Cut and come again flowers are long blooming annuals that produce new stems all season long, rewarding the gardener with a bountiful harvest.
Clare Foster explains how to grow dahlias, how to care for them, whether they are perennials, and chooses favourite varieties
Home from a creative week in Sisters, Oregon at the oldest (30+ years) and the biggest outdoor quilt festival in the world. The week started with Quilters Affair and 5 days full of classes from 30 teachers from all over the world. Every quilting technique imaginable was represented from the Modern Quilt movement to tradition hand quilting. Truly something for everyone. Below are pictures from my classes. I taught Hibiscus as a 2 day class, Bird of Paradise (1 day) and my new pattern, Hidden Beach (2 days), which was a hit. Look at the beautiful hand-dyed fabrics this student made before she came to class. This is Tim with his beautiful flower. When the class is making a big mess you know they are in the zone. In the Hidden Beach class I tried something new. No paint by numbers this time. It was all improvisational free cutting to make this beachscape. I was a little concerned about changing my teaching style without the students knowing what they were getting into but the students loved it. This technique gave them more creative freedom and they embraced it. We used a lot of free cutting with the rotary cutter which is the technique I used for the water in my Monterey and beach quilts. Monterey We started with the beach, water, and sky for the first layer. Then we made the rolling hill and path. Then they did the tree layer. About half of the class did there own interpretation of there Hidden Beach or lake or river. It was so exciting. Candi finishing her beach. This is one of the hazards of the job: fabric sticking in places you don't want. Isn't this wonderful? She brought a picture for inspiration. She is now adding her trees. This student is making cypress trees at her beach. Here they are. Wonderful interpretation of cypress trees. Best part is that the NEW Steam A Seam 2 arrived in time for me to bring to Sisters for these classes. It is new and improved and I think you are going to like it. I haven't sewn through it yet but I will blog about that in a few weeks. Here she added more rocks and dirt showing on the rolling hill. Love it! Now layer 3, the limbs of the trees. I told them to add a punch of color as you make your trees. All right! Her Hidden Beach is a beautiful lake in Oregon. This was so much fun and I can't wait to teach Hidden Beach again! This is my class sample.
Craspedia globosa 'Golf Beauty' (Billy Buttons) is an evergreen perennial forming a narrow rosette of silver-green linear foliage covered in woolly hairs. Blooming year-round in warm climates, a profusion of cute golden-yellow flowers resembling small golf balls, 1 in. across (2.5 cm), are borne atop stiff flower stalks reaching 2-3 ft. (60-90 cm). Hardy to 20ºF (-6ºC), Billy Buttons are fairly undemanding, pest and disease resistant, and their eye-catching shape adds interest to the sunny garden or to a table arrangement.
New things, old favorites, and previews of what’s to come! Check it out to learn about mignonette, Jewels of Opar, Tower china asters, and other glorious things I tucked into the corners here and there.
Love bouquets and centerpieces? Grow your own flowers for display by checking out tips on How to Grow an Amazing Cut Flower Garden.
Filler flowers - an essential part of the cutting garden for bouquets and wedding designs, and I'd have countless varieties if I had the space for them! However, I'm working with just a few beds, and have to be very selective about what I grow. I'm growing no more than about 15 different fillers and
Learn how to grow Salpiglossis—commonly called painted tongue, a cool-summer annual with colorful marbled or streaked flowers.
Gorgeous black foliage and richly colored 3-4” single blooms, good mildew resistance and its reliable perennial-ness makes this a Dahlia to lust for! Variable colors, but reds and oranges are most common in the bloom department. To 3’ tall and bushy, it doesn’t need that silly staking either. If dead-headed, it’ll bloom all Summer into Fall providing great garden contrast, lots of cut flowers and a great pollen source for bumblebees! Great in a container too – 7 gallon size and up.
Winterizing your garden includes trimming back some perennials and leaving others until spring. Our experts tell you what to do to ensure success.
