buttons are needed! There are no complicated patterns to cut out, just four rectangles. There are also lots of fun ways to mix up this pattern by add a contrasting band at the hem, pockets, or a bow around the waist, etc. You can see a lot of other skirts I made using this method in this post. Click on the link below to see the full tutorial! MATERIALS: elastic (no-roll woven elastic works best) interfacing fabric rotary cutter and mat sewing supplies (machine, thread, scissors, etc.) The amount of fabric needed really depends on the length of your skirt and how gathered you like it. I like my skirts to be knee length and gathered with about twice the waist measurement. This is how much I fabric is use: child's skirt, size 12 and under.... 1 yard teenager, adult.... 1.5 yards If you want a skirt longer than 23 inches, buy 2 yards. I've made this skirt using cotton, seersucker, and now chambray. Most fabrics will work, but lightweight fabrics are best. MEASURING: Measure your waist where you like skirts to sit. Also decide how long you would like the skirt to be. CUTTING: The fabric that I used for this skirt was 60 inches wide, but 45 inch fabric works just as well. Fold the fabric in half along the longest side or "hotdog style." Now you are going to cut out the waistband pieces. Here is a little equation to figure out how wide to cut your waistband pieces: elastic width + .5" x 2 = final width For example: 1" (elastic) + .5" (seam allowance) x 2 = 3 inches total Cut out two waistband pieces. Leave one waistband piece long. For the second waistband piece use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 + 1" (seam allowance) = waistband length Example, for 30" waist measurement: 30" ÷ 2 +1" = 16" After you cut the waistband pieces you should have a large piece leftover. Cut it along the fold. This makes your two skirt pieces- front and back. For your elastic use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 - 3" = final elastic length Example: 30" waist ÷ 2 - 3" = 12" Now all of your fabric pieces are cut out! You should have 2 skirt rectangles (only 1 pictured here), 1 long waistband strip, 1 short waistband strip, and the elastic. SEWING: Fold and iron both waistband pieces in half, lengthwise. We are going to make the front of the skirt first. Take one the skirt pieces and gather it along the long side. Pull the gathering threads tight until the skirt is the same length as your shorter waistband piece. Unfold the waistband piece and pin it to your gathered skirt. Lay both the skirt and waistband down so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you. Sew along the side that you pinned. After the waistband is sewn to the skirt, it should look like this. Turn the fabric so that the raw edge of the seam is facing up. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband piece and not the skirt. Fold and iron the waistband piece over 1/4" along the edge. Iron interfacing onto the waistband, leaving a 1/4" border with no interfacing. Peel the paper off your interfacing. Fold the waistband over so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Iron the waistband down. Top stitch the waistband onto the skirt. I used a very tiny seam allowance here, just eyeballing it. Top stitch along the top of the waistband. This is just for looks. Yay! The front of the skirt is done! It's okay if the waistband is a little wavy like mine, it will be flat when someone wears the skirt. Now we are going to make the back of the skirt. Unfold your long waistband piece and lay it on top of your second skirt piece. Make sure the wrong side of both the waistband and the skirt are facing you. Sew the waistband onto the skirt. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband and not the skirt. Fold and iron the top of the waistband over 1/4". Fold over the waistband so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Top stitch along the bottom and the top of the waistband. My waistband was too wide so I used two strips of elastic and made a second casing. Normally you will just have one elastic casing. Put a safety pin on the end of your elastic and feed it through the casing. Stop feeding the elastic through when there is just a tiny bit of elastic left at the opening. Sew a line down the side to keep the elastic in place. You can zig-zag the edge to make it extra secure. Pull the elastic all the way through the casing, remove the safety pin, and sew it down on the other end, just like you did with the first. (My skirt has 2 casings, but normally it should have 1 elastic casing) Now both the front and back of your skirt are done! Sew the skirt together by putting the front and back pieces together with right sides facing each other. Sew down each side. If you would like, serge or zigzag the edges. *If you want to add pockets, put them in before sewing up the sides. Hem the bottom of the skirt to your desired length. All done! Enjoy your new skirt!
