Ажурная вышивка декоративными швами: 40 видов стежков
Посты по теме «шитье», добавленные пользователем Ольга МОЛЧАНОВА на Постилу
Автор - чего-ты-хочешь . Это цитата этого сообщения Коучинг. Стежки Коучинг. Стёжки Интересно, кто-нибудь такое делал? Любопытное нечто вот и процесс создания того, что называют коучинг И просто интересные стежки Очень красивые штуки! Узелковые …
Are you wondering how to add lace trim like in earlier times? Learn 6 different vintage ways to insert lace and improve your heirloom sewing skills!
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Learn how to long and short stitch form this tutorial and my tips!
Every Saturday I will share with you a new stitch.Today’s stitch is: Eyelet Moss Stitch.Right sideSee how simple knit, purl and slip stitches create this airy stitch pattern for a light summe…
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Hello friends today we have shared the best knitting patterns for you, with 100 … Best Beautiful Easy Knitting Patterns – Knittting Crochet – Knittting Crochet Örgü … Dear knitting lovers we have brought together the most beautiful knitting patterns provided from different sources, we shared, free knitting patterns will be shared according to the comments coming from you. I love you all, I […]
Стежок как способ формирования структуры и фактуры помимо вышивки используется в техниках стежки, stitched textiles и fabric manipulating. Основные техники,
Getting live loops where there are none requires you to pick up stitches. But what does "picking up stitches" mean? Part of it depends on WHERE you are picking up stitches. Per the below diagram, one common type is picking up along a vertical edge. This is called picking up through a "selvedge" (sometimes spelled "selvage" or "selvedge") and is the subject of this post, which is the first in a series. Horizontal pick ups are discussed in part 2, a future post will discuss combo pick-ups. * * * As you see on the below schematic of a cardigan sweater, the most common place for a vertical selvedge pick up is along the "long edges" of a cardigan sweater, in order to knit the button bands (shown in darker green, below). The different types of picking up--today's post is about picking up through the vertical (dark green) "selvedges" which are the "long" fabric edges on this schematic of a cardigan sweater. Future posts will show horizontal and combo pick-ups. FABRIC METHOD--TWO VERSIONS There are two methods of picking up stitches along a selvedge. The first, called the fabric method, involves actually picking up loops out of the fabric itself. The fabric method comes in two versions: the every-single-row version and the every-other-row version. Here are several illustrations: the first shows the every-single row version. In this method, you pick up one arm of every stitch along the selvedge. This is done by tracing up the first full column of knitting, and pulling onto your knitting needle, the innermost arm of each stitch in that column. As you might imagine, this is a fairly primitive process. There is little slack in these edge stitches, and after catching the first one or two stitches, brute force is required to squirm the loops up onto your knitting needle. There are several tricks you can use. A very slim dpn helps to park the loops upon. Another variation is called "pick up and knit" where you park only one or two stitches on the holding needle, then knit those off right away, and then pick up another one or two. Obviously, pick-up-and-knit gives the same end result as picking up the stitches first, and then knitting them all off at the same time--it's just easier, slack-wise, because knitting each stitch AS you pick it up allows for more slack at the time of pickup as only a stitch or two has to be dragged up to stretch all the way around needle. Yet, whether you use a slim dpn or the pick-up-and-knit trick, pulling every stitch right out of the side edge distorts and stresses the underlying fabric, and I would not recommend it. The second, somewhat more refined version of the fabric method involves missing a row, then picking up a loop, and repeating this process, so you get a loop on every other row. This fits with the actual structure of knitted fabric better--if you have a knit selvedge, the edge generally falls into a pattern of a longer loop paired with a shorter loop, you would (obviously) pick up the longer loop onto your needle. This is something of an improvement over the every-single-row method: with more slack, there is less stretching and stressing of the underlying fabric, less brute force. If you are running a slipped selvedge, where one edge loop spans two rows, you might want to consider ignoring the actual loops of the slipped selvedge. They are so large, the danger is that they'd get stretched out if you used their arms to pick up onto the holding needle. Instead, consider moving in to the first full column past the selvedge for your pickup. ADDED YARN METHOD The second method of picking up stitches is called the added-yarn method. In its classic incarnation, it is worked by holding a yarn behind the fabric. As illustrated below, you then reach between the arms of the first full column of knitting with your crochet hook and fish forward a loop. Each loop is parked onto a knitting needle as it is formed. Some knitters prefer to draw the added-yarn loop up into the space between the first and second full columns of knitting. If you prefer that method, you'd draw up loops by inserting the crochet hook as the two red dots at the top of the illustration indicate. The added-yarn method is rather more respectable in knitting circles than the fabric method, because this added-yarn technique does not distort the underlying fabric. Further, the line of yarn traveling up the entire length of the selvedge helps spread stress evenly along the column of knitting, which cannot be said for the fabric method. There is another added-yarn method which is much better for picking up when you are planning to knit a layer of fabric, such as a facing. Since, I have already written an entire post about my "beautiful method" I won't repeat that here, but if you go and look, I'll be waiting here when you return. WHICH IS BEST? Given the amount of stress and distortion of the underlaying faric, the every-single-row fabric method is probably one to avoid. But, for a quick item which receives no stress or tugging (edging on a neck