7 Tips for Growing Gladiolus - Here's a couple of tips to help you get the biggest bang for your buck when it comes to growing Gladiolus.
This listing is for Crown Cuttings which include some root and at least 1 growing leaf bud. They will establish a plant much easier and quicker than root cuttings. Mulch – can be cut several times per year to about 2 inches above ground and used as a green or “chop and drop” mulch. Avoid harvest in the first season. Liquid Fertilizer - steeping chopped Comfrey leaves in water for several weeks produces a thick, dark liquid that can be diluted with water and fed to plants. Deep Roots Mineral Accumulator – high in potassium, but also phosphorus, calcium, Copper, Iron, and Magnesium Ground Cover – lower growing species can tolerate some foot traffic, plant 2-3 feet apart. Attracts hummingbirds and especially bees- nectar and pollen plant Lacewings prefer to lay eggs on Comfrey Spiders prefer to overwinter on Comfrey Parasitoid Wasps and Spiders prefer to spend time and hunt on and around Comfrey. Comfrey has long been recognized by both organic gardeners and herbalists for its great usefulness and versatility; of particular interest is the "Bocking 14" cultivar of Russian Comfrey. This strain was developed during the 1950s by Lawrence D Hills, the founder of the Henry Doubleday Research Association (the organic gardening organisation itself named after the Quaker pioneer who first introduced Russian Comfrey into Britain in the nineteenth century) following trials at Bocking, near Braintree, the original home of the organization. The comfrey bed should be well prepared by weeding thoroughly, and dressing with manure if available. Offsets should be planted 0.6–1 m (2 ft 0 in–3 ft 3 in) apart with the growing points just below the surface, while root segments should be buried about 5 cm (2.0 in) deep. Keep the bed well watered until the young plants are established. Comfrey should not be harvested in its first season as it needs to become established. Any flowering stems should be removed as these will weaken the plant in its first year. Comfrey is a fast-growing plant, producing huge amounts of leaf during the growing season, and hence is very nitrogen hungry. Although it is a tenacious grower, it will benefit from the addition of animal manure applied as a mulch, and can also be mulched with other nitrogen rich materials such as lawn clippings, and is one of the few plants that will tolerate the application of fresh urine diluted 50:50 with water, although this should not be regularly added as it may increase salt levels in the soil and have adverse effects on soil life such as worms. Mature comfrey plants can be harvested up to four or five times a year. They are ready for cutting when about 60 cm (24 in) high, and, depending on seasonal conditions, this is usually in mid-Spring. Comfrey will rapidly regrow, and will be ready for further cutting about 5 weeks later. It is said that the best time to cut comfrey is shortly before flowering, for this is when it is at its most potent in terms of the nutrients that it offers. Comfrey can continue growing into mid-autumn, but it is not advisable to continue taking cuttings after early autumn in order to allow the plants to build up winter reserves. After the growing season, leaving comfrey beds fallow may deliver higher yields in future harvests, as the plant builds up energy reserves in its roots. Comfrey should be harvested by using either shears, a sickle, or a scythe to cut the plant about 2 inches above the ground, taking care handling it because the leaves and stems are covered in hairs that can irritate the skin. It is advisable to wear gloves when handling comfrey. Despite being sterile, Bocking 14 Russian Comfrey will steadily increase in size. It is therefore advisable to split it up every few years. It is however difficult to remove comfrey once established as it is very deep rooting, and any fragments left in the soil will regrow. Rotovation can be successful, but may take several seasons. The best way to eradicate comfrey is to very carefully dig it out, removing as much of the root as possible. This is best done in hot, dry summer weather, wherein the dry conditions will help to kill off any remaining root stumps. Comfrey is generally trouble free once established, although weaker or stressed plants can suffer from comfrey rust or mildew. Both are fungal diseases, although they rarely seriously reduce plant growth and thus do not generally require control. However