If you chose to use small bits of your shirts, this is how I handle them. In this case, I have 3 small rectangles to include in a block. I framed the first one... The next one is about the same size as the first, but I need some width, so I went ahead and framed it, too... I connected the two blocks and then squared them up... The thrid block is going on top. I measured the width needed to fill up the space on each side and added pieces...and squared up the block...and attached it to the other two blocks... Now, just a piece on top to finish 'er up! The whole process is kind of like improvisational piecing. You just keep going, adding what you need to make it work. Here are all the blocks lined up. You can tell the "Lions" in the second column is wide, and the last two columns have a couple of skinny blocks. The important thing is that most of the blocks are as close as possible. I'll take care of that problem now! You can also see that the last two columns are a little long. No problem! My first row was basically right on! No adjustments. Second row, I had to fix the "Lions" block. I line up the "fat" block with the skinny block I'm attaching it to, so that there's about equal amounts of "extra" on each side. After sewing them together with at 1/4" seam allowance, I then use my skinny block as a guide to remove the extra from the fat block. Repeat on the other side. Voila! Repeat with the rest of the columns! How did I fix the length of the last two columns? I was able to just cut off 1" from the bottom block without leaving it looking funny. The last row was a bit tricky because it was around 3" too long. I picked a few blocks and sewed another 1/4" seam inside the original seam to shorten the row a bit. Then just cut off the original 1/4" seam. I did this a few times and then was able to cut 1" off the top and bottom without making it look funny. One happy quilt top of blocks formerly known as t-shirts! I may or may not add a border...I'll measure and take into consideration shrinkage that will occur during machine quilting and make a decision. It's a pretty good size already and I'm pretty nervous about moving this thing around in my machine! Wish me luck! If you have any questions, let me know! I'd love to see any t-shirt quilts you make! Note: While I generally "take off" from the sashing to make things line up, I also had to add some fabric in two places: 1) to the width of the 4th block in the 3rd column (red with black and white polka dots) and 2) to the top and bottom of the 5th block in the 3rd column - funny thing is that I ended up chopping off that bit off the bottom anyway. Ya live and learn...
When I was a freshman at Texas A&M University, some students decided to sell $5 “Maroon Out” shirts the first year we played Nebraska in the Big 12 (1998). We wanted the whole stadium to be maroon to drown out all the red, so it was a mass produced shirt that everyone could easily afford. It became a thing, and lo and behold 20 years later, the company that makes the shirts re-released every Maroon Out Shirt and offered a package deal to buy them all. My dental buddy, and then-president of his local A&M club in Corpus Christi, offered to buy all 20 shirts if I’d make a quilt to donate to his club for a raffle. How could I say no? The box came! And I had some laundry to do, because maroon bleeds bad. I got all the shirts cut up and ironed on to the interfacing. Didn’t I say I’d never do another t-shirt quilt? And here it is! I needed a bit of filler in order to lay out the shirts in chronological order and get it big enough. I turned to Texas history and included the de Zavala flag, the Dodson flag, the current flag, and an outline of the state in maroon, all done with piecing and appliqué. I added a few borders and machine quilted it with a lattice pattern. I did a pieced backing with solid remnants. I don’t think it’s been sold at this point, but I hope it raises some money to help a deserving student with a scholarship!
I've realized since I started writing this tutorial just how "trial-and-error" this variable quilt is. It's hard to give concrete instructions like I would for a "cut-em-all-the-same-size" kind of t-shirt quilt. But onward I go. If it helps someone out, that's all I'm looking for... So, as I continue to add borders to each block, I work from the top left corner down so I can see how I'm doing on length. It's very important to keep an imaginary 3" border around each block so you can make sure one column is not super long leaving another column super short. The remedy for this? Move your blocks around. It's a giant puzzle and I didn't stop moving blocks around until I had 3 or so left to add borders to. You could establish the length with one row, but I hesitate to do that with the fear that I'll need to move a block and then it won't work out any more. At the same time, you have to worry about width. Notice how much more narrow the "11" block is than the one above it. The way to fix this is to increase your border fabric to 4" or more if necessary - measure! You can see in this picture that there is a complete row of bordered blocks on the top row. This is important to make sure you keep your established width. (If you're very observant, you can also see that I've moved blocks around!) As I try to keep the width consistent, I also move blocks that "fit" better in one row than another. I've ended up with a row for most of the wider blocks so they fit together well. I also have a narrow row. It's easier to group as many as possible like this so you don't have to add tons of border or take a bunch off. Here's an instance where it would be easier to trim a little off the left and right sides of that red block than to measure and figure out how to add the right amount of border, or to trim it off later and be left with a 1" border which would look funny. I had hoped to start sewing blocks together within columns, square those up, then sew the columns together but my leaky iron (Rowenta...) has stopped heating and it's replacement is not due from Fedex until tomorrow, so I must hold off. More tomorrow!