scarf muffler) the every-other-row method works well enough. In fact, if you do this enough, you get to where you can simply knit right through the edge loop without even bothering to anchor it on a knitting needle first--a true "pick-up-and-knit" trick. Yet it is undeniable that, from a structural--and even from an aesthetic viewpoint, the added yarn method is all-around better: less stress and a prettier back-of-fabric. For the front bands on an adult's cardigan sweater, which get tugged all the time and which are always on display, the added-yarn method is really going to be better. For this high-end use, I would not use the fabric method. RATE OF PICKUP Now we come to the question of the RATE of pickup. In a nutshell, the problem is that stockinette (the most common knit fabric) is not square. A typical gauge in worsted weight yarn is 5 st/in, 7 rows/in. If you attach two such fabrics to one another via picking up stitches along a selvedge, you can see the mismatch which will occur between rows and stitches. In other words, if you pick up at a rate of 1:1 (one loop per row) you will get 7 loops where you really need only 5. The blue square and the red square are both knit in stockinette, but they are 90 degrees offset. You can see the mismatch between the row and stitch gauge where they adjoin. The gray arrow shows the direction of the knitting on each square. So, how to adjust the rate of pickup? There are many different opinions about this. I think probably the most common trick is to simply skip rows on the pickup process. So, if you were using the added yarn method, with a 5-stitch:7-row pickup ratio you would skip drawing up loops in 2 of every 7 rows. This would bring your live stitches on the needle to the exact number you need for a 5-st/inch gauge. However, IMHO, this is not the best approach. If you think about it, skipping rows makes for an uneven gappy edge, and the underlying fabric will respond by flaring or puckering. I myself would strive for the most even pick-up possible. Once I had my loops live, I would then worry about my gauge. An even pickup followed by an increase or decrease has less of a gapping problem because the foundation, at least, is even across the underlying fabric. With the every-other-row fabric method, I would be picking up only 3½ stitches per 7 rows, or more realistically--since I can't knit ½ stitches--I am picking up 7 stitches per 14 rows. This is lower than my target rate of 10 stitches picked up for every 14 rows. (basic algebra--I hated it too--says 10 st picked up for 14 rows is the exact same as 5 stitches picked up for 7 rows.) So, I must INCREASE the number of loops on my needle. In the first row (the one I am going to knit into the fabric selvedge loops) I will make this adjustment. Into every group of 7 stitches on my needle, I will add three, more-or-less evenly spaced loops via the backward loop method (or any other increase you like). The spacing isn't even, I fudged the spacing to be able to illustrate two increases With the added yarn method, I would pick up through every stitch. Obviously, I will get one loop per row, a 1:1 ratio. At this rate of pickup, I will have 7 picked-up stitches on my needle for every seven rows, but I really want to have 5. So, I will have to DECREASE the number of stitches on my needle to get to a target pick up rate of 5 loops picked up per 7 rows by getting rid of 2 stitches per group of 7. On the first row I will knit right after the loops have been picked up, I will work the decreases: k2tog's or ssk's are very handy and easy decreases to use, and I will space the two required decreases more-or-less evenly across each group of 7 stitches. If you are knitting BANDS, an even better trick (imho) is to sufficiently change the GAUGE of the knitting you are going to add on the newly-picked-up stitches, so that this new knitting is at the natural pickup gauge of 1:1. With the added-yarn method, this means you need not decrease. With the every-other row fabric method, you would double your number of stitches by k1, m1 in the first row to get to the same 1:1 ratio as added-yarn method (one stitch picked up for each row of selvedge). The band-facing is picked up via the "beautiful" method, which is an added-yarn technique. In fact, changing gauge is what I myself nearly always do, especially with front bands on a cardigan, and here is why. The gauge of knitting suitable for the body of a garment is much looser and stretchier than the gauge suitable for the front bands of a cardigan. The front bands should be knit more tightly (and it wouldn't hurt the cuff, neck or bottom bands of a garment to be knit tightly, either). If you adjust your needles down far enough, and knit tightly enough, the change in gauge makes the 1:1 pickup rate work. In my experience, this tighter gauge and a 1:1 pickup rate yield a very professional result for knitting bands on picked up stitches. See for yourself: at left is a photo of a front band-facing tightly knitted at right angles to the main fabric (showing on the purl side) on a 1:1 ratio of picked-up stitches. Although this band-facing is on the inside of the garment, it is the same idea as a band which would be seen on the outside of the garment. As you can see, the knit stitches line up straight across from the purl stitches of the main fabric, even though the knit stitches were picked up and knit at right angles. By going down several needle sizes, the band-facing was knit tight enough to make its stitch gauge identical to the row gauge of the underlying fabric. I will leave you with an aside on garter stitch which has the unique property of being "square," For this reason, it is a very good choice for modular knitting, which often features attached squares, triangles or strips at various angles to one another. In the context of picking up stitches, garter stitch is naturally picked up and knit at a 1:1 ratio without having to perform any tricks at all. However, as The Provisional Kitchener states in the comments, this is only an APPARENT 1:1 ratio, it is actually a 1:2 ratio because garter has "got as many stitches as ridges in a square - one ridge being made up of two rows. Which means you pick up one stitch every second row (which is every ridge)."(Thank you PK, for this good catch!) Good knitting --TK You have been reading TECHknitting on picking up knit stitches along a selvedge, (also spelled selvage and selvedge, go figure!)
