Haugesund sweater is knitted in baby alpaca air together with brushed alpaca silk. This sweater is a tribute to my hometown! It represent the sea where we live, as well as the seagulls we have in the city coat of arms. If you are going to knit the sweater a bit longer, I recommend an extra ball in the following sizes: Size XXS/XS: 1 ball brushed alpaca silk and 1 ball in Garnhimmelen superfine alpaca / Baby Alpaca Air Size L: 1 ball of brushed alpaca silk and 1 ball of Garnhimmelen superfine alpaca / Baby Alpaca Air Please note that it is important to have the right knitting tension, as it also affects the amount of yarn. It is recommended to knit a swatch of 10x10 cm to determine this. Sizes XXS/XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL/3XL) EXTRA NOTE: XXS/XS and 2XL/3XL fit the same size Bust width 87 (98) 109 (120) 131 (142) cm Length 57 (59) 61 (63) 64 (65) cm from top of shoulder Needles Circular needle 7 mm and 9 mm, 40 and 80 possibly 100 cm Gauge: On needles 9 mm: 11 stitches = 10 cm Sleeve: 43 (44) 44 (44) 45 (45) cm from under sleeve Material Garnhimmelen superfine alpaca (colour Petrol) or Baby Alpaca Air (colour ochre/natural white) together with Drops brushed alpaca silk. Sand model w/white or orange Basic colour: Baby Alpaca Air 1315 sand, 200 (250) 250 (250) 250 (300) together with Drops brushed alpaca silk 4 light beige, 75 (100) 100 (100) 125 (125) g Color 1: Baby Alpaca Air 2317 brown, 50 (50) 50 (50) 100 (100) g together with Drops brushed alpaca silk 5 brown beige, 25 (25) 25 (25) 25 (50) g Color 2: Baby Alpaca Air 2325 black, 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (50) g together with Drops brushed alpaca silk 1 black, 25 (25) 25 (25) 25 (25) g Color 3: single thread Baby Alpaca Air 811 natural white 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (50) g or double thread Puno petit 2901 dark mustard yellow 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (50) g Currency in this webshop shop is NOK, Norwegian krones. Please read under FAQ for more information about postage and customs.
This light mohair top is a pleasure to wear because it is warm and very light. The entire pattern is supported with a line drawing which shows the number of stitches. Refer to the line drawing at all steps. Person in the picture wears size M/L. Also available as a pattern. Kit contents (based on the colors in the picture for size S/M, M/L (L/XL) (XL/XXL) • Free pattern (pdf by e-mail)• 2 balls MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Powder Pink • 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Neon Pink • 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Off White (+1 XL/XXL)• 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Light Pink (+1 XL/XXL) • 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Candy Pink • 1 ball MYPZ Champaign White (+1 L/XL & XL/XXL)Sizes: S/M, M/L, L/XL and XL/XXLS/M: length: ± 58 cm | width: ± 54 cmM/L: length: ± 58 cm | width: ± 56 cmL/XL: length: ± 60 cm | width: ± 58 cmXL/XXL: length: ± 62 cm | width: ± 60 cmTIP> Are you knitting loosely? Choose a size smaller. Knitting needles (+ €18 optional):Knitting needles with a length of ±40cm (or circular):• 8mm (UK 0 / US 11)• 10mm (UK 000 / US 15) Remaining materials (not included):• Tapestry needle• Scissors
How ARE you angels?
Late summer last year, I said goodbye to my old white farmhouse with the towering maples, my home in some form or another since the age of two. It was a necessary and desired move, but the kind that mingles joy and pain. Bittersweet. In leaving, I left behind all of my life’s rhythms. My maples, my deer-trodden moss beds, the ferns by the rock wall, my Queen Anne’s lace, my yarrow. Inspired by this transition, I designed this hat, adorned with my beloved wildflowers, to represent the rewilding and growth of life. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS 18½” 47 cm circumference and 8¼” 21 cm high To fit the average adult with 1” to 4” 2.5 to 10 cm of negative ease for a comfortably snug fit. YARN Phinela Sport by Mindful Folk Farm (60% Finn sheep, 40% kid mohair; 350 yards 320 meters / 100 grams): Main color (MC): 170 yards 155 meters in Chocolate Contrasting color (CC): 40 yards 35 meters in Silver Fox OR same yardages of sport-weight yarn of your choice in 2 colorways Photographs by Hannah Welling.
Free Knitting Patterns Online to Download. 19 Websites for all free knitting patterns that you can download free!