I've decided to go scrappy with my border fabric, so I started by laying out where I wanted the different fabrics to go. I cut 3" strips of the fabric for this block. I then sewed on strips to the short ends right sides together, pressed the seam, and squared up my block. I then sewed on the strips to the longer sides, pressed the seams, and squared up the final block. After 2 squares, I evaluate and so far, they turned out to be about the same width. Score! After the 3rd block, I wasn't so lucky. So I'm going to have to trim down the last block so it matches the width of the other two. I will do this later when I'm connecting the blocks. Don't do it now, because you may end up moving blocks around to make your length work and then you might regret it! No trimming until you absolutely have to! I'm going to continue doing this on this row. With the next row, I will do the same, but also evaluate the total length of the column. This is where moving blocks around will begin. I'll show you how I do this in a couple of weeks. I have to come to the realization that I am indeed in dental school and I have 10 finals in the next 2 weeks! So, farewell until then! I'll be done May 21st!
If you chose to use small bits of your shirts, this is how I handle them. In this case, I have 3 small rectangles to include in a block. I framed the first one... The next one is about the same size as the first, but I need some width, so I went ahead and framed it, too... I connected the two blocks and then squared them up... The thrid block is going on top. I measured the width needed to fill up the space on each side and added pieces...and squared up the block...and attached it to the other two blocks... Now, just a piece on top to finish 'er up! The whole process is kind of like improvisational piecing. You just keep going, adding what you need to make it work. Here are all the blocks lined up. You can tell the "Lions" in the second column is wide, and the last two columns have a couple of skinny blocks. The important thing is that most of the blocks are as close as possible. I'll take care of that problem now! You can also see that the last two columns are a little long. No problem! My first row was basically right on! No adjustments. Second row, I had to fix the "Lions" block. I line up the "fat" block with the skinny block I'm attaching it to, so that there's about equal amounts of "extra" on each side. After sewing them together with at 1/4" seam allowance, I then use my skinny block as a guide to remove the extra from the fat block. Repeat on the other side. Voila! Repeat with the rest of the columns! How did I fix the length of the last two columns? I was able to just cut off 1" from the bottom block without leaving it looking funny. The last row was a bit tricky because it was around 3" too long. I picked a few blocks and sewed another 1/4" seam inside the original seam to shorten the row a bit. Then just cut off the original 1/4" seam. I did this a few times and then was able to cut 1" off the top and bottom without making it look funny. One happy quilt top of blocks formerly known as t-shirts! I may or may not add a border...I'll measure and take into consideration shrinkage that will occur during machine quilting and make a decision. It's a pretty good size already and I'm pretty nervous about moving this thing around in my machine! Wish me luck! If you have any questions, let me know! I'd love to see any t-shirt quilts you make! Note: While I generally "take off" from the sashing to make things line up, I also had to add some fabric in two places: 1) to the width of the 4th block in the 3rd column (red with black and white polka dots) and 2) to the top and bottom of the 5th block in the 3rd column - funny thing is that I ended up chopping off that bit off the bottom anyway. Ya live and learn...
Photo quilts are no less than a memoir, carefully reflecting the happier bygone days with family and friends. With some simple steps, have such quilts made of your favorite photographs. …
This is a Slideshare presentation of photographs of T-shirt quilts made entirely from a particular high school or college T-shirts.