I'm finally sharing the tutorial for my favorite skirt! Almost all my skirts are made from this tutorial, it's pretty simple and it turns out great every time. It has a flat waistband in the front and elastic in the back so no zippers or buttons are needed! There are no complicated patterns to cut out, just four rectangles. There are also lots of fun ways to mix up this pattern by add a contrasting band at the hem, pockets, or a bow around the waist, etc. You can see a lot of other skirts I made using this method in this post. Click on the link below to see the full tutorial! MATERIALS: elastic (no-roll woven elastic works best) interfacing fabric rotary cutter and mat sewing supplies (machine, thread, scissors, etc.) The amount of fabric needed really depends on the length of your skirt and how gathered you like it. I like my skirts to be knee length and gathered with about twice the waist measurement. This is how much I fabric is use: child's skirt, size 12 and under.... 1 yard teenager, adult.... 1.5 yards If you want a skirt longer than 23 inches, buy 2 yards. I've made this skirt using cotton, seersucker, and now chambray. Most fabrics will work, but lightweight fabrics are best. MEASURING: Measure your waist where you like skirts to sit. Also decide how long you would like the skirt to be. CUTTING: The fabric that I used for this skirt was 60 inches wide, but 45 inch fabric works just as well. Fold the fabric in half along the longest side or "hotdog style." Now you are going to cut out the waistband pieces. Here is a little equation to figure out how wide to cut your waistband pieces: elastic width + .5" x 2 = final width For example: 1" (elastic) + .5" (seam allowance) x 2 = 3 inches total Cut out two waistband pieces. Leave one waistband piece long. For the second waistband piece use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 + 1" (seam allowance) = waistband length Example, for 30" waist measurement: 30" ÷ 2 +1" = 16" After you cut the waistband pieces you should have a large piece leftover. Cut it along the fold. This makes your two skirt pieces- front and back. For your elastic use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 - 3" = final elastic length Example: 30" waist ÷ 2 - 3" = 12" Now all of your fabric pieces are cut out! You should have 2 skirt rectangles (only 1 pictured here), 1 long waistband strip, 1 short waistband strip, and the elastic. SEWING: Fold and iron both waistband pieces in half, lengthwise. We are going to make the front of the skirt first. Take one the skirt pieces and gather it along the long side. Pull the gathering threads tight until the skirt is the same length as your shorter waistband piece. Unfold the waistband piece and pin it to your gathered skirt. Lay both the skirt and waistband down so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you. Sew along the side that you pinned. After the waistband is sewn to the skirt, it should look like this. Turn the fabric so that the raw edge of the seam is facing up. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband piece and not the skirt. Fold and iron the waistband piece over 1/4" along the edge. Iron interfacing onto the waistband, leaving a 1/4" border with no interfacing. Peel the paper off your interfacing. Fold the waistband over so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Iron the waistband down. Top stitch the waistband onto the skirt. I used a very tiny seam allowance here, just eyeballing it. Top stitch along the top of the waistband. This is just for looks. Yay! The front of the skirt is done! It's okay if the waistband is a little wavy like mine, it will be flat when someone wears the skirt. Now we are going to make the back of the skirt. Unfold your long waistband piece and lay it on top of your second skirt piece. Make sure the wrong side of both the waistband and the skirt are facing you. Sew the waistband onto the skirt. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband and not the skirt. Fold and iron the top of the waistband over 1/4". Fold over the waistband so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Top stitch along the bottom and the top of the waistband. My waistband was too wide so I used two strips of elastic and made a second casing. Normally you will just have one elastic casing. Put a safety pin on the end of your elastic and feed it through the casing. Stop feeding the elastic through when there is just a tiny bit of elastic left at the opening. Sew a line down the side to keep the elastic in place. You can zig-zag the edge to make it extra secure. Pull the elastic all the way through the casing, remove the safety pin, and sew it down on the other end, just like you did with the first. (My skirt has 2 casings, but normally it should have 1 elastic casing) Now both the front and back of your skirt are done! Sew the skirt together by putting the front and back pieces together with right sides facing each other. Sew down each side. If you would like, serge or zigzag the edges. *If you want to add pockets, put them in before sewing up the sides. Hem the bottom of the skirt to your desired length. All done! Enjoy your new skirt!