Friend of the Forest Hood Size Medium This particular design represents a perfect confluence of events; first, I got a request for a hooded cowl with a rounded crown, and then I found this rather spectacular alpaca yarn in the sale bin at my local yarn shop and knew that it would be perfect for the job. And if that isn't delightful enough, I also played a harrowing game of yarn chicken and managed to finish this medium size hood with just two skeins of the yarn. As you'll notice, however, I recommend a bit extra if you're making this size - unless, of course, you like to live as dangerously as I do. ;) Sizes: Small (Medium; Large) (Small is perfect for toddlers & young children; medium for large children, teens, and small adults; large for large adults or simply a fuller-fitting hood) Yarn: Lana Grossa Alta Moda Alpaca (90% Alpaca, 5% Virgin Wool, 5% Polyamide; 153 yards [140 meters]/50 grams); #035 Lime Sherbet - 2 skeins (3 skeins; 3 skeins) A better look at the back finish. Short rows give it a nice rounded seam. Needles: one 16" circular needle in size US 9, one set of double pointed needles (dpns) in size US 9 for three needle bind off (you can also use regular straight needles and your circular needle for your third) Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch marker Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette So let's make a hood thingy thing! And let's start by casting on 96 (108; 120) stitches loosely, placing marker, and joining it in the round. Next, purl four rows around as edging. And once that's done, knit until knit section measures roughly 4" (4.5"; 5"). Then we'll work a few transition rows, as follows: Transition Row 1: * k10, k2tog; rep from * (88; 99; 110 stitches) Transition Row 2: knit Transition Row 3: * k9, k2tog * (80; 90; 100 stitches) Transition Row 4: knit Knit transition rows 1 - 4. At this point, you're going to stop knitting in the round, and instead knit back and forth from the stitch marker (you're still going to need your circular needle to do this, however, since otherwise you'll rip your work apart at the break). Anyway, so we'll continue like so: Row 1 (wrong side): k1, purl until you have 1 stitch left in row, k1 Row 2: knit Knit rows 1 & 2 until piece measures 6" (7"; 8") from where you started knitting back and forth and you've just finished a wrong side row. Now we'll begin working short rows to shape the crown of the hat (here's a short row technique refresher if you need one). Since I run my own website and don't risk running out of space, I've given the short row directions for each size separately. So find your size below and work as given! Size Small Short Row 1 (right side): k39, wrap and turn (w&t) Short Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, & 20: purl until you have 1 stitch left in row, k1 Short Row 3: k38, w&t Short Row 5: k37, w&t Short Row 7: k36, w&t Short Row 9: k34, w&t Short Row 11: k32, w&t Short Row 13: k30, w&t Short Row 15: k28, w&t Short Row 17: k26, w&t Short Row 19: k24, w&t Short Row 21: knit (not actually a short row!) Short Row 22: k1, p38, w&t Short Rows 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, & 39, & 41: knit until end of row Short Row 24: k1, p37, w&t Short Row 26: k1, p36, w&t Short Row 28: k1, p35, w&t Short Row 30: k1, p33, w&t Short Row 32: k1, p31, w&t Short Row 34: k1, p29, w&t Short Row 36: k1, p27, w&t Short Row 38: k1, p25, w&t Short Row 40: k1, p23, w&t Short Row 42: k1, purl until 1 stitch left in row, k1 (not actually a short row!) Size Medium Short Row 1 (right side): k44, wrap and turn (w&t) Short Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, & 22: purl until you have 1 stitch left in row, k1 Short Row 3: k43, w&t Short Row 5: k42, w&t Short Row 7: k41, w&t Short Row 9: k40, w&t Short Row 11: k38, w&t Short Row 13: k36, w&t Short Row 15: k34, w&t Short Row 17: k32, w&t Short Row 19: k30, w&t Short Row 21: k28, w&t Short Row 23: knit (not actually a short row!) Short Row 24: k1, p43, w&t Short Rows 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, & 43, & 45: knit until end of row Short Row 26: k1, p42, w&t Short Row 28: k1, p41, w&t Short Row 30: k1, p40, w&t Short Row 32: k1, p39, w&t Short Row 34: k1, p37, w&t Short Row 36: k1, p35, w&t Short Row 38: k1, p33, w&t Short Row 40: k1, p31, w&t Short Row 42: k1, p29, w&t Short Row 44: k1, p27, w&t Short Row 46: k1, purl until 1 stitch left in row, k1 (not actually a short row!) Size Large Short Row 1 (right side): k49, wrap and turn (w&t) Short Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, & 24: purl until you have 1 stitch left in row, k1 Short Row 3: k48, w&t Short Row 5: k47, w&t Short Row 7: k46, w&t Short Row 9: k45, w&t Short Row 11: k44, w&t Short Row 13: k42, w&t Short Row 15: k40, w&t Short Row 17: k38, w&t Short Row 19: k36, w&t Short Row 21: k34, w&t Short Row 23: k32, w&t Short Row 25: knit (not actually a short row!) Short Row 26: k1, p48, w&t Short Rows 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, & 49: knit Short Row 28: k1, p47, w&t Short Row 30: k1, p46, w&t Short Row 32: k1, p45, w&t Short Row 34: k1, p44, w&t Short Row 36: k1, p43, w&t Short Row 38: k1, p41, w&t Short Row 40: k1, p39, w&t Short Row 42: k1, p37, w&t Short Row 44: k1, p35, w&t Short Row 46: k1, p33, w&t Short Row 48: k1, p31, w&t Short Row 50: k1, purl until 1 stitch left in row, k1 (not actually a short row!) Complete the short rows given for your size. You have now worked both sides of your crown and are ready to seam the top. Therefore, divide your stitches evenly between two dpns and use third dpn to work three needle bind off to seam hood (you can also bind off regularly and seam, or of course use other needles besides dpns to complete it - I just like them because I don't have to worry which end I insert them through for the bind off!). Finally, using your circular needle again, pick up 86 (96; 110) evenly along face hole (in case any of you are as lazy about this stuff as me: the evenly part is important! Place stitch markers or something to keep your sections even if you need to in order to keep track!). Knit four rows around and bind off loosely. Tuck in ends and block hood, allowing both edgings (at the bottom of the hood and around the face) to curl naturally. And that, friends, is how you make this hood!
A dodecahedron in Sox, inspired by our Ultra® Alpaca Light version, Celestine. One size Size Approximately 7 1/2” across from point to point Materials 1 Ball Berroco Sox (50 grs), #1427 Lancaster 1 Set (4) double pointed knitting needles, size 2 (2.50 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE 1 St marker Tapestry needle 1 Bag Polyester stuffing Gauge 30 sts = 4”; 40 rows = 4” in St st TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE
Titicaca is a lace weight 2-ply 100% alpaca yarn. Titicaca can be knit alone in 1 or 2 threads for fine soft shawls or light clothing. It is also perfect knitted together with Supersoft, Coast, Noble and the IAM Hygge Mohair/Silk - or for that matter any other yarns. The alpaca will add softness and a light fluffiness to your knitting. Titicaca has approx. 437 yards/400 meters per 50 gram ball. Knit with one thread at needles 2.5-3 mm/US 2-3 (Approx. 25 stitches = 10 cm/4 inches). Knit with two threads at needles 3.5-4 mm/US 4-6| (Approx. 23 stitches = 10 cm/4 inches). When you use Titicaca 100% alpaca with another yarn, 1 thread will add approx. ½ a size to your knitting needles. You can use a washing machine - on a cold delicate wool program
Detta är ett tryckt mönster på svenska. Mönstret skickas endast om du samtidigt handlar minst 2 nystan garn. Vi förbehåller oss rätten att annullera ordrar som inte uppfyller detta. September Sweater Junior stickas uppifrån och ner i patentstickning. Först stickas ryggen, genom att det läggs upp maskor till nacken och stickas fram och tillbaka på stickan med ökningar i vardera sida. Därefter plockas maskor upp till axelpartierna, som stickas var för sig, för därefter sammanföras framtill när framstycket ska stickas. Under ärmhålet möts ryggstycket och framstycket för att forma bålen, som stickas runt på rundsticka. Det plockas därefter upp maskor till ärmar, som stickas runt med minskningar på en kort rundsticka. Till sist plockas maskor upp i halsringningen för att sticka halsens resårkant, vilken viks dubbel och stickas ner. September Sweater Junior är därmed monteringsfri. Gör ett stickprov innan du börjar sticka, för att hitta den stickstorlek som ger dig den rätta stickfastheten. Var uppmärksam på att det är svårt att mäta på patentstickning, då det är elastiskt – mät därför alla avstånd flera gånger. Notera, att patentstickning kommer töja sig en aning i bredden vid tvätt och användning. Därför kan du räkna med att din September Sweater Junior kommer öka i omkrets med ungefär 4-6 cm i övervidden, i förhållande till de mått som är angivna på framsidan av mönstret. Storlekar: 1-2 (2-3) 3-4 (4-5) 5-6 (6-7) 7-8 (8-10) 10-12 (12-14) år Övervidd: 70 (73) 77 (77) 80 (83) 87 (93) 93 (97) cm Längd: 36 (37) 39 (40) 41 (43) 44 (46) 49 (52) cm (mätt mitt bak inkl. nervikt halskant) Stickfasthet: 12 maskor x 38 varv i patentstickning på stickor 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm (notera, att 38 varv i patentstickning räknas som 19 rätmaskor) Stickförslag: Rundsticka 5 mm (40, 60 och/eller 80 cm), rundsticka 4,5 mm (60 eller 80 cm), rundsticka 3,5 mm (40 cm), strumpstickor 4,5 mm Material: 250 (250) 300 (300) 350 (350) 350 (400) 450 (500) g Peer Gynt från Sandnes Garn (50 g = 91 m) (en tråd) (här har färgen Natur 1002 använts) eller Double Sunday från Sandnes Garn (50 g = 108 m) (en tråd) stickas tillsammans med (75) 75 (75) 100 (100) 100 (100) g Tynn Silk Mohair från Sandnes Garn (25 g = 212 m) (en tråd) Svårighetsgrad: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ (5 av 5).