Learn how to use interfacing to tame stretchy t shirts and make them play nicely for quilting. Tutorial from NewQuilters.com #tshirt quilts #tshirt quilting DIY
Custom T-shirt quilts made to order! I make personalized memory quilts for the high school graduate, college graduate, athlete, coach, cancer survivor and more! What a great heirloom (and a great reason to get your closets cleaned out!) for the loved one on your list. THIS PARTICULAR QUILT INCLUDES YOUR CHOICE OF 20 SHIRT FRONTS OR BACKS. EACH FRONT OF BACK COUNTS AS A BLOCK. THIS LISTING IS FOR A 20-BLOCK QUILT!! FINISHED SIZE IS APPROXIMATELY 66"x86". Choice of sashings, borders, and backing is completely the choice of the customer. I will do whatever I can to find what you have in mind. I recommend a 100% cotton print or plaid for the front and typically use 100% cotton flannel for the back for a warm, snuggly, cozy quilt, but again, it is completely up to the customer! I can also do minky backing but there is an additional $25 charge for minky. You supply the shirts and I do the rest! These quilts are machine quilted in a "meandering" pattern to achieve maximum usefulness. They are machine washable. Please allow 8-12 weeks for delivery! Please message me with any questions or concerns. I do have other listings for different amounts of shirts, so please take a look at those as well. I look forward to helping you create memories that will last a lifetime! Thanks for looking!
I've noticed as I read my stats (yes, I'm a stat checker), that I get quite a few hits as people search for info about t-shirt quilts. Even though my first post about my Aggie t-shirt quilt sends you to a great site with instructions, I thought I'd do a running post as I make this quilt for my cousin Sarah as she graduates from Terrell High School to go off to Tarleton State University (a member of the Texas A&M University System - Whoop!). You know, just in case you would like to know how I make one. : ) Step one: Pick out your shirts and decide how to use them. It depends on how many shirts you have and what parts of them you plan to use as to how you proceed. Don't use shirts that have gaping holes in them, paint on them, stains, etc. ; ) Thin, worn shirts, and small holes are ok as the interfacing will actually help hold everything together. Decide what parts of the shirts you want to use. You may decide to use front and back and that will give you two blocks per shirt. Some shirts have only a small logo in the front pocket area and a bigger print on the back. You can use that small logo if you decide you're ok with a little more work. You may also decide to minimize the size of each block to the actual size of the writing on that shirt, making a smaller block. The only way to include smaller pieces/blocks, is with a variable t-shirt quilt (see quilt below). With this kind of quilt, the columns will have the same width, but there will not be any discernible rows. If there's writing on the sleeve or front pocket area that is small, you can still use it, you just have to improvise a bit more.Once you know how many shirt blocks and/or pieces will you have, you can determine how big your quilt is going to be. Based on your estimates, you can throw out shirts or add shirts to get the correct size. (It is best to make this decision before cutting!) Sarah gave me about 16 shirts to work with. I looked through them and threw out one that I thought was inappropriate (didn't fit in with the others and was kinda tacky) and found one that was a duplicate. No problem, I'll make a pillow out of that one. After grouping my small pieces and determining which fronts and backs to use, I have 3x5 blocks. To estimate quilt size, use the estimate of one full t-shirt front or back = 12-14" square block. Add your sashing (2-3 inches) and you can make a good estimate of what size quilt you can make. So, if you have 3 columns (x12) + 3 inch sashing (x3), your quilt without a border will be 45" wide. 5 rows (x12) + 3 inch sashing (x4) = 72" long (the length estimate will not hold true in a variable quilt - you can actually fit in more shirts because some shirts may be 1/2 the "length" of a block - see my Aggie quilt). You can always make bigger sashings and add a wide border to make a wider/longer quilt as needed. Plan ahead! Draw pictures! If you plan to have small pieces, think about how you can group them to make one "block" and consider them in that manner in your estimates. I think I'll add a border to the blocks as well as the quilt to make it a twin size quilt that she might be able use in her dorm room. (4x5 is probably a decent twin size in this case). Check out Goose Tracks' list of sizes if you don't want to do the math! Step two: Cut the shirts. This