Designed for road rides where you might want to carry a large saddle bag, requiring a rigid support rack, the Canvas is a road bike designed for all-day rides. The Canvas is a production model offered by Austin, Texas-based Tomii Cycles with a retail price of $2,000 for a frameset, including an Enve RD fork, one color paint (Cucumber Green or Battleship Gray) and color matching custom rear rack. Check out more frame details, ordering information at Tomii Cycles and look at more high res images at the Tomii Cycles Flickr.
I'm finally sharing the tutorial for my favorite skirt! Almost all my skirts are made from this tutorial, it's pretty simple and it turns out great every time. It has a flat waistband in the front and elastic in the back so no zippers or buttons are needed! There are no complicated patterns to cut out, just four rectangles. There are also lots of fun ways to mix up this pattern by add a contrasting band at the hem, pockets, or a bow around the waist, etc. You can see a lot of other skirts I made using this method in this post. Click on the link below to see the full tutorial! MATERIALS: elastic (no-roll woven elastic works best) interfacing fabric rotary cutter and mat sewing supplies (machine, thread, scissors, etc.) The amount of fabric needed really depends on the length of your skirt and how gathered you like it. I like my skirts to be knee length and gathered with about twice the waist measurement. This is how much I fabric is use: child's skirt, size 12 and under.... 1 yard teenager, adult.... 1.5 yards If you want a skirt longer than 23 inches, buy 2 yards. I've made this skirt using cotton, seersucker, and now chambray. Most fabrics will work, but lightweight fabrics are best. MEASURING: Measure your waist where you like skirts to sit. Also decide how long you would like the skirt to be. CUTTING: The fabric that I used for this skirt was 60 inches wide, but 45 inch fabric works just as well. Fold the fabric in half along the longest side or "hotdog style." Now you are going to cut out the waistband pieces. Here is a little equation to figure out how wide to cut your waistband pieces: elastic width + .5" x 2 = final width For example: 1" (elastic) + .5" (seam allowance) x 2 = 3 inches total Cut out two waistband pieces. Leave one waistband piece long. For the second waistband piece use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 + 1" (seam allowance) = waistband length Example, for 30" waist measurement: 30" ÷ 2 +1" = 16" After you cut the waistband pieces you should have a large piece leftover. Cut it along the fold. This makes your two skirt pieces- front and back. For your elastic use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 - 3" = final elastic length Example: 30" waist ÷ 2 - 3" = 12" Now all of your fabric pieces are cut out! You should have 2 skirt rectangles (only 1 pictured here), 1 long waistband strip, 1 short waistband strip, and the elastic. SEWING: Fold and iron both waistband pieces in half, lengthwise. We are going to make the front of the skirt first. Take one the skirt pieces and gather it along the long side. Pull the gathering threads tight until the skirt is the same length as your shorter waistband piece. Unfold the waistband piece and pin it to your gathered skirt. Lay both the skirt and waistband down so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you. Sew along the side that you pinned. After the waistband is sewn to the skirt, it should look like this. Turn the fabric so that the raw edge of the seam is facing up. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband piece and not the skirt. Fold and iron the waistband piece over 1/4" along the edge. Iron interfacing onto the waistband, leaving a 1/4" border with no interfacing. Peel the paper off your interfacing. Fold the waistband over so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Iron the waistband down. Top stitch the waistband onto the skirt. I used a very tiny seam allowance here, just eyeballing it. Top stitch along the top of the waistband. This is just for looks. Yay! The front of the skirt is done! It's okay if the waistband is a little wavy like mine, it will be flat when someone wears the skirt. Now we are going to make the back of the skirt. Unfold your long waistband piece and lay it on top of your second skirt piece. Make sure the wrong side of both the waistband and the skirt are facing you. Sew the waistband onto the skirt. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband and not the skirt. Fold and iron the top of the waistband over 1/4". Fold over the waistband so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Top stitch along the bottom and the top of the waistband. My waistband was too wide so I used two strips of elastic and made a second casing. Normally you will just have one elastic casing. Put a safety pin on the end of your elastic and feed it through the casing. Stop feeding the elastic through when there is just a tiny bit of elastic left at the opening. Sew a line down the side to keep the elastic in place. You can zig-zag the edge to make it extra secure. Pull the elastic all the way through the casing, remove the safety pin, and sew it down on the other end, just like you did with the first. (My skirt has 2 casings, but normally it should have 1 elastic casing) Now both the front and back of your skirt are done! Sew the skirt together by putting the front and back pieces together with right sides facing each other. Sew down each side. If you would like, serge or zigzag the edges. *If you want to add pockets, put them in before sewing up the sides. Hem the bottom of the skirt to your desired length. All done! Enjoy your new skirt!