infected plants should not be used for propagation purposes. Comfrey is a particularly valuable source of fertility to the organic gardener. It is very deep rooted and acts as a dynamic accumulator,[6] mining a host of nutrients from the soil. These are then made available through its fast-growing leaves (up to 1.8–2.3 kilograms (4.0–5.1 lb) per plant per cut) which, lacking fibres, quickly break down to a thick black liquid. There is also no risk of nitrogen robbery when comfrey is dug into the soil as the C:N ratio of the leaves is lower than that of well-rotted compost. Comfrey is an excellent source of potassium, an essential plant nutrient needed for flower, seed and fruit production. Its leaves contain 2–3 times more potassium than farmyard manure, mined from deep in the subsoil, tapping into reserves that would not normally be available to plants. There are various ways in which comfrey can be used as a fertilizer. These include: Comfrey as a compost activator – include comfrey in the compost heap to add nitrogen and help to heat the heap. Comfrey should not be added in quantity as it will quickly break down into a dark sludgy liquid that needs to be balanced with more fibrous, carbon-rich material. Comfrey liquid fertilizer – can be produced by either rotting leaves down in rainwater for 4–5 weeks to produce a ready-to-use "comfrey tea", or by stacking dry leaves under a weight in a container with a hole in the base. When the leaves decompose a thick black comfrey concentrate is collected. This must be diluted at 15:1 before use. Comfrey as a mulch or side dressing – a two-inch layer of comfrey leaves placed around a crop will slowly break down and release plant nutrients; it is especially useful for crops that need extra potassium, such as fruit bearers but also reported to do well for potatoes. Comfrey can be slightly wilted before application optionally but either way, avoid using flowering stems as these can root. Comfrey as a companion plant for trees and other perennials – soil tests confirm that soil nutrients increase in the presence of comfrey even when it is not used as mulch, side dressing, or liquid fertilizer, but just allowed to grow. Comfrey potting mixture – originally devised to utilize peat, now environmental awareness has led to a leaf mold-based alternative being adopted instead; two-year-old, well decayed leaf mold should be used, this will absorb the nutrient-rich liquid released by the decaying comfrey. In a black plastic sack alternate 7–10 cm (2.8–3.9 in) layers of leaf mold and chopped comfrey leaves. Add a little dolomitic limestone to slightly raise pH. Leave for between 2–5 months depending on the season, checking that it does not dry out or become too wet. The mixture is ready when the comfrey leaves have rotted and are no longer visible. Use as a general potting compost, although it is too strong for seedlings.
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Craspedia was a new flower I grew in the 2022-2023 season. I was blown away, to say the least. They produced strong, loli-pop blooms that were the perfect addition to all my spring bouquets. The plants stayed on the short side, like a clump of grass, with blooms reaching 18” tall. some people call t
Come discover the 18 best fall flowers to grow in your garden for autumn blooms. Some may grow through winter in mild climates too!
Hardy annuals are hardworking, productive plants for late spring and early summer. This post highlights new varieties for 2020, and other favorites.
Can you grow Baby's Breath? I love gardening. And, I love growing new plants. But, I'm always hesitant to try something new. Check out how easy it is!
Love bouquets and centerpieces? Grow your own flowers for display by checking out tips on How to Grow an Amazing Cut Flower Garden.
Learn how to create everblooming flower gardens that are colorful all year round with this detailed how-to guide for perennials made easy!
Bearded iris plants are prone to diseases and pests that damage the leaves. Learn when to cut back irises to keep them beautiful and healthy.
Scissor salad is a fun way to practice how to use scissors and build fine motor scissor cutting skills. Get free labels and worksheets!
TEST NEJLEPŠÍCH KŘOVINOŘEZŮ roku 2023! 🥇 V přehledných žebříčcích vám představíme NEJLEPŠÍ KŘOVINOŘEZY i s jejich parametry 🔝
Strawflowers are such a unique and stunning cut flower. I’ll share my tips on growing strawflowers from seed indoors, how to transplant them into the garden, and much more.