is the really hard part. Especially if they're your treasured shirts! I cut off the sleeves and then up the sides to the middle of the underarm. I leave the collar at this point, because you have to make sure you have a good 1/4 inch allowance after you decide how you want to cut your "block". Some printing can get really close to that collar. Part of the problem I have with using the same size blocks, is that the only way to leave 1/4" at the top and get the block as long as you need it, is to have a lot of blank t-shirt below your writing and I think that can look kinda funny some times. But it is easier. Step three: Plan your blocks. (I recommend a big open area for this one.) If you are not doing a variable t-shirt quilt (you didn't include any small blocks or pocket areas or sleeve portions of your shirts), simply measure the writing, adding 1/2" on the width and length of each shirt's printed area. The longest width and the longest length = the width and length each of your blocks has to be. All you have to do is decide on how to arrange each block in your quilt, and you can even do that after cutting and applying the interfacing. So you're done for now! As you can see in my Aggie quilt, there are not precise rows. The only way to make sure each column comes out the same length is to play around with your shirt placement until it works! The best way to prepare your shirts so you can decide on how to cut each one is to pin them and do a lot of finagling. I make a temporary decision on how I want to frame the writing/picture on a particular t-shirt. I fold over the top and bottom... then the sides. I pin the corners so it will stay in place as I move things around later on. I like to get fairly close to the item of interest (always leaving a frame and of course 1/4 inch seam allowance) because I don't want to take up a lot of room with t-shirt unless I need to. I want to fit as many t-shirts in as possible! You may have to pin the top, bottom and sides as well to add stability. Here's a shirt all pinned and ready to move around: Step four: Arrange your blocks.I leave an imaginary sashing (the fabric that will frame my blocks) between the blocks as I lay them out. At this point, I can see approximately how big my quilt is going to be and arrange the blocks in a pleasing way according to color and content (mainly color). This is a lot of red, but I'm going to make the pattern of colors more organized with the borders I use. It turns out that, even though I've used the variable t-shirt method on this quilt, there are pretty obvious rows. I will have to make some adjustments in my border fabrics, though to make sure everything lines up perfectly. The goal with the height in a variable t-shirt quilt is to end up with all of the columns being the same length. You have to be a little free form with it and experiment with different lengths for each shirt. You have to treat it like a puzzle and move shirts around until it all fits pretty close within the size of your quilt. To do this, you may have to add extra sashing. It takes more time and thinking, but I think the result looks great if you take the time and do it right! Well, this is all I've done so far! This week, in the Cutting Phase, I plan to cut my blocks out, iron on the interfacing, and maybe cut my border fabric! Dig out those t-shirts you've been saving up and join me! And feel free to ask any questions you might have about the process!
I've been creating traditional quilts since High School. When it comes to quilting, I am a novice at BEST, but it is something that I...
I finished the binding in the weee hours of the morning! :) I sewed quite a bit of the binding back while watching Game 5 of the Calder Cup Finals on the NHL Channel. The NHL Channel is a bit of an extravagance for us~but I have really enjoyed watching the hockey games this past season and now they are broadcasting the end of the AHL season. Oh how I wish my Milwaukee Admirals were in the finals~it would be so cool to *see* them on national tv. :) This quilt is a rather large and fills up the family room. ummm...try to ignore the *stuff* that hangs out in my family room. A close-up of two of the blocks. pattern source: LindaJ's Sorta T*Shirt Tutorial panto source: Inkblot from Willow Leaf Studio
Cold, rainy days of May are good for quilting!
T-shirt Quilts: New Addition: My newest quilt finished in 2014 for the Harley Davidson lover in my family. This collection of T-shirts was soooo large I decided to make a two-sided quilt. This was great for including all the favorites but proved to be a challenge…
Linking up with Melissa at A Day In the Life of a Mom and a Wife for The Pinterest Project. Head on over and share your pinterest inspi...