Mga Tampok:Hiwalay na Dual Pouch Technology: mga pouch na nakakaangat at sumusuporta sa iyong 'pagkalalaki' para sa pinahusay na profile at komportableng biyahe.Makahinga at Malambot na Tela: isang all-round flattering fit na wicks moisture na nagpapanatili kang sariwa at mainit-init.Pagtutukoy: Hiwalay na disenyo ng pouch 95% Regenerated Fiber, 5% Cotton kalagitnaan ng timbang Thermal construction Ang moisture-wicking na tela ay nagpapanatili sa iyo na mainit at tuyo Mag-stretch na tela Mga patag na tahi Tag Nilagyan Paghuhugas ng makina - maselanKasama ang Package: 1*Ibaba
We all know that France is a beautiful country, but I never knew France had so many gems! Last summer my husband and I did a road trip through the South of France. All the places we had visited during our trip were amazing, but I want to highlight a few hidden gems that really […]
I'm finally sharing the tutorial for my favorite skirt! Almost all my skirts are made from this tutorial, it's pretty simple and it turns out great every time. It has a flat waistband in the front and elastic in the back so no zippers or buttons are needed! There are no complicated patterns to cut out, just four rectangles. There are also lots of fun ways to mix up this pattern by add a contrasting band at the hem, pockets, or a bow around the waist, etc. You can see a lot of other skirts I made using this method in this post. Click on the link below to see the full tutorial! MATERIALS: elastic (no-roll woven elastic works best) interfacing fabric rotary cutter and mat sewing supplies (machine, thread, scissors, etc.) The amount of fabric needed really depends on the length of your skirt and how gathered you like it. I like my skirts to be knee length and gathered with about twice the waist measurement. This is how much I fabric is use: child's skirt, size 12 and under.... 1 yard teenager, adult.... 1.5 yards If you want a skirt longer than 23 inches, buy 2 yards. I've made this skirt using cotton, seersucker, and now chambray. Most fabrics will work, but lightweight fabrics are best. MEASURING: Measure your waist where you like skirts to sit. Also decide how long you would like the skirt to be. CUTTING: The fabric that I used for this skirt was 60 inches wide, but 45 inch fabric works just as well. Fold the fabric in half along the longest side or "hotdog style." Now you are going to cut out the waistband pieces. Here is a little equation to figure out how wide to cut your waistband pieces: elastic width + .5" x 2 = final width For example: 1" (elastic) + .5" (seam allowance) x 2 = 3 inches total Cut out two waistband pieces. Leave one waistband piece long. For the second waistband piece use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 + 1" (seam allowance) = waistband length Example, for 30" waist measurement: 30" ÷ 2 +1" = 16" After you cut the waistband pieces you should have a large piece leftover. Cut it along the fold. This makes your two skirt pieces- front and back. For your elastic use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 - 3" = final elastic length Example: 30" waist ÷ 2 - 3" = 12" Now all of your fabric pieces are cut out! You should have 2 skirt rectangles (only 1 pictured here), 1 long waistband strip, 1 short waistband strip, and the elastic. SEWING: Fold and iron both waistband pieces in half, lengthwise. We are going to make the front of the skirt first. Take one the skirt pieces and gather it along the long side. Pull the gathering threads tight until the skirt is the same length as your shorter waistband piece. Unfold the waistband piece and pin it to your gathered skirt. Lay both the skirt and waistband down so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you. Sew along the side that you pinned. After the waistband is sewn to the skirt, it should look like this. Turn the fabric so that the raw edge of the seam is facing up. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband piece and not the skirt. Fold and iron the waistband piece over 1/4" along the edge. Iron interfacing onto the waistband, leaving a 1/4" border with no interfacing. Peel the paper off your interfacing. Fold the waistband over so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Iron the waistband down. Top stitch the waistband onto the skirt. I used a very tiny seam allowance here, just eyeballing it. Top stitch along the top of the waistband. This is just for looks. Yay! The front of the skirt is done! It's okay if the waistband is a little wavy like mine, it will be flat when someone wears the skirt. Now we are going to make the back of the skirt. Unfold your long waistband piece and lay it on top of your second skirt piece. Make sure the wrong side of both the waistband and the skirt are facing you. Sew the waistband onto the skirt. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband and not the skirt. Fold and iron the top of the waistband over 1/4". Fold over the waistband so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Top stitch along the bottom and the top of the waistband. My waistband was too wide so I used two strips of elastic and made a second casing. Normally you will just have one elastic casing. Put a safety pin on the end of your elastic and feed it through the casing. Stop feeding the elastic through when there is just a tiny bit of elastic left at the opening. Sew a line down the side to keep the elastic in place. You can zig-zag the edge to make it extra secure. Pull the elastic all the way through the casing, remove the safety pin, and sew it down on the other end, just like you did with the first. (My skirt has 2 casings, but normally it should have 1 elastic casing) Now both the front and back of your skirt are done! Sew the skirt together by putting the front and back pieces together with right sides facing each other. Sew down each side. If you would like, serge or zigzag the edges. *If you want to add pockets, put them in before sewing up the sides. Hem the bottom of the skirt to your desired length. All done! Enjoy your new skirt!
Top US family travel blog, Travel with a Plan, features the Top 50 Disney Fantasy Cruise Tips that you need to know now! Click here now to read!
I'm finally sharing the tutorial for my favorite skirt! Almost all my skirts are made from this tutorial, it's pretty simple and it turns out great every time. It has a flat waistband in the front and elastic in the back so no zippers or buttons are needed! There are no complicated patterns to cut out, just four rectangles. There are also lots of fun ways to mix up this pattern by add a contrasting band at the hem, pockets, or a bow around the waist, etc. You can see a lot of other skirts I made using this method in this post. Click on the link below to see the full tutorial! MATERIALS: elastic (no-roll woven elastic works best) interfacing fabric rotary cutter and mat sewing supplies (machine, thread, scissors, etc.) The amount of fabric needed really depends on the length of your skirt and how gathered you like it. I like my skirts to be knee length and gathered with about twice the waist measurement. This is how much I fabric is use: child's skirt, size 12 and under.... 1 yard teenager, adult.... 1.5 yards If you want a skirt longer than 23 inches, buy 2 yards. I've made this skirt using cotton, seersucker, and now chambray. Most fabrics will work, but lightweight fabrics are best. MEASURING: Measure your waist where you like skirts to sit. Also decide how long you would like the skirt to be. CUTTING: The fabric that I used for this skirt was 60 inches wide, but 45 inch fabric works just as well. Fold the fabric in half along the longest side or "hotdog style." Now you are going to cut out the waistband pieces. Here is a little equation to figure out how wide to cut your waistband pieces: elastic width + .5" x 2 = final width For example: 1" (elastic) + .5" (seam allowance) x 2 = 3 inches total Cut out two waistband pieces. Leave one waistband piece long. For the second waistband piece use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 + 1" (seam allowance) = waistband length Example, for 30" waist measurement: 30" ÷ 2 +1" = 16" After you cut the waistband pieces you should have a large piece leftover. Cut it along the fold. This makes your two skirt pieces- front and back. For your elastic use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 - 3" = final elastic length Example: 30" waist ÷ 2 - 3" = 12" Now all of your fabric pieces are