It's Frankenstein's Monster-Ball-of-Yarn! Stash buster project for using up leftover yarn that's too short to crochet or knit with.
Iris Bloom Bonnet First and foremost: yes, this yarn is divine. Simply heavenly. Gorgeous, lovely to knit, and beautifully variegated. But even if you don't have or can't find this particular fiber, you're in luck, because I have a sneaking suspicion that this super fun hat would look great in almost any worsted weight yarn. And if that's not incentive enough to make this hat, then consider this: I actually wrote up two patterns for this little beauty - one version that includes knitting in the round, and one that's made entirely on straight needles. Both begin in the same way, below. Note as of 11/24/15: This hat fits like an adult small. I have adapted the in-the-round version of the pattern for an adult large in the comments below. :) Update February 22, 2021: For some reason, the comments no longer seem to work on this post. Please email me with any questions at [email protected]. Yarn: Malabrigo Rios (100% Merino Superwash; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #416 Indiecita - one skein This stitch pattern makes me wanna say "yeah!" My kids would be so embarrassed. Needles: One set of straight needles in size US 5, one set of straight needles in size US 7, one 16" circular needle in size US 7, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns), also in size US 7 (if you're knitting it entirely on straight needles, you don't need the circulars or dpns) Notions: Tapestry needle, three stitch markers Gauge: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette So let's get started! For either version of this hat, we'll be working from the brim of the piece, and we'll begin by working back and forth rather than in the round. As such, using your straight needles in size US 5, cast on 118 stitches loosely. Then work the following rows: Edging Row 1 (wrong side): p2, * k2, p2; rep from * Edging Row 2: k2, * p2, k2 * Knit rows 1 & 2 until the piece measures just over 1" and you've just finished Edging Row 1. Then we'll knit one marker placement row, as follows: Marker Placement Row (right side): k2, (p2, k2) 4 times, place marker, (p2, k2) 20 times, p2, place marker, k2, * p2, k2 * until end of row Complete this marker placement row and switch to your straight size US 7 needles. Then, we'll begin the main pattern, which is Knit-Twist Lattice from page 149 of Barbara G. Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. To do it, you'll need the following notation: rt (right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle; next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip both stitches from left-hand needle together lt (left twist): with right-hand needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops, inserting right needle from the right) You can also find videos for these techniques below: And once you've got that down, we'll proceed like so: Row 1 and all odd rows (wrong side): purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (114 stitches) Row 4: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (110 stitches) Row 6: ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, ssk, knit until you have 2 stitches left in row, k2tog (106 stitches) Row 8: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (104 stitches) Row 10: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (102 stitches) Row 12: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (100 stitches) Row 14: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (98 stitches) Row 16: ssk, knit until you reach next marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until there are two stitches left before end of row, k2tog (96 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16. At this point, our pattern diverges - first, I will give instructions for how to proceed with this hat in the round. After that, you'll find instructions for finishing it up on straight needles. So, first, the in the round version: Now that we've finished these 16 rows, you should be about to begin a wrong side row. Instead of doing that, however, we're going to join this bad boy in the round. With that in mind, transfer work to your 16" circular needle in size US 7, place marker, and join in round. And then we'll continue like so: Row 1 and all odd rows: knit, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16, and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you come to them. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1: knit Row 2: * k10, k2tog * (88 stitches) Rows 3 & 4: knit Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: knit Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: knit You will probably want to switch to your dpns about now... Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * k6, k2tog * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * k4, k2tog * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * k2, k2tog * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * k2tog * (8 stitches) Knit rows 1 - 16, clip your yarn tail, and thread through final 8 stitches. Pull tight, thread to inside of hat, and knot. And now skip to the verrrrrry end of the post (right above the pictures), for the last bit of instructions. And while you in-the-round knitters are doing that, I'll finish up with the straight needle knitters. So if you're working on straight needles, pick up here! Last I left you, you had just finished knitting 16 rows in pattern with decreases. You're going to be continuing in much the same fashion at this point, except without the decreases. So let's proceed like so: Row 1 and all wrong side rows: purl, slipping extra markers when you come to them Row 2: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * lt, k4, rt * until you have 1 stitch left before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 4: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * lt, k2, rt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 6: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * lt, rt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker lt, rt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 8: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k4, * rt, k6 * until you're 6 stitches before second marker, rt, k4, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 10: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k3, * rt, lt, k4 * until you're 7 stitches before second marker, rt, lt, k3, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 12: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k2, * rt, k2, lt, k2 * until you reach second marker, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 14: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k1, * rt, k4, lt * until you're 1 stitch before second marker, k1, slip marker, knit until end of round Row 16: knit until you reach first marker, slip marker, k8, * lt, k6 * until you're 2 stitches before second marker, k2, slip marker, knit until end of round Knit rows 1 - 16 and then knit row 1 again, removing extra markers when you work it. Now it's time to begin the decrease portion of the hat, which goes as follows: Row 1 (right side): knit Row 2: * p2tog, p10 * (88 stitches) Row 3: knit Row 4: purl Row 5: * k9, k2tog * (80 stitches) Row 6: purl Row 7: * k8, k2tog * (72 stitches) Row 8: purl Row 9: * k7, k2tog * (64 stitches) Row 10: * p2tog, p6 * (56 stitches) Row 11: * k5, k2tog * (48 stitches) Row 12: * p2tog, p4 * (40 stitches) Row 13: * k3, k2tog * (32 stitches) Row 14: * p2tog, p2 * (24 stitches) Row 15: * k1, k2tog * (16 stitches) Row 16: * p2tog * (8 stitches) Knit decrease rows 1 - 16, and then thread final 8 stitches to a scrap of yarn to hold for later. Beginning from where you stopped doing decreases in the original pattern (and where the in-the-round knitters switched to the round), seam hat. When you reach the top, pull seaming thread through final 8 stitches and pull tight. Thread to inside of hat and knot. And now, for both in-the-round and straight needle knitters, we'll wrap up like so: Make 2 roughly 6" yarn tassels (instructions here) and attach to bottom corners of hat. Tuck in ends. Finally, if you completed this hat in the round, you may want to knot together the two stitches where you joined this hat in the round - although it should be fine structurally either way, knotting them will prevent them from pulling apart when this hat is worn. And let's face it - with a hat this cute, you're going to be wearing it a LOT.
Knit yourself a lightweight lace scarf for Spring with this free pattern
Do you love a fun, easy pattern with just a little bit of a twist? Then you’ll love the Hot Mess Headband! This adorable headband features one big cable row twisting the stitches over each other adding just the right amount of fun to the project. The Hot Mess Headband is a free knitting pattern download here on Ewe Ewe
Soft Ball Free Knitting Patterns
Berit genseren er en bestselger og kommer nå i en Mona versjon. Strikkes i Azteca fin lux som har tynne metalltråder for litt shimmer, sammen med brushed alpaca silk på pinne 7 mm. LENGER GENSER: Ønsker du lenger genser trenger du 1 ekstra nøste av Azteca fine lux i str M (og evt str S om du ønsker den en del lenger), 1 nøste brushed alpaca silk i str L (og evt M om du ønsker den en del lenger). Størrelser XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL Overvidde 94 (103) 106 (114) 118 (126) 131 cm Lengde 48 (48) 49 (51) 54 (56) 58 cm fra halskant Erme 11 (12) 12 (13) 14 (15) 15 cm til under erme Pinner Rundpinne 5 og 7 mm, 40 og 80 cm Strikkefasthet Pinne 7 mm: 13 masker = 10 cm Materiale Azteca fine lux 200 (200) 200 (300) 300 (300) 300 g Drops brushed alpaca silk 100 (100) 100 (100) 125 (125) 125 g
Eager to try new pattern ideas.
I don’t know about you, but I love to combine the pleasant with the useful. That's why today we gonna show you these knitted dishcloths.
Long Tail CO creates a neat edge but you are often left with too much tail or run out before you have enough stitches. When a pattern requires you to CO 200 stitches, how do you estimate how long a tail to leave? You don’t.
Instant love for this 3-colored balls. Looks so sophisticated. But is so easy. Talk about a versatility: Make these hand-knit balls in raffia, hemp, or natural cotton as home décor. Make them in baby yarn for easy, nearly-free baby gifts, or Use up scraps as a cool crafts for kids. I would think they would
Quick knitting tutorial for beginners about a simple way to neatly join a new ball of yarn without making knots.