Today I offer you a new case study! So if you ever wondered about the correlation between the number of layers (rows) on long and short stitching and the quality of blending, today's post might answer some of your questions, The task when stitching these 3 shapes was to make a transition from yellow to blue. The first example has only 2 colors: yellow and blue. The second example has 3 colors: yellow → green → blue And the third example has 7 colors: yellow → 2 mid shades of yellow-green → green → 2 mid shades of aqua green → blue. RELATED: The Ultimate Guide to Long and Short Stitching Needlepainting Color Blending Tips My opinion None of the examples is worse than another, they are just 3 different situations and each has weak sides and strong sides. 1. When you have an abrupt transition from one color to another, I think it can look very powerful and catchy. For example, when I showed my Mom all three examples the first one caught her eyes immediately and she said it was her favorite. One tip for sich a scenario would be to increase variety in the length of your stitches. You might want to have literal “spikes” there that stick out a lot and then add shorter stitches (still of various lengths) in between. 2. Well, if I'm completely honest, this is my least favorite example among these ones. But just because of the colors! I would say, that when you are ready to use only 3-4 colors, it is better to avoid transitions like these: yellow → green → blue, red → orange → yellow and so on. Basically, avoid 3 neighboring hues on the color wheel. Instead, I would suggest to either go for lights (like pink → light pink → lighter pink) or shadows (like green → dark green → very dark green). Or take very close colors and build a bridge between them (yellow → yellow-green → green) 3. When you want a really smooth transition between colors that are not neighbors on color wheel, you will need 5-7 colors. That means that each row of color will not have THAT much space (although it will depend on the shape), and that means that you don't have as much freedom in your long and short stitching. Making “spikes” like in previous examples will hardly be possible (again, depends on the shape). As a solution, you can stick to what I call “bricky” long and short stitching. It's when you have two levels of stitches – one is long, one is short – and you alternate between them. When you are limited in space, this will come in handy. Although I would recommend to try and add variety to your best ability. Well, even if you don't, the fun part is that these 7 colors lumped together in a small space are likely to “eat up” some mistakes and imperfections. So don't be scared to increase the number of your rows if your long and short stitching is “not perfect” yet! What do you think? :)
Как приталить широкие джинсы или брюки Неожиданный способ! Так можно убрать в талии 4-8 см, при условии что стежки будут мелкие, а носить будете под ремень. Очень быстро делается, за пару минут!
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Пэчворк, или как его знали наши бабушки – лоскутное шитье, сегодня вернуло свою популярность. Если вы только начинаете узнавать эту технику ближе, берите для начала самые легкие фигуры, чтобы «набить» руку.
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bijoux crochet fabrication
Interleave Quilt This tutorial is available for free... Full post: Interleave Quilt
I had been working on this translation for several years, but only just decided to make the push to finish it up. I had to put it on hold for a number of reasons, but tried to go back to it when I had the free time. Finally I've finished it so I really hope you find it useful! If you find any corrections or mistakes, please let me know and I can update the files! If you'd like to translate them into another language, I can also give you the GIMP files for editing. Please contact me if you're interested in doing this! I hope you find the translations helpful. Download/Viewing Link is here in Google Drive. Feel free to share with others, but please don't claim you translated it yourself. I'd appreciate if you could link back here when sharing! Thank you!