cut out! You should have 2 skirt rectangles (only 1 pictured here), 1 long waistband strip, 1 short waistband strip, and the elastic. SEWING: Fold and iron both waistband pieces in half, lengthwise. We are going to make the front of the skirt first. Take one the skirt pieces and gather it along the long side. Pull the gathering threads tight until the skirt is the same length as your shorter waistband piece. Unfold the waistband piece and pin it to your gathered skirt. Lay both the skirt and waistband down so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you. Sew along the side that you pinned. After the waistband is sewn to the skirt, it should look like this. Turn the fabric so that the raw edge of the seam is facing up. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband piece and not the skirt. Fold and iron the waistband piece over 1/4" along the edge. Iron interfacing onto the waistband, leaving a 1/4" border with no interfacing. Peel the paper off your interfacing. Fold the waistband over so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Iron the waistband down. Top stitch the waistband onto the skirt. I used a very tiny seam allowance here, just eyeballing it. Top stitch along the top of the waistband. This is just for looks. Yay! The front of the skirt is done! It's okay if the waistband is a little wavy like mine, it will be flat when someone wears the skirt. Now we are going to make the back of the skirt. Unfold your long waistband piece and lay it on top of your second skirt piece. Make sure the wrong side of both the waistband and the skirt are facing you. Sew the waistband onto the skirt. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband and not the skirt. Fold and iron the top of the waistband over 1/4". Fold over the waistband so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Top stitch along the bottom and the top of the waistband. My waistband was too wide so I used two strips of elastic and made a second casing. Normally you will just have one elastic casing. Put a safety pin on the end of your elastic and feed it through the casing. Stop feeding the elastic through when there is just a tiny bit of elastic left at the opening. Sew a line down the side to keep the elastic in place. You can zig-zag the edge to make it extra secure. Pull the elastic all the way through the casing, remove the safety pin, and sew it down on the other end, just like you did with the first. (My skirt has 2 casings, but normally it should have 1 elastic casing) Now both the front and back of your skirt are done! Sew the skirt together by putting the front and back pieces together with right sides facing each other. Sew down each side. If you would like, serge or zigzag the edges. *If you want to add pockets, put them in before sewing up the sides. Hem the bottom of the skirt to your desired length. All done! Enjoy your new skirt!
These Fabulous Ladies Helped Make The 90s One Of The Best Decades Ever
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Diese Sofagarnitur bietet einen ausgezeichneten Platz zum Plaudern, Lesen, Fernsehen oder einfach nur zum Entspannen. Sie wird ein echter Blickfang in deinem Zuhause sein. Weicher Samt: Samt ist ein weicher und bequemer Stoff, der sich angenehm auf der Haut anfühlt. 2-in-1-Funktion: Dieses Schlafsofa lässt sich schnell und einfach von einem Sofa in ein Bett und wieder zurück verwandeln. Die zwei separaten Rückenlehnen können teilweise oder ganz nach unten gedrückt werden, um den idealen Platz für ein Nickerchen am Nachmittag zu schaffen oder ein Doppelbett für die Nacht zu haben. Vielseitiger Fußhocker: Der Hocker bietet Platz zum Ausruhen der Füße beim Liegen auf dem Sofa, kann aber auch als zusätzliche Sitzgelegenheit in deinem Zimmer dienen. Darüber hinaus eignet er sich durch sein schlichtes Design und seine kompakte Größe für fast alle Wohnräume. Bequemes Sitzerlebnis: Das Sofa ist durch die dick gepolsterte Sitzfläche und Rückenlehne sehr bequem. Stützbeine: Der Polstersessel wird von stabilen Beinen getragen, die seine Stabilität und Standfestigkeit gewährleisten.
Vibrant flower fields bloom around the world every spring and summer. Amsterdam is famous for its tulips, Texas for its bluebonnets.