Today we are going to learn how to make a knitted romper perfect for the spring or summer due to the cotton yarn used to knit it. However, as you will see, this pattern is very versatile and you can knit it with wool as well as cotton yarn, that will work for either the winter and summer. Also, this baby romper pattern is very basic and you can personalize it to your liking, adding “topitos” (as shown in this tutorial), leaving it as is, knitting sleeve flounces, combining various colors or types of stiches... the sky is the limit!
Nordic patterns every winter season appear in shops! They look beautiful and stylish! Today you're gonna see some lovely knitted sweaters1
Get 75 new ideas for using up those leftover yarn scraps you have after you finish your latest crochet or knitting project!
This light mohair top is a pleasure to wear because it is warm and very light. The entire pattern is supported with a line drawing which shows the number of stitches. Refer to the line drawing at all steps. Person in the picture wears size M/L. Also available as a knitting kit. Yarn & colorsFor this model you knit with 1 strand Mypz Chunky Kidmohair dk. We have used MYPZ Champaign for the striping. What do you need in total when you knit in 1 color? (size S/M & M/L) (L/XL) (Xl/XXL)• ± 4 balls MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk or any other hairy DK-weight yarn (+1 L/XL) ( +2 XL/XXL)That’s ± 400 meter (438y) hairy DK-weight yarn (+100M (109y) L/XL) (+ 150M (164y) XL/XXL) What do you need in total (based on the colors in the picture for size S/M, M/L (L/XL) (XL/XXL)• 2 balls MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Powder Pink • 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Neon Pink • 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Off White (+1 XL/XXL)• 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Light Pink (+1 XL/XXL) • 1 ball MYPZ chunky kidmohair dk Candy Pink • 1 ball MYPZ Champaign White (+1 L/XL & XL/XXL)Sizes: S/M, M/L, L/XL and XL/XXLS/M: length: ± 58 cm | width: ± 54 cmM/L: length: ± 58 cm | width: ± 56 cmL/XL: length: ± 60 cm | width: ± 58 cmXL/XXL: length: ± 62 cm | width: ± 60 cmTIP> Are you knitting loosely? Choose a size smaller. Knitting needlesKnitting needles with a length of ±40cm (or circular):• 8mm (UK 0 / US 11)• 10mm (UK 000 / US 15) Remaining materials• Tapestry needle• Scissors
Singlade Balls From Yarn Scraps: I've recently learned that this craft is called singlade bollar. I learned it from my Swedish grandmother who made them as toy balls when she was little around 1900. They’re made of wool, traditionally scraps left over from other projects. She told …
![How to change colors with the back join - no ends to weave in [+video]](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/de/a3/00/dea3001d3d3692c1b8fc4816b926930b.jpg)
Learn how to join yarn with the back join. A simple method for colorwork that creates a very precise transition without weaving in ends.
Dryer balls are a great addition to your natural laundry routine. They help laundry dry faster and cut down on static. The best dryer balls are made from wool as it absorbs water very well.
![Magic Knot - The easiest way to join a new balls of yarn in knitting [+video]](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b5/03/54/b50354d7b19128df0aefef90d75b59e3.jpg)
A step-by-step tutorial on using the magic knot to join a ball of yarn in a super-secure way - no weaving in required! incl. slow-mo video.
Size: Head circumference: M – 21-22.5’’ (54-57 cm); L – 23-23.5’’ (58-60+ cm). Materials: 16 inch (40 cm) US 4 (3.5 mm) circular needles or US 4 (3.5 mm) double pointed neeldes. Drops Nepal (65% wool, 35% alpaca) 82 yds/1.75 oz (75 m/50 g). I use the colors listed below, you can use any other. 1101 White- 2 ball 300 beige- 1 ball 7238 olive
Knitted Christmas ornament is timeless and beautiful. Here's the knitting tutorial on how you can knit a Christmas ball ornament yourself.