Here is a free quilt pattern on how to make to make the 1+2 quilt. It's a simple quilt pattern and can be made quite quickly. A perfect quilt pattern for beginners. The instructions I will give you will make a single (twin) bed size quilt. This quilt pattern is also easily adjustable - add another row and a couple of columns and you will have a Queen size bed quilt pattern. To make this quilt, you will need a layer cake and 2 yards of a solid fabric - hence the name 1+2. For those of you who aren't familiar with the term layer cake, no I'm not talking about an actual cake. Rather, it's a gorgeous pack put out by Moda Fabrics of 42 squares of a range of fabric. Each square measures 10" x 10". Cutting Instructions: From your layer cake, choose 7 random squares. Cut these into 4 x 5" squares (so cut in half long ways and then in half side ways) The white solid fabric needs to be cut 3" wide by the width of the fabric (WOF). Cut all of your yardage into 3" strips. Assembly Instructions: Take one of these strips and cross cut 2 x 5" strips and 2 x 10" strips. These will be the borders around your small squares. Using a 1/4" seam, sew the 5" strips to the top and bottom of your square. Press outwards. Next, sew the 10" strips on the remaining sides and press. This is your finished block which should measure 10" Repeat this for the rest of your small squares until you have 28 completed blocks. Now the fun begins! You're going to sew a 10" layer cake square to one of your newly finished blocks. Choose the squares randomly. Take another 10" layer cake square and sew to the other side of the bordered block. Then another bordered block and so on... You will need 7 to make up a row. The next row will begin with a bordered block then a 10" layer square then a bordered block etc... Row 3 will be the same as the first row. You get the picture. You don't want to have 10" fabric squares or the bordered blocks adjoining. You will need to have 7 squares across and 8 rows down. Sew these together and the press your seams well. Your quilt top is finished! I opted for extra wide fabric so that I wouldn't have to piece the back - but the choice is yours. I won't go into detail about how I baste, quilt or add the binding on my quilts as there are many of fantastic tutorials out there on the web. If you do get stuck and need help locating the information, drop me an email and I'm more than happy to point you in the right direction. I think straight line quilting would look great with this quilt design, but as straight lines are my nemesis, I opted for a meandering swirly pattern. I am very, very pleased with how it turned out. It's going to be soft and crinkly and most importantly - snuggly! Attach your binding. I used double fold binding as this quilt will be for my daughter, so I'm foreseeing lots of wear and tear for years to come :-) And there you have it. A free and easy quilt pattern, which you can make in a weekend. If you use this tutorial, please feel free to add your photos to the Samelia’s Mum Flickr pool. I'd love to see them :-)
My Dear Daughter Quilt for my Dear Daughter:)
I knew I wanted to make my son a t-shirt quilt, so I saved some of his t-shirts over the years. When I started laying them out, I realized I had more than I needed. I also realized that I had seve…
The Four Patch quilt block is the king block for every beginner quilter. It is possibly the first block you will ever learn once you pick up quilting. I just adore it. And its scrappy version is ju…
Happy Wednesday everyone. Today, I finished piecing the T-shirt quilt. I tried to use the 10 shirts to their best advantage. I wanted it to be long so it ended up being narrow. I added the two side…
T-shirt Quilts: New Addition: My newest quilt finished in 2014 for the Harley Davidson lover in my family. This collection of T-shirts was soooo large I decided to make a two-sided quilt. This was great for including all the favorites but proved to be a challenge…
Your Laser or Inkjet Printer Can Produce Wonderful Results! With so many beautiful fabrics to choose from at the quilt store, it’s hard to imagine why you’d want to print your own. However, your printed designs can add truly special touches to a quilt. For example, photos are often printed on fabric and added to …
photo quilt ideas, graduation quilt, How to make a photo quilt, free quilting pattern, how to print photos on fabric, graduation gift ideas
I finally, finally, finished up my t-shirt quilt over the weekend. Talk about a project! This was the most difficulty
There are lots of tiny flowers and bits in Alabama Chanin's Abby's Flower stencil, making it somewhat tricky to work with, but I love it! The blossoms seem to float and hover about, like petals in the wind. Inspired by the beautiful couture dresses with appliqued organza butterflies and flowers, edges free-floating, I used the Abby's Flower stencil in conjunction with the Negative Reverse Applique technique to achieve these flowing edges. I wanted the top layer to be white, so I didn't want to paint the stencil on. I used a gray Sharpie to outline the elements. I like the way it accentuates and crisps up the pattern shapes. It reminds me of the inked and quilted method. Usually I try to stitch around all the edges of the elements, but there were so many smaller pieces that I ended up running stitches up the middle of some elements or hatch stitching some parts. I used a creamy colored floss to put French knots in the middles of some flowers. After completing the stitching and cutting away all the negative space, I was stumped as to what color to use for the binding. I posed the question to the fun and helpful Alabama Chanin group on Facebook, The School of Making Stitchalong. If you haven't discovered this group yet, please look them up! There is a wealth of knowledge, wonderful conversations, feedback, and positive support from all the participants in this group. White, ocher, suede, faded, or couched faded? I practically changed my mind with each comment. The overwhelming support was for the tone on tone, suede. My friend had the idea of suede trim, rosebud stitch, and white French knots. I stitched up the suede trim with the rosebud stitch. I still need to get my book out to refresh my memory and get started. Here's the neckline completely tone on tone. I liked it, was about to get out my white floss for French knots, then suddenly had the idea of using the beautiful cotton gauze tape in ecru that I had in my stash. I used a very large needle and simply slipped it underneath the rosebud stitching. I'm not sure how it will launder, but if it's a fail, the ribbon can easily be pulled out and replaced. Also, this ribbon does not stretch, so don't try this in an area that you need to have stretch! I may go in and put the suede binding on the hem. I wouldn't put the ribbon on that, though. I think it may cut me in half too much, shortening my frame up even more. For now, I'll wear this top with jeans, my basic suede pants and skirt, and over cream and white dresses. I may layer it up over a long-sleeved white T-shirt during the cold weather. This skirt would also be nice. I'm happy with the little extra pop the ribbon gives, without adding extra busyness and fuss. If the shirt were plain, it might look cute to leave long tails on the ribbon and tie it with a knot or tiny bow somewhere along the neckline. I'll let you know how the ribbon fares in the wash with future updates.