I'm finally sharing the tutorial for my favorite skirt! Almost all my skirts are made from this tutorial, it's pretty simple and it turns out great every time. It has a flat waistband in the front and elastic in the back so no zippers or buttons are needed! There are no complicated patterns to cut out, just four rectangles. There are also lots of fun ways to mix up this pattern by add a contrasting band at the hem, pockets, or a bow around the waist, etc. You can see a lot of other skirts I made using this method in this post. Click on the link below to see the full tutorial! MATERIALS: elastic (no-roll woven elastic works best) interfacing fabric rotary cutter and mat sewing supplies (machine, thread, scissors, etc.) The amount of fabric needed really depends on the length of your skirt and how gathered you like it. I like my skirts to be knee length and gathered with about twice the waist measurement. This is how much I fabric is use: child's skirt, size 12 and under.... 1 yard teenager, adult.... 1.5 yards If you want a skirt longer than 23 inches, buy 2 yards. I've made this skirt using cotton, seersucker, and now chambray. Most fabrics will work, but lightweight fabrics are best. MEASURING: Measure your waist where you like skirts to sit. Also decide how long you would like the skirt to be. CUTTING: The fabric that I used for this skirt was 60 inches wide, but 45 inch fabric works just as well. Fold the fabric in half along the longest side or "hotdog style." Now you are going to cut out the waistband pieces. Here is a little equation to figure out how wide to cut your waistband pieces: elastic width + .5" x 2 = final width For example: 1" (elastic) + .5" (seam allowance) x 2 = 3 inches total Cut out two waistband pieces. Leave one waistband piece long. For the second waistband piece use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 + 1" (seam allowance) = waistband length Example, for 30" waist measurement: 30" ÷ 2 +1" = 16" After you cut the waistband pieces you should have a large piece leftover. Cut it along the fold. This makes your two skirt pieces- front and back. For your elastic use this equation to cut it: waist measurement ÷ 2 - 3" = final elastic length Example: 30" waist ÷ 2 - 3" = 12" Now all of your fabric pieces are cut out! You should have 2 skirt rectangles (only 1 pictured here), 1 long waistband strip, 1 short waistband strip, and the elastic. SEWING: Fold and iron both waistband pieces in half, lengthwise. We are going to make the front of the skirt first. Take one the skirt pieces and gather it along the long side. Pull the gathering threads tight until the skirt is the same length as your shorter waistband piece. Unfold the waistband piece and pin it to your gathered skirt. Lay both the skirt and waistband down so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you. Sew along the side that you pinned. After the waistband is sewn to the skirt, it should look like this. Turn the fabric so that the raw edge of the seam is facing up. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband piece and not the skirt. Fold and iron the waistband piece over 1/4" along the edge. Iron interfacing onto the waistband, leaving a 1/4" border with no interfacing. Peel the paper off your interfacing. Fold the waistband over so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Iron the waistband down. Top stitch the waistband onto the skirt. I used a very tiny seam allowance here, just eyeballing it. Top stitch along the top of the waistband. This is just for looks. Yay! The front of the skirt is done! It's okay if the waistband is a little wavy like mine, it will be flat when someone wears the skirt. Now we are going to make the back of the skirt. Unfold your long waistband piece and lay it on top of your second skirt piece. Make sure the wrong side of both the waistband and the skirt are facing you. Sew the waistband onto the skirt. Iron the seam so that it is turned toward the waistband and not the skirt. Fold and iron the top of the waistband over 1/4". Fold over the waistband so that it covers the stitches from your last seam. Top stitch along the bottom and the top of the waistband. My waistband was too wide so I used two strips of elastic and made a second casing. Normally you will just have one elastic casing. Put a safety pin on the end of your elastic and feed it through the casing. Stop feeding the elastic through when there is just a tiny bit of elastic left at the opening. Sew a line down the side to keep the elastic in place. You can zig-zag the edge to make it extra secure. Pull the elastic all the way through the casing, remove the safety pin, and sew it down on the other end, just like you did with the first. (My skirt has 2 casings, but normally it should have 1 elastic casing) Now both the front and back of your skirt are done! Sew the skirt together by putting the front and back pieces together with right sides facing each other. Sew down each side. If you would like, serge or zigzag the edges. *If you want to add pockets, put them in before sewing up the sides. Hem the bottom of the skirt to your desired length. All done! Enjoy your new skirt!