Detta är ett tryckt mönster på svenska. Mönstret skickas endast om du samtidigt handlar minst 2 nystan garn. Vi förbehåller oss rätten att annullera ordrar som inte uppfyller detta. Ankers sommartröja stickas uppifrån och ner. Oket består av partier med resårstickning följt av klassiska raglanökningar. Ärmarna stickas till sist på strumpstickor eller med Magic Loop-teknik. Ankers Sommartröja är monteringsfri. Sticka en provlapp för att hitta den rätta stickstorleken som ger dig den rätta stickfastheten. Notera att provlappen bör tvättas och blockas innan du mäter stickfastheten. Storleksguide Ankers Sommartröja bör ha en rörelsevidd (positive ease) på ca. 0-5 cm i förhållande till ditt bystmått. Storlekarna XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL motsvarar ett bystmått, mätt på din egen kropp, på 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 cm. Måtten på den färdiga tröja står på första sidan av mönstret (notera att dessa mått enbart gäller om stickfastheten hålls). Mät dig själv runt bysten (eller på det bredaste stället på din kropp), innan du börjar sticka, för att kunna bedöma vilken storlek som passar dig bäst. Om du till exempel mäter 95 cm runt bysten, bör du sticka stl M. En tröja i stl M har övervidden 96 cm och kommer i ovannämnda exempel ha en rörelsevidd (positive ease) på 1 cm. Storlekar: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL Bystvidd: 85 (91) 96 (100) 110 (120) 130 cm Längd: Hel längd: 52 (54) 56 (60) 62 (62) 64 cm Ärmlängd: 9 (9) 10 (10) 10 (10) 10 cm Stickfasthet: 20 maskor x 28 varv i slätstickning på stickor 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm efter tvätt och blockning Stickförslag: Rundsticka 4 mm (40 och 60 och 80 eller 100 cm), Rundsticka 3,5 mm (80 eller 100 cm); strumpstickor 4 mm och 3,5 mm (om det inte stickas med Magic Loop-teknik) Material: 250 (300) 300 (350-400) 400 (450) 450-500 g Line från Sandnes Garn (50 g = 110 m) Svårighetsgrad: ★ ★ (2 av 5).
Today we are going to learn how to make a knitted romper perfect for the spring or summer due to the cotton yarn used to knit it. However, as you will see, this pattern is very versatile and you can knit it with wool as well as cotton yarn, that will work for either the winter and summer. Also, this baby romper pattern is very basic and you can personalize it to your liking, adding “topitos” (as shown in this tutorial), leaving it as is, knitting sleeve flounces, combining various colors or types of stiches... the sky is the limit!
Hands down our favourite sweater to wear no matter what the occasion, and now available as a Monday Journal Knitting Pattern to make your own! The perfect intermediate knitting pattern to lovingly create your very own. The Pattern has sizes XS-XL. Techniques you will need to know (or learn as you go) are : cast on knit purl 1x1 rib cast off MATERIALS NEEDED: 12mm needles 8mm needles 2 x Touch Yarns 12 ply Brushed Mohair 100g (210m) for sizes XS-S or 3 balls for sizes M-L-XL Tapestry Needle A Monday Journal Knitting tin (not essential but we think you will like it) WHEN BUYING THIS PATTERN YOU GET A PDF PATTERN.THIS PATTERN IS STRICTLY FOR PERSONAL, NON-COMMERCIAL USE. COPY, DISTRIBUTION OR COMMERCIAL USE OF THIS PATTERN OR ANY PARTS IS NOT ALLOWED.
This basic light mohair cardigan is a pleasure to wear because it is warm and very light. The entire pattern is supported with a line drawing which shows the number of stitches. Refer to the line drawing at all steps. Person in the picture wears size S/M Kit contents (for sizes S/M, M/L) (L/XL) (XL/XXL): • Free pattern (pdf by e-mail) • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Powder Pink • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Light Pink (+1 L/XL & XL/XXL) • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Neon Yellow • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Candy Pink (+1 L/XL & XL/XXL) • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Off White • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Green-Grey • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Mint (+1 XL/XXL) • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Baby Blue (+1 XL/XXL) • 1 ball MYPZ Chunky Kidmohair dk Lilac Sizes: S/M, M/L, L/XL and XL/XXL S/M: length: ± 69 cm | width: ± 54 cm M/L: length: ± 69 cm | width: ± 56 cm L/XL: length: ± 69 cm | width: ± 58 cm XL/XXL: length: ± 69 cm | width: ± 60 cm Check our size chart for woman for worldwide sizes TIP> Are you knitting loosely? Choose a size smaller.(You can easily make this cardigan a bit longer, there is enough yarn) Knitting needles (optional + €18,-): Knitting needles with a length of ±40cm:• 8mm (UK 0 / US 11) (for the bands) • 10mm (UK 000 / US 15) Remaining materials (not included): • Tapestry needle • Stitch markers • Scissors