This quilt is sure to become a favorite! It's a new Shortcut Quilt featuring the Layer Cake Custard FREE Pattern and video tutorial! The Layer Cake Check out the Layer Cake Custard quilt, a new Shortcut Quilt from Fat Quarter Shop using 10" squares!
It was fun to be included in Kate's 100 Quilts for Kids flickr mosaic (see here ). My sherbet pips quilt is all washed up and ready to go. ...
Custom Keepsake Quilts email to: [email protected]
How to Make a No-Sew T-Shirt Blanket: This Instructable will show you how to make a t-shirt blanket without needing a sewing machine. T-shirt blankets are a great way to preserve memories and make use of your old t-shirts. I made my blanket because I don't know how to sew, but I didn't …
Shadow Box Quilt Free Tutorial! A lot of my quilting buddies wanted to know how this was made, and since it's such an easy quilt, I decided to share it as a free tutorial! You'll need to decide what color you want to use for your shadows and border, and what color you want to use for your background. (I chose black shadows and a white background.) From your background fabric, cut: 48 squares 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" 5 squares 2" x 2" 28 strips 2" x 9-1/2" 30 strips 2" x 11" From your shadow fabric, cut: 24 strips 1-1/2" x 7-1/2" 24 strips 1-1/2" x 8-1/2" (Outside border is cut 4-1/2" wide on my quilt.) Next, cut 24 squares from all different fabrics @ 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" Now you'll sew one of your small white squares to your 7-1/2" long shadow strip for the bottom of each square: Next you'll sew one of your small white squares to your 8-1/2" shadow strip for the side of the square: Sew the bottom strip to the scrappy square, and then the side. It will look like this: Now you'll add your sashing parts. First, to the bottom of the square above, you will add one of your 2" x 9-1/2" strips of background fabric. Then to the left side of the square you will add one of your 2" x 11" strips of background fabric. Sew 4 blocks together per row, and finish the row with a final 2" x 11" strip of background. Make 6 rows like that, and sew them together, adding a final set of 9-1/2" background strips with 2" squares of background fabric to your top row, and then your outter border, so that it looks like this: Your finished quilt will be about 51-1/2" x 72-1/2" Happy Quilting! Jean MaDan Another great quilt by Candace Wragg, using my tutorial. Terrific job, as usual! This one is made by Gloria Hooker. Wonderful! Love that red!! Loretta Webre made hers in shades of blue, and one block wider. Loretta said: I'd like to tell you a little about why I made this quilt for my Godmother. You see, my mother died when I was 9, and I have always been very close to my Godmother, my mother's sister, as she was always there for me. I really consider her my 2nd mother, and don't believe I would be the woman I am today, were it not for her love and guidance. Her favorite color is blue, and she celebrated her 75th birthday on the 6th of Sept. I wanted to make the quilt for her as soon as I found your pattern, but Hurricane Isaac intervened and really messed up my plans. I had a house full of people, who could not get home due to flooding, no power for 6 days, and no running water. A very stressful time, to say the least. Making this quilt was great therapy. I delivered it to my Aunt yesterday and she and my Uncle absolutely loved the quilt. She asked about the pattern, and I explained how I saw it on your blog. I named the quilt Out of the Blues. I think I'll make another one using LSU purple and gold, with tiger faces as the main blocks. Thank you, again. Loretta Ellen Boisvert sent me this brilliant adaptation of the idea she did, using panels. I thought mitering the corners of the shadows was pretty cool looking, don't you??
Check out my latest baby clothes quilt pictures, t shirt quilt images, memorial quilt pics and more! Visit Jelly Bean Quilts today!