These hardy perennials can thrive in part sun, full sun or shade, high heat or freezing temperatures, and still bloom beautifully every year.
Sow these flower seeds in fall for beautiful blooms the following spring and summer.
Plant these veggies once and you can pluck, snip and tear nutrient rich food off all season while your veggies grow back even stronger.
See SharePoint intranet examples that will cut your research time and help you brainstorm ideas for a new Office 365 intranet.
Each year an especially beautiful, useful and sturdy plant is selected as Perennial Plant of the Year by the Perennial Plant Association, which is made up of landscape designers, contractors, growers, retailers, and educators in the herbaceous perennial industry. 'Rozanne' hardy geranium was selected as the 2008 Perennial Plant of the Year. In addition to this award, 'Rozanne' was selected as Plant of the Centenary at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Truly this is an amazing plant to receive such honors, and I have nearly twenty of them growing in my landscape. What is it that makes this plant so useful? It grows in zones 5-8 in sun or part shade. The long bloom time is amazing - from June until an October hard frost in my garden, with no deadheading necessary. The spent flowers just curl up and disappear without leaving an ugly mess. It doesn't reseed or spread outside of its original clump. Basically it's like a perennial Supertunia - loads of color for months with very little maintenance, but then it comes back the next year. It makes a nice companion for hydrangeas like 'Tiny Tuff Stuff,' above. It mixes nicely with many other colors, including the steel blue of ornamental thistle (Echinops 'Ritro'). Yellow myrtle spurge (Euphorbia myrsinitis) is another good match for 'Rozanne.' Even though it starts blooming with the roses in June, 'Rozanne' is still blooming when the Japanese anemones flower in fall. 'Rozanne' happily winds through taller shrubs like this corkscrew hazel (Corylus avellana 'Contorta'). At the end of fall when leaves from surrounding trees are falling, 'Rozanne' continues to flower until a hard frost finally sends it into dormancy for winter. Some sources say 'Rozanne' has good fall color, but I've only noticed a little bit of red on my plants in fall. Here it is next to a 'Shasta' doublefile viburnum (V. plicatum tomentosum). With all of these good attributes, are there any drawbacks to including a 'Rozanne' geranium in your garden? Well, it's rampant growth might be a challenge in a small garden. Some sources suggest planting it 12" apart, but I think that's much too close. In the first year after planting it may stay in a small clump like the one above . . . . . . but a few years after planting it may grow to six feet wide, like the plant above in my front yard. Unlike many other groundcovers, the stems don't root at nodes. And as I mentioned earlier, 'Rozanne' doesn't send out spreading rhizomes or reseed. The plant will die back to the ground in winter and start growing in spring from a small clump, but those stems sure grow long by the end of the season! I'd recommend giving it at least three feet of room to grow, and even then you'll need to trim it back before the end of the season. Another challenge with 'Rozanne' is finding the perfect amount of light. This plant is too shaded, so you can see how it's grown too tall and flopped over to expose the unsightly base. But with too much hot sun or not enough water the leaves will get scorched by midsummer. You can cut it back hard after a heatwave has left it crunchy and it will sprout fresh leaves. But my plants that grow in morning sun with afternoon shade keep a nice shape and fresh leaves throughout the growing season. 'Rozanne' is not reliably deer resistant, so it might not be the best choice if you have deer problems. It does attract lots of honey bees and bumble bees, so if you're allergic you shouldn't plant this in your yard. But I recommend this plant to almost all of my friends for their gardens. Even if it requires a little trimming to control the size, its long season of color with little maintenance makes it a valuable addition to nearly every garden. It is one of my favorites, and well deserving of the honors it has received.
Learn how to plant, grow, and care for Veronica (speedwell). Discover types suitable for containers, borders, rock gardens, and cut flowers.