Types of Yarn | My guide about yarn types their uses and all the different types of yarn | Natural fibers and man made fibers
Beskrivelse Video Beskrivelse Ingrid Sweater strikkes oppefra og ned med strukturstrik. Først strikkes ryggen, der formes med vendepinde for at danne skulderhældning. Derefter samles der masker op til skuldrene, som også formes med vendepinde for at danne skulderhældning. Skuldrene samles foran til forstykket. Forstykke og ryg samles under ærmegabet og danner kroppen, som strikkes lige ned. Ærmerne strikkes rundt fra opsamlede masker i ærmehullet. Ingrid Sweater strikkes med strukturstrik, der består af tre forskellige mønstersegmenter. Mellem hver af disse strikkes et segment med hulmønster. Lav en strikkeprøve inden du går i gang for at måle strikkefastheden – bemærk, at strikkefastheden både i højden og bredden skal stemme, for at de på forsiden angivne mål kommer til at passe. Størrelsesguide Ingrid Sweater bør have et bevægelsesrum (positive ease) på ca. 20 cm i forhold til dit brystmål. Størrelserne XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL svarer til et brystmål målt på egen krop på 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm. Målene på den færdige sweater er angivet på forsiden af opskriften. Mål dig selv, inden du går i gang med at strikke, for at vurdere hvilken størrelse, der vil passe dig bedst. Hvis du fx måler 90 cm rundt om brystet (eller det bredeste sted på din krop), bør du strikke en str. S. En sweater i str. S har overvidden 112 cm og vil i nævnte eksempel give et bevægelsesrum (positive ease) på 22 cm. Størrelser: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL Sweaterens overvidde: 104 (112) 116 (120) 128 (136) 152 (160) 168 cm Længde: 56 (58) 60 (63) 65 (67) 68 (69) 70 cm Strikkefasthed: 20 masker x 30 pinde i strukturstrik på pind 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm efter vask og blokning Vejledende pinde: Rundpind 4 mm (40, 60, 80 og/eller 100 cm), rundpind 3 mm (40 cm), rundpind 3,5 mm (40, 80 og/eller 100 cm), strømpepinde 4 mm og strømpepinde 3,5 mm Materialer: 400-450 (450) 450-500 (500-550) 550 (600) 650 (700) 750 g Jensen fra Isager Yarn (50 g = 125 m) eller 300-350 (350) 350-400 (400-450) 450 (450) 500 (500-550) 550 g Pernilla fra Filcolana (50 g = 175 m) eller 500 (550) 600 (600-650) 650-700 (700-750) 800 (850-900) 900 g Double Sunday fra Sandnes Garn (50 g = 108 m) strikkes sammen med 125-150 (125-150) 150 (150-175) 175 (200) 200 (200-225) 225 g Silk Mohair fra Isager Yarn (25 g = 212 m) eller Soft Silk Mohair fra Knitting for Olive (25 g = 225 m) eller Brushed Lace fra Mohair by Canard (25 g = 210 m) Sværhedsgrad: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ (5 ud af 5) Se klassifikationen af sværhedsgrad her. Opskriften sendes som PDF-fil til din mail. Den lyse Ingrid Sweater er strikket i Jensen fra Isager i farve 6 sammen med Silk Mohair fra Isager i farve 6. Den grå Ingrid Sweater er strikket i Pelsuld 5,5/2 fra Hjelholts Uldspinderi i farven Grå [01] sammen med Silk Mohair fra Isager i farven 3S. Video Strikkeprøve og diagram: Udt-r: Udt-vr: Krydsmønster: Opstart: German Short Rows: Samle masker op til skulder: Slå om pinden: Løkkeopslag: Italiensk aflukning: Samle masker op til ærmer: Indtagninger på ærmet: Samle masker op til hals:
Black and white patterns are timeless. Add a tweed yarn into the mix and you’ve got yourself a warm winner! Size: Small (Medium, Medium/Large, Large, 1X, 2X) Shown in Medium Size Finished Measurements: Bust: 34 (37, 40, 43, 46, 49)” Gauge: 21 sts x 22 rows = 4” in fair-isle knitting using larger ndls after wet blocking. 23 sts x 28 rows = 4” in 1x1 ribbing using larger ndls after wet blocking. Materials Yarn: Universal Yarn Deluxe DK Superwash Tweed (90% superwash wool, 7% acrylic, 3% viscose; 284 yards 259 meters/100 grams): 412 Ebony (MC), 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) balls; 410 Porcelain (CC1), 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) balls Needles: US size 4 (3.5 mm): 24” circular, set of dpns US Size 7 (4.5 mm): 24” circular, set of dpns Notions: Tapestry needle; stitch markers; stitch holders
Extend life of your wardrobe with this DIY guide to mending your own clothing
Today we are going to learn how to make a knitted romper perfect for the spring or summer due to the cotton yarn used to knit it. However, as you will see, this pattern is very versatile and you can knit it with wool as well as cotton yarn, that will work for either the winter and summer. Also, this baby romper pattern is very basic and you can personalize it to your liking, adding “topitos” (as shown in this tutorial), leaving it as is, knitting sleeve flounces, combining various colors or types of stiches... the sky is the limit!
